Marie Musolino
Nags Head, NC
Boat Name: Reality Check
Model/Year: Catalina 22 / 1977/Swing Keel
Hull No. 6869
Hailing Port: Nags Head NC |
 10/22/2004 4:23 AM Pacific Time
The traveler came loose on the port side. The bolt dropped down and seems to be sitting on the liner inside the transom. The treads are still sticking out of the top of the transom so I was able to get a few turns on it with a needle nose pliers to get it started back into the traveler. However, there doesn't seem to be anyway of getting to the head of the bolt from inside the port storage unit in the cockpit to get a wrench on it to tighten it. Before I cut a whole in the transom to get to the bolt, does anyone have another suggestion. |
Joe McElroy
Snoqualmie, Washington
Boat Name: Teasel
Model/Year: 1979 Swing Keel
Hull No. 9014
Hailing Port: |
10/22/2004 9:53 AM Pacific Time
Marie, I have never had to deal with that yet and I hear that access is pretty variable. Ours has a nut inside and is accessible with a socket extension.
What I do suggest is that you check out availability of hole plugs BEFORE you cut an access hole. There are various nice plastic and metal hole plugs that will do good job of covering up IF you have to go that way. I've never found them on the market, but they are used all over in industry.
I just did a quick search for examples:
http://www.mouser.com/catalog/619/1098.pdf
Some pop in to a hole with no adhesive required, but you need a fairly accurate hole (using a hole saw from the hardware store).
Joe |
Joe McElroy
Snoqualmie, Washington
Boat Name: Teasel
Model/Year: 1979 Swing Keel
Hull No. 9014
Hailing Port: |
11/14/2004 5:32 PM Pacific Time
Marie,
I just noticed that there are some helpful pictures of a C22 that was cut apart. It shows the traveler nut access.
https://netfiles.uiuc.edu/rwahlfel/www/KenPalmerCrossSections.htm
Joe |
Marie Musolino
Nags Head, NC
Boat Name: Reality Check
Model/Year: Catalina 22 / 1977/Swing Keel
Hull No. 6869
Hailing Port: Nags Head NC |
11/15/2004 4:36 AM Pacific Time
I was able to cut a hole using a 1 3/4 inch hole saw a bought at home depot. I ran the drill in reverse to cut the hole. Since the fiberglass is so hard, the hole saw bit into it; runnin the drill in reverse gave me a nice smooth cut. I then used a open wrench to tighten the nut. I added a few drops of 5200 sealant to the exposed treads. Then cover the hole with the stainless steel louvre plates I purchased from CD. The whole job took less than 1 hr. I was very happy with the final outcome. |
ron carter
broken arrow, OK
Boat Name: Soft Winds II
Model/Year: 1971 Cat 22
Hull No. 862
Hailing Port: Grove, OK |
03/28/2006 6:36 PM Pacific Time
I have a loose traveler and need to know how far below the top edge of the transom to drill my hole to get to the nut on the end of the traveler rod? Someone said to use a 1 3/4" saw hole drill, but not where to drill? Can someone help me? Thanks. |
Marie Musolino
Nags Head, NC
Boat Name: Reality Check
Model/Year: Catalina 22 / 1977/Swing Keel
Hull No. 6869
Hailing Port: Nags Head NC |
03/31/2006 12:54 PM Pacific Time
Hi Ron,
I'm going by memory here , the bolt does not extend very far down, If you go in about 1/2 - 1 inch below the transom you should be able to get to the bolt. You |
Ken Taylor
Pinconning, MI
Boat Name: Nosis
Model/Year: 1976
Hull No. c 22
Hailing Port: Bay City MI |
05/27/2012 9:41 PM Pacific Time
you dont have to put any extra holes in your boat to reach the bolt
i just repaired mine a week ago
The bolt on the port side is the same size as the bolt on the starboard side the socket will not slide up in between the fiberglass like it will on the starbourd side what i did was take a 1/4" dirve sock and ground it down as small as i could all that was left of the socket was enough for 2 points of the socket to attach to the bolt and used a few extentions to get it up to the bolt.
that still didnt work though. I borrowed a mini camera and could finally see the top of the bolt
there is know way that you could get the socket on the bolt know matter what I did.
