John Connor
Little Rock, AR
Boat Name: Weekender
Model/Year: C22 1982
Hull No. 11192
Hailing Port: Little Rock, Arkansas |
 09/08/2005 8:25 PM Pacific Time
I haven't messed with what appears to be the original switch / fuse panel and have only been sailing during the day so I haven't had a need to use the lights or install a battery.
To make a long story slightly shorter, what size and type of fuses are typically installed in the panel and are they generic across all the switches? Also, a couple of the switches are broken - can I move them around to the positions I need until I can order the replacement?
Finally, I'm thinking about getting the 6 position lighted switch panel from West Marine - anybody have any experience with it and will I need to adjust the panel opening for this panel?
Thanks,
John |
Dick King
Melbourne, FL
Boat Name: Twilight Zone
Model/Year: Sport/2005
Hull No. 15546
Hailing Port: Melbourne, FL |
09/09/2005 3:57 AM Pacific Time
Hi John - Don't even mess with the old panel. Get the West Marine panel and install it. I bit the bullet and completely rewired Jagged Edge. I have pictures in a Yahoo photo album. See: http://tinyurl.com/eyzra |
Al Gearing
Burleson, Texas
Boat Name: Torch of Freedom
Model/Year: C-22 '76
Hull No. 6448
Hailing Port: Arlington YC |
09/09/2005 4:57 AM Pacific Time
I agree with Dick King, get the new panel. However, since I have been working on 11431 for my friend, I have found a clever idea. He took the old panel, before the switches had been broken by stepping on them, and remounted it next to the winch on that cover. Another boat in our yard, made the battery compartment cover wider, covering the panel, and making a better place to stand in the hatch. He used aluminum tread plate, which he said was only a pound or so heavier than the wood one. I use wood to do the same thing, but mine are much heavier. The new panel has rocker switches and flush fuse holders. They use the same AGC3 fuses, from 1 to 5 amps. depending on the circuit.
Al Ge |
Sean Madian
Portland, OR
Boat Name: Time Out
Model/Year: 1973
Hull No. CL 3839 FX
Hailing Port: Portland |
09/09/2005 5:24 AM Pacific Time
I agree with the foregoing but would add something. We have an older C22 (#2485) and the original panel had been replaced with the fused Catalina panel which was installed in what appears to be the default location below the keel handle. What an odd place to put a panel! We are moving that panel to the location of the old panel and installing the battery selector directly adjacent to it as well. This gets the panel, selector switch, bilge switch, meter and wiring well away from the batteries, out of the bilge and into plain sight. We may install a hinged plexi cover if accidental switching occurs. I can not for the life of me understand why the panel is commonly installed near the floor where feet hit it and where you can not see it. |
John Connor
Little Rock, AR
Boat Name: Weekender
Model/Year: C22 1982
Hull No. 11192
Hailing Port: Little Rock, Arkansas |
09/09/2005 8:28 AM Pacific Time
Thanks for the help. Based on y'alls recommendation, I have ordered the West Marine panel about 10 minutes ago. If my wife asks, I'm gonna tell her you told me to. :-)
Thanks for the pictures, Dick. I had been considering upgrading to the bow pulpit light but didn't know where to run the cable. Now I do!!
I like the idea of changing to an aluminum step plate, Al. My makes a scary cracking noise if I step on it just right and I know that I'm gonna go through it one day.
Not sure if I'm ready to move the panel position. I probably will but want to minimize the fiberglass work for a little while.
Thanks for the help!!!
John |
Mary Jo
Pierre, SD
Boat Name: Windependent
Model/Year: C22
Hull No. 9458
Hailing Port: Lake Oahe |
09/09/2005 9:36 AM Pacific Time
John - can you send the link for the panel you ordered? I need to do this project this fall. Actually, thinking of having someone do it for me. Would it be best to have a marine shop do it (they're not too hot around here) or could a regular electrician install it?
Thanks!
Mary Jo |
John Connor
Little Rock, AR
Boat Name: Weekender
Model/Year: C22 1982
Hull No. 11192
Hailing Port: Little Rock, Arkansas |
09/09/2005 12:42 PM Pacific Time
Here is the link:
http://tinyurl.com/8nc3o
I can't imagine using an electrician or boat shop. I'm adequately handy - haven't caused any permanent damage fixing electrical components around the house either to myself or the house - so I'm planning on installing it myself.
I will probably pick up a copy of the 12 volt Bible or another book on the subject to get myself up to speed.
Good luck,
John |
Keith Gattozzi
Dennis MA
Boat Name:
Model/Year: 1977 22 Catalina
Hull No.
