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Tim Wheeler
Tallahassee, Florida
Boat Name: Roma
Model/Year: Catalina 22, 1976
Hull No. 6350
Hailing Port: Tallahassee |
 11/12/2009 8:40 AM Pacific Time
Hello, Just joined this forum today. Last week I picked up a 1976 Catalina 22 (hull# 6350) and brought her home to Tallahassee, FL where I will be getting her ready for the water. She is my first boat. I have crewed years ago in the past and have worked on a couple of boats as well. I am originally from the coastal village of Brightlingsea in England where sailing abounds, so it's about time I learned how to do it!
She's a swing-keel version and is a few jobs away from getting wet. I have a new keel winch and cable to install. Two large pieces of teak to join together and shape into a rudder and a new stainless mast seat. Other than some general cleaning and scraping - that's about it.
My first question, and if anyone can guide me because I've not found much yet, is a good link for planing your own rudder and what airfoils people recommend for solid teak (it's about 2" thick). It's not going to be a kick-rudder and is currently close to 6ft in length!
The other question is how do I inspect the pivot at the bow end of the keel? Do I have to raise the boat and lower the keel, or is there another way to take a look? It seems that this is rather a lynch-pin of the whole boat and I would like to see it / replace it before I get her on the water.
Many thanks and I look forward to hearing from you,
Tim |
Bob Conway
Huber Heights, Ohio
Boat Name: Spindrift
Model/Year: C22/1979
Hull No. #8717
Hailing Port: Buck Creek, Ohio |
11/12/2009 3:34 PM Pacific Time
My suggestion may not be a good one, but I'd certainly consider selling the teak and buying a rudder from Catalina Direct. |
paul osborne
Lima NY
Boat Name: Emy Lyn II
Model/Year: 1984
Hull No.
Hailing Port: Rochester |
11/12/2009 4:50 PM Pacific Time
I have made a few rudders for other boats, not a hard job or is it rocket science.
I'm sure you can find an other 22 in your area to take a few measurements from. if not get back to me and I will measure mine for you.
paul |
Don Bollmeier
Marissa, IL
Boat Name: "Sail's Call"
Model/Year: 1982 C25
Hull No. 2195
Hailing Port: Boulder Yacht Club |
11/13/2009 4:00 AM Pacific Time
Hello Tim
I own a 1982 25 Catalina (SailsCall at Lighthouse Landing on Ky Lake) which I have upgraded.
I have never resonded to questions, however; I felt it might be helpful in order for you to avoid a potential at sea problem.
Each spring I always chip away the bit of fiberglas around the bolts heads which anchor the swing keel fittings to the hull.
I check the torque of each of the 4 bolts acording to Catalina specifications.
This year one of the bolts refused to torque to specs. First ,I thought it was a broken bolt. No such luck. I finally determined it was a broken threaded weldment which is fiberglased in the keel at the time of manufacture.
In my opinion the design is such that the way the weldment is fabricated the actual weld itself a weak point. The weldment will break before you can twist off the bolt. I guess one could say it held for 25 years, not to bad in the scope of things, but if not attended to a disaster waiting to happen. I expect someone checked torque based upon bolt size, not Catalina specs.
Anyway fearing a sudden mishap with the Admiral aboard was out of the question.
If your Admiral is expected to be aboard then I highly recommend you check the torque and if it does not come up to specs replace the weldment, replace all whichwelds where the torques don't come up to specs. Use a torque wrench. don't guess.
Make sure you add a bit of fiberlglas on the bolt heads when done. It helps to see if the bolts have turned the next season.
By the way if you do have to replace one of the weldments, it is not as hard a job as it looks. Especially if you know a bit about fiberglas. Just follow the instructions which are included when you receive the Catalina Direct Parts. I belive it took me about 5 manhours to complete the operation for one weldment.
At my age I work slow in 100 degree weather.
I located the approximate position of the plate from inside the cabin, then I used a router bit on a drill to remove the fiberglass from on top of the plate. ( The plate is pretty close to the inside of the hull. Once you remove the fiberglass you can go under the hull and use a punch to pop the whole unit into the cabin. Your insert hole should allow you to perfectly align the new weldment however, I bolted the trunion to the weldment and to the other bolts to make sure it was alligned when refiberglased from the top. |
R. C. Luiken
Milford, DE
Boat Name: Ricochet
Model/Year: C-22 Swing Keel/1986
Hull No. 13560
Hailing Port: Milford, DE/St. Michaels, MD |
11/13/2009 4:50 AM Pacific Time
Tim, I agree with Bob. Teak is great, but I helped a friend redo the teak deck on his 5 year old boat. I was shocked to see how much sun, water dirt and wear had eroded from the surface. Constant immersion in water will only hasten this process.
There is no way to inspect the keel pivot without at least lowering the keel from the boat. It does not have to be lowered very much. Consider removing one bolt at a time and replacing it with about a 6" piece of threaded rod. Insert the rod finger tight and run the nut up to the keel hanger. When you have done all 4 then just back off each of the nuts a few turns at a time. When the entire hanger is out of its recess, support the keel, remove the threaded rod and you can then inspect and accomplish repairs as needed. By the way this method can also be used to fully remove the keel if you used longer pieces of threaded rod.
I have had no problem with the weldment welding. I have broken off a bolt in it. Interestingly enough it occured while trying to remove the bolt. It is easier to replace the weldment than to try to remove the stub inside the weldment. Once I got the part it was about a 2 hour very dusty job.
Welcome to the list and good luck with "Roma" |
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