Bill
Woodland, California
Boat Name: Easy Touch
Model/Year: C 22 / 1988
Hull No. 14514
Hailing Port: Lake Berryessa |
 03/21/2005 8:19 PM Pacific Time
The hand rails are in need of replacement so I bought two new teak handrails from Catalina Direct. I note that the new rails are straight, whereas the old ones have a slight arch (in two directions) to them to conform to the deck. How does one go about properly bending the teak hand rails to conform with the arch of the deck?
Bill
"Easy Touch"
Hull No.14514
Lake Berryessa, CA |
Lowell Richardson, Owner, Catalina Direct
Sacramento CA
Boat Name: Steamboat Willie
Model/Year: 1984
Hull No.
Hailing Port: Folsom Lake |
03/23/2005 12:39 AM Pacific Time
There are two steps to installing new handrails: 1) Drill mounting holes in the handrail 2) Mount the handrail properly to avoid water intrusion into the plywood deck reinforcement in the laminate.
Handrails are (and always have been) produced straight. The curve is introduced as necessary when the handrail is installed on the deck.
Locate and drill mounting holes
Since the holes in your boat were not drilled using a template, the new handrail must be drilled to match the existing holes in your boat.
1) Center the handrail pads over the area where the old handrail was installed. Have your helper hold the handrail in place. Dimple the first two pads by pushing the drill up from below. Conform your marks are in the center of the pads side to side.
2) Drill the first pad with the handrail off the boat. Attach the first pad of the handrail to the deck with a screw.
3) Drill the second hole. Work from inside the boat. Drill through the existing hole in the boat and into the center of the width of the teak pad.
4) On deck, have a helper flex the handrail as necessary to center the third pad over the third hole in the deck. Be careful you don’t introduce a twist into the handrail as it is flexed. Drill the next screw hole into the third pad. Screw in the third fastener. Continue to the fourth pad etc. Always have your helper flex the handrail the proper amount each time you drill and attach the next pad.
Remove and bed the handrail properly to avoid leaks.
1) With a pencil, draw a line on deck around the perimeter of each mounting pad. Mark the position of the handrail (PORT FWD for example) to avoid confusing their positions for final mounting.
2) Remove the screws, one at a time. The continued assistance of your helper is necessary to avoid “hogging out” the holes in the teak as the screw disengages the handrail. Hold the curve into the handrail as each screw is removed, then release the pressure gently.
3) Clean all dirt, debris, and old sealant from the deck. Old silicone sealants in particular are a problem as any silicone residue will prevent the new sealant from bonding properly to the deck.
4) Mask the deck with quality masking tape up to the lines drawn earlier. This step will avoid much cleanup labor after the job is complete.
5) Coat the entire bottom of each pad with #Z2067 Polyurethane Sealant / Adhesive.
6) Refasten the handrail to the deck as above.
Note: On some later boats, every other fastener was a through-bolt with a nut and teak plug. If you desire to match the original fastener method, you must countersink the top of the handrails to accommodate through-bolts and teak plugs.
7) Tighten the screws only slightly. Be careful to just begin squeezing the sealant out. You must leave a significant thickness of sealant between the deck and the teak (1/16" to 3/32") for the sealant to have any integrity.
8) Allow the sealant to cure overnight before final tightening.
Remove the masking tape
There are two methods of removing the masking tape and excess sealant:
1) When the sealant begins to cure, remove the tape by pulling it back on itself and away from the handrail at a 45 degree angle, thereby bringing the excess sealant with it. This method only works well if you have applied just the right amount of sealant. If there is too much excess, you will end up with sealant everywhere!
2) Others prefer to allow the sealant to cure. Then, with a sharp knife, score the sealant around the base of the handrail pads. Remove the tape and excess cured sealant. You must be patient in order to cut the sealant without scratching the deck.
