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Catalina Direct Discussion Topics / Catalina 22 Discussion Area / Safety / Stantions and lifelines
 
 
Author Stantions and lifelines
Chad Vicknair
New Orleans, LA

Boat Name: Hope Floats

Model/Year: 1975

Hull No. CTYH66727M76L

Hailing Port: Lake Pontchartrain, New Orleans
04/08/2004 8:47 PM Pacific Time

On stantions, I added some stock ones.... 18" and little outward slope. I hated them, and found them to be more of a safety hazard than help. They were just the right height to effectively trip me, they were ergonomically horrible to try and bend over and hold, and required squeezing leg over leg to walk to the bow. Sooo... I went to modifying them. I purchased some 1" stainless tubing and some 3/4 as well and slipped the latter into the 1" tube (for strength). I cut pieces 25" long and using a tube bender added a 15 deg. bend at the base approx. 4" up. My lifelines are now truely lifelines, they allow safe passage to the bow and do not obstruct the side deck.



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04/09/2004 9:46 AM Pacific Time

Chad,
I just installed two stern pulpits and come the stanchions thanks for the info.



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04/12/2004 6:15 AM Pacific Time

can you be a little more descriptive about your design. How many stanchions did you add at what cost
Chad Vicknair
New Orleans, LA

Boat Name: Hope Floats

Model/Year: 1975

Hull No. CTYH66727M76L

Hailing Port: Lake Pontchartrain, New Orleans
04/13/2004 7:26 PM Pacific Time

Hi Bob,
I added two stanchions on each side, I have a factory bow pulpit and a custom stern pulpit. The stern railings, however come down on the sides just like the split set CD sells. I purchased a 10 ft. length of 1" stainless and a 10 ft. length of 3/4 for $80 at a local welding yard. I purchased the heavy duty stanchion 1" bases from West Marine for $50 each. I used 1/8" stainless aircraft cable with tygon tubbing slipped over it for lifelines... approx $60. Pulpit Anchors, eyes, and turn buckles from West Marine for about $60. I made the cockpit sections gates and covered these with air condition rubertex slid into 1 1/2" blue vinyl flexible drain piping available from Home Depot to cushion these areas as back rest.

It was probally not the cheapest way to go, however I was more interested in functionallity than cost. As for strength ? I had my girlfriends teen age sons hanging off of the same stanchion post last week and it did not bend not loosen. I also have backing plates under the deck. I had considered filling them with resin, however after seeing the boys hanging on them, it would be an overkill.

My scanner is down right now but I will try to get some pics online as soon as I can. I ordered a bimini from CD Monday and am looking forward to setting that up soon. Modified of course....lol.

You can email me at [email protected] it you have anymore questions. Chad
Chip Ford
Marblehead, MA

Boat Name: Chip Ahoy

Model/Year: 1974-Swing Keel

Hull No. CTY032820374

Hailing Port: Marblehead, Mass.
04/14/2004 5:00 AM Pacific Time


Chad Vicknair wrote (above):

"On stantions, I added some stock ones.... 18" and little outward slope. I hated them ..."

My stanchions bend inboard, and I've never seen another C22 where they do. Talk about making it difficult to squeeze by! Has anyone else got a similar setup?

See:
http://cltg.org/chip_ahoy/graphics/oldstyle_eyebolts.jpg

Chip Ford --
Marblehead, Mass.
1974 C22 Swing Keel #3282 - "Chip Ahoy"
http://cltg.org/chip_ahoy/




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04/14/2004 7:19 AM Pacific Time

Great Idea! Please tell me more.
Did you cut the 3/4 stainless steel tuping about 1' and put the bend in it about 3 or 4 inches up. That would leave you 6" or 7" of safety room to slide the 1' stainless tubing over the the 3/4" tubing. Did you then drill a stop hole and secure it with a stainless rivet or lock nut to insure the tubing?

The reinforced base: was it secured with 1" stainless screws and 5200?



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04/14/2004 11:25 AM Pacific Time

Vick,
Your e-mail [email protected] does not work. Demonmailer sent my e-mail addressed to you back!?



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04/14/2004 11:26 AM Pacific Time

I mean Chad!
Chad Vicknair
New Orleans, LA

Boat Name: Hope Floats

Model/Year: 1975

Hull No. CTYH66727M76L

Hailing Port: Lake Pontchartrain, New Orleans
04/14/2004 2:50 PM Pacific Time

Sorry, not sure what's up with that. [email protected] is my correct address. You can email me at work [email protected] but I will not get it until Fri. night when I go back to work. Maybe just try again? Chad
Chad Vicknair
New Orleans, LA

Boat Name: Hope Floats

Model/Year: 1975

Hull No. CTYH66727M76L

Hailing Port: Lake Pontchartrain, New Orleans
04/14/2004 3:05 PM Pacific Time

Bob,
Just saw your other message. I cut the 3/4 about an inch longer than the 1" and 1" pipe to 25", and slid the former into the latter, then bent them together in a GreenLee conduit bender to 15 deg. about 4" up from the end. I let the extra 1" of 3/4 hang out the end I was bending because it will pull in a little when you bend. Then trimmed it off after. Looking at my stanchion base, the bend outward begins about 4" above the deck. Cutting to 25" with the 15 deg slope gives approx. 24" inch height when mounted in place. I used a self tapping screw to secure the stanchion to the base, it goes through both pieces of tubbing.

