Running Rigging

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Author Halyard Cleating?



Boat Name:

Model/Year:

Hull No.

Hailing Port:
02/11/2004 11:27 AM Pacific Time

Hey there Everybody!

I am thinking about updating the cleating system on my C22. I have been using the old cleats on the mast for my main and headsail halyards (ok, go ahead and laugh). I want to run them back to the cockpit. Obviously rope clutches are a good cleating selection. But I wonder if anybody is using clamcleats or camcleats or any other cheaper alternative to rope clutches. I am curious how well these will hold.

Any thoughts?

Robert
Time Out 10210
Dick King
Melbourne, FL

Boat Name: Twilight Zone

Model/Year: Sport/2005

Hull No. 15546

Hailing Port: Melbourne, FL
02/11/2004 1:59 PM Pacific Time

Since both halyards have to be fairly tight and should not unintentionaly slip or be released, I would advise against Clam cleats (they are too easy to release), or cam cleats (they are very tough on the outcore of braided halyards and difficult to release under load.)

Until I switched to clutches for convenience, I used jam cleats. The jam cleat has a v shaped opening on one side and a rounded opening on the other. Position the cleat with the rounded opening facing aft. You haul up the halyard while standing on the deck next to the cabin. Then you wrap the halyard around the rounded end of the cleat. Hold the halyard and grab it between the deck organizer and the cleat. Pull on halyard in that area and then pull on the part coming from the cleat. When it is tight enough, wrap the line around the forward v shaped end of the cleat. Then cleat it as you normally would .. I worked for me for years.
Russ Devans
Buffalo NY

Boat Name: N E Wind

Model/Year: C22 1981

Hull No. 10248

Hailing Port: Port Colborne, Ontario, Canada
02/18/2004 6:10 AM Pacific Time

what size line halyard can I use with the original existing mast head without changing anything. what is the reason for changing sheaves to go from cable to line. I know some of you have done this. I know some of you run line with the original masthead set up.
Dick King
Melbourne, FL

Boat Name: Twilight Zone

Model/Year: Sport/2005

Hull No. 15546

Hailing Port: Melbourne, FL
02/18/2004 8:29 AM Pacific Time

Russ - Many years ago, I got tired of getting stabbed by broken wires in the halyards. Since I had to change them anyway, I tried running double braid 1/4 inch line instead. I have never looked back. The lnes run over the original sheaves without any problems. I ordered the plastic sheaves from CD, but have never installed them.

By the way, I tried later using a 5/16 line for the genoa halyard, but it would bind too much in the mast head. I have changed out the genoa halyard a couple of times in 10 years, but it is a small price to pay to avoid those mean fish hooks.
Russ Devans
Buffalo NY

Boat Name: N E Wind

Model/Year: C22 1981

Hull No. 10248

Hailing Port: Port Colborne, Ontario, Canada
02/18/2004 9:13 AM Pacific Time

Dick thanks for the information . I'm going to go with the 1/4" line over the original sheaves. I want to be able to drop the for sail on the deck with a downhaul. I single hand alot and the longer haylard will let me douce the sail down tight on the deck and out of the wind.
Russ Devans
Buffalo NY

Boat Name: N E Wind

Model/Year: C22 1981

Hull No. 10248

Hailing Port: Port Colborne, Ontario, Canada
02/18/2004 9:20 AM Pacific Time

I also have cam-sleats on both my halyards and sheets. They work good in all types of wind. They hold verygood and are easy to release if you have to. I single hand alot and its the only way to go. You just have to keep them in good working order.
I will be replacing a couple on my boat this year they are 20 years old. The new cam cleats recommended and sold by CD are Harken 150
Dick King
Melbourne, FL

