Ken Lee
Salt Spring Island BC Canada
Boat Name: Valhalla
Model/Year: C22
Hull No. 838
Hailing Port: Fulford Harbour |
 04/30/2005 10:09 PM Pacific Time
1. How can I remove the sliding hatch?
2. My handbook says there are wiring connections at the base of the mast - I can't see anything there. Do I have to drill? Or is this under the mast plate?
Ken Lee |
Bob Endicott
Fleet 77- Ft. Walton Beach, FL
Boat Name: Tequila Sunset
Model/Year: 1985
Hull No. 12759
Hailing Port: Ft. Walton Beach, FL |
05/01/2005 5:36 AM Pacific Time
Ken,
The teak rails capturing the sliding hatch are secured by wood screws from inside the cabin. Note the orientation of the pieces for re-installation. When you re-install, be sure to clean all the old sealant off and re-bed with polysulfide sealant. Nothin' to it ;^)
Bob |
R. C. Luiken
Milford, DE
Boat Name: Ricochet
Model/Year: C-22 Swing Keel/1986
Hull No. 13560
Hailing Port: Milford, DE/St. Michaels, MD |
05/01/2005 8:13 AM Pacific Time
1 Sliding hatch removal: It is an easy job. Slide a thin putty knife between the rails and the cabin top to release the seal at the screw locations and pry up gently.. Hopefully the rails are only sealed at those points.
2. Anchor light wiring: with a hull number as low as yours I don't know if there is any wiring. On my provious C-22, 1974, I was told that there was a dimple in the cabin top just forward of the mast tabernacle. The wires were under that dimple. |
Ken Palmer
Franklin, TN.
Boat Name: "Last Penny"
Model/Year: 1981
Hull No. 10475
Hailing Port: PPYC |
05/01/2005 9:43 AM Pacific Time
you'll love this!! I just re-wired the mast on Last Penny, under the deck connector there was a 3/4" octagon teak block. I always wonder why it was there. Once I removed it I found out, there were 19 holes drilled there! One large hole for the wiring, three to secure the block and 15 that's 15 1/8" holes drilled all around the wire exit hole.. Just forward of all these hole was the dimple showing where to drill to find the mast wiring.
I went a different route when replacing the rails for the sliding hatch, I went to a NAPA store and bought a piece of cork to place under the rails, I used 1/8" but found that 1/16" will give the space you need for clearance if you decide to use the cork. The cork has rubber in it so you'll get a good waterproof seal.
I had a few areas that needed building up on my hatch, I used blue masking tape to build a dam around the sliding parts, leveled the hatch, then poured in epoxy, the next day sanded everything and reinstalled. |
