Boat Name:
Model/Year:
Hull No.
Hailing Port: |
 04/20/2004 10:41 AM Pacific Time
Some time back (either here or on another Catalina 22 forum) someone posted a picture of their cabin/galley table secured with quick release ball lock type pins. I would like to ask some questions of the guy who posted the pic if he is out there. I believe I also saw, at a later date, another post from the same guy where he had posted pictures of his forward shrouds where he used the same pins to secure the shrouds when stepping his mast. If anyone can point me to this fellow I would appreciate it.
Thanks,
Mike
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Bob Vick
Caldwell, TX
Boat Name: Over Keel
Model/Year: <1985
Hull No. 13059
Hailing Port: Lake Somerville |
05/02/2004 7:46 AM Pacific Time
I bought the cam table locks from CD & it does keep the table inplace, I stand on it to adjust the vang, down haul, & pole.
I bought quick release pins from CD also for the foward Shrouds, (the tab kind without the spring ball locks.)
Hope this helps, _B |
Russ Milham
Lake Forest Park, WA
Boat Name: Griot
Model/Year: C-22 1981
Hull No. CTYH0492M811
Hailing Port: Kenmore Air Harbor |
05/03/2004 5:36 PM Pacific Time
You might be thinking of me (not sure). I dropped a pic of my ball-lock cabin table mod at the end of the page of pictures relating to my Raymarine autopilot install. Just got back from an overnight cruise and both worked great.
http://www.rilinterface.com/leanto/tillerpilot/ |
Boat Name:
Model/Year:
Hull No.
Hailing Port: |
05/04/2004 6:57 AM Pacific Time
Does anyone have a picture of the stock leg that holds up the end of the table not connected to the cabin edge? I am sure that mine is not stock and I am curious what the stock unit looks like.
Thanks
Bob |
Louis
Mobile, AL.
Boat Name: Moon-Raine
Model/Year: 1989
Hull No.
Hailing Port: Mobile, Al. |
02/06/2006 5:54 PM Pacific Time
Bob, you can look at the top of the page and to the right, click on "store", then scroll to the catalina 22 and after clicking on that page, click on "Cabin". On that page, there is a picture of what your looking for ($27.50) for the leg, and 17.95 for the wall supports. |
Louis
Mobile, AL.
Boat Name: Moon-Raine
Model/Year: 1989
Hull No.
Hailing Port: Mobile, Al. |
02/06/2006 5:59 PM Pacific Time
Bob, there is also the undertable latch assembly sold by CD at the store under the heading "cabin" Interior, second page. |
Blaine King
Collierville, Tennessee
Boat Name: Moon Glow
Model/Year: C-22 SWING KEEL / 1973
Hull No. 2157
Hailing Port: Paris & Pickwick Landing |
02/24/2006 5:51 PM Pacific Time
This may be a "duh-daddy" question.. But has anyone drilled the holes for the pin with the table on? It would seem that the alignment would be exact. My concerns are" the drill bit may walk around making the effort difficult with unpredictable results -and- that the force of the drill going through the last mounting plate and fiberglass could create some more unpredictable reults.
Yes, I am trying to avoid removing all of the hardware and using a drill press.. |
Michael Smalter
Webster, NY
Boat Name: Marrakesh
Model/Year: 1986
Hull No. 13645
Hailing Port: Rochester, NY |
02/24/2006 6:27 PM Pacific Time
Blain, I drilled some holes in the stainless mast step, and I expect the technique I used would work for the hole you want to drill in the table latch.
Use a brand new bullet tip drill bit (I used Black and Decker) with a cordless drill. A bullet tip bit has a miniature tip that starts well and keeps the hole from wandering. I used plenty of pressure on the drill, and the stainless came out in a continuous curl. I think the low speed of the cordless drill prevented excess heat or work hardening of the stainless. |
Al Gearing
Burleson, Texas
Boat Name: Torch of Freedom
Model/Year: C-22 '76
Hull No. 6448
Hailing Port: Arlington YC |
02/25/2006 6:19 AM Pacific Time
Mike you must be strong to be able to do that by hand, but that is the technique for drilling SS. Keep the pressure on and don't let up. SS will work harden very easily, such as when a chip breaks off, then the drill will have to bite into a harden bit of metal. Keeping the pressure on in a drill press is easier, but as Mike has found it can be done, and I think he is right that the slow speed allowed him to do it.
