Miscellaneous

Catalina Direct Discussion Topics / Catalina 22 Discussion Area / Miscellaneous / Hatch Problem
 
 
Author Hatch Problem
Howard Conrad
Tulsa OK

Boat Name: H2

Model/Year: Cat 22 1983

Hull No. CTYH1653M83G

Hailing Port: Tulsa
02/04/2005 7:45 PM Pacific Time

The outer edges of my fiberglass sliding hatch (the edges that fit in the grooves in the railwood) are cracked from the forward end of the hatch about 8 inches back on both sides. Would appreciate any suggestions as to repair method as they are cracked right on the 90 degree angle.
Larry
Greenville, SC

Boat Name: Kemo Sabe

Model/Year: C-22 , 1973

Hull No. 2229

Hailing Port: www.keoweesailingclub.com
02/05/2005 7:00 AM Pacific Time

Howard,

Sorry for your problems with the sliding hatch, but it is not an unusual one and is not too hard to repair as I did two of them and I am not a whizz when it comes to fiberglass repair. Mine work and look good, so here goes.

1. Remove the hatch completely from the boat. It must be removed forward, so the mast will need to be dropped and then, the mast step.

2. Lay the hatch, inverted position, on a flat surface, somewhere that will not be necessary to move and somewhere that you don't care if the polyester from fiberglass work won't get on and ruin. I used my rocky drive-way. It was in nice weather however.

3. Place common bricks or something under each corner of the inverted hatch EDGES to support it in a fairly level position. (I know that the hatch is more than likely cracked at one of the corners, but step 4 will tell you what to do so that the whole hatch is supported.) The short edge lips actually are holding the hatch in the position you desire.

4. Now, lay a piece of 2x4 or some wooden/metal support-runner , along the slide edges on both sides and on top of the brick. Yes, under the lips of the edges. You'll have brick, wood and then, hatch, from ground up view. The slides actually rest on top of the wood. The wood is UNDER the edges and actually rest on top of the bricks making a form for the edges to lie on. You may also build 'this little form" before placing the inverted hatch on it, if you care to do some measuring. In reality, you have something solid for the hatch to lay on in a straight manner and is supported for the first part of the repair. You will have a frame built for each side by 'stacking' the board on top of the four brick. I used brick, but other objects that fit under the lip would work just fine. Anything for the wood to rest substantially on is fine.

Now, you have the hatch resting on the form and the bad part has been ground away. Go smoke a cigar or grin at how easy that was. (Except dropping the mast and you can do that in the water, if you want to.) Heck, you could do this repair job at the club or marina. It's not bad. You can do it. I did it! :)

OK, back to work.

5. You'll have fiberglass and the resin and some disposable paint brushes. (Epoxy is an overkill for this job.) Polyester is fine above the waterline. Get some at your local store, anywhere but Wal-Mart! They have us all by the b**** and we don't know it yet. I used the bias mat glass. It's the kind that has many strands crossed and looks like it is made of scrap. It is the strongest Get several of those cheap brushes with the white bristles, the disposable kinds. Get an old plastic something to mix the resin and hardner in. I took a 2 liter bottle and cut it about a fifth of the way up. Milk jug is wonderful, cut of course!

6. MIx small amounts of the resin. Cut strips of glass to lay along the old edge of the hatch. Load a brush with resin and dab the fiberglass to saturation, and make it lie down along the edge where you want to repair. I can't remember if I put anything on the wood or not to keep it from sticking to it, but if I did, it was wax paper. You'll be sanding on the new work anyhow and the wax paper will be removed then. Follow this same procedure on all places to be repaired.

Don't be greedy and lay it all over the hatch. You will only want to lap the fiberglass on the hatch edge.


7. Continue with enough fiberglass until you have built up thick build up of glass. Quarter inch? Half-inch? Enough to do the job and so you won't have to grind much, but you will grind lots off to make a good edge. You will grind off to shape later, but the nicer the job you do, the easier the grind. Dab lots with the brush and it will straighten the glass and shape it. Make sure there is enough resin to wet the glass thoroughly.

8. Let it set up. Check out the job to see if you need more glass. If not, grind/sand the work and make it nice and smooth. Try it on the boat to see how well it works. It may take more than one time. The slower you work, the better it may be????Let the experienced work faster. We don't want to botch the job, but it's easy to grind the botch off.

9. After you have the look you want with sanding or grinding, get a can of white spray paint and mask off any of the white gel areas. Spray paint the new work. You don't need any fancy paints. The spray paint will work great! You need not be concerned about using spray paint as it will be as good as anything for this job. But, be sure that what you want in looks has been achieved by sanding before painting. In any event, the edges are hard to see behind the teak slides.

I am tired of writing and won't take time to proof this. Besides, it's Saturday morning and the weather is beautiful. What am I doing inside?

Good luck and if I can help you further, my phone number and 'real email' is on the national website under Fleet 109.
This job is really not so difficult, but it will take some time is all.

Good luck,
Larry
Howard Conrad
Tulsa OK

Boat Name: H2

Model/Year: Cat 22 1983

Hull No. CTYH1653M83G

Hailing Port: Tulsa
02/06/2005 7:19 AM Pacific Time

Larry,

Your thorough description of the repair is much appreciated. Boat is in dry dock, so to speak, ( took tires off the trailer and shoehorned it in to my gargage on some used rims) and I was working on teak so hatch and slide rails are already removed. Will send you a picture when repair completed. Once again, thanks much.

Howard
Larry
Greenville, SC

Boat Name: Kemo Sabe

Model/Year: C-22 , 1973

Hull No. 2229

Hailing Port: www.keoweesailingclub.com
02/06/2005 10:08 AM Pacific Time

Howard,

I completed that repair about 3 years ago and then, another on a previous 22 in early 90's. They both worked well. Wish I had taken pictures on the last go around, but didn't have a digital camera then.

Good luck,
Larry
 
 
Miscellaneous
Catalina Direct Discussion Topics / Catalina 22 Discussion Area / Miscellaneous / Hatch Problem