ERIC
CAMERON PARK,CA
Boat Name: SUNFLOWER
Model/Year: C-22 1970
Hull No. 247
Hailing Port: MARTINEZ |
 09/08/2004 7:11 PM Pacific Time
I have a C-22, hull #247, year 1970. The Tube that the keel cable comes up through, the one that the turning ball goes through, is completely corroded away. How do I fix this? Do I need to have a new one machined? What material is it made out of? Where can I get the dimensions? Or can this part still be ordered fron Catalina? Please help! The cable is rubbing on the fiberglass every time I winch it up and down. |
Boat Name:
Model/Year:
Hull No.
Hailing Port: |
09/08/2004 8:07 PM Pacific Time
Eric,
Don't stress about this. It is merely a radiator hose. Go to the auto parts store and get one the same diameter and cut it off to size.
If you do this in the water ...your boat will sink!!
Pull it up on the hard and replace it. While you are doing this.... check out the cable and turning ball for wear. All these parts can be purchased by the sponser of this website.....
catalinadirect.com |
Garrett
Phoenix, AZ
Boat Name: "Sting"
Model/Year: C22 1974
Hull No. 3627
Hailing Port: Lake Pleasant, AZ |
09/08/2004 8:25 PM Pacific Time
Hey Eric,
I think Eric is saying the Volcano is actually corroded, not the hose....in which case, I would think some fiberglass fabrication is needed to re-build the neck of the volcano where the turning ball and hose attach.
If it is the hose only damaged, easy, see above post..!
=)
Garrett
Phoenix, AZ #3627 |
Lowell Richardson, Owner, Catalina Direct
Sacramento CA
Boat Name: Steamboat Willie
Model/Year: 1984
Hull No.
Hailing Port: Folsom Lake |
09/09/2004 10:17 AM Pacific Time
The keel cable hose is actually exhaust hose, not radiator hose. Some but not all radiator hoses may be up to the task, but which ones? The exhaust hose is very rigid and therefore holds its shape well without being supported at the top. Part # is Z1801
Throughout the years we have had several customers report limp keel cable hoses snagged by broken strands in the keel cable. When the keel was cranked up, the mechanical advantage of the winch pulled the keel hose off of the bronze tube without the owner even realizing what had happened. The first indication of a problem was the boat sinking out from under them. Luckily, in each reported case, the keel was being raised to enter shallow water slips and therefore the boats were near shore in shallow water when they sank.
These reports also prompted some research regarding hose clamps. We learned the common clamps we are all familiar with don't clamp all that tight. As soon as the slits in the clamp engage the rubber, the clamp can't slide around the hose and therefore they don't get any tighter. They work on a car because the radiator cap releases any pressure over 14psi. Your keel winch might pull significantly more than that. We located some clamps that have the gear formed on the outside of the clamp, yet the inside surface is smooth, allowing greater clamping action. Part # is Z1871.
The tube which passes through the hull is bronze. If it is completely corroded away, I would check the other underwater metal parts as well. Corrosion of the tube indicates the possibility of electrolysis. Boats in some marinas experience accelerated corrosion due to incorrect wiring of the docks or other boats in the marina. If one part is severely corroded, it is likely others are too. Consider the addition of sacrificial keel zincs to retard the corrosion. Bronze tube is part #D2079. It will need to be glassed back into the hull. Use epoxy resin for this work. Polyester resin is not a good bonding agent. |
Harald Thannhauser
Calgary, AB Canada
Boat Name:
Model/Year: C22 1979
Hull No. 8266
Hailing Port: Glenmore |
05/29/2005 12:10 PM Pacific Time
My volcano is an upside down ice-cream cone(pointed)!! When I took off the keel hose for inspection, my '79 which I have owned now for 1 year, did not have a cylindrical tube coming up, and did not have a ball in place. You can imagine my shock!
I have ordered all the parts from CD but I need the measurement from the top of the bronze(brass?) tube to the hull bottom (inside). I could also use any proceedure advice anyone can give... e.g. - do I cut off the portion of the ice-ream cone volcano at the point that the opening is equal to the diameter of the new tube - and then shove it in and epoxy it??
