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Mike Harris
San Diego, CA
Boat Name: Grace
Model/Year: 1975
Hull No. CTYH52930775
Hailing Port: San Diego |
 04/05/2004 3:34 PM Pacific Time
Hi all:
My Catalina 22 is not quite a wreck, but let's just say when I bought it, anyone could see much work would be needed. Previous owners removed the 12-v batteries, cut wiring, pulled out interior lights, etc.
Since I only use the boat for day sailing, I'm thinking of just using portable nav lights rather than go to the expense of rewiring, buying a new 12-volt battery and battery box, etc. I'm using Coleman battery-powered lights for Inside the cabin at night when I'm on board, and I use a handheld radio when out.
The model year is 1975. Any comments or experience with just clip-on nav lights?
Thanks,
Mike Harris
San Diego |
Lance Anderson
Kenai, Alaska
Boat Name:
Model/Year: 1973
Hull No. 2367
Hailing Port: Kenai, Alaska |
04/06/2004 2:41 AM Pacific Time
I was having the same thought The package of those lights stated they were legal for a boat to 7 meters. That is 22.965879416666666 feet. Seems like they would get you buy. I would like to here others input here. |
Dick King
Melbourne, FL
Boat Name: Twilight Zone
Model/Year: Sport/2005
Hull No. 15546
Hailing Port: Melbourne, FL |
04/06/2004 6:14 AM Pacific Time
The problem with most clamp on kits, is that they are for boats under power. The stern light is a 360 degree white light. That in combination with the red/green bow light signals a Power Driven vessel less than 7 meters going less than 7 Kts. If you are sailing, this is the wrong configuration.
For details, see http://www.auxetrain.org/lights2.html |
Don
Yorktown, VA
Boat Name: Skweedle
Model/Year: '75 Catalina 22 Swing Keel
Hull No. 4821
Hailing Port: Yorktown |
12/29/2004 12:22 PM Pacific Time
I'm going through the same quandry. Dick, no offence, but a 360 degree light could easily be modifed to only be viewable astern. With the exception of large, built-in 12V applicances like autopilots, water makers, and refrigeration, I'm having difficulty justifying the expense and hastle of conventionally wiring my boat. I really think I'm going to go with flashlight battery powered everything for my spring launch.
Don Walker
#4861 |
Dick King
Melbourne, FL
Boat Name: Twilight Zone
Model/Year: Sport/2005
Hull No. 15546
Hailing Port: Melbourne, FL |
12/30/2004 6:35 AM Pacific Time
Hi Don- I thought the rewiring was a hassle, also. However, now that it is done, I wonder why I wailted so long. It is really great to be able to flip a switdh and know my running lights are working, I can plug in my search light if I need it and my knotmeter and log have come out of retirement.
Believe me, it was money and time well spent. |
Chip Ford
Marblehead, MA
Boat Name: Chip Ahoy
Model/Year: 1974-Swing Keel
Hull No. CTY032820374
Hailing Port: Marblehead, Mass. |
12/31/2004 3:58 AM Pacific Time
I'm with Dick 100 percent, even though when I started out I knew very little about electrical wiring.
The first spring I had Chip Ahoy (2003) and began my restoration project, one of the very first things I did was almost-conpletely rewire the boat: the only origninal wiring that remained was from the deck-plug back to beneath the aft settee seat; forward to the bow running light; aft to the stern light, and the battery cables and ignition switch wires coming from my electric-start outboard.
I replaced everything else, and added a mast wiring harness, anchor light, steaming/deck light combo, new deck plug (for the additional fifth mast wire up to the anchor light -- and because the old deck plug needed replacement!). I installed a new battery and switch panel, new pulpit-mounted running light, a bilge pump and on/off switch along with a float switch, a voltmeter, two buss panels, a "cigarette lighter" plug in the cockpit, and a VHF radio and mast antenna. It was a decent-size project that took about a week -- two weeks if you count the *two* bad Seadog deck plugs that kept shorting out until I finally replaced them with an AquaSignal.
I did all this before I got into building the Chip Ahoy restoration "step-by-step" website or got a handy digital camera, so regretably those details are somewhat sketchy.
Last spring I added a second battery and a battery switch, then bought a tiller-pilot and wired it to the busses. I wired the VHF radio's DSC (distress) connection to my handheld GPS hardwire plug in the cockpit. I also added a small solar panel and controller to keep the batteries topped off while hanging on my mooring or while under sail during my cruise up the coast of Maine last summer. You can see the step-by-step of those projects at the website, below.
