Maintenance

Catalina Direct Discussion Topics / Catalina 22 Discussion Area / Maintenance / Sliding entry hatch wood repair/replacement
 
 
Author Sliding entry hatch wood repair/replacement
Noah Oden
Dana Point, CA

Boat Name: Noah's Ark

Model/Year: 1976 C22

Hull No. 6588

Hailing Port: Dana Point, CA
02/17/2004 2:29 PM Pacific Time

Hello,

I need to revarnish my 1976 sliding hatch wood rails. They actually leak too. The screws have been so tightened that they are splitting/cracking around several screws. They easily leak on two of them. I have been told to clean out and drill the holes and then epoxy in some wood dowels or the like. Then redrill new holes. I can do this, but I also wanted to know if there were new wood rails available some where like BoatUS or West Marine?

Also, the hatch makes a horrible squeak going forward and back. Is there a long term noise fix that anyone knows of? I'm wondering if it is because the wood is so old.

Thanks,
Jerry Ludgate
Pflugerville, TX

Boat Name: Seas The Day

Model/Year: 1975

Hull No. 5137

Hailing Port: storage unit in Pflugerville still!
02/19/2004 7:19 PM Pacific Time

Noah,
If your sliding companionway is like mine was, when you remove the wood rails, you may find that the fiberglass has worn down to nothing. The flange that inserts into the wood railing's groove was separated from the rest of the hatch.

Just a thought...
Jerry
Dave S.
Alexandria, Minnesota

Boat Name: Zephyr

Model/Year: 1976 C22

Hull No. 5609

Hailing Port: Alexandria, Minnesota
02/20/2004 5:45 AM Pacific Time

The "squeak" you hear is the forward edge of the hatch lid rubbing on the fiberglass poptop. When I refinished my rails and reinstalled them, I put some cork--about 1/16" thick--under each one (actually two layers under one side). My hatch now slides easily and silently. This may not be a "permanent fix", but it should last for several years before needing attention. Hope this helps.
Noah Oden
Dana Point, CA

Boat Name: Noah's Ark

Model/Year: 1976 C22

Hull No. 6588

Hailing Port: Dana Point, CA
02/20/2004 5:09 PM Pacific Time

Thank you for the info.

I realized, after looking through my C22 Handbook, that Catalina Direct sells new hatch rails. Teak or plastic. I will uninstall mine and see how bad they are.

Thanks again.
Mike Bracket
Clinton Twp, MI

Boat Name: Gunsmoke

Model/Year: 1979

Hull No. 9150

Hailing Port: Lake St Clair MI
02/20/2004 5:43 PM Pacific Time

Noah: I have had the same problems you describe. Initially to eliminate the screeching when sliding the hatch open, I removed the rails and filled the slot with epoxy. After it dried, I ran the rails through a table saw and set the slot about 3/16" higher than it was. The wood simple wore away and allowed the hatch to scrape on the poptop. A couple years later I made new rails because the screws were stripped out and the wooden plug had been done before and it was pulling out. I used a plain 2x4 and a table saw to make a new set of rails. Stained and varnished them. The hatch works much better and the wood has lasted for 3 years now. Someday I am going to make some out of aluminum and have it anodized. Use machine screws and some type of seal to keep the leaks out.
Good Luck
Mike
Deb Smith
Bloomington, Indiana

Boat Name: Catalina 22

Model/Year: 1977

Hull No. 7572

Hailing Port:
05/15/2005 10:30 AM Pacific Time

I also have that awful squeeking when I slide my hatch. I have the teak rails off and refinished and ready to replace. I was thinking about some type of lubricant to put on the fiberglass where they rub together and squeel. Any ideas about what would be good, nonstaining, etc. I am considering vaseline, but it is petroleum based. I don't want anything water soluble of course. Other lubricants may stain. I don't have any cork and don't really know anything about cork. I would think cork would swell and break apart and be a real mess. Maybe there are different kinds?? Any ideas are appreciated. Thanks, Deb
Ken Palmer
Franklin, TN.

Boat Name: "Last Penny"

Model/Year: 1981

Hull No. 10475

Hailing Port: PPYC
05/15/2005 12:31 PM Pacific Time

Deb, Go to a auto parts store and get the cork 1/16" inch thick. Cut the strips you need. This cork has rubber in it so it holds up well. Sail Coat will make the hatch close fast (too fast for me), but before you you use anything wait and see how easy it opens once the cork is in place.
Al Gearing
Burleson, Texas

Boat Name: Torch of Freedom

Model/Year: C-22/'76

Hull No. 6448

Hailing Port: Arlington YC
05/16/2005 8:34 PM Pacific Time

I found that the hatch was broken across the front edge, the only thing that I found to help was to get a piece of that high desensity polyethene? or ? that is used for chair legs to stop them for chattering, and in woodcraft stores they sell it for putting on table saw fences to reduce friction. I found it hard to make stay, I finally cut a notch to keep it in place in the middle of the front lip.
On this boat it has a pop top and the hatch hangs over the top and when stepped on it breaks forward. No sure what I am going to do for that problem.
Al Ge
Linda Hoffecker
Lancaster, PA

