Michael Slattery Rochester, NY
Boat Name: Ventosus
Model/Year: 1982
Hull No. 10xxx
Hailing Port: Rochester, NY |
06/20/2005 1:51 PM Pacific Time
Hello, I'm new to the Catalina 22 and the Previous Owner was unsure how the boomvang he had was installed.
Please take a moment and view my pictures at http://www.sncsoftware.com/c22/c22help.htm and let me know what you think.
Thanks,
Mike Slattery |
Garrett Phoenix, AZ
Boat Name: "Sting"
Model/Year: C22 1974
Hull No. 3627
Hailing Port: Lake Pleasant, AZ |
06/20/2005 2:05 PM Pacific Time
Hi,
The boom vang is not installed too badly, on mine, from CD, the U-Shaped part is on the boom, with a through bolt so it is more secure than simply an eyelet screwed into the boom.
The cam cleats appear to me to be two (one on each side) for the traveler adjustment. The other two perhaps are for a tiller tamer, to hold the tiller in position when singlehanding....
Just my .02
Garrett |
Ken Palmer Franklin, TN.
Boat Name: "Last Penny"
Model/Year: 1981
Hull No. 10475
Hailing Port: PPYC |
06/20/2005 2:22 PM Pacific Time
the vang should be attached at 45*, looking at the picture its not. its also a 6 - 1 not the normal 4 -1, It appears that he used part of 12-1 backstay adjustment system for the vang. The current way its attached would hinder the use of a bimini top if you ever decided to use one. Its hard to tell but it appears that the traverler car is missing, a line would tie off on the tangs at the base of the traveler run to the car and back to the blocks. If you haven't got a C/D hand book I suggest you call and order one, you will find the drawings will answer a lot of you questions and help you with the missing parts on your boat.
Good Luck, |
Dick King Melbourne, FL
Boat Name: Twilight Zone
Model/Year: Sport/2005
Hull No. 15546
Hailing Port: Melbourne, FL |
06/21/2005 7:06 AM Pacific Time
Hi Mike - I have always said a picture is worth a thousand words. I just didn't say it first. In this case, since you asked, I will give you a lot of words.
-Boom vang - The vang is just fine; a little far back on the boom, but workable. The only change I would make is to reverse the blocks. That way you can reach the tail from the cockpit and it gives you an extra part. By the way, that would be a 7-1 mechanical advantage. That is what I have on Jagged Edge. I like the idea of not putting a big through-bolt in the boom. However keep an eye on the fasteners on that eye strap. The vang can exert a lot of force (combination of shear and tension) on the boom and could pull them out of the boom. If that happens, use a small boom claw that is screwed into the sides of the boom. That way all the forces are in shear.
-Back stay adjuster - I suspect (looking at the hook on the end) that this tackle was meant for the boom vang or possibly a reefing/cummingham setup and the tackle you are using for the vang was meant for the backstay adjuster. I would be concerned about the hook coming UNHOOKED, during the raising of the mast. Get another tackle like the boom vang and install a 12-1 backstay adjuster. You will need to add another eye bolt in the transom on the port side. Put a wire block on the backstay where the existing adjuster attaches. Rig a short piece of 7x19 x 1/8 cable that reaches from one of the eye bolts to just past the block on the backstay. Attach the tackle between the end of the wire and the other transom eyebolt.
-Mast base - I notice the halyard blocks are attached to the mast step and the force is bending the sides out. Not good! Get a halyard plate from CD (or a machine shop) and put it between the deck and the mast step. Give the mast step a break or it might take one of its own.
-Traveller - There should be a control line for each side of the traveller car. The normal rigging is to tie the end to the tang under the end of the traveller bar, route the line through the sheave on the traveller car and then down through the cam cleat on the face of the transom. As for the other cam cleats mounted on the top of the transom, I suspect, based on their angle, they were used to hold the tiller in position. (A piece of line tied with a clove hitch around the tiller, with the windward tail snapped into the camcleat. If you contact me offline (Romeo Tango Kilo Juliet Romeo @ bellsouth.net, I will send you photos of my setup.
Have you thought about contacting the previous owner and asking him/her?
My apologies to the clubhouse patrons for the long post. |
Michael Slattery Rochester, NY
Boat Name: Ventosus
Model/Year: 1982
Hull No. 10xxx
Hailing Port: Rochester, NY |
06/21/2005 7:39 AM Pacific Time
Thanks all for your info... Dick I'll send you an email... |
Robert Leach
Boat Name:
Model/Year:
Hull No.
Hailing Port: |
06/22/2005 6:51 AM Pacific Time
I've got a photo of my vang at www.leachs.com. The purchase is powerful enough to bend the boom, which I don't recommend.
Also, just a note that my boat is forsale.
Thanks,
Robert |
John Flato Houston
Boat Name:
Model/Year: 1984
Hull No. 12030
Hailing Port: Shoreacres, TX |
06/22/2005 8:13 AM Pacific Time
My boom vang set up is not that much different than Roberts. A 4 to 1 purchase is enough to bend the boom. You do not need more. Also be careful about drilling too many holes in the boom where you put the bail, it can weaken it. I broke a boom at this attachment point. If you can get away with just two bolts or rivets, you may be better off.
The boom is not that thick. I have a cam cleat on the boom which has pulled out more than once using tapped bolts. I have ended up using pop rivets with more success. I don't recall how I attached my vang. |