Noah Oden Dana Point, CA
Boat Name: Noah's Ark
Model/Year: 1976 C22
Hull No. 6588
Hailing Port: Dana Point, CA |
02/17/2004 2:29 PM Pacific Time
Hello,
I need to revarnish my 1976 sliding hatch wood rails. They actually leak too. The screws have been so tightened that they are splitting/cracking around several screws. They easily leak on two of them. I have been told to clean out and drill the holes and then epoxy in some wood dowels or the like. Then redrill new holes. I can do this, but I also wanted to know if there were new wood rails available some where like BoatUS or West Marine?
Also, the hatch makes a horrible squeak going forward and back. Is there a long term noise fix that anyone knows of? I'm wondering if it is because the wood is so old.
Thanks, |
Jerry Ludgate Pflugerville, TX
Boat Name: Seas The Day
Model/Year: 1975
Hull No. 5137
Hailing Port: storage unit in Pflugerville still! |
02/19/2004 7:19 PM Pacific Time
Noah,
If your sliding companionway is like mine was, when you remove the wood rails, you may find that the fiberglass has worn down to nothing. The flange that inserts into the wood railing's groove was separated from the rest of the hatch.
Just a thought...
Jerry |
Dave S. Alexandria, Minnesota
Boat Name: Zephyr
Model/Year: 1976 C22
Hull No. 5609
Hailing Port: Alexandria, Minnesota |
02/20/2004 5:45 AM Pacific Time
The "squeak" you hear is the forward edge of the hatch lid rubbing on the fiberglass poptop. When I refinished my rails and reinstalled them, I put some cork--about 1/16" thick--under each one (actually two layers under one side). My hatch now slides easily and silently. This may not be a "permanent fix", but it should last for several years before needing attention. Hope this helps. |
Noah Oden Dana Point, CA
Boat Name: Noah's Ark
Model/Year: 1976 C22
Hull No. 6588
Hailing Port: Dana Point, CA |
02/20/2004 5:09 PM Pacific Time
Thank you for the info.
I realized, after looking through my C22 Handbook, that Catalina Direct sells new hatch rails. Teak or plastic. I will uninstall mine and see how bad they are.
Thanks again. |
Mike Bracket Clinton Twp, MI
Boat Name: Gunsmoke
Model/Year: 1979
Hull No. 9150
Hailing Port: Lake St Clair MI |
02/20/2004 5:43 PM Pacific Time
Noah: I have had the same problems you describe. Initially to eliminate the screeching when sliding the hatch open, I removed the rails and filled the slot with epoxy. After it dried, I ran the rails through a table saw and set the slot about 3/16" higher than it was. The wood simple wore away and allowed the hatch to scrape on the poptop. A couple years later I made new rails because the screws were stripped out and the wooden plug had been done before and it was pulling out. I used a plain 2x4 and a table saw to make a new set of rails. Stained and varnished them. The hatch works much better and the wood has lasted for 3 years now. Someday I am going to make some out of aluminum and have it anodized. Use machine screws and some type of seal to keep the leaks out.
Good Luck
Mike |
Deb Smith Bloomington, Indiana
Boat Name: Catalina 22
Model/Year: 1977
Hull No. 7572
Hailing Port: |
05/15/2005 10:30 AM Pacific Time
I also have that awful squeeking when I slide my hatch. I have the teak rails off and refinished and ready to replace. I was thinking about some type of lubricant to put on the fiberglass where they rub together and squeel. Any ideas about what would be good, nonstaining, etc. I am considering vaseline, but it is petroleum based. I don't want anything water soluble of course. Other lubricants may stain. I don't have any cork and don't really know anything about cork. I would think cork would swell and break apart and be a real mess. Maybe there are different kinds?? Any ideas are appreciated. Thanks, Deb |
Ken Palmer Franklin, TN.
Boat Name: "Last Penny"
Model/Year: 1981
Hull No. 10475
Hailing Port: PPYC |
05/15/2005 12:31 PM Pacific Time
Deb, Go to a auto parts store and get the cork 1/16" inch thick. Cut the strips you need. This cork has rubber in it so it holds up well. Sail Coat will make the hatch close fast (too fast for me), but before you you use anything wait and see how easy it opens once the cork is in place. |
Al Gearing Burleson, Texas
Boat Name: Torch of Freedom
Model/Year: C-22/'76
Hull No. 6448
Hailing Port: Arlington YC |
05/16/2005 8:34 PM Pacific Time
I found that the hatch was broken across the front edge, the only thing that I found to help was to get a piece of that high desensity polyethene? or ? that is used for chair legs to stop them for chattering, and in woodcraft stores they sell it for putting on table saw fences to reduce friction. I found it hard to make stay, I finally cut a notch to keep it in place in the middle of the front lip.
On this boat it has a pop top and the hatch hangs over the top and when stepped on it breaks forward. No sure what I am going to do for that problem.
