Hull / Keel / Rudder / Tiller

Catalina Direct Discussion Topics / Catalina 22 Discussion Area / Hull / Keel / Rudder / Tiller / bottom cleaning & painting
 
 
Author bottom cleaning & painting



Boat Name:

Model/Year:

Hull No.

Hailing Port:
04/03/2004 12:19 PM Pacific Time

My bottom (of the boat!) is looking pretty brown. I powerwashed it but it still has stains on it. Is it advisable to sand it ?Do you paint it? If so -with what?

Bill Dobbins
"Maria Elena"
Lk. Hopatcong, NJ
Michael Smalter
Webster, NY

Boat Name: Marrakesh

Model/Year: 1986

Hull No. 13645

Hailing Port: Rochester, NY
04/03/2004 6:39 PM Pacific Time

Do you keep the boat in the water , or trailer sail it? If you keep it in the water, you should paint it. You can use bottom cleaner to get the brown stain off.

I'd ask your local marina what paint is best to use. In the Great Lakes, we like VC-17, but it is make for fresh or brackish water. The warmer the water, the more copper/toxicity you need to keep the growth off.
Jim Seal
Marshfield, MA

Boat Name: The Cure

Model/Year: 1991 Catalina-22

Hull No. CTHY520GB191

Hailing Port: Duxbury, MA
04/06/2004 6:54 AM Pacific Time

I'm a novice at bottom painting, and wanted advice on how you paint the sections of the hull (on a trailered boat) where the trailer rollers are located.
I have a 1990 wing keel C-22.
I can't slide the boat fore or aft on the trailer because of all the weight on the wing keel (I'd never get the wing back where it belongs), and I don't know how you'd raise the boat vertically off the trailer to paint these spots. Help!
Mary Jo
Pierre, SD

Boat Name: Windependent

Model/Year: C22

Hull No. 9458

Hailing Port: Lake Oahe
04/06/2004 2:21 PM Pacific Time

What product get's the brown crud off? Last time I did the bottom I sanded it. That was no fun.

Thanks!



Boat Name:

Model/Year:

Hull No.

Hailing Port:
04/06/2004 3:31 PM Pacific Time

Mary Jo........

Beleive me when I tell you that I have "been there and done that" with sanding the brown crud off. Hours and hours of filthy work. Vowed that I would never do that again. So here is what I did so as not to repeat that chore. At the beginning of the season I apply a coat of West Marine Bottom Shield anti-fouling paint. When I take my boat out for the season..... I pressure wash the bottom within an hour or two and all the brown crud comes off. Now.... some of the bottom paint comes off too... but who cares..... I put a new coat on every season anyway. Good luck!
Wes Van Nurden
Chippewa Falls, WI

Boat Name: Puddle Jumper

Model/Year: C-22 1982

Hull No. 11164

Hailing Port: Lake Wissota, Chippewa Falls, WI
04/07/2004 6:02 AM Pacific Time

For covering the areas under the rollers (I have bunks) I use a floor jack, with a 6X6 and jack up just behind the keel (It's really strong there). I then put some short 2X6 sections under portions of the bunks for safety. I use a foam brush and reach in with the brush sides to paint these areas (only have a couple of inches). I'm very careful not to put my hand in between the bunk and the boat. Same concept should work with rollers.

For the brown gunk (I have some that is on the topsides every year). There is a product that can be used to clean gunky stuff off (Can't remember the name, it was zippy or something like that). I've actually heard that toilet bowl cleaner works well also. Just be careful on how much (it is concentrated, can be watered down) is used since it will eat into the gel coat if one is not careful.

Good luck

Al Gearing
Burleson, Texas

Boat Name: Torch of Freedom

Model/Year: C-22/'76

Hull No. 6448

Hailing Port: Arlington YC
04/08/2004 7:44 AM Pacific Time

We don't have brown gunk, here it seems to be black, and since we dry sail it is not on the bottom but the deck and insde the boat, like mildew. Here in Texas we simply use bleach, watered down some. Also, I find that Tide or other detergent in water, wash and let stand in the sun without rinseing right away.
I just bought this boat and the bumpers were amost black, I washed them and just laid them out in the sun, they are cleaning up nicely.
For what it's worth, Al Ge
Heidi Heidel
Fredericksburg, VA

Boat Name: Interim

Model/Year: 1973

Hull No. 2212

Hailing Port: Colonial Beach, VA
04/19/2004 10:45 PM Pacific Time

Al - for your black gunk problem, try Lysol Mildew remover, originally intended for bathrooms. When I got mine it had sat outside, uncovered and untouched for several years. Mildew was taking over. Two days of a good cleaning and it looks brand spankin' new!
Al Gearing
Burleson, Texas