Thanks for the help! |
Colin Abbey
Penticton, British Columbia
Boat Name: Will o' The Wisp
Model/Year: 1978
Hull No. 8276
Hailing Port: Penticton |
11/29/2005 10:38 AM Pacific Time
I have recently aquired an older model Catalina 22. I can't determine its genesis because it doesn't have a hull number (sails don't either). I disconected the keel cable because of broken strands. When I removed the rubber hose, I found that some previous owner had taped the hose to the volcano with electical tape as there was no neck to slide it on. Whatever had been on the thro' hole was gone, bronze tube, rolling ball et al. I have ordered the parts from Catalina direct, but i'm not sure about how they should be configured. How far should the bronze tube extend above the volcano? What is the best method of bonding it to the volcano and does the hose have to be clamped on to the tube? I would really appreciate some advice. One other thing: is it possible to still find swing keels to replace a worn out one.
Many thanks in advance. Colin Abbey |
Colin Abbey
Penticton, British Columbia
Boat Name: Will o' The Wisp
Model/Year: 1978
Hull No. 8276
Hailing Port: Penticton |
11/29/2005 2:13 PM Pacific Time
apropo my previous post, the hole for the cable in the
volcano is 1" inside dia. Does anyone know the outside
dia. of the bronze tube for the rolling ball?
Thanks, Colin A. |
R. C. Luiken
Milford, DE
Boat Name: Ricochet
Model/Year: C-22 Swing Keel/1986
Hull No. 13560
Hailing Port: Milford, DE/St. Michaels, MD |
11/30/2005 2:45 AM Pacific Time
It is my understanding that the turning ball sits in slots in the "volcano". Thus you don't have to concern yourself with the height above the top.
The new hose should be double clamped to the "volcano" tube. Given your description of what the previous owner did, you should check all of you through hull connections that are below the water line to be certain that each of them is double clamped.
This is one thing the Coast Guard is hot on right now. This past summer I was in New England and heard that they declared a commercial fishing vessel "manifestly unsafe" for that reason alone.
I know some people who have placed pvc pipe inside the hose to prevent chafing
Good luck on your repair
|
Lance Jones
Atlanta, GA
Boat Name: Kitty's Cat
Model/Year: 1988
Hull No. 622
Hailing Port: Lake Lanier, Aqualand Marina |
11/30/2005 6:26 AM Pacific Time
The CD bronze tube is threaded onto the volcano. I just completely replaced all of the lifting system from the cable, volcano and winch. All parts are available from CD and it took me less than an hour to do it by myself. Easy job. |
Dick King
Melbourne, FL
Boat Name: Twilight Zone
Model/Year: Sport/2005
Hull No. 15546
Hailing Port: Melbourne, FL |
11/30/2005 9:25 AM Pacific Time
Be careful just "threading" the pipe into the mound of fiberglas commonly referred to as the "volcano".
The threads in the fiberglas were formed by glassing in the threaded pipe. If the grooves in the volcano are damaged, the old material should be removed and redone.
I would not want to depend on just screwing a piece of pipe into the old hole, especially give the lack of good maintenance exhibited by the previous owner(s). |
Sean Madian
Portland, OR
Boat Name: Time Out
Model/Year: 1973
Hull No. CL 3839 FX
Hailing Port: Portland |
12/01/2005 6:27 AM Pacific Time
I have read so many posts on this topic that I had to chime in. I'll defer to Dick King who has a great deal more experience than I do, but I'll emphasize his point as well. I just saw a picture of a C-22 still tied to the dock but under about 20' of water because the volcano failed after some 'repairs' didn't work. The advice associated w/this was to over-check it, over-engineer it, and be over-cautious. It is one of the few places where there is a 'hole' below the water line and deserves respect because of that. This is all redundant of course.... I'd just hate to see more underwater C-22s! |
Colin Abbey
Penticton, British Columbia
Boat Name: Will o' The Wisp
Model/Year: 1978
Hull No. 8276
Hailing Port: Penticton |
12/01/2005 9:08 AM Pacific Time
I want to thank all of you kind people who offered your expertise on my question re. my problems with the keel lifting assembly. I have only had my boat since August and want to restore her to her former glory. My biggest problem, as I said before, is with the keel lifting assembly,
The 'volcano' - so called - is level on the top, which is why the previous owner taped the hose to it with electrical tape. It appeared that the tube inside the hole in the volcano had corroded away, but on inspecting the hole from underneath the hull, I can see that there is indeed a tube in there. It is approx. 2 3/4" long and the top is flush with the top of the volcano. My questions is: What can I fasten the hose to? Where would the lifting ball be located when I have one - above the volcano or inside? Is it possible to somehow insert the bronze tube from Catalina Direct in the existing tube or to it? I hope that this clarifies my dilemma.
