John
Boat Name:
Model/Year:
Hull No.
Hailing Port: Southampton UK |
01/19/2009 11:13 AM Pacific Time
Hi all,
My windows are now ready to go back into my Jaguar 22 (the UK version of the C22) and I intend to fit
them usind a non setting butly rubber called Arbomast BR between the
out hull and the frame.
The question I have is as follows....
The blots go through the inner and outer hulls and there is a gap
between the two. As I tighten the bolts the gap will start to close
BUT should I run a seam of sealant between the two surfaces ie inner
and out hull or leave it so any water ingress can simply drain down
into the bilges and not into the seating area.
OR
seal the gap between the inner and outer hull with GRP filler?
Any helpful advice or opinions would be really appreciated.
Many Thanks
John
|
Peter South Daytona, Florida
Boat Name: (Working On A Name)
Model/Year: C-22, 1974
Hull No. 2679
Hailing Port: South Daytona, Florida |
01/19/2009 12:27 PM Pacific Time
Hi John,
I need to do the same thing and have had the same questions your asking. I’m inclined to use a sealant (something that stays flexible) between the liner and coach roof. I’ve wondered where the water goes that gets between the inner and outer layers. I had my answer when I saw a cross section of the window and side deck. As you know, the side deck has a ¼ inch plywood core, which is exposed to the open area between the two liners. So, the water that gets in there is soaked up by the plywood. Not good over the long haul. Can the windows leak enough to eventually allow the side deck core to rot, I don’t know. The 86 and later boats have different windows and that area is sealed. I’d be interested in other’s thoughts. |
Robert Donehoo Duluth Ga
Boat Name: Shady Deal
Model/Year: Catalina 22 1979
Hull No. 8940
Hailing Port: Lake Lanier Ga |
01/19/2009 1:19 PM Pacific Time
For what its worth. I bought a 79 model a few years ago with all windows leaking. I removed all the windows and ordered the new stripping and spacing.
I filled the space with 1/4" lattice strips brushed with west epoxy. I sunk the lattice
about 1/8" deeper than the opening and filled the groove left with epoxy filler.
After I put it all back together using silicon to seal the outside frame to the cabin top --------well--------they don't leak nearly as bad. The water that does come in drips into the shelves. The important thing is that it doesn't leak into the deck--------at least not from the windows. But that falls under another discussion heading. |
Joe Novello Newport, Oregon
Boat Name: Tenderly
Model/Year: 1977
Hull No. 7259
Hailing Port: Newport, Oregon |
01/20/2009 5:30 PM Pacific Time
I have a '77 and had terribly leaky windows. I used the CD kit and re-set the windows per instructions. I left the space between the liner and the cabin open. The re-seal kit worked great and now I have completely dry bilges, even after four inch a day rain here in the NorthWest. I'm not worried about the plywood core as no more water is getting into the boat through the windows.
My two cents worth. |
Mike Bracket Clinton Twp, MI
Boat Name: Gunsmoke
Model/Year: 1979
Hull No. 9150
Hailing Port: Lake St Clair MI |
01/20/2009 6:34 PM Pacific Time
well here is my 2 cents....
I have tried to fill the gap between the liner and the deck around the windows with a caulk. It is real hard to get it clean in the crack so the caulk doesnt stick. Really an exercise in futility. If you get a good seal around the aluminum frame to the deck house, you wont get any water into the inside of the boat. The failure mode is usually one of two. If the frame to deck house is leaking, you will see water in the cabin light lens that is over the shelf (pre 84 or so). If you get water pooling inside the cabin on the settee, it is coming from a bad seal between the glass and the frame.
In my experience, getting the frame to deck seal is relatively easy and can be done every few years without much hassle. The seal between the glass and the frame is much harder to get right and takes a LOT more 'discussion' to get it done. And then you may not get it right and will have to do it over again. |
Pat Noonan Fairhope, Al
Boat Name: Blue Dog
Model/Year: ?
Hull No. ?
Hailing Port: Fairhope, Al |
04/04/2009 4:09 AM Pacific Time
Am removing the windows/frames entirely and replacing with lexan cut to shape and bolted through the outer/inner liner with boat caulk as a sealer. This worked well for my Columbia 8.7. and following the KISS principle. |
Will Nichols Portland, Texas
Boat Name:
Model/Year: Catalina 22 / 1976
Hull No.