Hailing Port: West Dennis MA |
09/09/2005 7:38 PM Pacific Time
Do you have to do any modifications to the boat to fit the West Marine fuse panel in place of the original one ? Thanks Keith |
Greg Nelson
Rose Haven, MD/Oro Valley,AZ
Boat Name: SOBB TOO
Model/Year: 1975/6
Hull No. 5953
Hailing Port: Deale, MD |
09/10/2005 1:31 PM Pacific Time
I vaguely recall having to make the opening a little larger. Since it has only a been year and I can't remember that gives you some indication it was no big deal. It has been a great improvement - right next to sealing the upper gudgeon in terms of getting rid of irritants, |
Mary Jo
Pierre, SD
Boat Name: Windependent
Model/Year: C22
Hull No. 9458
Hailing Port: Lake Oahe |
09/12/2005 7:29 AM Pacific Time
John, Thank you for sending the link to your panel. I read the product reviews, however; and they were terrible. What's up? Have you experienced problems with the switch lights and fuses going out? |
Ken Palmer
Franklin, TN.
Boat Name: "Last Penny"
Model/Year: 1981
Hull No. 10475
Hailing Port: PPYC |
09/12/2005 8:36 AM Pacific Time
you could use a 8 gang Blue Seas breaker panel, you would of course have to move it from the IMO worse of all places the panel could have been placed by the factory. I put one in "Last Penny" a couple of years ago, I moved it around the corner and inset it 1 inch. We have never kicked it or for that matter ever touched it with our feet. Each circuit is now on a breaker rather than having one breaker for the panel. There is a picture of it on Randy's maintence page. |
John Connor
Little Rock, AR
Boat Name: Weekender
Model/Year: C22 1982
Hull No. 11192
Hailing Port: Little Rock, Arkansas |
09/13/2005 7:31 AM Pacific Time
I haven't installed one - just ordered it from West a day ago and while Fedex is good about delivery they aren't that good yet.
THe good thing is that West has a satisfaction guarantee and a extended warranty policy.
|
John Connor
Little Rock, AR
Boat Name: Weekender
Model/Year: C22 1982
Hull No. 11192
Hailing Port: Little Rock, Arkansas |
09/14/2005 6:01 AM Pacific Time
Got the new distribution panel yesterday afternoon. Hope to get it installed on the boat in the next couple of weeks and get the battery installed in the same time. Then I can test the depth finder (the thing I was most interested in installing in the first place) and see how the lights are.
I also got the Don Casey "Sailboat Electronics Simplified" book. Just flipped through it so far but it looks to be as good as the other books in that series.
Thanks for all the help. I may be posting some more questions on the cabin lights here in the next few weeks.
John |
Marshall Johnson
Alpharetta, GA
Boat Name: Santorini Baby
Model/Year: C-22/1985
Hull No. 13302
Hailing Port: AquaLand Marina, Lake Lanier, GA |
09/14/2005 7:01 AM Pacific Time
I installed the Catalina panel in my boat (133020 this spring. Relatively easy, just be sure to label everything as you remove it so you can put it back correctly and I found with the old wires that I need to trim and reconnect the electrical connections so a good crimping tool and an adequate supply of the connectors (got mine from Lowe's) will help. Turns out that the switches that did not work on my boat are more likely the wiring related so this fall I will probably replace all the hull wiring. Then step the mast at a later date to do the wires there. However the new panel looks better though I did have to slightly enlarge the hole for the panel in the fiberglass. So have a good fiberglass saw and a good mask! |
Marshall Johnson
Alpharetta, GA
Boat Name: Santorini Baby
Model/Year: C-22/1985
Hull No. 13302
Hailing Port: AquaLand Marina, Lake Lanier, GA |
09/14/2005 7:02 AM Pacific Time
That was (13302) "Santorini Baby" ,for some reason all the information is missing to the left. - Marshall. |
John Connor
Little Rock, AR
Boat Name: Weekender
Model/Year: C22 1982
Hull No. 11192
Hailing Port: Little Rock, Arkansas |
09/14/2005 5:25 PM Pacific Time
A couple more questions on this from me -
Why would I install a ground bus bar?
Can I just use any old copper strip lying around the house - or maybe melt a bunch of pennies??