Al Ge |
Linda Hoffecker Lancaster, PA
Boat Name: t/c
Model/Year: '82 Cat 22
Hull No. t/c
Hailing Port: Havre de Grace, MD |
09/11/2005 8:26 AM Pacific Time
Hello all. If this is not where I can find wood refinishing answers, please direct me to proper heading. Thanks!
Anyhow, I took off my crib boards to refinish them, used the marine stripper and it worked ok, but not like I thought it would. Three times and still some varnish, so I got out the orbital sander and ground away. I never got to the really fine sandpaper as I thought it felt nice and smooth as was with the 60 and then, 100 grit.
I'd planned to put that Sikkens Cetol on them and when I went to West Marine, close to my boat's slip, the sales guy talked me into using this cleaner/brightener and then, he said to put on the Teak Oil and when it dried, to put on the Cetol. It sounded 'sort of ok' as the wood was really gray and weathered and seemed like it could use some oil. Then, with the Cetol, it'd seal the oil in,,,,,,but I have trepidations about it as it said nothing on the directions about doing that. So, I've decided to just put the teak oil on for the rest of the season and then, in the Spring, put another shot on. Long about mid summer, I thought I'd resand and then, put on the Cetol.....Now, after sanding, and finding pretty grain, a lot of it is darkened in the graining, and I am wondering if this is part of the graining or if it is dirt.?
I've already used the cleaner and brightener and it seemed to bleach out (a little bit) the wood and it looks pretty nice, but still has the dark areas.Do you think that I should sand some more? Or, just put the oil on and go sailing? I've put off doing this for so long and since we are haveing somewhat of a drought, the weather is perfect for this project, so..
And, another thing, since I have a very dry boat and not wanting to mess up that part of it, I didn't remove the rails or companionway sides and am working on it on the boat. Pits, but oh well. Figures that the cleaner and brightener says to not get it on the fibreglass.. Duh....so, I guess I'll skip that step. I was amazed at how fast the stripped teak dries after being hosed within an inch of its life, but I suppose that is what makes it the wood of choice ?? for boats; its density and restorative properties.
Sorry this is so long and dragged out, but I know I can find answers here.
Love this site.
Thanks.
Linda |
Al Gearing Burleson, Texas
Boat Name: Torch of Freedom
Model/Year: C-22 '76
Hull No. 6448
Hailing Port: Arlington YC |
09/12/2005 4:45 AM Pacific Time
Linda, I think that you are on the right track. To get all the dark, ingrained dirt out it will take a really throught sanding, which will not hurt the wood. But if you just use bleach in water, it will clean up pretty well, by not rinsing it all off, and leaving it in the sun a few hours will do wonders, and it will not hurt the gel coat. Then just continue with a light sanding and teak oil every few months. The key is to keep after it if you want it to look good, I just learn to like that shade of grey, saves a lot of work.
Al Ge |
Peter Stamford, CT
Boat Name: Au Contraire
Model/Year: Catalina 22 1986
Hull No. 13325
Hailing Port: Stamford |
09/12/2005 5:01 AM Pacific Time
FYI>
I bought the West Marine 3 step process and I got it to look great!
Then my problem was some of the oil got onto the fiberglass and that had to be removed.
Ok, I cleaned that up, and it looked great again. Then the teak started requiring more oil. I did that again, then cleaned the deck again. Whew!
Now, 3 months after starting this project, I have decided grey will look great again! |
Tony Pacaro Lansdale, PA
Boat Name: Provolone
Model/Year: Catalina 22, 1988
Hull No. 14733
Hailing Port: Quakertown, PA |
09/12/2005 5:44 AM Pacific Time
I refinished all the teak on my C22 last year. It looked awful when I started. I used the West Marine teak refinishing kit to strip the old finish and brighten the wood, then finished with a belt sander. I then used Sikkens Cetol to finsh the teak. It still looks fantastic after a year with no fading or graying. I did remove all the teak from the boat before I started the process. I plan to add one coat of Cetol annually to maintain the finish. |
Linda Hoffecker Lancaster, PA
Boat Name: t/c
Model/Year: '82 Cat 22
Hull No. t/c
Hailing Port: Havre de Grace, MD |
09/12/2005 6:57 AM Pacific Time
Thank you for your input..I will keep reading for any additional comments as they all make sense, but I love the warm glow that the Cetol gives however, w/out sanding out the dirt, I don't want to seal it in, so that is why I think that maybe just to slap on some oil at this point and next Spring sand some more and put on the Cetol.
Thanks for the bleach idea for the wood that is still on the boat. Why didn't I think of that as I do sometimes use it on the fibreglass? Am trying to protect the environment, but some people drink the stuff in their water, awful as it tastes. And, I don't think that kit from WM says that that product is biodegradable, either!