Chip,
I have never seen a Cat 22 up close with stanchions on it. I just know that my side deck already slopes a little to the cabin and that by the time I put the stock stanchions on, I could barely squeeze through. It seemed to defeat the purpose of "safety".
Chad Vicknair
New Orleans, LA

Boat Name: Hope Floats

Model/Year: 1975

Hull No. CTYH66727M76L

Hailing Port: Lake Pontchartrain, New Orleans
04/14/2004 3:13 PM Pacific Time

I secured the bases with stainless bolts and used a 4x6" backing plate (stainless) with holes drilled to match the stanchion base from below. I set the base in a layer of sealant, forget the name... but it was a sulfur/silicone mix recommended by a guy at West Marine that lives on his boat.



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04/17/2004 8:31 AM Pacific Time

Chad,
In an earlier message you had said your stanchions were over kill. Did you mean putting the 3/4" insde the 1" stainless steel for instance. The reason I am asking is I can buy 1" stainless steel tubing really cheap $2.50 per '.
I cannot get the 3/4" at the same business and it's harder to find. Isn't the 1 " enough with a 15 degree bend. It's the base that takes the stress, thus a backing plate. Do you agree?
Thanks!
Chad Vicknair
New Orleans, LA

Boat Name: Hope Floats

Model/Year: 1975

Hull No. CTYH66727M76L

Hailing Port: Lake Pontchartrain, New Orleans
04/17/2004 11:31 AM Pacific Time

Bob,
Some of the better stanchions that I have seen are made of tube in tube, that's what gave me the idea. I think that a single piece would bend on you with a big load on it. Your greatest force would be just above the base and having the tubing pre-bent here will cause it to give more easily. If you use a heavier 1" o.d. pipe than you would probally be ok. Tubing is engineered for bending. I thought it would be an overkill to fill mine with fiberglass resin, but I deffinately feel tube in tube is the place to be when using stainless steel tubing. Chad



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04/18/2004 5:57 PM Pacific Time

My stainless steel tubing place has 7/8" and 1" tubing I doubt oe wil go inside the other. I agree with your comments and look for other tubing to fit the job. Why do the job and short cut when the purpose is safety. How long did it take you to complete the project? Do you have any pics? they would be vry helpful!
Thanks a lot!



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Hailing Port: Great salt Lake
06/12/2005 11:50 AM Pacific Time

I am looking at purchasing a 1975 Catalina 22 for my family. It has a bow pulpit and stern rails, however, no stanchions and lifelines. I have two young children and would like to add stanchions (two per side) and lifelines.

My question is, is it possible to add these items (retrofit) to her or since it was not built with them?

Thanks,

Vic
Al Gearing
Burleson, Texas

Boat Name: Torch of Freedom

Model/Year: C-22/'76

Hull No. 6448

Hailing Port: Arlington YC
06/13/2005 4:47 AM Pacific Time

Yes, Vic, it is and I just happen to have a set if you would like to buy them. Don't know how much they are worth, but I'm sure we can work out a deal.
Al Ge
Al Gearing
near Fort Worth, Texas
[email protected]
817-295-0234
Shannon Pelline
Nevada City, CA

Boat Name: Fantasia

Model/Year: C-22, 1987/swing

Hull No. #CTYH4052A787

Hailing Port: Homewood, Lake Tahoe
07/26/2006 10:19 PM Pacific Time

Has anyone replaced their stantions on a catalina 22? we removed (with great difficulty) and had our forward starboard stanchion re-welded where it was fatigued. the problem is now how to remount the stantion, particularly the outer screws. the protrusion of the hull below the deck doesn't allow for the washer to be re-installed, nor any size of tool or fingers to hold a nut in place. we've temporarily used 4200 but it isn't watertight when we heel. thanks.

Michael Dekoekkoek
San Francisco

Boat Name: Yellow Brick Road

Model/Year: 1972 C22

Hull No. 1227

Hailing Port:
07/27/2006 9:37 AM Pacific Time

Hi,

I had this problem a couple years ago. I solved it buying two bolts that were longer than the original stanchion bolts that wouldn't reach. I was then able to tighten both down as normal. Once both bolts were tight, I took one of them out and replaced with the original stanchion bolt. The other bolt kept the stanchion tight enough to the deck and the inner fiberglass wall to get the original bolt on. After that, I did the same for the other bolt.

