Standing Rigging / Spars

Catalina Direct Discussion Topics / Catalina 22 Discussion Area / Standing Rigging / Spars / Mast Raising and Lowering
 
 
Author Mast Raising and Lowering
Robert Leach


Boat Name:

Model/Year:

Hull No.

Hailing Port:
12/14/2004 8:36 AM Pacific Time

Hi Folks!

Guess what? I'm moving. I am taking a pastorate in Northern Indiana, on Lake Michigan. I will be located in the Indiana Riveria (Ogden Dunes)! Unfortuantely there is not a harbor immediate that can accomodate Time Out. But there is a public harbor which has several bridges.

I'm wondering if anybody is in the situation were they must lower their mast while underway in order to get out into open waters? If so, what is your system. The bridges look like they are 20' off the water, which isn't too bad.

I'm thinking I just need a moveable forestay with purchase system and perhaps a support system for the forestay so I can get more leverage. I need something slick! I know this is the most creative group of sailors around.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

Merry Christmas
Ken Palmer
Franklin, TN.

Boat Name: "Last Penny"

Model/Year: 1981

Hull No. 10475

Hailing Port: PPYC
12/14/2004 10:44 AM Pacific Time

Robert,
A gin pole would do the job for you, I made one to raise and lower my mast using a 1 1/4" X 6' piece of Aluminum tubing, I had a piece of alum strap bent and welded to one end drilled a 1/4" hole through the mast at the bottom to attach it to the mast. At the other end I pluged the tubing with a piece of 1/2" alum ground to fit inside the tubing drilled and taped four holes #10 screws to attached, a 1/4" eyebolt was used bolted to the center of the plug. I use the boom vang to raise and lower the mast. I attach the jib halyard to the gin pole. I first tried using side stabilizer's but found them not very helpfull, standing at the mast step one can stabilize the mast either by holding the gin pole or mast.
Nancy Varvil
Fayetteville, Arkansas

Boat Name: Cha-Ching

Model/Year: 1981

Hull No. 10448

Hailing Port: Beaver Lake, Arkansas
12/14/2004 6:34 PM Pacific Time

Ken, are you raising the mast by yourself? Our friend made us a nice gin pole and the raisable support for the mast to fit in the gudgeons. We never thought about the possibility that the mast could be raised by just one person.
Ken Palmer
Franklin, TN.

Boat Name: "Last Penny"

Model/Year: 1981

Hull No. 10475

Hailing Port: PPYC
12/14/2004 8:40 PM Pacific Time

yes I do it alone
Artur Piotrowski
Burlington, Ct

Boat Name: Spirit

Model/Year: C22 1986

Hull No. 13485

Hailing Port: Bantam, Ct
12/15/2004 6:13 AM Pacific Time

Ken, is there any place online where you have or could post some pictures of your system?
Ken Palmer
Franklin, TN.

Boat Name: "Last Penny"

Model/Year: 1981

Hull No. 10475

Hailing Port: PPYC
12/15/2004 7:08 AM Pacific Time

Art,
I will get with the keeper of our fleet web site and have it posted there soon
Robert Leach


Boat Name:

Model/Year:

Hull No.

Hailing Port:
12/16/2004 6:04 AM Pacific Time

Ken

Thanks for the input. How long is the gin pole? Is the mast stable laterally when raising and lowering. I ask because I will have to do this while motoring out to Lake Michigan. So I need a stable, one man solution, so I can lower the stick go under a bridge, and raise it back up.

So another consideration is a quick release and tensioning system for the forward shrouds, right?

Thanks everybody!

Robert
Robert Leach


Boat Name:

Model/Year:

Hull No.

Hailing Port:
12/16/2004 6:07 AM Pacific Time

Ken

Oh . .. I see the size 6' pole. I get that you attach the j halyard to the end of the pole. Do you also attach the vang to the bow and the pole? What does the forestay do, dangle?

Also, since I am underway, I would like to be able to leave the boom on and perhaps even the main. Humm, that might be complicated.

Thanks for helping me think through this.

