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Scott
Portland, OR
Boat Name: Promiseland
Model/Year: C22 Swing Keel/1985
Hull No. 12982
Hailing Port: Tomahawk Bay, Portland OR |
 01/29/2007 1:15 PM Pacific Time
I have cut away the skin and removed all the rottern core material I discovered in the deck under my mast. (Which turned out to be most of the deck over the cabin). This resulted in the removing of the location where the mast step plate bolts to the deck. I'm going to replace the removed rotten core with thickened epoxy and patch the large area of cut out skin with thin layers of epoxy and glass fabric. (Note that the old skin is not re-usable thanks to my lack of experieince with a skill saw).
My question is, how do I mould the epoxy at the location where the mast step plate bolts to the deck? The boat is on my trailer in a shop, and I'm affraid that if I use a level to plumb the area of the deck where the mast bolts on the area won't be level when the boat sits in the water resulting in my mast sticking up in a peculiar direction. On boats that are in the water, is the mast step plate level from aft to forward or is the mast slightly angled aft or forward?
I can level the boat side to side on the trailer by adjusting the tire pressures, but I don't know what to level forward to aft to get the boat in the same postion it would be if it were in the water. Does someone know this, or could someone check a boat that is in the water?
Thanks!!
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Stan Hullett
Littleton CO
Boat Name: Hanky Panky
Model/Year: 1979 C-25
Hull No.
Hailing Port: Chatfield State Park |
01/29/2007 2:11 PM Pacific Time
Scott, you can level the boat on the trailer fore and aft with the tounge jack, measureing from the waterline to the floor, front and rear to get equal distances. The mast step should then be leveled side to side and fore and aft, your rigging will keep the mast centered side to side and at what ever rake you want fore and aft.
Stan |
Stan Hullett
Littleton CO
Boat Name: Hanky Panky
Model/Year: 1979 C-25
Hull No.
Hailing Port: Chatfield State Park |
01/29/2007 3:15 PM Pacific Time
This is of course assuming the floor is level also, if its not level, use a string level fore and aft under the boat and measure down to that. |
Bilbo
Youngstown, Ohio
Boat Name: Sea Dog
Model/Year: Catalina 22 1987
Hull No. 13971
Hailing Port: Andover, Ohio |
01/30/2007 5:36 AM Pacific Time
"On boats that are in the water, is the mast step plate level from aft to forward or is the mast slightly angled aft or forward?"
The plate probably supposed to be pretty much level fore-aft. BUT the image here att the section "TUNING YOUR MAST"
http://www.catalina22.org/manuals/mnl77/manl77.htm
really looks as if it's angled down towards the front. That would make sense for allowing water to run off quicker.
The mast is at a certain vertical position (or not) because the shrouds and stays are adjusted to make it so. The bolt that holds the mast to that plate does not level it, nor does the plate. It just anchors the base of the mast to a fixed location.
In the water, the boat 'should' be level at the waterline. Bootstripe or whatever you may have down there.
But on my boat, the whole boat sits about two inches low in the back because of the weight of the motor, fuel and battery. This makes my mast appear to have a slight angle (A rake) back.
See:
http://www.northsailsod.com/class/catalina22/catalina22_tuning.html
So, I would probaly mold the shape of the cabin area so that water will roll off it's back away from the mast plate forward. If you had a really good friend with a C-22, you could actually take the cabin roof and use it for a mold to make a fiberglass model for your boat. But that would be unusual to be able to do.
Hope that this helps. |
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