Boat Name: Twilight Zone

Model/Year: Sport/2005

Hull No. 15546

Hailing Port: Melbourne, FL
02/18/2004 11:58 AM Pacific Time

Russ - I have found that for sheets, Clam cleats are much gentler on the sheet than cam cleats and they cost about two thirds less. I have a vertical clam mounted on the coaming in line with the sheet as it comes off the winch. It is mounted on a teak block to align with the top of a three wrap stack on the winch. From the high side, I can sheet in, lay the sheet in the clam cleat and it is held. To release, I simply lift the end of the sheet and it is uncleated. No pulling or yanking to uncleat the sheet. If you can afford them, sheet stoppers are much kinder to your halyards.
Bill McMahon
Salt Spring Island, BC, Canada

Boat Name: Kahuna

Model/Year: Catalina 22 / 1981

Hull No. CTYH10009M81

Hailing Port: Ganges Harbour, Salt Spring Island, B.C., Canada
11/03/2012 2:35 PM Pacific Time

Hello....hope some of you are still out there. I am about to replace my existing wire/rope halyards with all line 1/4 " braided rope and I would like to use Lewmar D1 clutches. My idea is to install a single clutch in between the teak grab rail and the pop top edge on port and starboard sides. This would enable me to lead the halyards over the deck to either side of the opo top so I won't have tofiddle with them when I raise the pop top. I would feel most secure thru-bolting the clutches to the underside of the inside ceiling. Does anyone have any experience/red flags on this? Thanks. Love this resource.

Bill
C10009
paul osborne
Lima NY

Boat Name: Emy Lyn II

Model/Year: 1984

Hull No.

Hailing Port: Rochester
11/04/2012 5:40 AM Pacific Time

Hi Bill, I am not using that clutch but have done the same, as many have runnig lines aft. Yes, you are right, through bolt not just screws.
paul osborne
Lima NY

Boat Name: Emy Lyn II

Model/Year: 1984

Hull No.

Hailing Port: Rochester
11/04/2012 5:58 AM Pacific Time

If you handrail has 4 loops, goes the entire length of the top, you may want to cut the last one off. That is the last one to the aft. It gives you a lot more room for the clutch/jam system to mount and room t work.
Lynn Buchanan
Nevada City, CA

Boat Name: SAILYNN

Model/Year: SWING 1984

Hull No. 11994

Hailing Port: SCOTTS FLAT LAKE, CA
11/04/2012 10:54 AM Pacific Time

Hi Bill. Be sure you test run the lines back to the cockpit before drilling any holes. The ultimate end position depends on where you are leading from the mast step, then turning block and could be a different position on each side depending on how and where the forward turn comes from and if you are using a winch on the cabin top. On the older boats the hardware to the cockpit rigging was installed to the cockpit by the owners not the factory, so no two boats are alike in placement or brand/size of hardware. Normally your main halyard will lead from front of the mast, and your genoa halyard will lead from the back of the mast if you have external halyards. That is not a hard and fast rule because I just worked on a boat where both external halyards came down the port side of the mast to a double swivel at the port side base, to a double turning block and then to the port cockpit to a double clutch. A very unusal method, but cheap for minimum hardware costs. CD has a diagram in their catalog and maybe at their current website under running rigging which I find the cleanest and easiest method. It does require a little more money for hardware as opposed to the the cheap method I just described above. If you want to add a winch to either side of the cabin top you will most likely want to remove the handrails. If they were centered along the cabin top, chop off one or two loops depending on how far back they were mounted. Once you remove the handrails, use the port one to trace your cutline on the starboard one and then reverse the process, cut in a rough cut and file the curve down. Fill the extra holes left by shortening the handrails with sealer and a beauty ring/bolt with a acorn nut on the underside. BUT WAIT THERE'S MORE! Another method I've seen is to remove the handrail and install it on the poptop as far to the outside as you can get a good screw installation. When you pop the top, there is no interference with the running rigging and this method leaves all the room you need for running the rigging down either side of the cabin top. The holes left by the removed handrails can be filled with a beauty ring/bolt sealed and finished off on the inside with a acorn nut. If you have a pop top enclosure, the outside snaps on the cabin may have to be adjusted to the extra height of the handrails. Hope this helps, and if you can't find the CD diagram, let me know and I can email it to you. P.S. The Ganges port is my favorite destination up North when we trailer sail from CA.
 
 
Running Rigging
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