Boat Name: Torch of Freedom

Model/Year: C-22 '76

Hull No. 6448

Hailing Port: Arlington YC
11/07/2004 4:27 PM Pacific Time

Gentlemen, and Ladies too, if you do hull work. I read the above and have a two part question. First, I have inherited the hoist used to weight the boats at the Fort Worth boat club in 1996. I am going to modify it to pick the boat up without the mast, so it will be a cross bar forward and aft to hoist from. Now all this is to get a band free bottom to paint. I have talked to Gene Ferguson who lifts his boat by the f'r'd and aft mooring cleats which he has added tangs and turnbuckles to the transom and bow eye bolt to distribute the laods. Being cheap, I plan on using a 4x4 with padding under the fordeck and attach a line throught the forward hatch. Similarly, I plan on a 4x4 under the cockpit with attachment through the hatches.
I have heard of boats being picked on the chain plates and backstay attaching points, and I could do that. Does anyone have any experience or opinion?
The second part is, has anyone used WEST epoxy with their barrier coat? It sounds easy to apply, it is suppose to be self leveling and multipule coats can be applied with in minutes, just a little tackyness.
This is for dry storage, on a trailer.
Of all the work I've done on these boats I have not done a bottom job on one. I have done the sanding and filling for my 35' wooden boat, but the yard always insisted on doing the spraying of an obative paint.
Which is best?
Bob Vick
Caldwell, TX

Boat Name: Over Keel

Model/Year: <1985

Hull No. 13059

Hailing Port: Lake Somerville
11/08/2004 6:30 AM Pacific Time

Al,

Those 10,000 pound load tie down straps they sell at Sam’s Club is what I use to lift my boat. After the bottom is done it can be set back on the trailer to do the strap area. I have seen those cleat lift pictures, brave men. Of course, if you have a feather light C-22 like Gene Ferguson it might not be such a deck stress test.

The West System is easy & good. Harper & Hayslip appear to have used Graphite as a top UV coat over their West barrier coats, Gene’s is white I am not sure what he used. The West system goes on like paint, buy plenty of West System Rollers, many of the paint store rollers do not like the heat you will get with the epoxy cure & will come apart. (the most expense foam roller at Lowe’s will hold up in a pinch) There will be some bubbling that most use a paintbrush to “tip” the epoxy. I used a bunch of cheep squeegees to pop the bubbles & smooth the rolled on epoxy. The squeegee will tempt you to try for that perfecting finishing; do not work it too long. If you have to stop between coats make sure to wash the hull & light sand with lots of fresh water. I used foam hand sanders to get rid of the amine blush between coats, with a trickling water hose.

I sprayed my hull & boot stripe & for some reason I roll painted the bottom ablative coat, for trailer sailing you could just go with the graphite to coat. The graphite will sand smooth like glass.

If you are going to do the keel I have a link to a good template program that lets you match your keel dimensions to the template & print on regular paper that can be transferred to picture mat for fairing.

Cheers,

Bob Vick
Caldwell, TX
C 22 #13059
Over Keel

Al Gearing
Burleson, Texas

Boat Name: Torch of Freedom

Model/Year: C-22 '76

Hull No. 6448

Hailing Port: Arlington YC
11/08/2004 8:11 AM Pacific Time

Thanks a million Bob for the detailed feed back. I'll print that out and re-read it a few times to get the procedure fixed in my mind. It didn't sound like you objected to my lifting by the deck so that being the simplist for me, I think I will use that. I think it was Harper who told me he lifted his by the chain plates. I might try that if the supports are inline. Gene had his bottom done in a yard, he said, and it is some Interlux, VC-17?, he wasn't sure, and has lasted three years. They have a float-lift, in their slip, and only leave it in the water during regattas, which is about how mine will be used.
Thanks again, and hope to see you in Austin sometime,
Al Ge
Al Gearing
Burleson, Texas

Boat Name: Torch of Freedom

Model/Year: C-22 '76

Hull No. 6448

Hailing Port: Arlington YC
11/08/2004 8:15 AM Pacific Time

P.S.
Yes, Bob I would like that program to do the keel fairing, torch22@thegearingsnet is my e-mail address.
Thanks Al Ge
Joe McElroy
Snoqualmie, Washington

Boat Name: Teasel

Model/Year: 1979 Swing Keel

Hull No. 9014

Hailing Port:
11/08/2004 10:02 AM Pacific Time

Hi Bob,

Would you post that link for the keel fairing program for all of us to see. I found one that looked good, but I couldn't get it to make a template.

