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Michael Barnes Newtown Square, PA 19073
Boat Name: Gaper Delay
Model/Year: 74 Catalina 22
Hull No. CTYH37550774
Hailing Port: Philadelphia |
09/07/2004 4:59 PM Pacific Time
I had a weak foredeck, 2-3 inches of play around the hatch, and have dug into it far enough to find that all the plywood between the liner and deck is ALL entirely rotted to hell and needs to be replaced. Seems it started with a leaking area at the bow and over time rotted the wood all the way back aft of the hatch. Yikes !
I would like to REMOVE and REPLACE the mast support in the cabin. How involved is this ? I am in the middle of the procedure outlined under the "Forward Hatch No Step" posting. I need to be able to bring a "one piece" plywood replacement into the cabin and lay it up under the foredeck with the 5200 sealant. PLEASE ! NEED ADVICE, A PROCEDURE, HELP with the removal of the mast support in the cabin. I am sitting here staring at it and it is sort of staring back at me ! Just want to be sure that there are no surprises in this job ahead ! |
Joe McElroy Snoqualmie, Washington
Boat Name: Teasel
Model/Year: 1979 Swing Keel
Hull No. 9014
Hailing Port: |
09/08/2004 9:09 AM Pacific Time
Installing that plywood with 5200 would be a big mistake. You need something fluid enough that it will flow out under the very low pressure per square inch that you will be able to put on a large plywood sheet. That means epoxy resin (for superior bond and moisture resistance). Catalina used a polyester resin putty to bond plywood in the bottom of the hull on the earlier models. On mine, the putty was obviously too thick and left large air voids under the wood, which, of course filled up with water later in life.
You will need to cut out all of the rotting wood right up to the clean deck fiberglass (the wood is probably bedded in microballoon/polyester putty). This job will be really dusty and messy and would work much better and easier if you could turn the boat over so that you are working with the deck under you. Then, you have gravity on your side to help the epoxy stay where it belongs while it sets up. Once the wood is bonded in place, you want a layer of glass cloth over it, which increases beam strength of the sandwich.
By the way, in this type of sandwich, multiple pieces of plywood, rather than one piece would have very little effect on strength, and would be far easier to fit. |
Larry Greenville, SC
Boat Name: Kemo Sabe
Model/Year: C-22 , 1973
Hull No. 2229
Hailing Port: www.keoweesailingclub.com |
09/08/2004 5:26 PM Pacific Time
You will have not problem at all in just removing the compression post. The deck will not sink in or will you note any change in shape. Remove the lag bolt on top and the bolt with nut for the tabernacle and just bump the post out.
Larry |
Bruce Arnsman Kalamazoo, MI
Boat Name: Laurenje
Model/Year: C22/1977
Hull No. ...
Hailing Port: |
09/15/2004 8:47 AM Pacific Time
I am facing the same sagging deck problem with my recently purchased '77 C22. The leak appears to have come from the fore and port side of the hatch, and has deteriated the core from the bow to the aft side of the hatch over to the rub rail side. The starboard side seems to be in tack as well as 3" to 4" strip (inner liner) along the outer port side rub rail. I'm guessing that was securred with glass/resin from the factory and does not have a core in that area. I'm apprehensive to cutting into the liner and am looking to "insert" replacement core. I need to know the stock thickness of the plywood core? Would another core product work besides plywood, i.e. glass mat, or another matrix? Also, in terms of adhesion, is flexability better in this repair oppose to a more rigid attachment i.e. resin or epoxy? All comments and ideas area appreciated.
Bruce |
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