When you look at the rewiring project ahead, it seems insurmountable. Then you just methodically take it step-by-step. I collected what C22 wiring diagrams I could find, then from them drew out little diagrams of my own as I plodded along. My one regret is that I didn't plan in "neat" -- but found that almost impossible as I worked. I could have done "neater," but at least I know where everything goes, how it works, where it is -- and I labeled all the inline fuse-holders so that when a fuse should blow I can quickly find and replace it.
The project is done, behind me -- and I'm gratified everytime I need to use something electrical (and thrilled when it works!): Run into fog, reach down and turn on the running lights; need the deck light, throw a switch. And of course, the bilge pump is always on, always.
Chip Ford --
Marblehead, Mass.
1974 Catalina 22 Swing Keel #3282 - "Chip Ahoy"
Chip Ahoy website: www.chipford.com
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Chip Ford
Marblehead, MA
Boat Name: Chip Ahoy
Model/Year: 1974-Swing Keel
Hull No. CTY032820374
Hailing Port: Marblehead, Mass. |
12/31/2004 4:09 AM Pacific Time
Skip Meisch has a great section on his "Slow Flight" website that provides not only C22 wiring diagrams but a lot of other useful C22-specific electrical information:
http://slowflight.net/upgrades/toc-elec.html
Chip Ford --
Marblehead, Mass.
1974 Catalina 22 Swing Keel #3282 - "Chip Ahoy"
Chip Ahoy website: www.chipford.com
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Al Gearing
Burleson, Texas
Boat Name: Torch of Freedom
Model/Year: C-22 '76
Hull No. 6448
Hailing Port: Arlington YC |
12/31/2004 8:45 AM Pacific Time
Chip, I have read a lot of your inputs and admired how much you put into a C-22, the one above seems like a summary that really takes a C-22 to a new level of cruiser. My old cold-moulded plywood 35' boat with 8' beam, was rigged for racing, even the modestly long 125 mile Ensenada Race a couple of times, but deck plugs and bilge pumps were never thought of. We did have two batteries, one a 8D, the other for starting the engine, which had a 55 amp alternator. My hat is off to you for all your info, I'm looking for money to finish painting the deck since the hardware is all off for fixing the leaks, then will rig for racing, less creature comforts needed, fair the keel to a tear-drop shape. Just finished rebuilding an old rudder, sold the kick up one, trying to decide whether to replace the old style spreader brackets. Have a crack in the overhead forward, about a foot long from the hatch outward, trying to decide if it needs more than just epoxing it back up, deck seems solid enough. Any thoughts? Will paint the bottom with epoxy with WEST barrier filler, I trailer store the boat, so don't need bottom oblative paint. Will probably run all the halyards, reefing lines, and outhaul to the cockpit, thinking of making a bridge for all the sheet stoppers, over the hatchway, I worry about hitting my head on it.
One thing that Jim Jenkins did that I copied, and will do again, is extending the step over the battery access to cover all the way forward to the edge of the port side seat. That extra standing space is great, at least for racing. Jim used aluminum plate, I used wood with stiffeners below, replacing the plywood one. It raises the surface above the inset but not much more weight.
This is suppose to be about electrical, I will used dry cells to be compliant, we're not out at night on lakes racing.
For what it's worth, Al Ge |
Erv Zimmerman
Anchor Bay Shores, Michigan
Boat Name: Adventuring
Model/Year: 1973
Hull No. 1787
Hailing Port: Anchor Bay, Lake St. Clair |
01/01/2005 9:29 AM Pacific Time
Electrical diagrams are also available from the fleet 130 website at: http://www.fleet130.org/technotes/electrical/
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David J. Pierce
Sunset, Louisiana
Boat Name: Little Miracles
Model/Year: 1985
Hull No. 12822
Hailing Port: Cypermort Point, Louisiana |
01/02/2005 5:31 PM Pacific Time
DC wiring is very easy. As an Electrical Engineer I can tell you one simple rule. It takes tow wires to light a light bulb.
If you remember that one rule, you can fix most DC electrical problems. |
Sonny Harrison
Jonesville, La.
Boat Name:
Model/Year: 22'/1983
Hull No.
Hailing Port: Black River Lake |
01/03/2005 4:38 AM Pacific Time
David,
As an Electrical Engineer also, I have the same problem with spelling the word 2 .......just joking......where do you sail in So. Louisiana? I'm on Black River lake by Jonesville. .....have fun!!!
[email protected] |
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