Hailing Port: Corpus Christi |
03/01/2010 12:05 PM Pacific Time
Any idea where I may be able to obtain a starboard aft window for my Catalina 22 1976?
|
Ryan Graham Douglasville, Ga.
Boat Name: Luana Cordelia
Model/Year: C22 1978
Hull No. 8587
Hailing Port: Douglasville, Ga (on the hard) |
03/27/2010 10:13 PM Pacific Time
I just compleated this project and from years of working on aircraft and sealing panels and windows here is what I did. Clean the area really well with alcohol. After, you have installed the window and it is tightened. Take masking tape and run it 1/4 in from the window. Run the masking tape slowly round the corners the same way make it very pretty!!! Now tape the should be at least 1" but if your new at this or messy run layers out to 2 or 3" away to protect the cabin. Now tape the window the same right up to the edge. Now run the sealant around the area you have masked off and smoth it with your finger. The edges of the sealant should be feathered very fine right to the edge of the tape but thick in the middle. If you were to cut the sealant and look at it, it would be wedge shaped. Peel the tape in the direction away from the sealant, once it looks nice and is still wet.
If you are having trouble bending the masking tape around corners do the following. Use 1 inch tape and build it out to make it wider. Use a good 8 to 12 in piece use one hand to stick the tape down while you control the direction with the other. If you still have trouble use painters tape (blue) it bends nicely. |
Aaron M Benham 33a Loomis Hights
Boat Name: Tidely-Idley: The never ending project
Model/Year: 1978 C22
Hull No. 8070
Hailing Port: |
03/28/2010 11:48 AM Pacific Time
Hi Will, do you need the frame, the glass or both? |
Craig Burlette St Louis MO
Boat Name: Toujours ete'
Model/Year: C22 / 1974
Hull No.
Hailing Port: Lake Saint Louis MO |
03/29/2010 6:26 AM Pacific Time
John
I replaced one of my windows several years back using butyl rubber. It does a great job as it does not get hard over time. Additionally butyl rubber will not attack the plastic layer between the panes of glass, the C22 uses safety glass, and turn it cloudy as a silicone based product can do. I like the idea of taping off the window frame and cabin side to help control where the sealant goes, butyl rubber is very messy to work with! However for a good permanent seal it has to go under the window flange, not just around the outside as was previously mentioned. I did try and work some of the rubber up between the liner and the outer hull, but once again the butyl rubber is such a mess to work with it is hard to do a neat job.
Craig
C22 Toujours ete' |
Hans Schweikert Perkiomenville, PA
Boat Name:
Model/Year: Catalina 22/ 1981
Hull No. 10197
Hailing Port: Lake Nockamixon |
05/22/2013 1:20 PM Pacific Time
I just got done re-installing my last window on my 1982 C22. The job was a bit more involved than I first imagined, but it worked out. My windows came out pretty easily, needing only a little coaxing with a spackle blade to break the 'seal' formed by the old goop. Most of the time was spent removing said goop, getting the frames spic and span. Removing old silicon is the worst. I bought CD's Window rebuild kit, and found that the Dow Corning 795 tube of silicon supplied IS NOT a sufficient amount to do this job. Luckily, I checked the tube BEFORE starting window 3. You can't run out in the middle of a window. Keep the rubber channel that goes around the edge of the glass somewhat tight to avoid bulges. Crazy glue worked nicely to join the two ends, something completely unaddressed in CD's instructions. Once window is rebuilt, dry fit window to work out any problems. Mask the boat with blue tape 1/16" or 1/8" beyond the edge of frame. Apply generous amount of the 3M 4200 around window frame, and align it in place with pressure while someone inside boat screws retainer back on. Keep plenty of dry junk wash clothes handy, along with some acetone. This stuff is messy! I bought a whole box of latex gloves so I could keep peeling them as they got goop on them. Got to "Chip Ahoy" website for some good pictures and insight. He had the right idea: send out the frames to be powder coated. I wanted to get back to sailing so bad that I reinstalled ugly frames. Good luck |
Lynn Buchanan Nevada City, CA
Boat Name: SAILYNN
Model/Year: SWING 1984
Hull No. 11994
Hailing Port: SCOTTS FLAT LAKE, CA |
05/25/2013 12:29 PM Pacific Time
Hans why didn't you use butyl tape which isn't messy at all and never hardens or looses it's seal properties? That 3M 4200 goop is so messy and a pain to get off years from now. We use butyl tape when sealing windows and attaching things to the deck that need a waterproof seal. So much easier than goop.! Just a suggestion for future projects. |