When I did all that I needed another peerson outside the boat to keep the long bolts from spinning, while I tightened from inside the cabin.

Hope that helps.

Michael
Michael Dekoekkoek
San Francisco

Boat Name: Yellow Brick Road

Model/Year: 1972 C22

Hull No. 1227

Hailing Port:
07/27/2006 9:46 AM Pacific Time

Shannon,

After reading your question again, I think I misread it. If so, Sorry. I didn't have any issues getting to the bolt, just the length of the bolt. I notice our boats are about 15 years apart, so we probably have quite different cabin interiors.

Hope you do figure out a way to get the bolt secure.

Michael
David Torrisi
Santa Clara, CA

Boat Name: Dumbo

Model/Year: 1975 C-22

Hull No. 4330

Hailing Port: Santa Clara
07/27/2006 10:13 AM Pacific Time

Shannon,
I have an older boat, but without seeing it, I might suggest you use a Dremel to grind out the liner or any other non-structural part to get the access you need. This should be in the vee berth area and pretty much hidden from view. You really don't want any leaks in the deck and those stantions should be bolted securely!

Good luck!

David
Shannon Pelline
Nevada City, CA

Boat Name: Fantasia

Model/Year: C-22, 1987/swing

Hull No. #CTYH4052A787

Hailing Port: Homewood, Lake Tahoe
07/27/2006 5:28 PM Pacific Time

Michael and David,
Thanks for the responses. You're correct Michael about the difference in the model year as to the accessibility to these stantion bolts. You're right David, about the location being in the v-berth; additionally, there is a wooden trim piece that would hide any repairs to it (we had to remove it to access the bolts). I'm a little nervous to use a dremel, or other drill, to gain access to this area, however. Unless I hear of another alternative I may have to go this route.
Thanks,
Shannon
PHILIP & SHARON MERLIER
FELLSMERE, FLORIDA

Boat Name: SWIZZLE STICK

Model/Year: 1990 C22

Hull No.

Hailing Port: FELLSMERE, FLORIDA
07/28/2006 9:37 AM Pacific Time

Shannon:
I have a 1990 C22 with the same design problems that you describe. A couple of the stantions that were originally installed on my boat rusted from the day that I got it new. I took it back to the dealer/seller to have them replaced without any satisfactory results (big disappointment) . I suspect that they anticipated the same problems that you are encountering. Personally I have never been able to figure out how to be able to work with the bolts so that I could change the stantions out, so I have been living with a couple ugly rusty stantion bases for years. Thank you for putting the question to the forum and I hope we both learn of a good solution.
Philip & Sharon
Lynn Buchanan
Nevada City, CA

Boat Name: SAILYNN

Model/Year: SWING 1984

Hull No. 11994

Hailing Port: SCOTTS FLAT LAKE, CA
07/28/2006 9:30 PM Pacific Time

I live in Nevada City, CA and have a 73 C22 #2431 that I removed the stanchions from and sold to a local friend. I also had a 86 that we removed the stanchions and a friend had a 87 who removed the stanchions. If I remember correctly the only way to get to the forward ones was to drill a hole in the interior lining to get to the bolts. After the job was done, I covered the hole up with a small piece of teak. Do you ever sail at Scotts Flat Lake? If you need any help with your boat, give me a e-mail at [email protected]
Shannon Pelline
Nevada City, CA

Boat Name: Fantasia

Model/Year: C-22, 1987/swing

Hull No. #CTYH4052A787

Hailing Port: Homewood, Lake Tahoe
07/31/2006 11:44 AM Pacific Time

Lynn,
Thanks for the message. Looks like we may have to use a drill, though I'm still hopeful someone out there has a better (?) solution.
We haven't sailed on Scotts Flat yet. We keep her at Tahoe during the summer but hope to sail locally this fall. I'll drop you a line when we do.
Robert Donehoo
Duluth Ga

Boat Name: Shady Deal

Model/Year: Catalina 22 1979

Hull No. 8940

Hailing Port: Lake Lanier Ga
11/18/2010 2:07 PM Pacific Time

I just thought I'd get something stirred up here by re-opening up this can of worms. I have 3 c22s and have removed the lines on 2 and working on the 3rd. I kept them on until I was tripped up and fell from the deck to the asphalt.
On my 86 model I put popup cleats in place. Now I can walk to the bow without stepping over any fender lines and they come in handy for tying off spring lines. I have cruised with several people that swear by lifelines until someone gets hurt.
Good for you that spent the time and money to improve the existing lines. Good designed life lines are worth it, poor lines are a nuisance.
 
 
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Catalina Direct Discussion Topics / Catalina 22 Discussion Area / Safety / Stantions and lifelines