Rod Sorenson Sacramento
Boat Name: Clyde
Model/Year: Capri 22, 1985
Hull No. 143
Hailing Port: Sacramento |
05/17/2006 10:17 AM Pacific Time
Can a Capri guy post here???? I recently purchased a 1985 Capri 22. I am new to boats of this size and I have a question.
In the back side of the mast there is a window where the main is bent on. On my boat this is about twelve inches above the boom. While this is a convenient position for stringing the main, it is very inconvenient for reefing and lowering the main, when the keys traversed the window, they want to fall out.
Is this just the way it was ment to be? Being an older boat, perhaps the mast has been replaced with a, not to exact, replacement.
Your response is apreciated. |
Bayard Gross Greenwich, CT
Boat Name: Baby Blue
Model/Year: 1981
Hull No. 9911
Hailing Port: Greenwich, CT |
05/17/2006 7:09 PM Pacific Time
Rod:
Wish I had a Capri22.
Nevertheless, call the keys slugs, and yea they do fall out of that slot in the mast unless you put in a sail stop above the slot.
The sail stop is a small aluminum cylinder that fits inside the sail groove and has a large knob that screws onto a threaded stud on the cylinder and by that generates tension to hold it onto the mast and just above the sail slot on the mast.
However, main sail jack lines and main sail tack reefing lines get hung up on the large knob of the sail stop and using the “boom stop” that Catalina Direct sells is preferable. This boom stop is a cylinder into which one inserts a pan head screw. The head of the screw holds the “boom stop” in place against the mast. The main sail jack line and tack reefing line will not get hung up on the head of this screw.
Please see an example on my boat at:
http://tinyurl.com/76ru6
sixth picture down
The boom stop that Catalina Direct sells:
http://tinyurl.com/n4cwh
Hope this is helpful.
|
Stuart Red Bank NJ
Boat Name: Across the Universe
Model/Year: 22/1985
Hull No. 13077
Hailing Port: Fair Haven, NJ |
05/18/2006 6:37 AM Pacific Time
I think what you are looking for is this:
C-22 MastGater Sail Track Gate
Product #: D2126
Our Price: $38.95
http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=1012
-Provides a transition across the mast track sail entrance slot.
-Allows sail slides to move past the entrance slot for reefing.
-Reef right down to the gooseneck from the security of the cockpit
-Prevents slides from falling out of the mast track when the sail is doused.
-Installs with 10-24 machine screws.
-Easily removed to stow the boom when its time to trailer.
-Set of 2 for C-22 includes drill and tap for easy installation.
Stuart |
Rod Sorenson Sacramento
Boat Name: Clyde
Model/Year: Capri 22, 1985
Hull No. 143
Hailing Port: Sacramento |
05/18/2006 10:45 AM Pacific Time
Thanks Bayard and Stuart,
These comments are just what I am looking for. Terminology corrections, well taken.
Rod |
Lynn Buchanan Nevada City, CA
Boat Name: SAILYNN
Model/Year: SWING 1984
Hull No. 11994
Hailing Port: SCOTTS FLAT LAKE, CA |
05/18/2006 7:30 PM Pacific Time
if you are not going to trailer sail, the mast gate is the way to go. if you trailer a lot, you will be putting in 10-20 screws everytine the boom needs to go and off of the mast. i trailer sail a lot so i don't use the mast gate, but if i was in dry storage or on the water for a long time, i would use the mast gates. |
Stuart Red Bank NJ
Boat Name: Across the Universe
Model/Year: 22/1985
Hull No. 13077
Hailing Port: Fair Haven, NJ |
05/23/2006 5:52 PM Pacific Time
Lynn,
why would 10-20 screws need to be taken out every time? The mast gate has 4 screws total. With mine I only have to unscrew 2 each time I put the boom on or take it off. I can see that the choice may not be as obvious if you trailer sail (where the sail stop could work) but if you launch once, or just a few times, a year the mast gate is definitely the way to go.
