Rich Reisner Fayston, VT
Boat Name: Meant 2 Be
Model/Year: C-22 1985
Hull No. 13049
Hailing Port: Charlotte, VT |
03/13/2004 12:31 PM Pacific Time
What is the best thing to use to refinish all the teak on my C22? |
Mathew Zanze Sutter Creek, CA
Boat Name: Knot On Call
Model/Year: Former C-22 Now C-250
Hull No. 66
Hailing Port: Sutter Creek, California |
03/13/2004 1:57 PM Pacific Time
Remove all teak. Use varnish remover, wire brush, fine grit sandpaper, lots of work and three coats of Cetrol Light. |
Bill Woodland, California
Boat Name: Easy Touch
Model/Year: C 22 / 1988
Hull No. 14514
Hailing Port: Lake Berryessa |
03/15/2004 6:09 PM Pacific Time
Sorry to bring this up again but I think I have used teak oil for the last time - I just washed about a gallon of black soot from my teak. I am tired of oiling it and having it turn black in a month. Anyone with experience in varnishing teak? Recommendations on product, prep time and service life? I am open to all suggestions. |
Al Gearing Burleson, Texas
Boat Name: Torch of Freedom
Model/Year: C-22/'76
Hull No. 6448
Hailing Port: Arlington YC |
03/19/2004 10:05 PM Pacific Time
Gee, guys, I think teak oil or, I use tung oil, I think it's the same thing, and haven't had the problems that you talk about. One thing, do you wash off your boat and bright work before you sail? That I think would help a lot, Iknow it is a bit of a hassel, but bushing it done with plain water makes sailing in a clean boat. I had a 35' boat in LA harbor and it was a 'must do'. The first crew there would take the hose and brush and go to work, it would be dry by the time we finished rigging.
I don't think varnish is easier and would last any longer. If you do varnish you should plan on keeping it covered and you should wash it off too. At least that is what I think,
For what it's worth, Al Ge |
Kelley Shelley Susanville, CA.
Boat Name: Kelley's Girl
Model/Year: C-22/1981
Hull No. 10790
Hailing Port: Eagle Lake |
03/21/2004 9:15 AM Pacific Time
I just use the 50/50 mixture of linseed oil and turpentine that the catalina general handbook suggests. It's not all polished looking but it gives me more time to sail and not polishing by bright work. |
Dan Plank Cullman, AL
Boat Name: Half Fast
Model/Year: C-22 / 1989
Hull No. 14855
Hailing Port: Guntersville, AL |
03/28/2004 5:29 AM Pacific Time
I just finished my teak yesterday. I found this product called TeakGuard at www.marinestore.com. I bought a kit for $32 and it has everything in it you need...cleaner, bronze wool, foam applicator brushes and this new synthetic treatment. In about 5 hours I have all my teak looking like new. They say that the treatment lasts for a whole season because it has UV inhibitors in it. We shall see. All I know for sure is that my teak looks new now. The products are also water soluble so they won't hurt the environment. It also won't stain the boat so you don't have to remove all the teak. I left it on. Of course I got some of the treatment on the fiberglass but it wipes up easily. It does have some pigment in it but a little soap and water takes it right off. So far, I'm sold on it. I hope it lasts as long as they say. |
Martin Henry Moore, Oklahoma
Boat Name: Madness
Model/Year: 1989
Hull No. 14953
Hailing Port: Lake Thunderbird |
06/01/2004 6:54 PM Pacific Time
I removed all the teak on the companion way and refinished it - it appears a waxy substains was used between the wood and boat. What should I use to replace it silicone? Let me know your thoughts, thanks. |
Jimmy Lotufo New Jersey
Boat Name: brisey_h
Model/Year: C-22 1984
Hull No. 12275
Hailing Port: Alki Beach |
06/02/2004 5:24 AM Pacific Time
I have a question...
My cat22 has teak coming and needs attention, should I consider taking it off the boat or can I refinish it on the boat?
It is held in place by screws which are covered by matching teak plugs, but I do not know if by remove the coming I would damage the plugs.
Comments please! |
Alan Chillers Cocoa Beach
Boat Name: Lo" Key
Model/Year: 22 catalina/1984
Hull No. 12227
Hailing Port: Space Coast |
06/02/2004 5:51 PM Pacific Time
can you loosen the nut from inside and tap the screw from inside and get the plug to come out? |
Jimmy Lotufo New Jersey
Boat Name: brisey_h
Model/Year: C-22 1984
Hull No. 12275
Hailing Port: Alki Beach |
06/03/2004 5:34 AM Pacific Time
Keith, I did not even think of that! I will check that out. Thanks for the feedback.
