Garrett
Phoenix, AZ
Boat Name: "Sting"
Model/Year: C22 1974
Hull No. 3627
Hailing Port: Lake Pleasant, AZ |
 09/02/2004 2:21 PM Pacific Time
My keel cable (pretty new) is rubbing on the screw heads in the drum when it is about 1/2 way down...it has several SINGLE strands broken along the lenght of the cable from this. like little hairs here and there sticking up.
Obviously I know I am gonna replace it fairly quickly, but anyone wanna hazard a guess how critical this amount of damage is?
THX from this new boat owner.
Garrett |
Dick King
Melbourne, FL
Boat Name: Twilight Zone
Model/Year: Sport/2005
Hull No. 15546
Hailing Port: Melbourne, FL |
09/03/2004 7:18 AM Pacific Time
My keel cable (pretty new) is rubbing on the screw heads in the drum when it is about 1/2 way down...it has several SINGLE strands broken along the lenght of the cable from this. like little hairs here and there sticking up.
Obviously I know I am gonna replace it fairly quickly, but anyone wanna hazard a guess how critical this amount of damage is?
What kind of screws do you have? My winch drum has carriage bolts with the smooth heads on the inside. There is nothing to abrade the cable. If you have broken strands, the cable is slightly weaker and there is a chance the "fishhooks" could catch on and/or damage the hose thru which it passes.
Plan to remove and repair the cable and the drum as soon as practical to do so. |
Ken Palmer
Franklin, TN.
Boat Name: "Last Penny"
Model/Year: 1981
Hull No. 10475
Hailing Port: PPYC |
09/03/2004 8:31 AM Pacific Time
since you know you most likely have cable damage, it would be a good idea to replace the hose and clamps while you have it apart. I'd also take a very close look at the turning ball and make sure its in good shape. |
Artur Piotrowski
Burlington, Ct
Boat Name: Spirit
Model/Year: C22 1986
Hull No. 13485
Hailing Port: Bantam, Ct |
09/03/2004 8:41 AM Pacific Time
Just a comment, when I did the cable maintenance on my C22 I found out that "po" installed the keel cable on the wrong side of the turning ball. Cable should be fed in the groove on the aft side of the ball. Your symptoms are very familiar. Good luck.
-"Spirit" #13485 |
Charlie Gallagher
Lynn, Ma.
Boat Name: Kestrel
Model/Year: C22 1986
Hull No. 13174
Hailing Port: Marblehead, Ma. |
09/03/2004 11:56 AM Pacific Time
My cable snapped a month ago and I'm still waiting for the replacement from Catalina Direct. At the time they were back ordered. Should be fun raising the keel to get it back on the traailer. I plan on bringing the boat to the dock and moving it up the line to shallower water on the outgoing tide. The trick will be to run a heavy line from the bow down both side to the right place on the keel and then use the cabin top winches to hold the keel all the way up. I should then be able to get it on the trailer. I may have to bring the boat home and call it a season before the new cable comes. |
Boat Name:
Model/Year:
Hull No.
Hailing Port: |
02/19/2005 11:22 PM Pacific Time
I need to replace the keel cable on my '82 - 22', but with the the boat on the trailer the keel is too far up to allow access to where the cable connects to the keel. Is there a way to lift the boat or lower the keel with the boat on the trailer. Is this procedure shown anywhere or on one of CD's videos?
Thanks for any suggestions. This forum is the best!
|
Dick King
Melbourne, FL
Boat Name: Twilight Zone
Model/Year: Sport/2005
Hull No. 15546
Hailing Port: Melbourne, FL |
02/21/2005 6:40 AM Pacific Time
Gary - The "how to" follows:
1 Lower the tongue of the trailer to the ground.
2 Put a little slack in the keel cable.
3 On a hard surface (driveway, halfsheet of 3/4 plywood) build a stack of cement blocks under the stern of the boat. Interlace the blocks for more stability) Fill the gap with boards or pieces of plywood. Use wedges to prevent any rolling of the boat on the stern support
4 Tie the axle of the trailer to the frame of the trailer near both wheels so the springs don't expand as boat weight is removed from them.
5 Jack the tongue of the trailer up so that the trailer begins to rotate around the axle. As it does so, the transom will rest on the stack and the rear trailer bunks will separate from the bottom of the boat. The keel will lower away from the boat (if you remembered to slack the cable). Keep going until the keel eye bolt is exposed enough to get at the clevis pin.
6 Insert blocks of wood between the boat and the bunks above the rear bunk supports to steady any tendency for the boat to roll on the trailer.
