Andy Kohler Canton, GA
Boat Name: Good Times
Model/Year: 1989
Hull No. 14778
Hailing Port: Atlanta |
05/15/2006 10:45 AM Pacific Time
I am thinking of adding an inner forestay to my rig. (88-model with anchor locker at bow). I have a CDI roller furler with a 155 or 135, good for probably around 20 knots. Above that I like to use a storm sail -without having to change the sail on the furler. The additional stay would be a 1/8 inch wire 23ft long, clipped on to an eye (to be installed) on the foredeck behind the hatch for the anchor locker (about 20 inches from the bow) and hoisted by a nonstretch rope halyard (in place of the regular jibhalyard). On that stay I could fly any number of high cut hank-on storm jibs. (got the spinnaker halyard to raise and lower the sail)
Not sure about the sheeting angle from this position though, might have to go between the stays or inside the stays all together.
I pondered about an all wire stay permanently attached to the top of the mast and secured to the bottom of the mast when not in use. Would leave the mast more cluttered then I would like for a stay I probably use only a few times a year.
Any thoughts about or experiences with this type of set-up.
what are the pro/cons of a blade sail (dimensions??) vs a partially hoisted storm sail (say 80/80)
Andy K.
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Lance Jones Atlanta, GA
Boat Name: Kitty's Cat
Model/Year: 1988
Hull No. 622
Hailing Port: Lake Lanier, Aqualand Marina |
05/15/2006 11:05 AM Pacific Time
It would seem to me that the additional forestay would prevent proper tacking and jibing of your headsail. Personally, I don't think that is a good idea. With a furler, you can "reef" your jib to any size you want during high wind. |
David Torrisi Santa Clara, CA
Boat Name: Dumbo
Model/Year: 1975 C-22
Hull No. 4330
Hailing Port: Santa Clara |
05/15/2006 11:43 AM Pacific Time
I agree with Lance. You could use a removable inner forstay, but reinforcement of the deck would be required. You could buy or build something like the ATN Gale Sail (http://www.atninc.com/gale.html) if you really want a storm sail.
Now if you want to build a cutter rig... *that* would be cool!
David
http://p4.forumforfree.com/catalina22.html |
Andy Kohler Canton, GA
Boat Name: Good Times
Model/Year: 1989
Hull No. 14778
Hailing Port: Atlanta |
05/15/2006 12:39 PM Pacific Time
thanks for the coments;
I intented to have the extra stay 'clipped' on only as needed in heavy wind when I am not using the furler and take it off when not in use.
The 135 is o.k. furled down to about a 110, then its pretty much out of shape and still not high enough above the foredeck to stay out of the weather/water - hence the thought about an alternative.
The deck is very strong in that area, because it has the vertical support/bracing from the built in anchor locker but I certainly would reinforce it with a backing plate.
The while idea was to enable a quicker headsail change while on the water.
Still curious.
Andy |
Al Gearing Burleson, Texas
Boat Name: Torch of Freedom
Model/Year: C-22 '76
Hull No. 6448
Hailing Port: Arlington YC |
05/16/2006 10:05 AM Pacific Time
If you really want a sub-forestay I think it should be attached at the spreaders, which are half way up the mast. Then if the tack is put half between the base of the mast and the headstay tack, it will be parallel to the headstay, and the sheet point should come out about the same place. Alot of better boats use removable sub-forestays, usually on double spreader rigs. TORCH had three forestays, with the double spreader rig, the staysail stay was removable for easier tacking of the headsail. Then we stopped using the staysail. I lost the mast when a fitting broke on the subforestay. It was most helpful under such limited conditions, slightly off wind in a blow, that we just didn't seem to remember to use it.
For what it's worth,
Al Ge |
Al Gearing Burleson, Texas
Boat Name: Torch of Freedom
Model/Year: C-22 '76
Hull No. 6448
Hailing Port: Arlington YC |
05/16/2006 10:06 AM Pacific Time
Oops,---A lot of bigger---- not better-- |
Bayard Gross Greenwich, CT
Boat Name: Baby Blue
Model/Year: 1981
Hull No. 9911
Hailing Port: Greenwich, CT |
05/17/2006 6:49 PM Pacific Time
Andy:
I don’t know what you have for a furling 135%, but I have the furling Ullman 135% on a CDI furler and I have found I can still get good shape even at even less that storm jib size when reefing.
One must move the jib cars nearly all the way forward when reefing down like this because the jib clew moves forward and up as one reefs.
What about taking a reef in the main before the jib? That’s usually the best way to do things, although a little harder. However, putting in a decent main sail reefing system can make reefing the main a lot easier.
Take a look at my main reefing system at:
http://tinyurl.com/76ru6
and:
http://tinyurl.com/bhfzf
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Andy Kohler Canton, GA
Boat Name: Good Times
Model/Year: 1989
Hull No. 14778
Hailing Port: Atlanta |
05/18/2006 12:23 PM Pacific Time
Thanks to all for the comments;
Bayard, my 135 is a relative old sail with no foam or rope luff. It is probably time for a new one - it is not holding its shape after 3-4 turns.
I always reef the main first, have reefing lines led back to the cockpit. The storm jib was a measure to be concerned with after that.
Al, after looking at the boat and toying with some small sails from my Apollo, I decided against the extra stay bolted to the deck. Adding the stay behind the anchor locker really cuts down on the foot length - too much to even sheet in a jib with a 6ft foot closer than the forward lower stays.
I may experiment with a stay attached to a bridle from the forward deck cleats;
that will also keep it more parallel to the existing forestay. Next thought was oto use a sail with a wire luff and hoist it with a regular jib halyard.
It is all still work in progress;
I have not heard from the gremium about the pros/cons or dimensions of a blade sail. Anybody having experience with those sails??
Andy
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