I hav'nt done a lot of sailing but I am no stranger to the sea. I took my first trip as a deckhand learner on a deep sea trawler before my 16th. birthday, sailing out of Hull, England. I learned the trade on the fishing grounds of the Russian coast, the White Sea, Norwegian coast, Bear Island, and off Iceland. At 18 I was conscripted into the Royal Navy and served on a destroyer. After being demobbed, I sailed on oil tankers to the West Indies and South America and freighters to the Baltic Sea, before going back to the deep sea trawlers.
I took sailng lessons in West Vancouver, Canada in the 60s, but have only just come back to sailing. My wife and I just love our little Catalina 22, and havn't had so much fun for a long time and can't wait for the cold winter to end. I didn't mean to be boring but I really enjoy this venue. Thanks everybody and bless you.
Colin Abbey
1.
|
Ken Dula
Fletcher, N.C.
Boat Name: Second Wind
Model/Year: Catalina 22 1977
Hull No. 7697
Hailing Port: |
12/01/2005 10:31 AM Pacific Time
Colin-
If you could, please e-mail me some pictures of what your describing. If I can get a look at what's going on, maybe I can help some. I'm no expert, but if nothing else, I could forward pictures of my boat so you can get an idea of what it should look like. Send the pictures to [email protected] |
Steven Keplinger
Severna Park MD 21146
Boat Name: Nifty
Model/Year: 1978
Hull No. CTYH7999M78B
Hailing Port: Round Bay |
12/01/2005 11:23 AM Pacific Time
Sean Madian's post leads to the interesting point (unless you own the boat) of what to do in the event your ship does go down!
This happed to me. Not for the same reasons, but the results were identical. My boat was tied to the end of the pier. Keel down. It was a dark and stormy night (couldn't resist) and a veritable spring tide.
While I slept, the water got blown right out of the river!
Unfortunately, I was away on business early the next morning. It seems my boat did not do well with the rising tide; also quite high and abrubt, because the wind shifted 180 degrees overnight.
So my little craft, quietly waiting for a rising tide to float like a proper creature, became a bottom dweller; albeit only about 14' down.
I bought a gasoline air compressor. Always wanted one. Scavenged half-a-dozen truck tire tubes from truck stops and the like, removed the valve stems, connected 3/8" air compressor hose via 1/4" fittings and hose clamps to the now empty valves, and fabricated similar suchlike valves from still more salvaged, but unuseable tubes for the other end of each hose. I put the stems I had previously withdrawn into the valves now hose-clamped to the distal end of each 25 foot chunk of hose.
Each tube was completely emptied of residual air, the hoses attached to their stemless valves, rolled and tied lightly with yard that was sure to break as the tube was inflated. I attached pigs of lead to each tube.
Then it was simply a matter of placing them under the decks, feeding the hoses to the surface and inflating.
Worked like a charm.
I have subsequently learned from pros that I should have lashed and frapped down the cabin and deck: they've been known to pop off during such treatment. In fact, the salvage guys have "tubes" that are rigged outboard of the hull, sort of like giant sausages.
Nevertheless, my put-together solution worked. And the tubes are nicely stored in a box under my porch...should anyone have need of such things... |
Sean Madian
Portland, OR
Boat Name: Time Out
Model/Year: 1973
Hull No. CL 3839 FX
Hailing Port: Portland |
12/02/2005 5:47 AM Pacific Time
Wow! I'll speak for all the C-22ers out there saying that Steve's tubes tubes/tires stay under his porch. Nevertheless, he makes a great point. Being aware enough of your surroundings and being a strict pessimist has its place. BTW: I think Chipford did something that I'll be copying this winter. I'll be installing a 500 GPM bilge pump w/a float switch tied directly (fused of course) to my batts. Both in case something like Steve's situation arises or heaven's forbid I hit a tree in the river where we sail and hole my hull. |
Colin Abbey
Penticton, British Columbia
Boat Name: Will o' The Wisp
Model/Year: 1978
Hull No. 8276
Hailing Port: Penticton |
12/02/2005 11:33 AM Pacific Time
Hi Ken:
Thanks a lot for the offer. I'm not set up to send pictures by email at this time (soon). The good news is, I received volume #1 of the 'Upgrades' video from Catalina Direct yesterday, and it was just what the doctor ordered. The segment on replacing the keel lifting assembly showed me exactly what I needed to know. One picture is worth a thousand words for sure. I would still like to see what you have done though. I would highly recommend these videos for anyone who is doing or thinking about upgrading. Thanks again, and thanks CD for making these videos.
Colin |