7 Insure the keel weight is fully supported by the trailer.
8 Remove the cotter pin and clevis pin from the keel cable. (Fit check the new cable fork, to ensure it fits the keel eye bolt Fit check the clevis pin as well.
9 Remove the panel covering the winch (remove the keel winch handle first.)
10 Remove the winch drum from the winch (a 3/8 in bolt serves as the axle for the winch drum.) NOTE: The bolt goes thru a sleeve in the hub of the winch drum. If the sleeve is corroded to the bolt, you will have to remove the whole winch.
11 With a helper pulling from below the boat, unwind the cable from the drum to the point where the cable is free of the drum except for the place where it woven and bolted to the drum.
12 Make a drawing or take some photos on how the end of the cable is attached to the drum. Also make note of which direction the cable wraps around the drum. (It looks simple, but you would be surprised how easy it is to get it wrong with the new cable.)
13 Remove the end of the cable from the drum and tape a 5 foot piece of stout string to it act as a pull for the new cable.
14 Pull the end of the cable out of the boat making sure to keep the other end of the string inside the boat.(Tie it to something.)
15 if you are replacing or inspecting the turning ball, remove the hose from the top of the "volcano" by loosening the two hose clamps (if you don't have two, go get another one) and carefully twisting and pulling on the hose, until it separates from the boat.
16 With the turning ball exposed, note which side (should be aft) the pull string passes the ball. If the ball is worn or shows evidence of not turning, replace it. It is held in place by a pin inserted thru the sides of the ring that the hose slides over. The pin may be corroded to the ball. Be careful not to damage the ring, when removing it.
17 After the ball has been inspected or replaced, make sure the pull string is on the correct side of the ball (aft side)
18 reinstall the hose over the ring. I recommend a good (but removable) sealer like 3M 4200 be used on the ring/hose joint.
19 Reinstall the hose clamps
20 Attach the end of the new cable to the stout string with just enough thin tape to allow a firm pull on the cable up into the boat. There is not much clearance thru the turning ball. DONOT try to pull hard on the string if the connection meets resistance going thru the ball.
21 Pull the end of the cable up into the boat and attach it to the winch drum, using the drawing or photos as a guide. Make sure the cable is wound onto the drum in the same direction as the old one.
22 Remount the drum onto the winch body. (Or winch to the boat.)
23 With a helper applying firm tension on the cable from below, wind the cable onto the winch as if you were raising the keel. (Note that it will not be as tight as if the full weight of the keel were pulling on it.
24 Attach the fork on the end of the cable to the eye bolt on the keel and make sure the cotter pin in the clevis pin is opened so that it will not inadvertently come adrift. I wrap the ends around the pin to help prevent anything snagging on the cotter pin.
25 Crank the keel up. The new cable is installed!
26 Raise the tongue of the trailer slightly to remove the stabilizing blocks from the trailer.
27 Lower the tongue of the trailer enough to remove the stern support and raise it to its connect-to-the-vehicle position.
28 Untie the springs
29 When you launch the boat, raise and lower the keel a few times to reset the wraps and tension of the new cable.
|
Artur Piotrowski
Burlington, Ct
Boat Name: Spirit
Model/Year: C22 1986
Hull No. 13485
Hailing Port: Bantam, Ct |
02/21/2005 7:34 AM Pacific Time
Great job. I have one question that falls into this category.
What kind of lubrication is recommended for the keel winch? Thanks.
"Spirit" #13485 |
Al Gearing
Burleson, Texas
Boat Name: Torch of Freedom
Model/Year: C-22 '76
Hull No. 6448
Hailing Port: Arlington YC |
02/22/2005 6:19 AM Pacific Time
Hi, Artur, since no-one else has answered your question, I'll try. Any grease that will block corrosion would be great. However, too much will attrach dirt. I have not used any, other than a bit when re-assembling it. Spraying it with WD or something every once in a while should suffice IMHO.
Al Ge |
Artur Piotrowski
Burlington, Ct
Boat Name: Spirit
Model/Year: C22 1986
Hull No. 13485
Hailing Port: Bantam, Ct |
02/22/2005 11:55 AM Pacific Time
Thanks Al. That's exactly what I've been doing so far. |
Lowell Richardson, Owner, Catalina Direct
Sacramento CA
Boat Name: Steamboat Willie
Model/Year: 1984
Hull No.
Hailing Port: Folsom Lake |
02/28/2005 12:07 AM Pacific Time
Be careful not to get any lubricant of any kind on the clutch assembly which is on the primary input shaft. If you do the lubricant will allow the clutch to slip and the winch will no longer hold the keel up. |