Boat Name: t/c

Model/Year: '82 Cat 22

Hull No. t/c

Hailing Port: Havre de Grace, MD
09/11/2005 8:26 AM Pacific Time

Hello all. If this is not where I can find wood refinishing answers, please direct me to proper heading. Thanks!
Anyhow, I took off my crib boards to refinish them, used the marine stripper and it worked ok, but not like I thought it would. Three times and still some varnish, so I got out the orbital sander and ground away. I never got to the really fine sandpaper as I thought it felt nice and smooth as was with the 60 and then, 100 grit.
I'd planned to put that Sikkens Cetol on them and when I went to West Marine, close to my boat's slip, the sales guy talked me into using this cleaner/brightener and then, he said to put on the Teak Oil and when it dried, to put on the Cetol. It sounded 'sort of ok' as the wood was really gray and weathered and seemed like it could use some oil. Then, with the Cetol, it'd seal the oil in,,,,,,but I have trepidations about it as it said nothing on the directions about doing that. So, I've decided to just put the teak oil on for the rest of the season and then, in the Spring, put another shot on. Long about mid summer, I thought I'd resand and then, put on the Cetol.....Now, after sanding, and finding pretty grain, a lot of it is darkened in the graining, and I am wondering if this is part of the graining or if it is dirt.?
I've already used the cleaner and brightener and it seemed to bleach out (a little bit) the wood and it looks pretty nice, but still has the dark areas.Do you think that I should sand some more? Or, just put the oil on and go sailing? I've put off doing this for so long and since we are haveing somewhat of a drought, the weather is perfect for this project, so..
And, another thing, since I have a very dry boat and not wanting to mess up that part of it, I didn't remove the rails or companionway sides and am working on it on the boat. Pits, but oh well. Figures that the cleaner and brightener says to not get it on the fibreglass.. Duh....so, I guess I'll skip that step. I was amazed at how fast the stripped teak dries after being hosed within an inch of its life, but I suppose that is what makes it the wood of choice ?? for boats; its density and restorative properties.
Sorry this is so long and dragged out, but I know I can find answers here.
Love this site.
Thanks.
Linda
Al Gearing
Burleson, Texas

Boat Name: Torch of Freedom

Model/Year: C-22 '76

Hull No. 6448

Hailing Port: Arlington YC
09/12/2005 4:45 AM Pacific Time

Linda, I think that you are on the right track. To get all the dark, ingrained dirt out it will take a really throught sanding, which will not hurt the wood. But if you just use bleach in water, it will clean up pretty well, by not rinsing it all off, and leaving it in the sun a few hours will do wonders, and it will not hurt the gel coat. Then just continue with a light sanding and teak oil every few months. The key is to keep after it if you want it to look good, I just learn to like that shade of grey, saves a lot of work.
Al Ge
Peter
Stamford, CT

Boat Name: Au Contraire

Model/Year: Catalina 22 1986

Hull No. 13325

Hailing Port: Stamford
09/12/2005 5:01 AM Pacific Time

FYI>
I bought the West Marine 3 step process and I got it to look great!
Then my problem was some of the oil got onto the fiberglass and that had to be removed.
Ok, I cleaned that up, and it looked great again. Then the teak started requiring more oil. I did that again, then cleaned the deck again. Whew!
Now, 3 months after starting this project, I have decided grey will look great again!
Tony Pacaro
Lansdale, PA

Boat Name: Provolone

Model/Year: Catalina 22, 1988

Hull No. 14733

Hailing Port: Quakertown, PA
09/12/2005 5:44 AM Pacific Time

I refinished all the teak on my C22 last year. It looked awful when I started. I used the West Marine teak refinishing kit to strip the old finish and brighten the wood, then finished with a belt sander. I then used Sikkens Cetol to finsh the teak. It still looks fantastic after a year with no fading or graying. I did remove all the teak from the boat before I started the process. I plan to add one coat of Cetol annually to maintain the finish.
Linda Hoffecker
Lancaster, PA

Boat Name: t/c

Model/Year: '82 Cat 22

Hull No. t/c

Hailing Port: Havre de Grace, MD
09/12/2005 6:57 AM Pacific Time

Thank you for your input..I will keep reading for any additional comments as they all make sense, but I love the warm glow that the Cetol gives however, w/out sanding out the dirt, I don't want to seal it in, so that is why I think that maybe just to slap on some oil at this point and next Spring sand some more and put on the Cetol.

Thanks for the bleach idea for the wood that is still on the boat. Why didn't I think of that as I do sometimes use it on the fibreglass? Am trying to protect the environment, but some people drink the stuff in their water, awful as it tastes. And, I don't think that kit from WM says that that product is biodegradable, either!