On the port side there seems to be and extra wall of fiberglass that runs up between the inner and out fiberglass sides unlike on the starbourd side. so what i did and it worked by the way
near the inside top of the inner wall there is enough room for the bolt to slide up and down a little. still not enough room to get the socket on but i made a rod with a small hook at the end and slid it up the inner fiberglass wall and hooked it over to the back side of the wall then twisted it and slowly chipped the inner fiberglass wall away by hooking and twising the rod untill i made enough room for the socket to attach to the bolt. once i did that with the ground away socket i finally got it to tighten up without drilling any holes. i kept the socket for future use not much left of it after grinding most of it away. |
ooJpiued
San Francisco
Boat Name: ooJpiued
Model/Year: 1967
Hull No. 1
Hailing Port: 80 |
05/27/2012 9:41 PM Pacific Time
you dont have to put any extra holes in your boat to reach the bolt
i just repaired mine a week ago
The bolt on the port side is the same size as the bolt on the starboard side the socket will not slide up in between the fiberglass like it will on the starbourd side what i did was take a 1/4" dirve sock and ground it down as small as i could all that was left of the socket was enough for 2 points of the socket to attach to the bolt and used a few extentions to get it up to the bolt.
that still didnt work though. I borrowed a mini camera and could finally see the top of the bolt
there is know way that you could get the socket on the bolt know matter what I did.
On the port side there seems to be and extra wall of fiberglass that runs up between the inner and out fiberglass sides unlike on the starbourd side. so what i did and it worked by the way
near the inside top of the inner wall there is enough room for the bolt to slide up and down a little. still not enough room to get the socket on but i made a rod with a small hook at the end and slid it up the inner fiberglass wall and hooked it over to the back side of the wall then twisted it and slowly chipped the inner fiberglass wall away by hooking and twising the rod untill i made enough room for the socket to attach to the bolt. once i did that with the ground away socket i finally got it to tighten up without drilling any holes. i kept the socket for future use not much left of it after grinding most of it away. |
ooJpiued
San Francisco
Boat Name: ooJpiued
Model/Year: 1967
Hull No. 1
Hailing Port: 80 |
05/27/2012 9:46 PM Pacific Time
you dont have to put any extra holes in your boat to reach the bolt
i just repaired mine a week ago
The bolt on the port side is the same size as the bolt on the starboard side the socket will not slide up in between the fiberglass like it will on the starboard side what i did was take a 1/4" drive socket and ground it down as small as i could all that was left of the socket was enough for 2 points of the socket to attach to the bolt and used a few extentions to get it up to the bolt.
that still didnt work though. I borrowed a mini camera and could finally see the top of the bolt
there is know way that you could get the socket on the bolt no matter what I did.
On the port side there seems to be and extra wall of fiberglass that runs up between the inner and out fiberglass sides unlike on the starboard side. so what I did and it worked by the way
near the inside top of the inner wall there is enough room for the bolt to slide up and down a little. still not enough room to get the socket on but I made a rod with a small hook at the end and slid it up the inner fiberglass wall and hooked it over to the back side of the wall then twisted it and slowly chipped the inner fiberglass wall away by hooking and twisting the rod untill i made enough room for the socket to attach to the bolt. once i did that with the ground away socket i finally got it to tighten up without drilling any holes. i kept the socket for future use not much left of it after grinding most of it away. |
Ken Taylor
Pinconning, MI
Boat Name: Nosis
Model/Year: 1976
Hull No. c 22
Hailing Port: Bay City MI |
05/27/2012 9:46 PM Pacific Time
you dont have to put any extra holes in your boat to reach the bolt
i just repaired mine a week ago
The bolt on the port side is the same size as the bolt on the starboard side the socket will not slide up in between the fiberglass like it will on the starboard side what i did was take a 1/4" drive socket and ground it down as small as i could all that was left of the socket was enough for 2 points of the socket to attach to the bolt and used a few extentions to get it up to the bolt.
that still didnt work though. I borrowed a mini camera and could finally see the top of the bolt
there is know way that you could get the socket on the bolt no matter what I did.
On the port side there seems to be and extra wall of fiberglass that runs up between the inner and out fiberglass sides unlike on the starboard side. so what I did and it worked by the way
near the inside top of the inner wall there is enough room for the bolt to slide up and down a little. still not enough room to get the socket on but I made a rod with a small hook at the end and slid it up the inner fiberglass wall and hooked it over to the back side of the wall then twisted it and slowly chipped the inner fiberglass wall away by hooking and twisting the rod untill i made enough room for the socket to attach to the bolt. once i did that with the ground away socket i finally got it to tighten up without drilling any holes. i kept the socket for future use not much left of it after grinding most of it away. |