Jimmy
|
Al Gearing Burleson, Texas
Boat Name: Torch of Freedom
Model/Year: C-22 '76
Hull No. 6448
Hailing Port: Arlington YC |
06/03/2004 11:58 PM Pacific Time
You cannot salvage a plug over a screw. To take the plug out, screw a screw into it to remove it, take out the screw and replace the plug when you finish. The problem is you have to refinish the plug, so I would finish the teak in place if it is not too bad. I have put the teak back on with finishing washers under oval screw heads, it is not as nice but the only way I have found to get a 'finished' look. One boat in our club the craftsman who owns it, makes sure that all the slot head screws are lined up, a nice touch.
Al Ge |
Mike Allgood
Boat Name: Family Circus
Model/Year: 1988
Hull No. 14427
Hailing Port: Murfreesboro, TN |
06/04/2004 6:07 AM Pacific Time
I'm in the process of refinishing my teak trim. I chissled out the plugs with the plade of a flat head screw driver. Defender.com has teak plugs in various sizes. I agree that the plugs will need to be finished to match the trim. I plan on applying a few coats of varnish to the plugs before installation and then add an additional coat or two after installation. |
Joseph Schuler Princeton, NJ
Boat Name: Cats' Feet
Model/Year: 1971
Hull No. K26
Hailing Port: Raritan Bay, NJ; RYC |
06/04/2004 7:22 AM Pacific Time
Mike,
Don't waste your time with varnishing the teak bungs/plugs before installation. The plugs will be longer than the hole you are putting them into and you will have to trim them flush. Apply glue to the bung, tap it into the hole to cover the screwhead, and after the glue has set, take a small saw or better yet a chisel and trim the bung to a little longer than flush with the surrounding surface. Then use some sandpaper to sand it perfectly flush with the surrounding surface. Then apply lots of varnish.
Joseph |
Bob Endicott Fleet 77- Ft. Walton Beach, FL
Boat Name: Tequila Sunset
Model/Year: 1985
Hull No. 12759
Hailing Port: Ft. Walton Beach, FL |
06/04/2004 3:44 PM Pacific Time
As an alternative, what I did on Tequila Sunset's handrails was epoxy the screws in place, THEN install new plugs, sand and finish (8 coats of Pettit Ultra-Gold polyurethane varnish). I bedded them down with Life-Caulk polysulfide sealant and future refinishing will be simplified by not having to access the screw head.
I will also state that, in my opinion, your choice of finish will not have nearly the effect on longevity as keeping it covered! We have a sunbrella cabin cover which keeps the Florida sun off the handrails, hatch slides and hatchboards when we aren't sailing. I did the teak in '96 and it is just now starting to show signs of needing touch up. I really enjoyed the teak project (I did all the exterior teak off the boat except the coaming box rings and the companionway threshhold), but I wouldn't want to do it every year ;^). Good luck with yours.
Fair winds,
Bob Endicott
Fleet 77
|
Jim Fletcher Weare, N.H.
Boat Name: Sweet Misery
Model/Year: Catalina 22 1988
Hull No. 14319
Hailing Port: |
06/05/2004 2:33 AM Pacific Time
I refinished my teak with the three step cleaner, brightener, and then the teak oil FOR THE LAST TIME! It does not even last a season. The black soot or mildew seams to take over in a couple of months. I ran in to a person in Tampa Florida in March and he just does boat bright work full time in the local yacht clubs. He uses CETOL. It looks great and he says it lasts. So I have removed, washed, brushed and sanded all the teak from my 87 C22 and put three coats of Cetol. It looks like new and many members of my yacht club have just bought the Cetol and are going to refinish their teak. My hope is that according to the experts I might only have to touch it up once every couple of years. My teak work refinish has been the talk of the club this spring. Cetol makes a clear and also a light teak color. I used the light on all the teak, three coats and only used up a little over 1/2 a quart. |
Jimmy Lotufo New Jersey
Boat Name: brisey_h
Model/Year: C-22 1984
Hull No. 12275
Hailing Port: Alki Beach |
06/05/2004 8:36 AM Pacific Time
all of my teak on OLDE BOURBON is finished with CETOL, the PO had done a great job, and recomends that I keep using it as it does hold up well. I do not have sunbruella covers for the handrails etc... the cetol has held up great! I plan on using it again.
|
Donovan Walker Douglass Ks
Boat Name: Spring Fling
Model/Year: Catalina 22 1982
Hull No. CTYH1301M82K
Hailing Port: Trailer |
09/26/2013 5:03 AM Pacific Time
Hello this looks like a pretty old thread but I was wondering if anyone has any pics of any of their woodwork using the various products? trying to decide which direction to go with mine.... some 35 years ago I used a product called Golden Glow on the teak on a ski boat I had & I really like the results but can't find it anywhere guessing it's no longer available.... thanks for any input. |