Graham Jones
Brisbane, Queensland (Australia)
Boat Name: Bullwinkle
Model/Year: Boomaroo 22
Hull No. dont know yet...
Hailing Port: Brisbane |
 01/14/2007 3:39 PM Pacific Time
Hi there,
I have not found a specific topic on this problem.
Can anyone provide their solution and experience to removing the surface corrosion on wires, though the whole bundle, so that they can be soldered.
I have done a little research and heard of a product called "Tinners Fluid" which is an acid to dip the wires in. Another yacht forum did not recommend using this but did not provide an alternative.
I have managed to sand off much of the normal green surface corrosion and get some partial success but not ideal. In this case it was my masthead light connection at the mast step - I did not want to replace the whole wire up the mast but the corrosion had migrated up the wire an unknown distance. The wire was performing OK - its just getting a good soldered connection is my issue.
Any magic solutions out there?
thanks. |
Al Gearing
Burleson, Texas
Boat Name: Torch of Freedom
Model/Year: C-22/'76
Hull No. 6448
Hailing Port: Arlington YC |
01/15/2007 5:04 AM Pacific Time
Graham,
The forum was correct that you should not use acid flux on copper because it will not be totally removed and will or can continue to eat away on the wires. There is rosin flux that you can use on copper wires which does not have the lingering/continuing effect that acid flux does.
Getting all the corrosion out of stranded copper wire is difficult. Note that if you cannot cut back the insulation to clean copper, the insulation must be porous enough to have allowed water to get into it and, I hate to say it, should be replaced. However, if you wish to 'poor boy it' you can get a good joint with crimped on lugs. You must have a lug that fits the wire, not a large lug for a small wire. Then be sure that you have a crimper that will put a dimple in the lug, not just squeezing it flat. The reason that this will work is that with a close fitting lug and a dimpler, you are assured the the metal will be 'coined'/upset/cold molded or whatever you can think of as forcing the metal to be squeezed to a different shape which makes a good 'gas tight' connection between the wire and the lug. Then dip the lug in transmission fluid before you put it on, many of us used tranny fluid with good success on running lights, by dippng them in it before inserting in them in the socket, it isn't a total cure all but it sure seemed to help keep them working for a year or more compared to a few months.
For what it's worth,
Al Ge |
R. C. Luiken
Milford, DE
Boat Name: Ricochet
Model/Year: C-22 Swing Keel/1986
Hull No. 13560
Hailing Port: Milford, DE/St. Michaels, MD |
01/15/2007 5:07 AM Pacific Time
Graham, there are a number of products on the market that are used to clean copper pots, chafing dishes etc. They are found here in super markets in the cleaning section. Most require a water rinse after use. I would use my wife's hair dryer, I don't have enough to need a dryer, to make certain you have removed all moisture. I would also apply liquid insulation to the fitting.
To me the biggest question is how far has the corrosion spread. In the long run I think replacement is a better option. |
Greg Guenther
Belleville, IL
Boat Name: Magnificat
Model/Year: 1970
Hull No. 473
Hailing Port: Belleville, IL |
01/15/2007 5:59 AM Pacific Time
Graham,
I don't recommend soldering any connections in a marine environment. The reason for this is that at the end of the solder, you have a stiff joint and a very limited area for flexibility so that if there is movement in the wires they will immediately start to stress right at the end of the solder joint and begin breaking. Another reason is that you have different types of metal all joined together and are just begging for galvanic corrosion to take place in the joint.
Al is right about the crimped connection. That is the only way to go. Another way to help keep water out of those joints is to fill the connector with vaseline or a waterproof grease. I go for complete replacement. If you do any cruising and depend on your battery for extended periods, the corroded wire is probably robbing you of amps and battery life. Once wire starts to corrode there is no good way to stop it. Bite the bullet and put in a new harness.
Greg |
Graham Jones
Brisbane, Queensland (Australia)
Boat Name: Bullwinkle
Model/Year: Boomaroo 22
Hull No. dont know yet...
Hailing Port: Brisbane |
01/15/2007 2:42 PM Pacific Time
Thanks for your help everyone.
I think I will replace the mast wiring and the mast step connector, which is I had to solder since the crimp lugs had deteriorated badly.
Glad I bought a trailer sailer - the mast is easy to get to!
I will do my best to stop any exposure of the insulation.
Also, can someone explain what transmission fluid does? I thought it was corrosive (to paint anyway) |
Al Gearing
Burleson, Texas
Boat Name: Torch of Freedom
Model/Year: C-22/'76
Hull No. 6448
Hailing Port: Arlington YC |
01/16/2007 5:54 AM Pacific Time
Transmission fluid (TF) is is highly detergent. I think it acts like baking soda, or soap, to stop the corrosion. Thirty years ago they were selling round pieces of felt soaked in TF to put around battery posts to stop corrosion at the terminals.
For what it's worth,
Al Ge |
