Boat Name:
Model/Year:
Hull No.
Hailing Port: |
 06/27/2004 10:37 AM Pacific Time
Hey All,
Well, the original wire main halyard on my c22 has started jamming a bit up top in the mast head. I guess it's time to do some maintenance... I'm thinking about changing out my wire halyards to the rope ones, but had a couple of questions...
I saw a kit on CD that runs the rigging inside the mast... What are the benefits of running with internal halyards? Why would I consider making that change?
I was also thinking about attaching a single block & jam cleat assembly to the cleat at the bottom of the mast (via rope) so I can do quick ups and downs and run the lines "kinda" aft when single-hand-ing and make it easier for my crew (Wife) to get some leverage when hoisting the main. Any thoughts on that?
Thanks!
Dugald |
Boat Name:
Model/Year:
Hull No.
Hailing Port: |
06/28/2004 6:53 AM Pacific Time
Dugald
I replaced my wire halyards two years ago. I elected to keep this outside the mast for simplicity sake. I don't like cutting holes in my mast and boom. I use 1/4 Sampson Warpseed for the halyards. I'm not sure how well a jam or clam cleat will work to hold the halyards. I run my back to Lewmar rope clutches. This is because my kids do not have a enough strenght to tension the headsail. So, I needed to run the halyard back to a winch. The clutch is so I can lock down the halyard so it doesn't slip.
You can read all about it and see photos on my site: www.leachs.com
Robert |
Dick King
Melbourne, FL
Boat Name: Twilight Zone
Model/Year: Sport/2005
Hull No. 15546
Hailing Port: Melbourne, FL |
06/28/2004 6:57 AM Pacific Time
By all means convert to all rope halyards. Those "meathooks" on wire can be vicious. Internal halyards reduce windage and eliminate flow distirbance around the mast for better mainsail performance. If you plan to race the boat you should give internal halyards consideration. However, there are a few downsides. The external halyard runs over two sheaves at the masthead, while the internal one has to turn down into the mast, so only used one. The single sheave creates more wear on the cover of the halyard. If you have fittings mounted to the mast with sheet metal screws, these screws can catch on the rope as it passes over the sharp ends of the screws. You must be extremely careful about not letting the lower ends of the halyards disappear into the mast., or you will have to take the mast down to rerun the internal halyards. Lastly, you will have to install exit blocks on the bottom of the mast to allow the internal halyards to come out of the mast.
I am very happy with my internal halyards, but I race the boat. If you are not planning to race it, I would recommend you stick with external halyards. You can still use longer ones and route them to the cockpit. |
Boat Name:
Model/Year:
Hull No.
Hailing Port: |
06/30/2004 9:03 AM Pacific Time
Thanks to both of you! I'm going to order the kit from CD. Yes, those meat hooks "got me good" as I reached up to pull down the main (with the halyard snug *next to* its sheave). I had forgotten that I knew some of those words!
Cheers! |
Aaron Mosher
Cape Elizabeth, ME
Boat Name: Euphoria
Model/Year: C22 - 1981
Hull No. 10111
Hailing Port: Casco Bay |
07/13/2004 12:08 PM Pacific Time
I'm not sure if I have wire or line halyards. They appear to be rope, but is there a wire inside?
I have no idea if they're original to 1981. I know no one's replaced them since 1996.
Aaron |
Michael Smalter
Webster, NY
Boat Name: Marrakesh
Model/Year: 1986
Hull No. 13645
Hailing Port: Rochester, NY |
07/13/2004 4:16 PM Pacific Time
A bare wire halyard attaches to the sail, goes over the mast sheeves, and is then is spliced to a line which you use on the winch and cleat off. Sounds like you have all rope halyards. |