Robert
Al Gearing
Burleson, Texas

Boat Name: Torch of Freedom

Model/Year: C-22 '76

Hull No. 6448

Hailing Port: Arlington YC
12/16/2004 7:11 AM Pacific Time

Folks, it seems to me that you don't have to lower the mast all the way for ducking under a bridge, which allows some leeway. If this has to be done going out and back in, it has to be simple. First, the mast could be stowed half way down from the trailer to the bridge. I would think that a semi-permanent gin pole/stablizer may be an answer. First of course is the quick disconnect forestay and lower forwards. Then I think I would try twin poles from the upper shroud chain plates, for the stability factor. Size them to lay on the deck and join with a tube/bar/fairlead for the fore stay to attach to. The boom fang or another permanent block arrangement could stay in place. If you use a winch for snubbing and cranking back up, you might get away with a simple one to one purchase, after all if it doesn't have to go all the way down, only 45 degrees or so, it is not that heavy to lift from there. I straddle the mast to raise and lower it from the trailer position by myself, with little trouble other than keeping the turn buckles straight, which you will have to make sure they stay straight to keep from bending.
For what it's worth, just some thoughts.
Al Ge
Paul Moore
Doylestown, PA

Boat Name:

Model/Year:

Hull No.

Hailing Port:
12/16/2004 7:11 PM Pacific Time

I have found that the boom works as a gin pole. I fabricated a "Y" brace with a 1/2"x8" bolt that slides into the aft end of the boon, into the slot for the boltrope.
The other side of the "Y" has a hole that I pin through a hole in the bottom of the mast.
I then use the vang, reduced to 3:1 purchase, to raise and lower the mast.
As for the forward lower stays I use two pieces of 6mm line with a loop on one end, I remove the forward stays and reattach to the loops in the lines, then I pass the free end of these lines through the padeye for the forward stays, and tie off with a stop knot. This stablizes the mast on the way down, preventing it from swaying too far to one side or the other.
When trailering I generally leave all of this connected with the boom lashed to the forward deck. I can generally launch or de-rig in 45 - 60 minutes by myself.
Artur Piotrowski
Burlington, Ct

Boat Name: Spirit

Model/Year: C22 1986

Hull No. 13485

Hailing Port: Bantam, Ct
03/06/2006 7:47 PM Pacific Time

Hello everyone. I need some comments, both, positive and negative on my mast raising, single hand project. I want to do it with an electiric winch attached to my boat trailer. I found an electric boat trailer winch at a local Walmart for $40. Max load is 2000lbs and it comes with a wired control. My plan is to purchase a square tube at a local scrap metal place, @ 10' long and insert it into my boat trailer, bow support tube. Winch will be installed on the trailer frame. Wire from the winch will go through a wire block installed on the frame and then through another block installed on the upper end of the long square tube. End of the winch wire will be connected to the forestay (roller furler).
Before raising the mast I will lift it on the mast support pole from CD. The idea is to stay in the cockpit, turn the winch on and support/stabilize the mast from behind while it gets up.
I estimate the total cost to be around $100 plus any unforeseen demages to the rigging if things go wrong. Does it make sense to you? Will it work?
Let me know what you think. Thanks.

"Spirit" #13485
---Turk ---
Canfield, Ohio

Boat Name: Miss Kitty

Model/Year: 1974 C22

Hull No. 3520

Hailing Port: Mosquito Lake, N.E. Ohio
03/07/2006 3:31 AM Pacific Time

Hi

The system you are describing is similar to the mast raising system on a catalina 250 trailrite trailer. What is missing are the "baby stays" (7 " temp wire stays on both sides of mast). Here is a link to the mast raise system I built that is "very" stable and uses your boom vang, and can be raised and lowered from the cockpit. Borrowed from many designs found on the net. Break down telescopic poles. All aluminum except for Stainless steel at swivel.