Note: Our masking tape #Z2301 may be left on the boat for up to 7 days. Most masking tape must be removed the same day to avoid a major headache when you attempt to remove it. Don't leave ours on over 7 days or you will have the same problem with removal. The sooner it is removed, the easier it will be. |
Bill
Woodland, California
Boat Name: Easy Touch
Model/Year: C 22 / 1988
Hull No. 14514
Hailing Port: Lake Berryessa |
03/23/2005 7:33 PM Pacific Time
Thank you Lowell |
Jon Glendye
Somerset, MA 02725
Boat Name: DylIan
Model/Year: C-22 1969-1970 ?
Hull No. 302
Hailing Port: Fairhaven, MA |
08/11/2009 7:42 AM Pacific Time
I just ordered a replacement teak hadrail for Dylian, hull # 302, and realized that the replacement rail, considered "original" is 5 loop, while my original rails are 6 loop...Anyone else find this??? Is it just because my boat is so, um "experienced"??? |
Lynn Buchanan
Nevada City, CA
Boat Name: SAILYNN
Model/Year: SWING 1984
Hull No. 11994
Hailing Port: SCOTTS FLAT LAKE, CA |
08/12/2009 1:48 PM Pacific Time
Some people cut off one of the loops and sand the end in order to make room to add a winch. Maybe that is the case with your boat? |
Jon Glendye
Somerset, MA 02725
Boat Name: DylIan
Model/Year: C-22 1969-1970 ?
Hull No. 302
Hailing Port: Fairhaven, MA |
08/13/2009 7:47 AM Pacific Time
Hi Lynn, Are you saying that the original handrails (1969) were 6 loop, but people then modified?? And then Catalina caught on and went to a 5 loop rail??? |
Lynn Buchanan
Nevada City, CA
Boat Name: SAILYNN
Model/Year: SWING 1984
Hull No. 11994
Hailing Port: SCOTTS FLAT LAKE, CA |
08/14/2009 5:40 PM Pacific Time
I believe handrails may have been an option in 1969 and only installed by the owner or dealers for the owner. I don't know what size was standard then. Unless you know the original owner or subsequent owners it would be hard to tell where and when your handrails were installed. You can call Catalina Yachts directly and maybe get information on your boat's original configurtion if you give them the hull number and boat identification number. I have owned C22's for 23 plus years and have modified the handrails on one boat in order to add a cabin top winch. It is not uncommon to remove the handrails (serious racers do this), or have different numbers of loops depending on the owners preferance. I have seen discussions on websites about this. |
Jimmy Lotufo
New Jersey
Boat Name: brisey_h
Model/Year: C-22 1984
Hull No. 12275
Hailing Port: Alki Beach |
08/25/2009 7:00 PM Pacific Time
My Catalina 22 came with the 5th loop cut off to make room for a winch. I have to say that the previous owner did a really nice job. That area of the deck is somewhat small in area so I am guessing that was his best solution. Takes courage to cut those teak handrails.
Best,
Jimmy
|
doug Lipkin
vacaville CA
Boat Name: RowDough
Model/Year: C-22
Hull No. 024
Hailing Port: Repairs in Progress/Woodland |
04/04/2010 1:13 PM Pacific Time
Bill, If you tread this I a currently replacing the handrails (5 loop) on the RowDough, and it works well by following Lowells instructions. Coincidentally I am working on the boat in Woodland and was wondering how the sailing is on Berryessa. Any information would be appreciated Doug Lipkin [email protected] |
MIKE HARRINGTON
Birmingham
Boat Name: IRISH AYES
Model/Year: C-350
Hull No. CTYV0227B404
Hailing Port: Hoover AL |
04/04/2010 1:13 PM Pacific Time
Bill, If you tread this I a currently replacing the handrails (5 loop) on the RowDough, and it works well by following Lowells instructions. Coincidentally I am working on the boat in Woodland and was wondering how the sailing is on Berryessa. Any information would be appreciated Doug Lipkin [email protected] |