Stuart |
Lynn Buchanan Nevada City, CA
Boat Name: SAILYNN
Model/Year: SWING 1984
Hull No. 11994
Hailing Port: SCOTTS FLAT LAKE, CA |
05/28/2006 5:44 PM Pacific Time
Stuart, I was going by your post earlier which said "install 10-12 machine screws" I've never installed one and have only seen the pictures of two different styles. I believe another version (not CD) may have had more screws and was basically a piece of carpet threshold metal bent around the wider slot opening and screwed to the mast and costs you only a few dollars or could be free if you already have the material. The one CD sells $32.95 is a picture of a machined one with stainless steel rods that match the lip of the track and only shows four screws. |
Al Gearing Burleson, Texas
Boat Name: Torch of Freedom
Model/Year: C-22 '76
Hull No. 6448
Hailing Port: Arlington YC |
05/29/2006 4:26 AM Pacific Time
He was talking 4 ea. #10 screws that have 24 threads/inch it is shortened to 10-24, refering to the size of the machine screw. Not 10 to 20 screws.
Al Ge |
Bilbo Youngstown, Ohio
Boat Name: Sea Dog
Model/Year: Catalina 22 1987
Hull No. 13971
Hailing Port: Andover, Ohio |
05/29/2006 4:45 AM Pacific Time
Well guys,
I've been thinking aboutusing a mast gate here but for this season, I ended up using a sail slug stop. A good reason for not using the Sail stop is that they get sucked into the water faster than you can buy them. and i have alread lost two in as many actual months on the water but for about $8 I bought one from west maring which works well. Only thing I ended up doing is drilling a hole in it and tying a 1/8' nylon cord onto it so that it is not going to get pulled overboard again :(. Now I can easily remove the sail from the mast at the end of the day, I can single line reef from the cockpit and I have yet to have anything hang up on it. I think if I were leaving the main on the mast all the time, a mast gate would be the way to go.
~Bilbo
N.E. Ohio
13971 |
Paul David Melbourne Australia
Boat Name: Reflections
Model/Year: 1986
Hull No. 13369
Hailing Port: Melbourne Australia |
05/30/2006 5:45 PM Pacific Time
I'd like to have a real mast gate - something with a hinge on it. Open with a thumbscrew or two.
I use a sail stop, but the aluminum slug that the screw is fitted to was originally too fat for the mast slot opening, so I had to file it. In the end, I got lucky and had to force it in to the slot. The benefit of this is the slug is basically captive and can't fall out. If you lose a lot of them, consider getting a short piece of aluminum rod just a little bigger than the opening, then file the edges to just permit it to be inserted. Drill and tap for the screw and knurled fastener.
Paul |
Al Gearing Burleson, Texas
Boat Name: Torch of Freedom
Model/Year: C-22 '76
Hull No. 6448
Hailing Port: Arlington YC |
05/31/2006 5:29 AM Pacific Time
I was cheap and made my own gate covers and agree that it would be nice if I could find some #10-24 thumb screws, so that a screw driver is not neccessary to remove the gate cover. I did find that I only have to take off one side to get the slugs out. Maybe studs in the mast and then use the knurled nuts like the sail stops use. Just thought of that as I was writing, maybe I'll work on that. But dropping any of the those fasteners is a hazard.
Al Ge |
Lynn Buchanan Nevada City, CA
Boat Name: SAILYNN
Model/Year: SWING 1984
Hull No. 11994
Hailing Port: SCOTTS FLAT LAKE, CA |
06/01/2006 6:12 PM Pacific Time
Not being mechanical, that makes sense Al. I like the idea of tying a teather to those flying slug stops. You don't have to file or force them in the slot. The way to do it is with the mast down, slip it through the bottom end of the mast and slide it up. Of course that means the mast has to be down and any hardware in the way has to be removed. I take my mast down almost weekly so it's not a problem for me. |