www.elmhurstprop.com/mastraise
Al Gearing
Burleson, Texas

Boat Name: Torch of Freedom

Model/Year: C-22 '76

Hull No. 6448

Hailing Port: Arlington YC
03/07/2006 5:26 AM Pacific Time

Turk, I looked at your mast raising pictures and am impressed with your inginuity, albeit I think it is over kill. At 80 I can still straddle the mast standing on the closed hatch, when it is on a 6 ft. mast support at the transom, and simply raise it up. The big problem to check for is the aft and upper turnbuckles set so they will not bind and bend, and that the shrouds don't get caught on something, for that I ask for people to stand by if they want to help. But I have raised masts at home alone, I just have to get everything set to clear.
I did notice your forward hatch, is that stock? I like that.
Al Ge
Sean Madian
Portland, OR

Boat Name: Time Out

Model/Year: 1973

Hull No. CL 3839 FX

Hailing Port: Portland
03/07/2006 5:50 AM Pacific Time

I just attended a mast rasising clinic hosted by Dale Mack of Fleet 20 (Portland, OR). He has a slick gin pole w/total cost at probably $50. I can send pics if you like or he may respond as I've seen him on the forums. In short this is what he does:

1. Gin pole: a 2x4 with a cut out at one end that fits over the mast base, a ratched to hold it to the mast and a hook and pulley at one end. The 2x4 is long enough to reach from the mast to approximately the cleats on the bow. Mounted approx. 2' from the mast is a $20 hand-cranked winch.
2. Mini-stays: to prevent the mast from moving laterally, Dale attaches two mini stays that are hooked to the turnbuckles and then using a halyard the other ends are hoisted nearly to the mid-point of the mast. This brings the turnbuckles up which helps avoid twisting. He also suggests using a bungee cord rigged in front of the mast: one for the uppers and one for the rear lowers.
3. Jib Halyard: the jib halyard is connected to tackle on the front of the gin pole.
4. Hauling line: a line is run from the bow cleats through a block on the gin pole and back to the winch.

With this rig in place I have watched Dale crank the mast (partially raised in a home built mast support) to virtually any angle. He can crank it up or down at will, stop to adjust shrouds, etc. It is truly a lovely piece of engineering and very simple to build.
Bob Conway
Huber Heights, Ohio

Boat Name: Spindrift

Model/Year: C22/1979

Hull No. #8717

Hailing Port: Buck Creek, Ohio
03/07/2006 6:28 AM Pacific Time

Sean,

Check out this link below. I built this mast raising system for my boat. A friend built one like it for his ComPac 23 (bigger and heavier mast). It works great and is cheap to build. You use the mainsheet and associated hardware to help the process. I can raise and lower my mast by myself and stop during the process to untangle lines and shrouds.

https://netfiles.uiuc.edu/rwahlfel/www/BobConway01.htm

Bob
Ken Dula
Fletcher, N.C.

Boat Name: Second Wind

Model/Year: Catalina 22 1977

Hull No. 7697

Hailing Port:
03/07/2006 6:50 AM Pacific Time

Here is my 2cents. I just finished a mast raising/lowering system on my trailer. I also wanted to use an electric winch, but found that all of the cheaper ones only powered in and free wheeled out. If I were going to lower the mast using this system, that wouldn't work! So what I did was I bought a winch with a brake on it, similar to the keel winch. I installed that in place of the standard trailer winch and then built a roller assembly that mounts to the bow rail.

After lifting the mast with the mast up to it's full height, I then hop down and use the winch on the forestay and up she goes. It will want to wander a bit, but the shrouds seem to hold it fine. When it's time to lower the mast, I can lower it to any position and if I need to clear a fouled shroud or what have you, the braking winch will hold it there. This system is especially helpful when you can't find a flat area to work on and you are fighting gravity.

My original plan was to have an electric winch and a long remote so I could do this from the cockpit, but after looking thoroughly for one that powers in and out, I could only find a warn winch that would cost several hundred dollars. so I opted for the manual winch for now.
Artur Piotrowski
Burlington, Ct

Boat Name: Spirit

Model/Year: C22 1986

Hull No. 13485

Hailing Port: Bantam, Ct
03/07/2006 7:21 PM Pacific Time

Thanks so much for all your input. It looks like there are primarly 2 systems:
one that keeps all the parts on the boat and gains the leverage by applying the gen pole or some kind of extention. The other one keeps all the parts on the trailer and gains the leverage by raising the attachment point (long square tube).
I guess my high priority requirement is to have as little extra parts to carry around and minimum assembly time. I think I want to fix all the parts on the trailer frame.
Manual or electric winch.
You're right about the cheap electric winches. They work only one way so, I would have to come up with some sort of wire/cable brake which could slow down the free wheel. As far as manual, what is you winch model? Direct drive? I looked up a couple of Fulton auto brake winches. One is K650, direct drive. The other in my price range is K/KX1051, 4:1 gear ratio. Please let me know.