Thanks,
John
BTW - I'm not really serious about the pennies -
but would that work??? |
Al Gearing
Burleson, Texas
Boat Name: Torch of Freedom
Model/Year: C-22 '76
Hull No. 6448
Hailing Port: Arlington YC |
09/15/2005 6:05 AM Pacific Time
A ground bus is nothing more than a convenient place to tie all of the return wires together. Anything will do, soldering them all together gets a bit aukward, if you don't have a big iron, hence a plate to screw them to is a way out. I like soldering to a 6-8 inch #10 wire, Spacing the joints so as not to loosen one when making another, and clamping between them with a pair of vise-gripes as a heat sink to isolate the joints. Of course you have to have the iron out every time you add something, that is why people go to a plate with a lot of holes to add as necessary. |
John Connor
Little Rock, AR
Boat Name: Weekender
Model/Year: C22 1982
Hull No. 11192
Hailing Port: Little Rock, Arkansas |
09/15/2005 8:05 AM Pacific Time
Thanks for the input. I had noticed the pictures of the bus bar that Dick had posted and thought that looked like a good way to handle that. I like your idea about the solder strip.
John |
John Connor
Little Rock, AR
Boat Name: Weekender
Model/Year: C22 1982
Hull No. 11192
Hailing Port: Little Rock, Arkansas |
10/03/2005 10:27 AM Pacific Time
Installed my new electrical panel yesterday. I did have to enlarge the hole slightly but everything went in great. I am going to rewire the entire boat this winter so I just cut all the wires and pulled the old panel out. Will be installing a bus bar this week to round out the start of the electrical upgrades.
Thanks to everyone for the help and the advise!!!
John |
David J. Pierce
Sunset, Louisiana
Boat Name: Little Miracles
Model/Year: 1985
Hull No. 12822
Hailing Port: Cypermort Point, Louisiana |
10/04/2005 5:37 AM Pacific Time
John,
I replaced my original fuse panel when I was refurbshing my C-22. I moved the panel to the Aft Port side of the table. This prevents it from being damaged by crew entering the compaionway, but also out of the bilge. I installed a cover plate over the hole where the panel was originally installed.
The original location is in danger of being ruined if the hull is breached or if a thru-hull leaks.
My boat had a thru-hull speed sensor which leaked while I was 10 miles out in the bay. Before I discovered the leak, salt water was sloshing around in the bilge. I did not have an automatic bilge pump. The back of the panel got wet and was ruined before I was able to pump the bilge and stop the leak. All of the indicator lights shorted out. |
Linda Hoffecker
Lancaster, PA
Boat Name: t/c
Model/Year: '82 Cat 22
Hull No. t/c
Hailing Port: Havre de Grace, MD |
10/05/2005 1:12 PM Pacific Time
John Connor:
Will you be posting photos of your rewiring project as you go along? Or do you have a site where I can find them?
I am interested in seeing the project for possibly doing my own boat.
Thanks.
Linda |
John Connor
Little Rock, AR
Boat Name: Weekender
Model/Year: C22 1982
Hull No. 11192
Hailing Port: Little Rock, Arkansas |
10/05/2005 6:19 PM Pacific Time
Sorry, I didn't take any pictures. Unfortunately, I'm not a prolific chronicler (bad spelling - I wish this thing had a spell check) anyway it was pretty easy.
First I unscrewed the old panel and after about 4 minutes of looking at it and stressing about the old connections and what I was gonna do with them, I decided to heck with it and used my crimper/cutters to cut the wires off. I am planning on a rewire project anyway and figured what the heck. By the way, I probably don't need to rewire I just like messing about in boats. Better than gambling, in my book, for throwing away money.
Anyway, I then used a Dremel to cut about a 1 inch piece off the top of the old original cutout location. I know what several folks have said about moving the panel location and they are probably right but I decided that this will do for a little while.
Then I dry fit the new panel in place and used a drill to put a pilot hole for the screw. Figured I should plug the thing in to make sure it works before I screw everything down (done that one to many times in my professional life) and because of the awkardness of working in that cramped little space, after dinking around with the battery cables finally got the thing plugged up flipped the switches and voila all lights are go.
It was pretty simple especially after everyone's help here on the board. What a great tool!!! |
Sean Madian
Portland, OR
Boat Name: Time Out
Model/Year: 1973
Hull No. CL 3839 FX
Hailing Port: Portland |
10/06/2005 5:11 AM Pacific Time
I'm confused: is there concern about the location of the original panel (starboard side near the hull just inside the companionway)? There would have to be a LOT of water sloshing in the boat combined with a knock down to get it wet, right? My current (newer) panel is near the floor backing up to the bilge near the battery (a horrible location for any number of reasons). I'm planning on yanking the original panel and moving the new panel up there. What am I missing? |
John Connor
Little Rock, AR
Boat Name: Weekender
Model/Year: C22 1982
Hull No. 11192
Hailing Port: Little Rock, Arkansas |
10/07/2005 10:55 AM Pacific Time
Most are talking about the port aft settee location near the winch / battery bilge that you describe. That is a terrible location for kicking / water / etc. But it's a pretty good location for the builder cause it cuts down on time / expense in building. If Catalina saves 20 minutes in build time that translates to real dollars.
