andy
hamburg, Pa.
Boat Name:
Model/Year:
Hull No.
Hailing Port: |
 01/10/2004 2:47 PM Pacific Time
I have a C-30 and I want to fix the windows that are leaking, I was wondering what are the best products to use. The previous owner purchased the new seals and tryed to fix one of the windows but it still leaks so I am not sure if he was useing the right caulk. |
Phil O'Donnell
Folsom, CA
Boat Name: Kolea
Model/Year: 1975
Hull No. 4847
Hailing Port: Folsom, CA |
01/10/2004 3:08 PM Pacific Time
I would recommend a polysulfide caulk (Life Caulk) if the windows are glass. This caulk is good for metal fiberglass and glass. I used it for a leaky lower gudgeon and a re-mound of some handrails that were also leaking. After 2 years no problem. (I heard it was not good for plexiglass but have no first hand knowledge of that) |
Mike Bracket
Clinton Twp, MI
Boat Name: Gunsmoke
Model/Year: 1979
Hull No. 9150
Hailing Port: Lake St Clair MI |
01/10/2004 8:53 PM Pacific Time
Andy: how are the windows constructed? Are they a two part aluminum frame like the older C22s? I have some experience with that style and can offer a couple hints.
Mike Bracket
Gunsmoke 9150 |
Larry
Greenville, SC
Boat Name: Kemo Sabe
Model/Year: C-22 , 1973
Hull No. 2229
Hailing Port: www.keoweesailingclub.com |
01/10/2004 10:10 PM Pacific Time
I read somewhere that Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack cure is great for sealing leaks. I have used it on decks, but never that, but I don't see how it would hurt to try.
Larry |
Boat Name:
Model/Year:
Hull No.
Hailing Port: |
01/13/2004 6:45 AM Pacific Time
There's a good article at this web page on repair of leaky windows. Hope it helps.
http://www.yachtsurvey.com/WindowRepair.htm
Tony Carlisle |
Jerry Ludgate
Pflugerville, TX
Boat Name: Seas The Day
Model/Year: 1975
Hull No. 5137
Hailing Port: storage unit in Pflugerville still! |
02/16/2004 5:06 PM Pacific Time
Resealing the aluminum framed windows is also on my long list of projects. I was wondering if anyone has had any experience with tinting the windows prior to reinstalling them? If so, were you able to apply the tint fully to the edge, or did you have to apply it afterwards, allowing for a very small amount of clearance next to the sealing material similar to an automotive installation?
I would like to install rather dark film. Any ideas on this, including any rationale against this would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Jerry |
Dan Plank
Cullman, AL
Boat Name: Half Fast
Model/Year: C-22 / 1989
Hull No. 14855
Hailing Port: Guntersville, AL |
03/21/2004 9:41 AM Pacific Time
I have just purchased a 1989 Catalina 22 also with leaky windows. However, there is no aluminum frame. Some of the screws were loose so I tightened them all around, only to find about 25% of them are stripped out. What is the best procedure to fix both of these problems-the leaky windows and the stripped out screw holes? Any and all ideas are appreciated.
Dan |
Al Gearing
Burleson, Texas
Boat Name: Torch of Freedom
Model/Year: C-22 '76
Hull No. 6448
Hailing Port: Arlington YC |
03/24/2004 7:04 AM Pacific Time
Dan, it sounds like you have the 'new' window design, or someones redo. With aluminum frames the screws are on the inside, and clamp the frames together. It sounds like the new ones are screwed from the outside. If that be the case and they are stripped it would seem that it will require a bolt with a nut on the inside. There are 'screw-nuts' available which have nice looking head, however, the only size I have is for 1 1/2" thick material, two pieces of 3/4" cabinet material. I cannot find them in my catalogs, McFeely's, or a cabinet hardware specialty company, maybe in Grainger or MacMaster-Carr, I don't have recent copies. The other thought might be pop-rivets, then cover with a gob of sealant for head banging protection.
