Standing Rigging / Spars

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Author Help with mast raising
Harald Thannhauser
Calgary, AB Canada

Boat Name:

Model/Year: C22 1979

Hull No. 8266

Hailing Port: Glenmore
08/09/2004 10:13 PM Pacific Time

I recently bought a '79 C22 and have only had the mast up and down a few times - each one a hair-raising event.

My main question for now (I have many) is whether the manual is correct about leaving the top side-stays hooked up when raising and lowering. When I first tried this, the forestay was removed and the mast stood perfectly upright! When I 'pulled' on the mast to start it coming down I noticed the upper sides stays actually tighten up. Later - I examined the location of the uppers - and they are forward of the mast --- so how could they remain connected!? ... doesn't the physics argue against it?

Needing a very much easier way to raise and lower the mast ...

Harald
---Turk ---
Canfield, Ohio

Boat Name: Miss Kitty

Model/Year: 1974 C22

Hull No. 3520

Hailing Port: Mosquito Lake, N.E. Ohio
08/10/2004 4:53 AM Pacific Time

Your right, on some models. Mine is the same as yours and you cannot leave the uppers attached, only the rear lowers. That poses a problem as you do not get side to side support from the rear lowers as the mast goes up. I added 2 stainless steel loops on each side of the mast as far up as I could reach and use them to run winch straps from the mast down to a loop of rope that is connected to the rear and upper shroud deck mounts. I use simple steel loops that fit the deck mount holes. I use the hook from the winch straps to attach to the rope and it allows it to slide forward or back. The rope "averages" the distance quite well and the winches allow you to adjust as it goes up. I use a roller attached to the top of the bow rail (two by for design) to support the trailer cable running up to the front stay and crank up the mast. Look elswhere for a gib pole design that gives you more leverage - my setup has a great deal of tension and tends to pull left or right as it goes up. The pole support attached at right angles to the lower mast and run forward with the front stay attached to the front end of the pole would provide more leverage and stability. You do have one thing right though. When my wife and I put up our mast for the first time, it was scary! The bad news is, taking it down is even scarier!
Dick King
Melbourne, FL

Boat Name: Twilight Zone

Model/Year: Sport/2005

Hull No. 15546

Hailing Port: Melbourne, FL
08/10/2004 7:05 AM Pacific Time

Harald and Turk - I have owned both a '76 and a "78 model. On neither did I have to DISCONNECT the upper shrouds while raising and lowering the mast. You are looking for serious trouble, if the mast gets away from you when it reaches the up position. I trailer sail the boat and the only things that get disconnected are the forward lowers and the forestay. If the pivot point of the mast step is aft of the plane of the upper shrouds., it is in the wrong place. If it truly that far aft, the mast would have forward rake and in light air you will have trememdous lee helm. At worst, just back off on the upper shroud turnbuckles, just enough so the mast will rotate without placing undue strain on the upper shrouds. You are right though. Moving the mast up and down without the uppers connected would be a very scary and dangerous operation.
Dick King
Melbourne, FL

Boat Name: Twilight Zone

Model/Year: Sport/2005

Hull No. 15546

Hailing Port: Melbourne, FL
08/10/2004 7:14 AM Pacific Time

I forgot to add that using a MastUp (a telescoping mast support) will help immensely with mast raising and lowering. You connect the base of the mast to the mast step, extend the MastUp to the up position and the angle of the mast to the boat is sufficient to raise it the rest of the way, by straddling the mast facing aft with arms extended and knees bent and straightening your knees. I used a halyard attached to a line from one of the bow cleats to help hold the mast up until the forward lowers and the forestay can be attached.
Harald Thannhauser
Calgary, AB Canada

Boat Name:

Model/Year: C22 1979

Hull No. 8266

Hailing Port: Glenmore
08/10/2004 8:52 AM Pacific Time

Dick - thank you for your reply ... yes it was dangerous! The last time it got away on us when we were trying the gin-pole and it broke the tab of the aluminum mast step. I was planning on installing the stainless steel model from CD today.

Upon closer examination, the upper stays line up about in the middle of the mast, putting the pivot point aft of the stays. Could it be the case that as the mast leaves the vertical position that the stays slack?

Harald
Ralph Silhan
Gainesville, Ga

Boat Name:

Model/Year: 22-1977

Hull No.

Hailing Port:
03/21/2005 5:43 PM Pacific Time

On 12/16/2004 I hope the keeper of the fleet posted pictures from Ken Palmer of one man raising of the mast.. I sure could use these pictures for my 22.. I have a low bridge problem.
Ken Palmer
Franklin, TN.

Boat Name: "Last Penny"

Model/Year: 1981

Hull No. 10475

Hailing Port: PPYC
03/21/2005 9:29 PM Pacific Time

Ralph, If you will provide a email address I will send you the pictures your looking for.



Boat Name:

Model/Year:

Hull No.

Hailing Port:
04/13/2005 12:20 AM Pacific Time

Ken Palmer, If you still have those photos showing the mast raising pole and/or the specs to make one, can you send them my way or let me know where to find them?

Thanks, Gary
[email protected]
Bob Conway
Huber Heights, Ohio

Boat Name: Spindrift

Model/Year: C22/1979

Hull No. #8717

Hailing Port: Buck Creek, Ohio
04/13/2005 6:20 AM Pacific Time

Gary,

There are a couple of examples here:

https://netfiles.uiuc.edu/rwahlfel/www/c22maint.htm

Bob
 
 
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