PS: How do you handle all the little spider cracks on the gelcoat? Just thought I'd throw that out, too. They drive me nuts. Thanks, again. |
Sean Madian Portland, OR
Boat Name: Time Out
Model/Year: 1973
Hull No. CL 3839 FX
Hailing Port: Portland |
09/12/2005 9:35 AM Pacific Time
I'd like to weigh in on the spider cracks. We have a '72 (#2485) and I've just gotten it out of the water for the winter only to really "see" the spider cracks for the first time. I assume they're mostly cosmetic but I'd sure feel better if I could fill and smooth them.
Along those same lines, what do people recommend for cleaning and brightening the deck, bulkheads, etc? |
Al Gearing Burleson, Texas
Boat Name: Torch of Freedom
Model/Year: C-22 '76
Hull No. 6448
Hailing Port: Arlington YC |
09/13/2005 5:57 AM Pacific Time
The spider cracks can be a problem, the best is to sand/grind them out, some times that may be to the glass. I just did that on #6448 which was bad on the front of the cabin. I then covered it with filled epoxy, as I did for the really bad spots, all over the boat. But I missed some, unfortunately and when I sprayed on the AlGrip linear polyurethane, which goes on water thin, and then the second coat in twenty minutes covers very nicely and gives a harder-than-a-bankers-heart finish. ThenI found that the cracks that I missed showed up like a sore thumb, but the saving grace was that by using a brush I could scrub it into the cracks and it covered pretty well. The point of all this is that maybe,if the cracks are not too bad, youmay get away with just scrubbing the thin paint into them. I would think that if you sand off the first coat and recoat it may do okay. No guarantees. I did not do the tread on the deck, just masked it off.
For what it's worth,
Al Ge |
Linda Hoffecker Lancaster, PA
Boat Name: t/c
Model/Year: '82 Cat 22
Hull No. t/c
Hailing Port: Havre de Grace, MD |
09/14/2005 7:39 AM Pacific Time
Al, thanks for the spider info...Not quite ready to do them, but the teak cribs are done for the season, now, and with Ophelia about to shed some of her wrath on MD, I just put the oil on them and we are heading down to put them on the boat. The orbital sander that I had and was faithful to me for about 25 years of pretty hard use, died, but not w/out a fight. Borrowed a palm sander and there are still some dirt streaks in the grain, so in the Spring, maybe a belt sander, another good cleaning and on goes the Cetol.
It is strange to see the doors looking so 'teaky' after having had them stripped and looking pretty as light wood, but not gray.
Ok, that's it until the electric gets more screwed up, then, I'll be back.
Thanks Al and all others who gave me some good ideas..Oh, the Clorox will go on the other wood, today.
Linda |
Fred Apstein Gabriola Is BC
Boat Name: Scruples
Model/Year: 1976
Hull No. 95
Hailing Port: Gabriola Is BC |
09/14/2005 8:48 AM Pacific Time
A good non staining lubricant for hatch slides is candle wax. Just rub the bottom of a candle (use a non coloured candle) on the slides. You have to redo it occaisionally, but it's not much of a chore.
Lubrication is no substitute for fixing a hatch that needs attention, but it will make that squeek go away. |
Hager Betsey & Patrick WI
Boat Name: Salty Dawg
Model/Year: Catalina 22
Hull No. 13707
Hailing Port: Lake DuBay |
11/05/2012 8:55 AM Pacific Time
On our C22 13707, on the aft section of the sliding hatch cover (companionway), there is a fiber glass piece with a handle and hasp attached. This is wood finished but is fiber glass. Is there replacement part available and/or can one buy one of wood? |
Peter South Daytona, Florida
Boat Name: (Working On A Name)
Model/Year: C-22, 1974
Hull No. 2679
Hailing Port: South Daytona, Florida |
11/05/2012 10:14 AM Pacific Time
You're referring to the weather board. Here's the link to Catalina Direct; the host of this forum:
http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=437&ParentCat=42
|
Aaron M Benham 33a Loomis Hights
Boat Name: Tidely-Idley: The never ending project
Model/Year: 1978 C22
Hull No. 8070
Hailing Port: |
11/05/2012 1:47 PM Pacific Time
If that is the piece you are looking for, I have a teak one from a 79 in good condition. |
Mark Holzmann Portland
Boat Name: Hawkwind
Model/Year: c36 1993
Hull No. Sail #1246
Hailing Port: Portland |
07/21/2017 1:02 PM Pacific Time
Screeching Companion Way Hatch? Many years back Graham Mackay posted a solution to a screeching companionway hatch sliding against the cabin top. I followed his instructions to the letter and it solved my problem.
New problem is I needed to buy a huge sheet of plastic 48" x92" to get (2) 1"x 72" x 1/16. So needless to say I have the ability to make a lot of strips. If you have a screeching hatch send me an email. I might be able to help you out!! holzie at gmail.co
**Edit: So I just spent another 20 bucks to have 44 odd strips cut, which means I have approx 18 sets left. Myself and 3 takers so far, Send 12 bucks to my paypal account and I mail to your home. No, I will not be quitting my day job, when gone they're gone, labor of love believe me. |