Nancy Varvil
Fayetteville, Arkansas
Boat Name: Cha-Ching
Model/Year: 1981
Hull No. 10448
Hailing Port: Beaver Lake, Arkansas |
 12/04/2004 3:15 PM Pacific Time
Bet I could look this up somewhere, but would rather hear from someone who's done this and liked the results. Took off all wood around companionway entry today. It's grey, with grooves where softer wood has gone away. It seems solid. What's the best way to refinish/preserve this after I sand it? Would like it not to get too dark, if possible. |
Ken Palmer
Franklin, TN.
Boat Name: "Last Penny"
Model/Year: 1981
Hull No. 10475
Hailing Port: PPYC |
12/04/2004 8:40 PM Pacific Time
Wow Nancy,
You have opened a can of worms on this one, some like oil and some like varnish. Having said that you are going to have to decide which you like then which group your going to be in...LOL
Me, I'm in the oil group...
You can sand the teak back smooth if you like then clean and bleach it and apply oil, here's where I defer from most I do 9 coats the first time then one coat at the beginning of the year there after with great results. |
Nancy Varvil
Fayetteville, Arkansas
Boat Name: Cha-Ching
Model/Year: 1981
Hull No. 10448
Hailing Port: Beaver Lake, Arkansas |
12/05/2004 7:06 AM Pacific Time
What will it look like? And what kind of oil? |
Ken Palmer
Franklin, TN.
Boat Name: "Last Penny"
Model/Year: 1981
Hull No. 10475
Hailing Port: PPYC |
12/05/2004 7:18 AM Pacific Time
If you use oil it will be teak oil, there are several different brands, I have tried several but prefer the Starbright you can buy it in a three quart kit containing the cleaner, brightener and oil at most places that sell marine supplies. To get a good idea what it would look like when finished, clean a piece of your teak then wet it with water what you see is pretty much what is going to look like with the oil finish.
No matter which way you go you will have to address the teak again at some point.
It takes me about 20 minutes a year to do this in the spring. |
Nancy Varvil
Fayetteville, Arkansas
Boat Name: Cha-Ching
Model/Year: 1981
Hull No. 10448
Hailing Port: Beaver Lake, Arkansas |
12/05/2004 3:42 PM Pacific Time
You know, I didn't quite tell it right when I said I had all the wood around the companionway. I couldn't figure out how to take off the threshold. A couple of the little wood inserts on in the cockpit are mostly out, but a couple of them are intact. Behind the ones that are out I can't tell what sort of screwdriver to use. What's back there? Or should I just try to sand this in place and oil it the eight times (waiting how long between times?). |
Ken Palmer
Franklin, TN.
Boat Name: "Last Penny"
Model/Year: 1981
Hull No. 10475
Hailing Port: PPYC |
12/05/2004 4:36 PM Pacific Time
Once its soaked in you can apply another coat, I can't tell you how to remove the Threshold I didn't take mine out there was nothing wrong with it so I left it in place. Someone out there surely has removed one though? |
Nancy Varvil
Fayetteville, Arkansas
Boat Name: Cha-Ching
Model/Year: 1981
Hull No. 10448
Hailing Port: Beaver Lake, Arkansas |
12/05/2004 5:21 PM Pacific Time
I dan do it in place, I'm sure. |
Nancy Varvil
Fayetteville, Arkansas
Boat Name: Cha-Ching
Model/Year: 1981
Hull No. 10448
Hailing Port: Beaver Lake, Arkansas |
12/07/2004 12:44 PM Pacific Time
Ken, I'm getting it sanded. Why the clean and bleach before oil? What does the bleach do? and why clean, if sanded and no stains?
|
Ken Palmer
Franklin, TN.
Boat Name: "Last Penny"
Model/Year: 1981
Hull No. 10475
Hailing Port: PPYC |
12/07/2004 2:46 PM Pacific Time
Nancy,
The Cleaner will remove all the mildew from deep in the grain, I use a nylon paint remover brush to scrub the teak when I use the Cleaner, The Brightener will lighten the teak up to its natural color and will make the light finish your looking for when you apply the Oil.
The Cleaner contains Sodium Hydroxide and Sodium Hyochlorite
The Brightener contains Oxalic Acid
So wear eye protection and gloves when using them.
If you do one piece then let it dry and place it beside the pieces not cleaned you will see why using the cleaner and brightener pays off.
|
Nancy Varvil
Fayetteville, Arkansas
Boat Name: Cha-Ching
Model/Year: 1981
Hull No. 10448
Hailing Port: Beaver Lake, Arkansas |
12/07/2004 3:45 PM Pacific Time
Okie doke, I will.
Nancy |
Bill Hurni
Hendersonville, NC
Boat Name: Wingin' it
Model/Year: 1990 CP26
Hull No.
Hailing Port: Keowee Sailing Club |
12/16/2004 4:06 PM Pacific Time
Hi Nancy,
I also removed all the wood from my C22 and refinished all of it - some of it twice! For the inside wood, I cleaned all of it with teak cleaner, a stiff scrub brush and water. After it dried, I sanded it smooth and rubbed on a couple of coats of teak oil. That was 2 years ago and it still looks great. The outside wood was another story. I also cleaned it very good and sanded it some but not enough to remove all the grooves (I think they add character). Then I rubbed on a couple of coats of teak oil. This also looked good - for a couple of months. Then it all just turned black and looked terrible. After researching the problem, I discovered that there is a bacteria that lives on the oil, which turns it black. I then ordered a product called Teakguard (from www.myboatstore.com) and got the package that has both the cleaner and the Teakguard. It goes a long way so don't get the big containers. The wood looks beautiful - a kind of golden-brown color and no more black teak! Plus, the finish doesn't peel or flake off. The secret is to clean your wood extremely well with the cleaner in the kit. Then apply 4 or 5 coats of the finish. This is easy since it dries in only a few minutes. I bet if you try it you'll like it. Good luck!
-Bill |
Nancy Varvil
Fayetteville, Arkansas
Boat Name: Cha-Ching
Model/Year: 1981
Hull No. 10448
Hailing Port: Beaver Lake, Arkansas |
12/16/2004 7:07 PM Pacific Time
Thanks for the info. I have the above (Starbrite) kit now. Sounds like I may need the Teak guard, too. I like your idea re leaving in some grooves.
Gonna get on with this after Christmas.
Nancy |
George
Georgetown, SC
Boat Name: Blu Notes
Model/Year: C-22 1982
Hull No. 11184
Hailing Port: Georgetown, SC |
07/03/2005 8:04 PM Pacific Time
I found something far superior to teak oil and it is cheaper too. It's called TUNG OIL. I bought a bottle of Scandaivan Tung Oil with UV polymers at Home Depot for $8 and it did the trick. Exterior wood looks great.
Tung Oil is the way to go IMHO. |
Bilbo
Youngstown, Ohio
Boat Name: Sea Dog
Model/Year: Catalina 22 1987
Hull No. 13971
Hailing Port: Andover, Ohio |
10/30/2005 3:28 AM Pacific Time
Hi people,
I am trying to find out about two fasteners.
On the sliding hatch, the teak weatherboard of my used boat is connected to the fiberglass hatch and the handle with two wood screws and ring collars.
I have two other holes outboard of the handle going through the teak weatherboard with no screws in them. They must have fallen off a few years back with the PO. The holes seem to go completely through the weatherboard and the fiberglass hatch. Can anyone tell me what type/size of screws were used?
One suggestion for used boat buyers: Go over the boat completely. Check and tighten all screws, bolts & any other fastenings. From the bow to the rudder. |
