Patrick O'Brien
Colden, NY
Boat Name: Stardust
Model/Year: Cat 22 1977
Hull No. 6755
Hailing Port: Buffalo NY |
 01/19/2004 7:53 PM Pacific Time
Any suggestions or pointers (links) to repairing the winch mount to raise and lower the swing keel? The guy who delivered my boat, must have tightened the cable before driving it up here. Consequently, the fiberglass mount for the winch cracked after supporting the weight of the keel for 300 miles of NY's finest roads. Winch support not fractured, just weakened....step feels spongy when entering the cockpit. I have some ideas (fiberglass/wood support frame) but would defer to experience on this.
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Dick King
Melbourne, FL
Boat Name: Twilight Zone
Model/Year: Sport/2005
Hull No. 15546
Hailing Port: Melbourne, FL |
01/19/2004 9:04 PM Pacific Time
Patrick - I sounds as though the wood that forms the support for the winch has suffered water intrusion and is probably rotted. The proper way to repair it is to cut out the existing bad wood and replace it. The step area would then need to be reglassed. On Jagged Edge, the previous owner accomplished the repair. He also added a piece of 1x4 inch stainless plate (1/8 inch thick). It spreads the load of the two bolts that support the keel winch. No problems since. |
Patrick O'Brien
Colden, NY
Boat Name: Stardust
Model/Year: Cat 22 1977
Hull No. 6755
Hailing Port: Buffalo NY |
01/21/2004 6:53 PM Pacific Time
Dick,
Thanks for the input, but the winch support has no wood that I can see. It is mounted directly to the fiberglass. The area seems stressed from supporting the keel in transit,(rather than having the keel rest on the trailer support)and it also acts as the step to the cabin. I was thinking of 'boxing' the area with marine grade plywood or mahoghony and then 'glassing'; the snot out of it.
I appreciate your help and access to the collective wisdom available here. |
Jerry Ludgate
Pflugerville, TX
Boat Name: Seas The Day
Model/Year: 1975
Hull No. 5137
Hailing Port: storage unit in Pflugerville still! |
01/22/2004 5:49 AM Pacific Time
Patrick,
I had the same problem with #5137, only the glass had a large crack or tear in the port corner of the step where the winch is mounted. I am still in the process of restoring the whole boat, but I will share how I fixed this problem.
The wood that was mentioned that needs to be ground out and replaced is the coring in that area of the boat, and it is about 1/4" thick. This is covered by a thin layer of fiberglass underneath that will need to be ground away to give you access to the wood. Chisel out the wood (carefully), and cut a replacement to go in there. Glue it back with a mixture of epoxy thickened with colloidal silica. Glass that in with several layers of fiberglass, I used 3 layers that spanned the whole thing. Next comes the part where when fixing things, I intend to never have to re-fix them again, EVER! I cut a piece of 3/4" marine grade plywood to glue and fiberglass in place that covered the entire underside of that step. I rounded the outer edges for a smooth transition for the glass to wrap up the sides, and then made a fillet with the thickened epoxy to fill in fore and aft of the new wood. Then I glassed that in with I believe 5 layers of cloth, each successive layer slightly larger than the previous one as suggested in the West Systems guide. It's a little messy glassing from underneath, but the result is something that I am rather proud of. The fiberglass is transparent still, and there are no white spots showing poor cloth saturation.
Incidentally, I had a similar repair to the bow where the single bolt bow eye had been mistaken for a dock sensor/cushion and had been shoved right thru the hull. I am replacing it with the wood block from CD and just about have that job finished too. Working with fiberglass is more enjoyable than I thought it would be. Give it a try, it's not rocket science, and if you follow the directions in the manuals, your results will be fine.
Good Luck!
Jerry Ludgate |
Patrick O'Brien
Colden, NY
Boat Name: Stardust
Model/Year: Cat 22 1977
Hull No. 6755
Hailing Port: Buffalo NY |
01/25/2004 5:00 PM Pacific Time
Jerry,
ROFL!!! .......dock sensor/cushion.....very wry.