"Spirit" #13485
Dick Reynolds
Lebanon, Oregon

Boat Name: Catnip

Model/Year: Swing Keel / 1974

Hull No. 4570

Hailing Port: Newport, Oregon
03/07/2006 7:50 PM Pacific Time

Robert. I just have to mention a different way that is used in Huntington Harbor in So. Cal. These poor millionaires who live there all have much larger boats than our puddle jumpers and the only times they have to worry about their masts is when they enter or leave their harbor. The bridge (hwy 101) is too low so they have to dip the mast. I have watched this and to translate it to our boat is looks like they loosen the BACK lowers, unhook the backstay, and lower the mast forwards using the main sheet. Is this thinking out of the box or what? I observed this over 30 years ago so don't know how or if furling headsails would complicate this.
Sean Madian
Portland, OR

Boat Name: Time Out

Model/Year: 1973

Hull No. CL 3839 FX

Hailing Port: Portland
03/08/2006 5:56 AM Pacific Time

Bob's gin pole set up is pretty cool (thanks for the link Bob). For more info on an alternative check out http://www.c22pdx.org/ for the Fleet 20 site. Click on newsletter and then select the new one. There's an article on the topics covered and a downloadable video as well. Enjoy!
Ken Dula
Fletcher, N.C.

Boat Name: Second Wind

Model/Year: Catalina 22 1977

Hull No. 7697

Hailing Port:
03/08/2006 6:44 AM Pacific Time

Artur-
I got my winch from Northern tool. Here is the webpage:

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&productId=207870&R=207870

I built the bow roller out of 1X1 oak and used wing nuts to make it easy to remove. I basically took an idea I found online and modified it to suit. The boat can be rigged and launched in about 25 minutes with two people, or around 35 by myself. I can send pictures if you would like, but it will be next week before I can get out to the boat.



Stefan Damstrom


Boat Name: Delfina sold!

Model/Year: C22mK2 / 1987

Hull No. 14306 sold :-(

Hailing Port:
03/08/2006 8:58 AM Pacific Time

Here's the link to Fleet 20 (Dale Mack) that I just read....simply, elegent, effective: http://catalina22fleet20.home.comcast.net/news/rpts/200603/200603.htm#Gin_Pole
Thomas G. Guydos
California

Boat Name: Sandee

Model/Year: C-22 1978

Hull No. 8351

Hailing Port: Morro Bay. California
03/11/2006 12:11 AM Pacific Time

On a 12 V winch all you have to do is reverce the wires to change direction.
Wayne Jones
McLeansville, NC

Boat Name: Lazy Days

Model/Year: C22, 1987

Hull No. CTYH4170D787

Hailing Port: Greensboro, NC
03/11/2006 1:12 PM Pacific Time

I use Al Gearings approach to raising the mast of standing on the sliding hatch., but I have one question, may be a little off topic, but I'd appreciate you help. I'mfairly new to sailing and even newer to fibreglass. I'm replaceing my sliding hatch, due to broken support tabs, with a new one from CD. The new one is somewhat lighter and thinner than the original, which concerns me on it's strength. Is this due to new technology and something I'm maybe a little overly concerned about.
Sean Madian
Portland, OR

Boat Name: Time Out

Model/Year: 1973

Hull No. CL 3839 FX

Hailing Port: Portland
03/12/2006 6:50 AM Pacific Time

I can't speak to Wayne's question, but I thought I'd come back to the gin pole. Yesterday I built one using Dale Mack's model minus the winch (which is in transit w/UPS). It took me about 90 minutes to build and cost under $30 (a 96" 2x4, rope, hardware, and a ratcheted winch). The mast went right up and other than a heart stopping moment when the mast passes the balance point and begins to come forward on its own ("Gosh, will this really work or should I prepare to jump off this thing and home to stay out of the way as the mast and rigging crash down???") it went just fine.
Al Gearing
Burleson, Texas

