jamie wheal
Mt. Airy, MD
Boat Name: Peggy-O
Model/Year: 1990
Hull No.
Hailing Port: Annapolis |
 04/25/2006 12:56 PM Pacific Time
Hey folks,
we've had our boat for three seasons now and figure it's high time to deal below the waterline. After reading all of these posts and browsing CD, I haven't got a straight sense of the cable replacement process--do you need to drop the keel , can it be done on a trailer, etc. and which of the assorted products on CD (turning ball, cable, hose, brass pipe, etc.) do you need for the preventative maintenance rebuild?
Thanks! |
Al Gearing
Burleson, Texas
Boat Name: Torch of Freedom
Model/Year: C-22 '76
Hull No. 6448
Hailing Port: Arlington YC |
04/26/2006 6:45 AM Pacific Time
It is a straight forward job, you will have to lower the keel far enough to get to the marine cleavis pin. Then it is just a matter of replacing it and for convinience pull the end of the new one up when you're pulling the old one out. There is room if you tape two together very carefully. At least I managed it once. Otherwise pull the old one out with a cord attached and pull the new one back up. Wind the winch carefully keeping tension on the cable, try and untwist any turns in it as it is fed in.
For what it's worth,
Al Ge |
Stefan Damstrom
Boat Name: Delfina sold!
Model/Year: C22mK2 / 1987
Hull No. 14306 sold :-(
Hailing Port: |
04/26/2006 8:00 AM Pacific Time
Here here...it took about 10-15 minutes with dinner on the stove even to do the job with the parts from CD. I have a MK2 like you and removing the hatch? to expose the keel winch makes things easy. I had to remove the winch as well because the cable was secured to the drum on the aft side. Still there is enough room with the boat on the trailer and old cable slacked to get needle nose pliers to undo the old cotter pin at the keel.
Worst thing you can do with the keel cable is do nothing. They evenutally go and the boat will likely sink as the keel flies forward unchecked and rips apart the keel box.
It's worth it,
Stefan |
jamie wheal
Mt. Airy, MD
Boat Name: Peggy-O
Model/Year: 1990
Hull No.
Hailing Port: Annapolis |
04/27/2006 9:48 AM Pacific Time
thanks for the input guys--if anyone has a step by step guide, and/or a parts list, it would be much appreciated! |
Dick King
Melbourne, FL
Boat Name: Twilight Zone
Model/Year: Sport/2005
Hull No. 15546
Hailing Port: Melbourne, FL |
04/28/2006 5:18 AM Pacific Time
Hi Jamie - Here is a procedure I wrote to do the job. I did it from memory, but I think it is pretty complete. http://chipford.com/cable_replace.htm As far as parts are concerned, you need a length of cable with an aircraft fork swaged on the lower end. If you can wait, I recommend you pull the old cable off first to make sure of the width of the jaw on the aircraft fork. I have noticed several that were not wide enough and had to be jammed onto the eye bolt screwed into the keel. The book calls for 7 x 19,3/16” x 10’ 0” cable W/Fork, SS. Any good rigger with a roller swaging machine should be able to build it for you. I recommend a 15 ft cable. If you hook something like a crab pot float, you can unwind the cable and get to it over the stern of the boat, without having to dive under the boat.
Send me your address and I will send you a diagram including all of the keel system parts with their Catalina Direct part nos.
Dick King
romeo tango kilo juliet romeo at bellsouth.net. |
jamie wheal
Mt. Airy, MD
Boat Name: Peggy-O
Model/Year: 1990
Hull No.
Hailing Port: Annapolis |
04/29/2006 6:00 AM Pacific Time
Thanks much for all the input,
I was planning on just ordering the CD parts--is their cable sized for the '87-95 boats?
Dick--my address is 107 harrison st. MT. airy MD 21771
Thanks very much for the instructions--they will keep a simple job simple!
Jamie |
