Vic
Indianapolis, Indiana
Boat Name: Summer Zamboni
Model/Year: 1985?
Hull No. 13100
Hailing Port: Geist Marina, Indianapolis |
 10/05/2004 8:14 AM Pacific Time
Before last season, I Painrted my rudder nwith an Interelux Top Side paint. Last weekend when I took the boat out of the water, I tried to spray down the rudder with a garden hose to clean it. All of the paint flaked off under the water pressure in big sheets.
Obviously, I goofed up using a top side paint rather than an anti-fouling bottom paint. However, I also guess that I did not prepare the surface of the rudder properly before painting, even though I sanded off all of the old paint. Any suggestions or thoughts on how to get my paint to stick on the rudder next year? |
Joe McElroy
Snoqualmie, Washington
Boat Name: Teasel
Model/Year: 1979 Swing Keel
Hull No. 9014
Hailing Port: |
10/05/2004 9:24 AM Pacific Time
Vic,
I don't think the adhesion issue has to do with it being a topside paint. It is important to do a good clean of the paint BEFORE you sand, or you are sanding wax, oil, whatever, into the paint. A primer may help, but I suspect it is not necessary.
For cleaners, you never see it mentioned in the literature, but I suspect that it is important to use both solvent cleaners and detergent cleaners. Solvents and detergent clean quite different sorts of foreign matter. There are commercial degreasing detergents available that are quite strong and effective. I'm sorry I can't tell you names at the moment. If you need to know, I can look later. Repost to remind me.
Joe |
Al Gearing
Burleson, Texas
Boat Name: Torch of Freedom
Model/Year: C-22 '76
Hull No. 6448
Hailing Port: Arlington YC |
10/06/2004 5:33 AM Pacific Time
Joe and Vic, I think that using the top-side paint could be a big part of the problem in that top-side paint may not be able to stand continuous soaking in water. Since we have to store our boats out of the water, we haven't seen that problem here, but some here pull the rudder off each time just to keep it from dragging, maybe that would be a solution for you, just store it in the cockpit between sailings. For what it's worth, Al Ge |
Dick King
Melbourne, FL
Boat Name: Twilight Zone
Model/Year: Sport/2005
Hull No. 15546
Hailing Port: Melbourne, FL |
10/06/2004 8:22 AM Pacific Time
I second Al G's suggestion. If you put a wingnut on the pivot bolt of the tiller, it only takes a few minutes to remove the tiller and store it below and pull the rudder and store it either in the cockpit or below.
That way you avoid having to BOTTOM paint the rudder AND having to keep refinishing the tiller. |
Dick Reynolds
Lebanon, Oregon
Boat Name: Catnip
Model/Year: Swing Keel / 1974
Hull No. 4570
Hailing Port: Newport, Oregon |
10/06/2004 7:50 PM Pacific Time
As Joe McElroy above mentioned degreasers, they can be bought at any auto parts stores that sell auto painting supplies. Look in your yellow pages. |
Kent Overbeck
Signal Mountain, TN
Boat Name: Leap Frog & FrogZilla
Model/Year: '88 Wing keel / '69 swing
Hull No. 14647 / 185
Hailing Port: Chattanooga, TN |
10/07/2004 3:57 AM Pacific Time
I painted a Flying Scott, topsides and bottom, with two part Interlux top side paint. I later left it in the water for 3 days. All the paint on the bottom blistered and in some places, came off in sheets. Top side paint is just what it says it is. |
paul osborne
Lima NY
Boat Name: Emy Lyn II
Model/Year: 1984
Hull No.
Hailing Port: Rochester |
10/07/2004 4:49 AM Pacific Time
Hello, my boat (s) stay in the water . I do paint the rudder because of that. I sand down to the fiberglass , wash with acetone , and 2 coats of bottom paint. I use VC17. as for the tiller light sanding and a coat or 2 of clear. I use a tiller cover . Have been doing this for 20 yrs+ . No you can not use a top coat bellow the water line. |
Joe McElroy
Snoqualmie, Washington
Boat Name: Teasel
Model/Year: 1979 Swing Keel
Hull No. 9014
Hailing Port: |
10/08/2004 9:38 AM Pacific Time
I finally called Interlux technical help on the topside paint question. I have personally used topside paint below the waterline for years with never a problem. According to Interlux, the topside paint is harder and more permeable. Both of these traits lead to eventual movement of moisture through the coating and the hardness probably helps a blister form. The issue is one of time, apparently. They said that 2 weeks is on the outer time limit for acceptable submersion, but it is apparently extremely variable, depending on many factors (temperature, curing time, substrate, etc.). So, for most people a bottom coating is preferred, not necessarily because of the antifouling properties, but for the bonding properties as well.