Boat Name: Torch of Freedom

Model/Year: C-22 '76

Hull No. 6448

Hailing Port: Arlington YC
03/13/2006 10:56 AM Pacific Time

I'd like to note that the Huntington Harbor mast dipping is done forward to use the boom as a gin pole. They re-rig the standard deck step with a tabernacle, pivoting mast base. My family talked me out of moving down there when it was cheap, daugther in last year of high school, I've been sorry for a long time.
I think the new hatch has got to be as strong or stronger than the orginal ones, a lot of new materials and techniques in 35 years.
Al Ge
Marc Yacht
Hudson, FL

Boat Name: Why Knot

Model/Year: Catalina C 22/'82/swing keel

Hull No. 1076

Hailing Port: Hudson, FL
04/02/2006 4:18 PM Pacific Time

I am trying to find the best way to raise and lower my mast as I trail the boat (just got it). Can the wench on the trailer be used? I don't see that recommended as an option. If not, why not? MJY
Marc Yacht
Hudson, FL

Boat Name: Why Knot

Model/Year: Catalina C 22/'82/swing keel

Hull No. 1076

Hailing Port: Hudson, FL
04/02/2006 4:20 PM Pacific Time

Sorry, that should be winch (I'm a great sailor but a terrible speller). MJY
Michael Smalter
Webster, NY

Boat Name: Marrakesh

Model/Year: 1986

Hull No. 13645

Hailing Port: Rochester, NY
04/02/2006 5:16 PM Pacific Time

Marc, the trailer winch might work. It depends on the angles. When the mast is down, the angle of the winch line would be low. Would you go above or below the bow pulpit? When the mast is almost up, would the winch line foul on the pulpit?
An advantage of a gin pole with integral winch is that you can be on the boat, close to the mast, to clear any fouled lines.
Marc Yacht
Hudson, FL

Boat Name: Why Knot

Model/Year: Catalina C 22/'82/swing keel

Hull No. 1076

Hailing Port: Hudson, FL
04/02/2006 6:52 PM Pacific Time

Thanks Michael. MJY
Lynn Buchanan
Nevada City, CA

Boat Name: SAILYNN

Model/Year: SWING 1984

Hull No. 11994

Hailing Port: SCOTTS FLAT LAKE, CA
04/03/2006 10:59 AM Pacific Time

for raising and lowering the mast on shore, i use the CD mast up and an A frame made of galv. pipe. the pipes are the length from the forward upper stay chain plate to the bow if the pipe was laying on the deck. both ends are flattened and drilled for a bolt hole. i cross the top and bolt it together with washers to allow swivel. I added a large chain length to this top cross for afixing the genoa halyard and boat trailer winch strap. the bottom each side of the A frame has flattened ends with holes. i attached 3-4" piece of the same type pipe with flattened ends to this using a bolt with washers to allow swivel room. then I take the other flat end of the 3-4" piece with a hole in it and bolt it to the forward most upper shroud chain plate using a bolt with wing nut. i grab the top of the a frame and attach it to the jib halyard so the a frame is hanging in the air and cinch off the jib halyard to the mast cleat. I unroll the trailer winch strap and attach it to the a frame. (i leave on my backup bow chain to the trailer/boat) if i'm alone, i get off the boat and use the trailer winch to raise the mast, but it's easier to get someone walking by in the parking lot to do the winching. the A frame keeps the mast centered and the trailer winch has a brake so you can stop whenever you want and unfoul anything. is suppose instead of using the boat winch strap you could use your boom vang or another block and tackle and use your boat winches. but with the two speed trailer winch, my 9 year old grand-daughter can do the cranking. you can use the reverse process for letting down the mast. i have digital pictures of this. contact me off line at [email protected]
Dick King
Melbourne, FL

Boat Name: Twilight Zone

Model/Year: Sport/2005

Hull No. 15546

Hailing Port: Melbourne, FL
04/03/2006 9:04 PM Pacific Time

I recently posted the following to the Chip Ford Maillist. I really like the system as it is simple to make and easy to use. I have posted a few photos of the system at http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/c227976/my_photos. They are located in the Catalina 22 Sport album.