Thanks for the info on the glass job, I appreciate the input.
Feel more confident to repair the weak area. Still laughing over the Dock Sensor.... |
Don treble
memphis
Boat Name: catalina22
Model/Year: ?1989
Hull No. 8939
Hailing Port: gerenda lake,ms |
03/26/2004 5:50 PM Pacific Time
-all i have is the cat 22 the winch is gone and the plumbing is bad need any help at getting this all fixed |
Chip Ford
Marblehead, MA
Boat Name: Chip Ahoy
Model/Year: 1974-Swing Keel
Hull No. CTY032820374
Hailing Port: Marblehead, Mass. |
03/27/2004 4:40 AM Pacific Time
Don, I just restored everything from the keel up to the winch. For photos go to:
http://cltg.org/chip_ahoy/keel_winch.htm
http://cltg.org/chip_ahoy/chip_ahoy_7.htm
http://cltg.org/chip_ahoy/chip_ahoy_8.htm
Chip Ford --
Marblehead, Mass.
1974 C22 Swing Keel #3282 - "Chip Ahoy"
http://cltg.org/chip_ahoy/
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Matt Loeffler
Merced, Ca
Boat Name: E. C. Rider
Model/Year: Cat 25/1985
Hull No. 5411
Hailing Port: Lake Yosemite |
04/01/2010 6:08 AM Pacific Time
Don
I recently replaced my winch. Its simple. go to wall mart, or any place u choose and buy you a winch for a boat trailer. use or replace the two, zinc or stainless, bolts that hold it to the under side of the companion. it took me about 15 to 20 mins to do this. get some 3/8 stainless cable to attach to the keel and winch. you will need to measure to get the right length. As far as plumbing, there shouldn't be to much. |
Steven Butler
Galveston Tx
Boat Name:
Model/Year: 1975
Hull No. CTYH50200575
Hailing Port: Galveston |
04/01/2010 6:08 AM Pacific Time
Don
I recently replaced my winch. Its simple. go to wall mart, or any place u choose and buy you a winch for a boat trailer. use or replace the two, zinc or stainless, bolts that hold it to the under side of the companion. it took me about 15 to 20 mins to do this. get some 3/8 stainless cable to attach to the keel and winch. you will need to measure to get the right length. As far as plumbing, there shouldn't be to much. |
Erv Zimmerman
Anchor Bay Shores, Michigan
Boat Name: Adventuring
Model/Year: 1973
Hull No. 1787
Hailing Port: Anchor Bay, Lake St. Clair |
04/02/2010 1:36 AM Pacific Time
Keep in mind that the keel winch installed by Catalina has an integral brake mechanism that prevents the keel from free-falling under its own weight. Trailer winches do not have this brake. If the handle should slip out of your hand, the keel may free-fall causing the winch handle to spin rapidly. If you try to stop it, you can receive serious injury. If you don't stop it, the keel may cause damage when it reaches the full-down position. |
Lynn Buchanan
Nevada City, CA
Boat Name: SAILYNN
Model/Year: SWING 1984
Hull No. 11994
Hailing Port: SCOTTS FLAT LAKE, CA |
04/02/2010 11:18 AM Pacific Time
Don, I noticed in your post the hull number of your boat and the year do not match. Boats built in 1989 had a hull number starting with 14### or possibly 15### I believe. Check the left hand upper side of the transom just under the rub rail and there should be some letters and numbers (if they weren't painted over and filled in). When Catalina Yachts numbers got past four digits the numbers preceeding the last four numbers were dropped on the hull identification number that you would see on the transom and your boat title/registration form. I believe this was a result of the federal hull identification number system only had so many spaces which couldn't support a manufacture building over 9999 models of one boat. Usually the last numbers in the sequence indicate the month and year the boat was built. You can research the years and the numbers on the www. Catalina22.org website or call Catalina Yachts directly with the numbers from your boats transom and they will give you the correct information on the year and the full hull number. |