Joe
Bob Vick
Caldwell, TX

Boat Name: Over Keel

Model/Year: <1985

Hull No. 13059

Hailing Port: Lake Somerville
11/20/2004 7:43 AM Pacific Time

Al,

http://fly.to/tracfoil has the template-building program. I have a few websites with detailed discussions on profiles & a few emails from Pete on his opinions on the best profile. I printed out my templates on regular paper & transferred them to picture frame-backing mat. I never built the wooden frame most template resellers recommend. The mat I bought was thick.

I am moving & do not have access to all of my files but 006-009 profiles seem to be what Pete recommended. http://www.vacantisw.com/foildesign.htm has a good article that come short of just saying what is best for various size speed designs. Amazingly one of the best-detailed dissertations on fin forces & foil selection is for “model sail boats”, there are some good polar comparisons here http://www.onemetre.net/Technicl/FinForce/FinForce.htm

Cheers,

Bob Vick
Caldwell, TX
C 22 #13059
Over Keel

Tim Rix
Northsalem New York

Boat Name: HMS wetdream

Model/Year: 2001 250 catalina WB

Hull No.

Hailing Port: Viking Boat yard Hudson river
02/02/2005 5:02 PM Pacific Time

I just got a 250 2001 and it needs a bottom paint. I have read some on how to paint under the bunks but my question is. Do i need to paint the total centerboard? can i just paint that part that is hanging down on trailer and be ok? if i need to paint it does any one have a sugestion on how to get at it so i can paint more of it. I do sail on the Hudson river and i find things do need a good under coat to provent growth. Last question do things grow on centerboard if its pulled up into the trunk all the time its at slip? thanks any help would be nice
Al
Eckhart

Boat Name: Gallivant

Model/Year: 88/C25TWK

Hull No. 5801

Hailing Port: Houghton, Michigan
02/03/2005 5:00 AM Pacific Time

Tim,

If your trailer has bunks that the boat rests on, you should be able to prop the boat up fore and aft, then lower the individual bunks so you can paint the bottom completely.

Go to the Catalina 25/250 Association web site and query the Tech Tips section. There was a lively discussion regarding bottom painting a month or two ago. You may want to visit the site often as there are many C25/250 owners who have many ideas for upgrades and fixes. Generally all you need do is post a question and you'll get a bunch of knowlegdable advice.

Al
C 25T
GALLIVANT #5801
Dick King
Melbourne, FL

Boat Name: Twilight Zone

Model/Year: Sport/2005

Hull No. 15546

Hailing Port: Melbourne, FL
02/03/2005 6:01 AM Pacific Time

Tim - With regard to painting the entire keel, the general answer is you must paint antifouling on any of th surface that is under water. The design of the 25 and 22 keels is similar in that even in the full up position, most of the keel, except the very trailing edge and half of the head are below the waterline. A friend of mine put his boat up on timbers and 55 gallon drums and dug a hole under the boat so that he could lower the keel enough to paint the entire keel except for the top half of the heads. He could also paint the keel slot aft of the pivot pin.

The only right way to do it, is to lower the keel out of the raised boat and paint the whole thing as well as the keel trunk.. Not an easy thing to do on your 900 lb keel. It is a job, best left to a marine yard..
Joe Western
Terrace, B.C.

Boat Name: Blue Velvet

Model/Year: C-30 1989

Hull No. 5656

Hailing Port: Kitimat, B.C.
05/03/2005 4:01 PM Pacific Time

I have an '89 Catalina 30. It's moored in salt water year round. Last year while not being used for an extended period, one of the mooring fenders wore through the gelcoat over an area of about two feet. This spring I'll be taking the boat out of the water to paint the hull. Does anyone have any suggestions how I can repair the gelcoat.
Thanks,
Joe.
Dick Reynolds
Lebanon, Oregon

Boat Name: Catnip

Model/Year: Swing Keel / 1974

Hull No. 4570

Hailing Port: Newport, Oregon
05/04/2005 3:52 PM Pacific Time

You can actually spray gel coat on the missing area. A friend of mine just re gel coated an entire Hobie cat 14 and it turned out just beautiful. Try for .020" thick then feather sand the edges
 
 
Hull / Keel / Rudder / Tiller
Catalina Direct Discussion Topics / Catalina 22 Discussion Area / Hull / Keel / Rudder / Tiller / bottom cleaning & painting