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Reggie Keith
Houston, TX
Boat Name:
Model/Year:
Hull No. 1803
Hailing Port: Galveston, TX |
 10/24/2011 10:05 AM Pacific Time
I have a problem with water leakage around the keel lock down bolt. The boat has been out of the water for over 10-years, just had it repainted, new keel, new keel hardware, etc., etc... Questions:
Can I take the lock down bolt out with the boat in the water?
Presently I can see the nut in the side of the trunk. Is this OK? What holds the nut in place?
Should I apply a coating of sealent to the treads of the lock down bolt and screw it in? Of course this assumes I will not use the lock down bolt in the furture.
Thanks |
gregg kuthe
Kalamazoo
Boat Name: Summer Breeze
Model/Year: 309 2007
Hull No. 92
Hailing Port: South Haven,MI |
10/24/2011 5:29 PM Pacific Time
My 1976 has a similar problem. I think it's a result of grounding with the bolt tightened. If yours is really just leakage between the nut and bolt, I suggest pipe thread tape.
In my case, the fiberglass resin has separated from the outer surface of the nut and the leakage is actually coming from around the nut and not through the threads between the nut and bolt. Also in my case, the hole happens to be below the waterline, so make any repairs relatively quick.
Since I'm more of a cruiser than a racer, I'm pretty sure I'm just going to glass over the hole from the outside and forget about it. |
Bill Parsons
Gulf Breeze, FL
Boat Name: Liki Tiki
Model/Year: C-22/1976
Hull No. 6095
Hailing Port: Pensacola Beach, FL |
10/24/2011 5:29 PM Pacific Time
My 1976 has a similar problem. I think it's a result of grounding with the bolt tightened. If yours is really just leakage between the nut and bolt, I suggest pipe thread tape.
In my case, the fiberglass resin has separated from the outer surface of the nut and the leakage is actually coming from around the nut and not through the threads between the nut and bolt. Also in my case, the hole happens to be below the waterline, so make any repairs relatively quick.
Since I'm more of a cruiser than a racer, I'm pretty sure I'm just going to glass over the hole from the outside and forget about it. |
Mike Bracket
Clinton Twp, MI
Boat Name: Gunsmoke
Model/Year: 1979
Hull No. 9150
Hailing Port: Lake St Clair MI |
10/25/2011 5:55 PM Pacific Time
the most USUAL source of leaks in this area is not the bolt to nut area but the flange/nut to trunk wall. As Bill pointed out, with the lock bolt tightened, if you ground the keel or forget to loosen the bolt when you crank it up, you flex that bolt. it doesnt take much to break the fiberglass and resin 'seal' and you get a leak.
the hole is (should be) about 4-5 inches above the water line when the boat is sitting at the dock in calm water. when you are sailing (heeled over), the bolt hole is under water and subject to water intrusion.
Not a hard leak to fix but pretty tedious, working the fiberglass and resin in that small compartment hanging in the top upside down etc.
if you have the keel out, glassing over it from below is a viable solution.
I repaired mine in about 1993 and havent had a lock down bolt in it since....
Mike |
Reggie Keith
Houston, TX
Boat Name:
Model/Year:
Hull No. 1803
Hailing Port: Galveston, TX |
10/26/2011 6:00 AM Pacific Time
Thanks guys this is great. I just had the boat completely repainted (looks brand new!), but it has been over 10 years since it was in the water & I forgot to have them check the inside. I did try the thread tape and this did not help (great suggestion though) so I am going to try glassing on the inside. I think I will keep the bolt operational even though I really never use it.
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