I bought a raising pole from my dealer for about 50 bucks. My mast
has a one inch hole cut into the forward side of the mast a couple of inches
up from the base. The pole is about eight feet long and is made of thick
wall aluminum tubing. It has a flange welded to it, so the aft end of the
pole just reaches the sail grove on the inside of the mast. It also has two
heavy duty pad eyes through bolted to the forward end, one on top and one
underneath.

Starting with the mast up at about a 15 degree angle, held by a Mast Up, I
poke the end with the flange into the hole on the mast and set it to a
ninety degree angle with the face of the mast. (I use either the jib halyard
or the spinnaker halyard to connect the outer end of the pole (the upper
eye) to the mast.) I connect the main sheet (I have snap shackle on both
fiddle blocks) between the outer end of the pole (the bottom eye) and the
genoa tack shackle. (I have also used the life line ring at the bottom of
the bow pulpit). The mast is then easily raised to vertical and held in
place by the mainsheet. I have a crew steady the mast from side to side
until the aft lowers can handle the stability. (Yesterday, we raised the
mast in a 12 kt cross wind with no problems.)

I run my forward lowers pretty loose and I have a backstay adjuster. So I
have enough slack in the forestay and the forward lowers to pin them in
place while the mast is held up by the mainsheet/jib pole/genoa halyard set
up.

I have a Mark II/Sport mast which already has the hole cut in the base of
the mast. However, I see no reason why you couldn't use this system on any
mast, after the one inch hole is cut in the forward edge.

BTW, I tried to order just the stabilizing cables from Catalina Direct, as my mast is already set up for them. Mr. Richardson told me that his kit would not work on the curved deck of a Sport, although they were trying to design a kit that would. I found that with one extra person, they really aren't necessary.
Greg Guenther
Belleville, IL

Boat Name: Magnificat

Model/Year: 1970

Hull No. 473

Hailing Port: Belleville, IL
04/05/2006 6:26 AM Pacific Time

I don't really have anything to add to lowering the mast while underway but I did want to thank Al Gearing for his input on stepping the mast before putting the boat into the water. Previously I tried to walk it up from the cockpit and several times almost killed myself. Using the AG method I can do this job singlehanded and with almost no effort or risk.

THANK YOU AL!!

Greg
Chris Coombs
Deerfield NH

Boat Name: Second Wind

Model/Year: '74 Catalina 22

Hull No. 2313

Hailing Port: Deerfield NH
09/12/2007 6:53 PM Pacific Time

Hi, folks!
Does anyone have the video Ken Palmer put out there about one-man mast raising? Does anyone know how to do it?
Thanks!
Ben Welch
Pasadena, MD

Boat Name: Absolutely Business!

Model/Year: Catalina 25 Std. Rig 1981

Hull No. 2695

Hailing Port: Pasadena, Maryland
10/27/2007 9:33 AM Pacific Time

Catalina 25 Area?
The website takes me to the Catalina 22 discussion area when I click on "Catalina 25". There were 6,500 C25 boats built, ...surely there are enough owners around for a forum. I have had two of these great boats, just completed
major work on the second one. 'Removed an OMC Zephyr Sail Drive and
glassed over the "hole" ...so, if anybody needs pice/info, contact me.

I need some advice on lowering the mast to replace light bulbs, and
to secure my mast-mounted instrumentation.

Any info would be much appreciated!