Joe
|
Linda Hoffecker
Lancaster, PA
Boat Name: t/c
Model/Year: '82 Cat 22
Hull No. t/c
Hailing Port: Havre de Grace, MD |
10/09/2004 7:28 AM Pacific Time
Hello, I've had my boat in the brine for about 3 or so months and it has Toplac on the bottom. I am afraid to look when it gets hauled out (soon), as I, too, was told to not immerse it for along period of time. All the boat painters were busy and the season was zipping by. I didn't have the patience to wait to get sailing, so we will see what the damages are pretty soon. Gee, such a lovely, forest green color, too. |
Linda Hoffecker
Lancaster, PA
Boat Name: t/c
Model/Year: '82 Cat 22
Hull No. t/c
Hailing Port: Havre de Grace, MD |
10/09/2004 7:29 AM Pacific Time
Forgot to mention that I bought the boat w/the Toplac on the bottom since it was sailed in fresh water and hauled out after each sail. Worked fine for that type of use. Arghhh. |
Joe McElroy
Snoqualmie, Washington
Boat Name: Teasel
Model/Year: 1979 Swing Keel
Hull No. 9014
Hailing Port: |
10/09/2004 10:28 AM Pacific Time
Linda,
You might call Interlux at their tech help line: 1-800 468 7589 (hard number to find on their website) http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/
My impression is that sometimes there will not be a problem with constant immersion. I suspect that they will tell you to strip the toplac completely off before refinishing. |
Linda Hoffecker
Lancaster, PA
Boat Name: t/c
Model/Year: '82 Cat 22
Hull No. t/c
Hailing Port: Havre de Grace, MD |
10/10/2004 8:47 AM Pacific Time
Joe, thanks for the number, but I did call them before launching and they said to strip and repaint w/the bottom stuff. I couldn't wait any longer for a painter, so I just bit the bullet and launched her. We shall see what we shall see.
Different topic, I know, but now, it's the gruesome task of unstepping the mast. Will be a first for me and everybody has his/her own 'best' way to do it. I've read a lot of 'ways'. I am kind of nervous about it....well, a lot nervous.
Thanks again for your reply.
Linda |
Vic
Indianapolis, Indiana
Boat Name: Summer Zamboni
Model/Year: 1985?
Hull No. 13100
Hailing Port: Geist Marina, Indianapolis |
10/10/2004 5:13 PM Pacific Time
Thanks to everyone for their thoughts on painting my rudder. I will sand it and prime it with acetone before painting it with BOTTOM paint next year.
Linda-- One suggestion on taking down your mast is to tape your halyards to the mast before you take the mast down. Hockey stick tape or making tape work well.
The reason I suggest this is that it is very easy for the halyards to become intertwined with the shrouds when the mast is down. If this happens, as it did to me, you will either spend Beaucoup time trying to straighten out all of the wires when you go to raise the mast in the spring, or else will get the mast up, only to realize that the jib or main halyard is hopelessly wrapped around one o fthe side shrouds somewhere above the spreaders, thus preventing the halyards from being able to raise the sail, and making it almost impossible to get the halyard unwound without taking the mast down again.
Good luck.
Vic |
david martin
hutchinson island fl
Boat Name: barefoot gourmet
Model/Year: cat 22 1977
Hull No. 7942 (?)
Hailing Port: Hutchinsom Island Fl |
10/11/2004 7:59 AM Pacific Time
I guess we have now changed topics . It is possible to take those turns out if halyards go above spreaders , use an extended boathook and tie a messenger on the free end of the halyard |
Michael Smalter
Webster, NY
Boat Name: Marrakesh
Model/Year: 1986
Hull No. 13645
Hailing Port: Rochester, NY |
10/11/2004 2:08 PM Pacific Time
If you tape the halyards to the mast, beware of adhesive residue. Beige masking tape will leave quite a mess after only a few weeks. There are several ways to prevent this: 1) apply the tape backwards, so it sticks to itself,and not the mast, then put a twist in it and do the last wrap adhesive to adhesive
2) Use plastic rigging tape that is designed not to leave residue. |
Ken Palmer
Franklin, TN.
Boat Name: "Last Penny"
Model/Year: 1981
Hull No. 10475
Hailing Port: PPYC |
10/11/2004 3:48 PM Pacific Time
I'd just velcro, you can buy a roll at lowes or any sprots store that sells soccer supplies. |
R. C. Luiken
Milford, DE
Boat Name: Ricochet
Model/Year: C-22 Swing Keel/1986
Hull No. 13560
Hailing Port: Milford, DE/St. Michaels, MD |
10/14/2004 6:34 AM Pacific Time
I use small bungee cords to hold the halyards and shrouds in proper allignment. I also tie surveyors tape (Available at Lowes) to each pair of turnbuckles. Three different colors identify uppers, an forward and aft lowers. Now all I have to worry about is a grey moment to remember which color is which. |