PS: How do you handle all the little spider cracks on the gelcoat? Just thought I'd throw that out, too. They drive me nuts. Thanks, again.
Sean Madian
Portland, OR

Boat Name: Time Out

Model/Year: 1973

Hull No. CL 3839 FX

Hailing Port: Portland
09/12/2005 9:35 AM Pacific Time

I'd like to weigh in on the spider cracks. We have a '72 (#2485) and I've just gotten it out of the water for the winter only to really "see" the spider cracks for the first time. I assume they're mostly cosmetic but I'd sure feel better if I could fill and smooth them.

Along those same lines, what do people recommend for cleaning and brightening the deck, bulkheads, etc?
Al Gearing
Burleson, Texas

Boat Name: Torch of Freedom

Model/Year: C-22 '76

Hull No. 6448

Hailing Port: Arlington YC
09/13/2005 5:57 AM Pacific Time

The spider cracks can be a problem, the best is to sand/grind them out, some times that may be to the glass. I just did that on #6448 which was bad on the front of the cabin. I then covered it with filled epoxy, as I did for the really bad spots, all over the boat. But I missed some, unfortunately and when I sprayed on the AlGrip linear polyurethane, which goes on water thin, and then the second coat in twenty minutes covers very nicely and gives a harder-than-a-bankers-heart finish. ThenI found that the cracks that I missed showed up like a sore thumb, but the saving grace was that by using a brush I could scrub it into the cracks and it covered pretty well. The point of all this is that maybe,if the cracks are not too bad, youmay get away with just scrubbing the thin paint into them. I would think that if you sand off the first coat and recoat it may do okay. No guarantees. I did not do the tread on the deck, just masked it off.
For what it's worth,
Al Ge
Linda Hoffecker
Lancaster, PA

Boat Name: t/c

Model/Year: '82 Cat 22

Hull No. t/c

Hailing Port: Havre de Grace, MD
09/14/2005 7:39 AM Pacific Time

Al, thanks for the spider info...Not quite ready to do them, but the teak cribs are done for the season, now, and with Ophelia about to shed some of her wrath on MD, I just put the oil on them and we are heading down to put them on the boat. The orbital sander that I had and was faithful to me for about 25 years of pretty hard use, died, but not w/out a fight. Borrowed a palm sander and there are still some dirt streaks in the grain, so in the Spring, maybe a belt sander, another good cleaning and on goes the Cetol.
It is strange to see the doors looking so 'teaky' after having had them stripped and looking pretty as light wood, but not gray.
Ok, that's it until the electric gets more screwed up, then, I'll be back.
Thanks Al and all others who gave me some good ideas..Oh, the Clorox will go on the other wood, today.
Linda
Fred Apstein
Gabriola Is BC

Boat Name: Scruples

Model/Year: 1976

Hull No. 95

Hailing Port: Gabriola Is BC
09/14/2005 8:48 AM Pacific Time

A good non staining lubricant for hatch slides is candle wax. Just rub the bottom of a candle (use a non coloured candle) on the slides. You have to redo it occaisionally, but it's not much of a chore.

Lubrication is no substitute for fixing a hatch that needs attention, but it will make that squeek go away.
Hager Betsey & Patrick
WI

Boat Name: Salty Dawg

Model/Year: Catalina 22

Hull No. 13707

Hailing Port: Lake DuBay
11/05/2012 8:55 AM Pacific Time

On our C22 13707, on the aft section of the sliding hatch cover (companionway), there is a fiber glass piece with a handle and hasp attached. This is wood finished but is fiber glass. Is there replacement part available and/or can one buy one of wood?
Peter
South Daytona, Florida

Boat Name: (Working On A Name)

Model/Year: C-22, 1974

Hull No. 2679

Hailing Port: South Daytona, Florida
11/05/2012 10:14 AM Pacific Time

You're referring to the weather board. Here's the link to Catalina Direct; the host of this forum:
http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=437&ParentCat=42
Aaron M Benham
33a Loomis Hights

Boat Name: Tidely-Idley: The never ending project

Model/Year: 1978 C22

Hull No. 8070

Hailing Port:
11/05/2012 1:47 PM Pacific Time

If that is the piece you are looking for, I have a teak one from a 79 in good condition.
Mark Holzmann
Portland

Boat Name: Hawkwind

Model/Year: c36 1993

Hull No. Sail #1246

Hailing Port: Portland
07/21/2017 1:02 PM Pacific Time

Screeching Companion Way Hatch? Many years back Graham Mackay posted a solution to a screeching companionway hatch sliding against the cabin top. I followed his instructions to the letter and it solved my problem.
New problem is I needed to buy a huge sheet of plastic 48" x92" to get (2) 1"x 72" x 1/16. So needless to say I have the ability to make a lot of strips. If you have a screeching hatch send me an email. I might be able to help you out!! holzie at gmail.co
**Edit: So I just spent another 20 bucks to have 44 odd strips cut, which means I have approx 18 sets left. Myself and 3 takers so far, Send 12 bucks to my paypal account and I mail to your home. No, I will not be quitting my day job, when gone they're gone, labor of love believe me.
 
 
Maintenance
Catalina Direct Discussion Topics / Catalina 22 Discussion Area / Maintenance / Sliding entry hatch wood repair/replacement