Steve Ott
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Boat Name: Catalina 22 Swing Keel
Model/Year: 1977
Hull No. 6798
Hailing Port: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada |
 01/12/2008 9:39 PM Pacific Time
Hi all.
I have a new boat to me (1977 #6798 swing), it has 2 sheared off keel bolts, one missing one with a rusted hole (salty) and 1 stripped. All in all not the greatest. To replace the weldments is a heckuva lotta work from what I read on this forum. Some go from the top, some from the bottom. Has anyone considered drilling right through the hull and putting a slightly larger bolt through and a nut on the inside? Is this possible at all? As I have no idea what's on the inside so this could be a crazy idea but I was just wondering. And if you do go from the inside (for either plan), what has to be removed/cut to make access? Thanks, Steve |
Ken G. Brown
Boat Name:
Model/Year: '88 Swing Keel
Hull No. #14764
Hailing Port: Leduc, Alberta, Canada |
01/12/2008 11:44 PM Pacific Time
Here are a couple links to pics that might help to see what you are dealing with:
http://sports.webshots.com/photo/1116319891047309321xCNvnb
http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/album/91994466lfqUdg
Ken |
Steve Ott
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Boat Name: Catalina 22 Swing Keel
Model/Year: 1977
Hull No. 6798
Hailing Port: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada |
01/13/2008 8:30 AM Pacific Time
That drawing does help. It sure looks like one could drill right through the weldments to the topside and run a 3/8" SS bolt and then put a nut and washer on the top just like the keel bolts in a full keeled boat.
You might have to grind the topside flat so that the washer and nut would sit flush and then there's the minor problem of sealing the nut but it sure seems like it would work. Somebody must have tried it already?
Any comments on the idea? Thanks, Steve |
R. C. Luiken
Milford, DE
Boat Name: Ricochet
Model/Year: C-22 Swing Keel/1986
Hull No. 13560
Hailing Port: Milford, DE/St. Michaels, MD |
01/14/2008 4:42 AM Pacific Time
Steve: drilling the weldments by hand from below is virtually impossible. This is due to the fact that you need to drill slowly, with very little pressure. Stainless is very hard and you will chew up bits like you would not believe. I tried to do it about 3 years ago. Sears finally got fed up with their money back guarantee on easy outs, or more properly their answer to easy outs.
I worked at it for two days. In two hours I had completed the job from the top.
The port side is more difficult because you are working in a confined space. I ground off the fiberglass to expose the weldment backing plate. Using a drift punch I drove the weldment from the bottom into the interior. To replace the weldment from above I put down a layer of fiberglass mesh and resin in the bottom of the weldment hole, set the weldment in position and then went outside and put the hanger bracket in position and inserted and tightened the bolt to make certain the weldment was aligned properly. Then back inside the boat to apply additional layers of mesh and resin to finish off the job. That literally took about 2 hours to complete.
If you have any questions just ask. |
Steve Ott
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Boat Name: Catalina 22 Swing Keel
Model/Year: 1977
Hull No. 6798
Hailing Port: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada |
01/15/2008 7:35 PM Pacific Time
That sounds encouraging. Did you take any pictures that you could pass on? Did you have to cut the floor out to get down to where you grind, or just start grinding? How far down was the top of metal plate?
My other question as above, do you think one could just drill right through the weldment and out the top and just use a long bolt and nut? I guess your back to what you said in that it'd be real tough to drill through the 2 sheared off bolts I have. Might it be possible do you think? |
Steve Ott
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Boat Name: Catalina 22 Swing Keel
Model/Year: 1977
Hull No. 6798
Hailing Port: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada |
01/15/2008 7:50 PM Pacific Time
Oh, and how did you cover up the holes in the floor afterwards?
And thanks for the input. |
R. C. Luiken
Milford, DE
Boat Name: Ricochet
Model/Year: C-22 Swing Keel/1986
Hull No. 13560
Hailing Port: Milford, DE/St. Michaels, MD |
01/16/2008 5:38 AM Pacific Time
Steve: I did not take any pictures.
I got to thinking after I wrote my message about the early versions. Ricochet is an 86 model and there is a hole in the sole, 2X6", with a cover over it which provides access to the starboard side weldments. I don't remember what the configuration of the floor is on your version.
The fiberglass covering over the weldment was about 3/8 to 1/2 inch thick. Not very neatly done, I will add.
I guess you could cut or drill a hole in your floor close to the size of what ever you would use to grind the fiberglass. I used a Dremel tool with a disk to grind off the fiberglass.
There are plates made out of plastic the have small prongs on the back which could be used as a cover. I know that auto supply stores carry them to cover up holes left in your car when you remove a piece of gear and need to cover a hole. I wish I could remember where I have seen them, but I believe they are available in ovals that are about 1X2"
As far a drilling out the weldment tube all the way through and using a bolt and nut is concerned, I would be very careful. The wall of the tube is not very thick. Any wander of your bit is going to make that wall even thinner. You are putting another hole in your boat below the water line. You still have to get to the bolt through the floor to apply the nut.
By the way the weldment plate is about 1 1/4X3/4". As a tip for doing this job I used th forward edge of the keel trunk as a reference point. I measured the distance from that to the center of the weldment hole and transdferred that to the interior minus 1/4" as my grinding point. When I broke through to the plate I was about 2 eylashes off from the center of it.
Keep us up to date on your decision and progress. |
Steve Ott
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Boat Name: Catalina 22 Swing Keel
Model/Year: 1977
Hull No. 6798
Hailing Port: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada |
01/17/2008 4:41 PM Pacific Time
That's great help. Thanks a lot. One more question, you said there was an access port on yours on the starboard side, was there one on the port side also? |
R. C. Luiken
Milford, DE
Boat Name: Ricochet
Model/Year: C-22 Swing Keel/1986
Hull No. 13560
Hailing Port: Milford, DE/St. Michaels, MD |
01/18/2008 8:52 AM Pacific Time
Access to the port side is gained under the forward seat on the port side. The weldments are in the vicinity of the keel lock-down bolt. The weldments are located just outboard of the keel trunk on either side of it. |
Eddie Austerlitz
Glastonbury, Ct
Boat Name: Cripple Creek
Model/Year: 1987
Hull No.
Hailing Port: Manatee Florida |
11/25/2008 9:36 AM Pacific Time
I've exposed the weldment plate and hit the bottom bolt upwards with a punch and hammer, it won't budge. Just how hard to I have to hit it? |
tom duffy
san ramon, ca.
Boat Name: sunshine
Model/Year: 1987
Hull No. 13852
Hailing Port: sf bay |
11/26/2008 10:01 AM Pacific Time
when i replaced a weldment it popped right out, but i was advised that it might be frozen in place and the solution was a small drill bit and drill around the perimeter of the weldment from beneath in several locations to help release it. |