John |
Sean Madian
Portland, OR
Boat Name: Time Out
Model/Year: 1973
Hull No. CL 3839 FX
Hailing Port: Portland |
10/08/2005 6:40 AM Pacific Time
Agreed John. It also gets everything near the batt(s) so the run to the bus part and switches is minimized. But it's horrible w/toes turning things on/off, visibility, etc. I just don't think I could find a worse location. I'm going to relocate mine this winter (and then God made winter so C-22 owners could do projects). I'm leaning towards the location of the original panel rear of the starboard seat near the storage access but I'm thinking of the port side near the settee. Neither is perfect but both are better than the current location. ;-) |
Joe Cockrell
Charleston, SC
Boat Name: Natural Selection
Model/Year: 1985
Hull No. 12936
Hailing Port: Charleston |
10/24/2005 9:56 AM Pacific Time
I just finished relocating my panel and I am very pleased with it. It's now located on aft end, port side of the recessed shelf. It's a dry site, easily visible, easlily accessible, and it's out of the way. I'm convinced that's where it should have been located at the factory. I have a main power switch and two West Marine panels mounted on oak board that is cut to fit. A brass piano hinge allows the panel board to open down for access to the wiring. There's no need to make a "box"; only two side need covering with wood. Cherry stain on oak matches the existing teak trim on the shelf.
I also brought in a new wire through the ceiling from the mast connector to the panel which serves new lights on the mast. That wire is almost completly hidden with a channel cover.
Joe
Natural Selection 12936 |
Carlos
Fajardo, PR
Boat Name: Perfect Time
Model/Year: Catalina 22' - 1971
Hull No. 474
Hailing Port: |
10/24/2005 11:01 AM Pacific Time
Joe, do you have some photos that we can get by email? The location sounds very nice. |
Bob Conway
Huber Heights, Ohio
Boat Name: Spindrift
Model/Year: C22/1979
Hull No. #8717
Hailing Port: Buck Creek, Ohio |
10/24/2005 2:05 PM Pacific Time
Ditto!! Pictures please. I'd like to see what you did.
It sounds great! |
Joe Cockrell
Charleston, SC
Boat Name: Natural Selection
Model/Year: 1985
Hull No. 12936
Hailing Port: Charleston |
10/24/2005 5:02 PM Pacific Time
Email me at [email protected] and provide your e-mail address. I'll send a few pics of the switch panel.
Joe
|
Sean Madian
Portland, OR
Boat Name: Time Out
Model/Year: 1973
Hull No. CL 3839 FX
Hailing Port: Portland |
11/26/2005 4:24 PM Pacific Time
I'm going to revive this one more time -- on the CD panel there are a set of labels: bow, deck, cabin, anchor, running and 3 accessory. I'm confused. "Deck" would the mast mounted deck lamp. Cabin are the interior lights. Fine so far. Anchor is, uh, the mast head light? Bow? Why would the bow light be on by itself? And running? To my thinking that would be the mast head, bow and stern lights. What am I missing here? I'm sure there was some logic to the labels... |
Bayard Gross
Greenwich, CT
Boat Name: Baby Blue
Model/Year: 1981
Hull No. 9911
Hailing Port: Greenwich, CT |
11/26/2005 5:11 PM Pacific Time
Bow should more appropriately read steaming. This is the forward facing light on the mast that is lighted only when under power and not when under sail alone.
Deck would be for lights on the spreaders. This, I think, is rare on a C-22, however, it could be for any exterior light for deck lumination.
Cabin should be for three lights inside: port, starboard, and v-berth all of which may have there own switch on their housing.
Anchor is the light at the top of the mast and only lighted when at anchor, not while underway.
Running is for the red and green light at the bow and a white light at the stern. These are on when under sail alone and when under power.
3 accessories: well, a light for your compass is a good place to start, then perhaps add your VHF radio, and then a depth sounder or a stereo.
|
Uwe Behrendt
Rutland Vermont
Boat Name: Joyful
Model/Year: 1977 C22
Hull No. 7200
Hailing Port: Plunder Bay Orwell VT |
11/27/2005 4:26 AM Pacific Time
There are several mods and electrical upgrades that have been done to JOYFUL
see the link It should help Lots of pics.
Uwe
http://www.askbj.com/users/joyful/Improvments/improvements.htm |
Sean Madian
Portland, OR
Boat Name: Time Out
Model/Year: 1973
Hull No. CL 3839 FX
Hailing Port: Portland |
11/27/2005 6:41 AM Pacific Time
Bayard -- Thanks. That explains it well and untangles another question in the process. Uwe -- Cool site. Great pics. Thank you both. |