Ben Welch, Catalina 25 #2695 - "Absolutely Business!"
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=6918&l=08c39&id=546247145
There are some boat pics there.
email: [email protected]
Peter
Stamford, CT

Boat Name: Au Contraire

Model/Year: Catalina 22 1986

Hull No. 13325

Hailing Port: Stamford
10/30/2007 5:13 AM Pacific Time

In lowering the mast do you have to loosen or detach any of the shrouds?
Al Gearing
Burleson, Texas

Boat Name: Torch of Freedom

Model/Year: C-22/'76

Hull No. 6448

Hailing Port: Arlington YC
10/31/2007 8:23 AM Pacific Time

Peter, you have to detach the forward lowers at the deck of course, but the aft lowers and the uppers will hold the mast up due to the slight per bend set into the mast when up and tuned. This is nice for doing it single handed, you should first ease the backstay, then you can take off the headstay and lower forwards without worry. You should have the mast crutch in place on the rudder gudgeons, and then you will have to push the mast through the per-bend before it will start to fall on it's own. I just straddle it as I walk aft on the closed hatch, the whole mast and shrouds only weight about 50 lb. so it is not all that difficult to handle and set it into the mast crutch. Then I lower the crutch to the travel position., pull the bolt in mast step and slide the mast forward to the bow pulpit. I use the cunningham to lash it in place, tie up the shrouds loosely so they won't go over the side and tie down the mast to the crutch and away I go. It is not neccessary to cleanup the cockpit and deck, you will not be using it, and it will be ready to go back up when you get to where you're going.
For what it's worth,
Al Ge
Dick Reynolds
Lebanon, Oregon

Boat Name: Catnip

Model/Year: Swing Keel / 1974

Hull No. 4570

Hailing Port: Newport, Oregon
10/31/2007 7:49 PM Pacific Time

Peter, I, on the other hand, have to unpin the mast from the mast step and slide it forward to the pulpit before I lower the mast-up. This is because the block on the vang interfers with the cabin (hatch) top. As many 22s are different I must also loosen the uppers as the uppers terminate forward of the mast a little bit. Dick Reynolds
Al Gearing
Burleson, Texas

Boat Name: Torch of Freedom

Model/Year: C-22/'76

Hull No. 6448

Hailing Port: Arlington YC
11/01/2007 7:11 AM Pacific Time

What Dick says is true, and on 6448 it takes really hard push to get past the 'hard' spot, but it saves me having to reset the uppers each time.
Al Ge
Bob Keim
Nashville

Boat Name: Pursuit

Model/Year: C22/1976

Hull No.

Hailing Port: Nashville
11/02/2007 3:59 AM Pacific Time

My uppers are forward of the mast and I don't loosen them to raise or lower my mast. And... I got my uppers pretty tight, around 30 on an old Loos.

Yeah, it takes a shove to get the mast to start going down, but the good thing is that I don't have to worry about it falling while I hook up the forestay.
Peter
Stamford, CT

Boat Name: Au Contraire

Model/Year: Catalina 22 1986

Hull No. 13325

Hailing Port: Stamford
11/04/2007 2:49 PM Pacific Time

Follow-up on forward lower shrouds.
Well, we tried taking down the mast without undoing the forward lowers. It did not work. We tried loosening the shrouds and it still was not good. Finally, we removed the forward shrouds and everything went down nicely.

In the future I will just pull the top of the mast forward, releasing the pressure on these shrouds, then undo the pin at the bottom of the turnbuckle (I am sure there is some obscure name for this) .

Thanks for your help.
Al Gearing
Burleson, Texas

Boat Name: Torch of Freedom

Model/Year: C-22 '76

Hull No. 6448

Hailing Port: Arlington YC
11/05/2007 5:38 AM Pacific Time

Peter, if you really want to get fancy there are turnbuckles with quick release levers that you can buy for the forward lowers. Saves having to re-set them.
Al Ge
t reynolds
escanaba mi

Boat Name: impulse

Model/Year: 1982 c 22

Hull No. 10619

Hailing Port: escanaba mi
08/27/2013 5:45 AM Pacific Time

You can now purchase a 12 v ATV winch that has wireless remote.. I am going to mount mine on the trailer, in place of the old hand crank winch, then figure out how to use it to raise and lower the mast. google superATV
 
 
Standing Rigging / Spars
Catalina Direct Discussion Topics / Catalina 22 Discussion Area / Standing Rigging / Spars / Mast Raising and Lowering