Boat Name:
Model/Year:
Hull No.
Hailing Port: |
 04/10/2004 10:27 AM Pacific Time
I ordered a new jam cleat and CD sent me the the jam cleat with a drill and awl to thread the drill hole. The cleat had been replaced twice before as evidenced by prior screw nubs. When I tried to drill new holes the drill walked and made it impossible to make a new hle even after tapping a starter hole. Before I drill any more I want to know how you all have done this same replacement. Thanks in advance! |
Dick King
Melbourne, FL
Boat Name: Twilight Zone
Model/Year: Sport/2005
Hull No. 15546
Hailing Port: Melbourne, FL |
04/10/2004 2:04 PM Pacific Time
Hi Bob- Here is an alternative for you to consider. Attach the tiller to the rudder head with a hex head bolt and a wing nut. When you are leaving the boat or want to beach it, remove the tiller, and pull the rudder off the boat and put it on the cockpit seat or sole. Forget the jam cleat on the rudder head. Mine broke and I never bothered to replace it. |
Boat Name:
Model/Year:
Hull No.
Hailing Port: |
04/17/2004 8:51 AM Pacific Time
Thanks Dick for the alternative. Noone else has chimmed in on this topic, so I guess none bothers with the jam cleat anyhow but I ordered it and have it so why not try to install it. Maybe I'll take it to a machine shop and let them install the little bugger. |
PHILIP & SHARON MERLIER
FELLSMERE, FLORIDA
Boat Name: SWIZZLE STICK
Model/Year: 1990 C22
Hull No.
Hailing Port: FELLSMERE, FLORIDA |
04/17/2004 11:12 PM Pacific Time
Has anyone figured out how to prevent the cracks that always eventually develop in the aluminum plates of the kick up rudder head near the lower pintle? I am about to buy my third or fourth rudder head in a 14 year period despite my efforts to prevent the problem from recurring. The is a rather expensive past time considering they cost $300+ a shot. My lastest efforts to insulate the stainless bolts from the aluminum casting and plates improved things significantly but did not eliminate the problem.
Thanks, Philip |
Michael Smalter
Webster, NY
Boat Name: Marrakesh
Model/Year: 1986
Hull No. 13645
Hailing Port: Rochester, NY |
04/18/2004 4:21 AM Pacific Time
I have a 1986 and have no cracks in the rudder head. How much force do you need to use on the tiller to go straight when you are sailing at the upper end of your wind range? If you have to use both hands, maybe the helm isn't balanced properly, and the excessive force on tiller is fatiguing the rudder components.
Another possibility is salt water. I've heard that aluminum doesn't like salt water. Maybe a combination of stress and galvonic corrosion is occurring. |
david martin
hutchinson island fl
Boat Name: barefoot gourmet
Model/Year: cat 22 1977
Hull No. 7942 (?)
Hailing Port: Hutchinsom Island Fl |
04/19/2004 9:45 AM Pacific Time
I have a 1977 and also do not have any cracks on original rudder head and Ithe boat has always been used in salt water |
Boat Name:
Model/Year:
Hull No.
Hailing Port: |
06/04/2004 5:41 AM Pacific Time
Phillip & Sharon,
I understand you do a lot of sailing with your boat. More sailing than most and are very good at it. I was thinking that since you have replaced your rudder head wear tear and deteriation could be a factor. That you may have sanded the rudder too much leaving a wider than expected gap between the head and the rudder body which would put more stress on the tiller casing. Instead of thghtening the rudder through bolt nuts to tight use an ss washer next to the rudder to build it up then tighten, this would take pressure off the casing and put it back where it should be. Hope this helps! |