For what it's worth, Al Ge |
Michael Smalter
Webster, NY
Boat Name: Marrakesh
Model/Year: 1986
Hull No. 13645
Hailing Port: Rochester, NY |
03/24/2004 2:31 PM Pacific Time
Rather than use bolts, how about going up one size in screw diameter? (ie #6 to #8). I would remove the window, clean out the old sealant, then rebed it with silicone seal, make sure that you keep don't squeeze the sealant too thin by tightening the screws too much. I believe Gary Lucas had experience that you want the bead to be 1/8-3/16" thick in order to allow flex without breaking the seal. |
Dan Plank
Cullman, AL
Boat Name: Half Fast
Model/Year: C-22 / 1989
Hull No. 14855
Hailing Port: Guntersville, AL |
03/24/2004 3:55 PM Pacific Time
I thought about going up a screw size, but wouldn't that mean having to drill the hole in the window larger? Would that be risking a crack in the window? Would that be a long term solution? My thought is that if I have to take the window off anyway, I might as well put some epoxy, resin, fiberglass in all the holes to make sure all the screws will hold firm. This is all new to me, maybe might thinking is wrong. If so, someone please tell me!!!! You raise a good point about not tightening the screws all the way down to allow some flex between the window and the boat. Thanks, Dan
p.s. If anyone is wondering, I am working on a name for my boat. Doing some research now. |
Michael Smalter
Webster, NY
Boat Name: Marrakesh
Model/Year: 1986
Hull No. 13645
Hailing Port: Rochester, NY |
03/24/2004 5:24 PM Pacific Time
If it is a plexiglass window and the hole isn't too close to the edge, you should be able to drill it out OK. Your idea of filling the old hole and redrilling is good too. |
Howard Friedman
Pisgah Forest, NC
Boat Name: Forspacious Seas
Model/Year: Wing - 1989
Hull No. 14907
Hailing Port: Lake Keowee-Seneca, SC |
03/25/2004 8:02 AM Pacific Time
I had the same problem with my '89 when I bought it used. I found a number of stripped and missing screws. I bought a number of screws one size larger (keep the same length or it will punch through the other side) and installed them by drilling out the old holes in the plexi but not going into the glass. I tightened them down and the leaks stopped. I guessw the sealant was still viable. It has held up fine for well over two years. I'd try that first before taking them apart and resealing. |
Chad Vicknair
New Orleans, LA
Boat Name: Hope Floats
Model/Year: 1975
Hull No. CTYH66727M76L
Hailing Port: Lake Pontchartrain, New Orleans |
04/08/2004 9:21 PM Pacific Time
I used the replacement gasket material from Catalina Direct and resealed my windows following their instructions. My windows are sealed tight with no leaks and look great. Thanks to CD for stocking this item. I also tinted the glass while I had the windows appart, and in response to someones question, was able to tint all the way to the edge of the glass.... it looks great! ... Chad |
Jerry Ludgate
Pflugerville, TX
Boat Name:
Model/Year:
Hull No.
Hailing Port: |
04/10/2004 7:25 PM Pacific Time
Thanks for the reply to the tinting question, Chad. |
Bobby McCullough
Franklin, TN
Boat Name: Intrepid
Model/Year: 1971
Hull No. 741
Hailing Port: Old Hickory and Percy Priest Lakes |
06/16/2004 7:02 PM Pacific Time
I have the kit to repair leaky windows but the instructions do not explain how to cut the channel material. Does it need to overlap? Should it just mate up end to end? If so, should this be on the top edge of the glass?
And what about window tint? Should I get the channel on and cured first before applying tint film?
Thanks! |
J L Taylor
Houston, TX
Boat Name:
Model/Year: Catalina 25/1982
Hull No. 2997
Hailing Port: Legend Point Marina |
08/18/2004 9:26 AM Pacific Time
i have a 1982 catalina 25, with leaky windows. i'm trying to find the black gasket/seal that is on the outside and inside of the windows. I think i need to replace it. |
Michael Smalter
Webster, NY
Boat Name: Marrakesh
Model/Year: 1986
Hull No. 13645
Hailing Port: Rochester, NY |
08/18/2004 4:49 PM Pacific Time
Catalina Direct sells the gasket/repair kit. Also, look farther up in this discussion. There's lots of useful info. |
Uwe Behrendt
Rutland Vermont
Boat Name: Joyful
Model/Year: 1977 C22
Hull No. 7200
Hailing Port: Plunder Bay Orwell VT |
08/28/2004 6:48 AM Pacific Time
This seems to be a common problem, here is how I fixed mine.
All 4 windows leaked and I always ended up with water in the billage .