Good luck, Al Ge |
Boat Name:
Model/Year:
Hull No.
Hailing Port: |
02/26/2006 7:14 AM Pacific Time
Hello Mike,
The picture and article might be referring to is at:
http://catalina22fleet20.home.comcast.net/techtips/table.htm
What would you like to know about the installation and the use of the pins for the forestay and forward shrouds?
Dale Mack
Crocus, C22, #8244
www.c22pdx.net |
Boat Name:
Model/Year:
Hull No.
Hailing Port: |
02/26/2006 7:24 AM Pacific Time
Hello Mike,
Here is the article on using the pins for rigging.
http://catalina22fleet20.home.comcast.net/news/rpts/200101/200101.htm#TraileringQuickReleaseHardware
Dale Mack
www.c22pdx.org |
Greg Baker
Charlotte, NC
Boat Name: Sea Sharp Minor
Model/Year: Catalina 22 - 1984 - Swing Keel
Hull No. 11823
Hailing Port: Lake Norman Sailing Club |
02/27/2006 7:55 AM Pacific Time
There is a quick and dirty way to improve the grip of the wall brackets for the cabin table.
The L-brackets attached to the table are supposed to be overformed to slightly less than 90 degrees so when the table is level and the support leg deployed, protrusions stamped in the L-brackets engage holes in the wall brackets, thus prevent the L-bracket from lifting. But what usually happens is someone lifts the free end of the table and slightly bends the L-brackets. Now the protrusions no longer fit snugly into the hole in the wall bracket and the L-bracket can easily pop out.
I restored mine by simply reforming the brackets to about 85 degrees. Now as the free end of the table is lifted just enough to deploy the leg, the wall brackets are tightly gripped.
I never let anyone else put up or take down the table and I am careful no not lift the free end any further than necessary to deploy or collapse the leg.
I know this is not nearly as good as the pins but mine has worked great now for several years after the above fix.
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Boat Name:
Model/Year:
Hull No.
Hailing Port: |
02/27/2006 12:32 PM Pacific Time
My table brackets used to work this way, but I didn't know it was designed this way. They stopped working and now I know why! I will be bending the brackets back now that I know.
Thanks for that tidbit!
Butchie
1986 c22
Sandy Bottoms
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Greg Phillips
Tennille,Ga
Boat Name:
Model/Year: 1981 C22
Hull No. 10161
Hailing Port: Lake Sinclair, Milledegville, Ga |
02/28/2006 7:43 AM Pacific Time
I secured my table with a small piece of wood that runs the entire width of the table. The wood placed on the top of the table next to the side of the boat, right under the shelf. I keep the wood in place with velcro. I have had it like this for the past four years. It has yet to fail. I also stand on it periodically.
Greg
10162 |
Blaine King
Collierville, Tennessee
Boat Name: Moon Glow
Model/Year: C-22 SWING KEEL / 1973
Hull No. 2157
Hailing Port: Paris & Pickwick Landing |
02/28/2006 8:30 PM Pacific Time
Greg, thanx for the "quick & dirty"! |
Jon Golliher
Anderson, In
Boat Name: Happy Daze
Model/Year: Catalina 22 1985
Hull No. 12712
Hailing Port: Muncie, in |
02/28/2008 8:58 PM Pacific Time
That sounds like a great idea! Approximately what size is it?
Fair winds,
Jon |
Geoff Endris
Carmel, IN
Boat Name: Repose
Model/Year: 1989
Hull No. 14949
Hailing Port: Indianapolis, IN |
02/29/2008 3:24 PM Pacific Time
Catalina Direct has some latches that work really well. Takes about 20 minutes to install. |
Jon Golliher
Anderson, In
Boat Name: Happy Daze
Model/Year: Catalina 22 1985
Hull No. 12712
Hailing Port: Muncie, in |
02/29/2008 8:42 PM Pacific Time
Yeah, I know of the various ways to secure the table from below and so far I've never needed anything because my brackets are kept "overbent" as mentioned on another post here.
I just thought Greg had a great idea "thinking outside the box". I like the idea of not having to climb under the table to unlatch anything.
Fair winds,
Jon |
