David Hewitt
El Dorado Hills, CA
Boat Name:
Model/Year: C22/1986
Hull No. 13153
Hailing Port: Folsom Lake Marina |
 04/09/2009 4:28 PM Pacific Time
I'm refinishing all the teak on my '86 with Cetol Marine and have a question on the sliding hatch rails: Should I apply finish to the groove where the hatch actually slides or should that remain unfinished? How about the surfaces that are bedded to the boat?
Thanks ahead,
Dave |
R. C. Luiken
Milford, DE
Boat Name: Ricochet
Model/Year: C-22 Swing Keel/1986
Hull No. 13560
Hailing Port: Milford, DE/St. Michaels, MD |
04/10/2009 8:19 AM Pacific Time
My personal preference is to apply 2 thinned out coats to the groove that the hatch slides in. I also apply 2 coats to the under sides of all other pieces of teak. The rationale is that I believe a major portion of the problems with failure of teak sealers is wicking of water into the teak from untreated areas. Moisture gets into the wood, repeated cycles of heat and cooling draw it to the surface and the result is blowing off the top coat.
Although I am not a fan of Cetol, I have friends who use it and are happy with the results. I just don't like the color. One thing you might be inerested in is that a friend buys it at his local paint store at a cost per gallon for what you pay for a quart at West Marine. |
Peter
South Daytona, Florida
Boat Name: (Working On A Name)
Model/Year: C-22, 1974
Hull No. 2679
Hailing Port: South Daytona, Florida |
04/10/2009 9:37 AM Pacific Time
RC, what do you like to use for refinishing teak? |
R. C. Luiken
Milford, DE
Boat Name: Ricochet
Model/Year: C-22 Swing Keel/1986
Hull No. 13560
Hailing Port: Milford, DE/St. Michaels, MD |
04/11/2009 3:50 AM Pacific Time
I use Bristol Varnish. It is quite expensive, but for me it works. You can apply coat after coat about 30 minutes apart without sanding. It is a 2 part system but it is very user friendly. I have been using it for three years and have only repaired small nicks.
They do have a web site which is the name dot com.
Something I didn't mention in my earlier post is that surface prep is the key to using any product. |
Lynn Buchanan
Nevada City, CA
Boat Name: SAILYNN
Model/Year: SWING 1984
Hull No. 11994
Hailing Port: SCOTTS FLAT LAKE, CA |
04/11/2009 12:17 PM Pacific Time
Once, I called the Catalina Factory and they said on earlier model boats they used Wasco Sealer (available at hardware stores) on the interior and exterior. Later they switched to Cetol on the exterior. Cetol comes in different glosses and colors and you can add your own tint to make it darker if needed. I like the Cetol and use it on all my boats for the exterior, including the interior track (just one coat). The key is to get a good clean base and keep it up yearly after that, which I guess applies to Varnish as well. There are no short cuts. If the wood trim is glued, just mask it and seal. If you can remove it from the interior/exterior, clean it, and start fresh. If it is interior trim, I was told by a professional boat maintenance person that handled my C30 in charter at Olympic Circle in San Francisco Bay to leave a small unseen area unsealed to allow the wood to breath so it wouldn't warp. Made since to me. Was also told by the same person to wipe all interior fiberglass with white vinegar. It removes mildew and prevents mildew from re-appearing. I did this before tarping our C22 for winter storage, in snow country, and come spring, no mildew. Still smelled a little like vinegar, but maybe I should have dilluted it, and the smell went away after airing the boat. Much less caustic to my lungs and the enviroment than bleach or some of the other expensive boat cleaning chemicals. |
Wes Sherrill
Concord, NC
Boat Name: Summer Breeze
Model/Year: C 22/1988 fin keel
Hull No. 14333
Hailing Port: Lake Tillery, NC |
03/02/2010 8:03 PM Pacific Time
I need to compound/wax the fiberglass and refinish the teak on the boat I bought last fall. I'm pretty sure the previous owner had not done it in several years. The fiberglass is in good condition, just chalky. The teak is in good condition, just weathered. I plan to use Cetol on the teak.
Is it best to remove the companionway trim and sliding hatch trim or can they be successfully left attached to the fiberglass? (I don't have teak handrails) Does taping the fiberglass work well keeping the teak oil off the fiberglass? Lastly, if the teak can be left attached to the boat, is it better to compound/wax first or refinish the teak first? I can just see getting the teak looking good and then the buffer throwing wax on the teak. Thanks! |
Mike Fujita
Pearl City, Hawaii
Boat Name: El Guapo
Model/Year: 75 C27
Hull No. CTYL17141174
Hailing Port: Honolulu |
08/19/2013 9:19 AM Pacific Time
I have a C27 and the hand rails along the sliding cabin hatch need help. Should I remove them and refinish them or refinish them in place. My fear is getting them as stuck on there as they are right now when I go to reattach them.
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