First look at the window, the outside seal should have a small bevel about 45 deg if not then the seal has been installed backwards.
To fix this remove the window, once done you will notice the separation of the outer hull shell and the inner shell, this is where all your water is coming from. Most likely the lights under the windows are also ruined. Remove and replace them. Clean the inner and outer shell removing any and all goop that you used over the years to stop the leaking.
Now for the windows, they are most likely split aluminum frames. If you have a gap on the inside and outside seal at the bottom the seals have shrunk. Not really a problem but a leaking area.
Remove your inner seal and place it aside if its cleanable does so for reuse.
On the side of the widow remove the screws to the upper half of the frame.
and slowly separate both halves, this may take some force but take your time. If you used RTV in the outside to fix the leak earlier clean this off first, the shell comes apart easier that way.
I did mine on board keeping handy a water hose.
Put on some dirty shorts ,have a beer and lay all the parts on the deck floor The saftyglass pane should be set aside away from all. Don’t cut yourself on the edge this glass is not finished I cut myself twice and with the next step and a cut on your hand this will burn.
I know we all have some of that bottom cleaner left over somewhere after cleaning off last years scum.
Find it and put some in an old Windex sprayer.
Now spay all the parts on the floor completely and let it set for ten minutes to soak this actually serves two purposes. One you’re going to clean the deck floor. It needs it anyway, and two. It will shine up the aluminum a bit.
Go to the kitchen and get your wife’s dishwashing gloves, the ones that are always too small. Now sit in the boat and take that deck cleaner and a small brush and scrub all the parts and seals. If your brave and do it without gloves that’s fine ,but your going you feel that cut you got earlier on the window.
Ok now your really dirty ,get that water hose and rinse everything down including yourself. Get another beer.
Your OB drains do work don’t they?
Its time for reassembly
I reused my old seals the were not bad you may purchase replacements from Catalina.
Get that window now ,as well as some armorall, and the lower frame and outer seal.
Place the window in the right direction in your lap with the saftyglass writing to the outside lower rite side. You should be able to read the writing the proper way when the window is installed.
Place the glass in your lap, grab the outside window seal and the LOWER frame this is the one with the large 45deg angle and the tabs that you did not remove earlier, right!!.
Your widow leaked because the seal shrunk we are going to install the seal so that the two halves meat a the top ,not the bottom, if it shrinks it wont leak.
If your using the old seal the curves wont match, stretch it a bit first.
Now place the seal on the lower edge, wrapping it around the window as best as possible.
MAKE SURE THE 45DEG BEVEL IS TO THE OUTSIDE OF THE WINDOW. or it will leak again.
Now spay the armorall onto the lower frame and starting with the sharp bend slowly slide the frame around the window. Grab the rag in front of you and place it over the edge of the top of the glass ,stand it up between your legs and with both hands slowly apply pressure.
The frame should slide into place with the seal set.
Take your time its a bxxx.
Time for another beer.
You should now have the upper seal halves meet or overlap at the top with the bottom seal at least somewhat set in place. It does not have to be completely tight yet this will come all by itself later.
Take the top halve of the frame and spray unit with armorial, Place the frame in place on the front where the lower half of the angle meet the upper half and slide the metal tab into place this process will work like a hinge effect .
If the seals overlap take a pair of cutters and cut it back into only about 1/8 th inch overlap.
grab both ends. If you have to stretch it to get the contour to match do so at this time.
Slowly lower the upper frame down until it touches the backside of the lower frame Let go of the seal the should not overlap at this point and may even have a small gap, We can live with that because its at the top of the window not at the bottom.
With your left hand hold the upper seal end ,and with your right pull out a bit on the upper frame and then push down slowly . all should now slide into place.
If you don’t pull out you will pinch the seal on the backside. If this has happened you must start the upper process all over. And since you’ve already had three beers by now, It’s your call.
Once in place Place the frame between your legs and push together hard until the side plate holes line up .
Replace the two small screws that you put aside earlier
There lost right!!!!.
Congratulations your window is now ready for reinstallation.
Coat the entire frame outside lip with a silicon sealer Its your choice as to type ,there are many on the market. I chose a clear
Line your window up with the opening and grab the inside retaining ring and the screws.
