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Catalina Direct Discussion Topics / Catalina 22 Discussion Area / Cabin / Mainmast Support Stanchion Removal ?
 
 
Author Mainmast Support Stanchion Removal ?
Michael Barnes
Newtown Square, PA 19073

Boat Name: Gaper Delay

Model/Year: 74 Catalina 22

Hull No. CTYH37550774

Hailing Port: Philadelphia
09/07/2004 4:59 PM Pacific Time

I had a weak foredeck, 2-3 inches of play around the hatch, and have dug into it far enough to find that all the plywood between the liner and deck is ALL entirely rotted to hell and needs to be replaced. Seems it started with a leaking area at the bow and over time rotted the wood all the way back aft of the hatch. Yikes !

I would like to REMOVE and REPLACE the mast support in the cabin. How involved is this ? I am in the middle of the procedure outlined under the "Forward Hatch No Step" posting. I need to be able to bring a "one piece" plywood replacement into the cabin and lay it up under the foredeck with the 5200 sealant. PLEASE ! NEED ADVICE, A PROCEDURE, HELP with the removal of the mast support in the cabin. I am sitting here staring at it and it is sort of staring back at me ! Just want to be sure that there are no surprises in this job ahead !
Joe McElroy
Snoqualmie, Washington

Boat Name: Teasel

Model/Year: 1979 Swing Keel

Hull No. 9014

Hailing Port:
09/08/2004 9:09 AM Pacific Time

Installing that plywood with 5200 would be a big mistake. You need something fluid enough that it will flow out under the very low pressure per square inch that you will be able to put on a large plywood sheet. That means epoxy resin (for superior bond and moisture resistance). Catalina used a polyester resin putty to bond plywood in the bottom of the hull on the earlier models. On mine, the putty was obviously too thick and left large air voids under the wood, which, of course filled up with water later in life.

You will need to cut out all of the rotting wood right up to the clean deck fiberglass (the wood is probably bedded in microballoon/polyester putty). This job will be really dusty and messy and would work much better and easier if you could turn the boat over so that you are working with the deck under you. Then, you have gravity on your side to help the epoxy stay where it belongs while it sets up. Once the wood is bonded in place, you want a layer of glass cloth over it, which increases beam strength of the sandwich.

By the way, in this type of sandwich, multiple pieces of plywood, rather than one piece would have very little effect on strength, and would be far easier to fit.
Larry
Greenville, SC

Boat Name: Kemo Sabe

Model/Year: C-22 , 1973

Hull No. 2229

Hailing Port: www.keoweesailingclub.com
09/08/2004 5:26 PM Pacific Time

You will have not problem at all in just removing the compression post. The deck will not sink in or will you note any change in shape. Remove the lag bolt on top and the bolt with nut for the tabernacle and just bump the post out.

Larry
Bruce Arnsman
Kalamazoo, MI

Boat Name: Laurenje

Model/Year: C22/1977

Hull No. ...

Hailing Port:
09/15/2004 8:47 AM Pacific Time

I am facing the same sagging deck problem with my recently purchased '77 C22. The leak appears to have come from the fore and port side of the hatch, and has deteriated the core from the bow to the aft side of the hatch over to the rub rail side. The starboard side seems to be in tack as well as 3" to 4" strip (inner liner) along the outer port side rub rail. I'm guessing that was securred with glass/resin from the factory and does not have a core in that area. I'm apprehensive to cutting into the liner and am looking to "insert" replacement core. I need to know the stock thickness of the plywood core? Would another core product work besides plywood, i.e. glass mat, or another matrix? Also, in terms of adhesion, is flexability better in this repair oppose to a more rigid attachment i.e. resin or epoxy? All comments and ideas area appreciated.

Bruce
 
 
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