Do the top center screw first start it, but don’t tighten it. Once started take the frame and push it up as high into the window opening as possible and tighten down the screw lightly to hold the window in place. Do both corners the middle halves at the bottom and then the rest. Then tighten everything down uniformly.
That’s it you’ve done your window
It should not leak anymore. Let it dry do the other three and then put the water hose to her Have another beer.
All four windows took me 4 days to do its not a quick project but a fun one
I hope this helps Uwe
|
Joe Western
Terrace, B.C.
Boat Name: Blue Velvet
Model/Year: C-30 1989
Hull No. 5656
Hailing Port: Kitimat, B.C. |
10/18/2004 10:56 PM Pacific Time
While re-installing one of my fixed plexi-glass windows after re-sealing, unfortunately I tightened a screw a little too tight and the glass cracked. It's tinted glass, does anyone have any idea where I can get a replacement?
|
Howard Friedman
Pisgah Forest, NC
Boat Name: Forspacious Seas
Model/Year: Wing - 1989
Hull No. 14907
Hailing Port: Lake Keowee-Seneca, SC |
10/22/2004 9:19 AM Pacific Time
Joe,
I had a cracked Plexi forward hatch. I looked in the yellow pages and found a company that worked with Plexiglass and Lexan. He formed a new hatch to spec out of lexan which he said was a better product than Plexiglass. The cost was $35.00. He had a choice of clear or colored as well as smoked. You can also get various thicknesses. Bring in the old window and they'll cut it and drill it to match. |
barney levengood
indianapolis, in
Boat Name: bottom line
Model/Year: cat 25 1986
Hull No.
Hailing Port: Giest Res. |
12/24/2005 12:31 PM Pacific Time
i too have plexiglass windows (cat 25 "86") and also have leaks....i have read all the notes and advise........ does anyone have additional suggestions......how to remove without breaking the remaining windows....... what type of material to use in the reto fit...also, I have one broken window...any thoughts on finding a repalcement....any help will be greatly appreciated..happy hoidays |
Lowell Richardson, Owner, Catalina Direct
Sacramento CA
Boat Name: Steamboat Willie
Model/Year: 1984
Hull No.
Hailing Port: Folsom Lake |
03/27/2006 11:38 AM Pacific Time
The only sure way to fix leaking aluminum framed windows (used until 1985) is to remove and re seal them. This is accomplished by replacing the original vinyl glazing channel and window molding. Smearing sealant along the joints never works for long and it makes the inevitable complete job much more difficult.
The frame must be removed from the boat then disassembled from the glass by dividing at the original fore and aft joints.
Because of the support we receive from Catalina owners like yourselves, we have been able to have the two vinyl extrusions (that are in every aluminum framed window) reproduced even though the factory no longer has it available... The guys in the warehouse scream when the minimum order arrives from the extruder as it is 5000' each!
The original window manufacturer relied solely on the glazing channel to seal the glass to the frame. This worked about 80% of the time. About 15 to 20% of the new boats had leaks in the frame when the boat arrived from the factory. If you re-assemble the window without using sealant, you still have a 20% chance that the window will leak when you are done. Our kit includes the proper sealant used to seal the glazing channel to the frame and the glass to the glazing channel.
Photos are shown on our web store at catalinadirect.com > Store > Catalina 22 > Hull/Deck > Midship > Aluminum window reseal kit
You will receive a printed instruction sheet with your order. It it is inexpensive and straight forward yet a time consuming job to complete.
Lowell Richardson
Steamboat Willie
Owner, Catalina Direct |
Ryan Graham
Douglasville, Ga.
Boat Name: Luana Cordelia
Model/Year: C22 1978
Hull No. 8587
Hailing Port: Douglasville, Ga (on the hard) |
01/23/2010 10:56 AM Pacific Time
I used this kit last month and it is great! I was able to compleat the project in about 2 days. This being said I worked alone (not recomended) and I am very picky about the quality of my work.
About window tinting. When the windows were out I decided to apply a 6% heat and UV deflecting tint to the windows. I would not recomend taking the tint to the edges because the seal is supposed to contact the glass. By applying the tint to the edges you are eliminating about 50% of the seals ability to seal.
For ease I cut the tint film to the edge of the windows. Applied tape to hold it in place then trimed about 2 mm back from the edge. The tint still is in the seal area but only maybe about 10% of the sealing area reduced. |
