Alan Charlotte, NC
Boat Name: My Turn
Model/Year: 1984
Hull No. C14805
Hailing Port: Charlotte |
09/07/2005 6:52 AM Pacific Time
Hello all,
I am the proud owner of a 1984 C22. It's my first "big" boat. My dad had a C22 and a C25 and rarely reefed the main. He told me how it worked, but that was many years ago and I don't remember.
Is there someone I can go on the web or catalinadirect.com that explains how to do this?
Can anyone send me some detailed instructions? Thanks so much in advance for your assistance!
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Michael Smalter Webster, NY
Boat Name: Marrakesh
Model/Year: 1986
Hull No. 13645
Hailing Port: Rochester, NY |
09/07/2005 2:24 PM Pacific Time
There is a "Catalina Maintenance " page on the internet. Paul David did a great job (with pictures) on single line reefing at this link
https://netfiles.uiuc.edu/rwahlfel/www/Single%20line%20reefing.htm
The Overall site can be found at
https://netfiles.uiuc.edu/rwahlfel/www/c22maint.htm |
Paul David Melbourne Australia
Boat Name: Reflections
Model/Year: 1986
Hull No. 13369
Hailing Port: Melbourne Australia |
09/07/2005 11:55 PM Pacific Time
Thanks for the compliments. That assumes you have single line reefing.
C22s are usually set up with jiffy reefing - where a line runs from a fixed point at the aft end of the boom (usually Port side), up through a cringle in the leech, back down to a turning block at the aft end of the boom (starboard) then forward to a cleat on the boom.
This is how I was taught to reef a small boat without single line reefing, but with jiffy reefing:
Assign someone to go forward to the mast to complete the reefing tasks. Make sure they are wearing a lifejacket or a safety harness on and clipped to a fixed point (assuming that its now rough enough to reef). Make sure they are aware that the boom may flip from side to side and that they could get hit by it.
•Helmsman heads up into a close reach.
•The person up at the mast releases the boom vang and makes sure the line can run free.
•Helmsman releases the mainsheet and makes sure the sheet can run free (this is where the boom is going to flail around and be a danger to crew) - immediately after doing this:
•The person standing up at the mast takes in on the jiffy reefing line at the boom until the aft end of the boom rises up to the reef cringle in the clew. The boom will now be at around a 30 degree angle (This step can't be done on large boats but is fine for the C22)
•The crew releases the halyard and carefully lowers the mainsail just enough to allow the reefing cringle at the sail's luff to reach and be secured to the boom. The boom will now lower to a horizontal position.
•The crew at the mast secures the reefing cringle at the gooseneck, forming a new tack, using a line from the cleats on both sides of your mast below the gooseneck.
•The crew tightens the boom vang.
•The helmsman falls off (bears away from the wind) and sheets in the main.
•The crew secures the excess sail at the foot using lines through the reefing points - just don't tie them too tight or the pressure on the sail could tear it. In fact you don't need to tie them at all but it's best to do so to prevent them from flapping around too much.
Hope this helps. Remember - reef before you need to or before you leave the dock if you think the wind is going to be strong.
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Alan Charlotte, NC
Boat Name: My Turn
Model/Year: 1984
Hull No. C14805
Hailing Port: Charlotte |
09/15/2005 11:27 AM Pacific Time
Thanks so much for taking the time to provide me with the info. By the way, Paul's sight looks great.
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Bayard Gross Greenwich, CT
Boat Name: Baby Blue
Model/Year: 1981
Hull No. 9911
Hailing Port: Greenwich, CT |
03/20/2006 5:35 PM Pacific Time
Well, Paul David. Long time no hear from you. Chip’s list is experiencing some issues right now, which is to say it an’t working right now. Hope you’ll be back there soon.
Nevertheless, for two line main reefing as I have on my boat, please see:
http://tinyurl.com/76ru6
and
http://tinyurl.com/bhfzf
Tell me Paul, do you Aussies have a harder time reefing than us northern hemisphere folks as gravity wants to pull your sail up?
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Boat Name:
Model/Year:
Hull No.
Hailing Port: |
03/21/2006 5:00 AM Pacific Time
I do everthing that Paul does with one exception. The very first thing I do is to heave too. By heaving too I am able to reef the main when I am sailing alone.
Greg |
Al Gearing Burleson, Texas
Boat Name: Torch of Freedom
Model/Year: C-22 '76
Hull No. 6448
Hailing Port: Arlington YC |
03/21/2006 2:13 PM Pacific Time
How do you heave-to? the only way I can think of is to use a sea anchor, and I haven't seen one on a boat since the some of the first big boats (47' to 83') I sailed on. Do you have a simpler way?
Al Ge |
Paul David Melbourne Australia
Boat Name: Reflections
Model/Year: 1986
Hull No. 13369
Hailing Port: Melbourne Australia |
03/21/2006 3:49 PM Pacific Time
Hi, Bayard - I'm not on Chip's site because I have been working for a company that commonly doesn't pay its bills and our internet gets disconnected. This causes problems that Chip doesn't need. I do miss all you guys though, so tell them g'day for me. By the way, I used my singlehanded reefing setup over the weekend and it worked really well. It's by the not the one described in my post above but the one illustrated in the earlier link.
Paul |
Michael Smalter Webster, NY
Boat Name: Marrakesh
Model/Year: 1986
Hull No. 13645
Hailing Port: Rochester, NY |
03/21/2006 4:53 PM Pacific Time
Al--Heaving to is really easy and useful. It works great with a 110 jib, probably less well with a 150. Tack through the wind without releasing the jib sheet, so the jib is backwinded. Let the main run free, and lash the tiller to turn into the wind. If it is done correctly, you will be doing 1-2 knots and have a very stable boat (not heeling) even if the wind is 20-35 |
Al Gearing Burleson, Texas
Boat Name: Torch of Freedom
Model/Year: C-22 '76
Hull No. 6448
Hailing Port: Arlington YC |
03/22/2006 4:36 AM Pacific Time
Wow, thanks, I've done that while waiting between races sometimes to eat lunch, but never thought of using that technique to put in a reef. This old dog has just learned something, thanks again.
Al Ge |
Michael Smalter Webster, NY
Boat Name: Marrakesh
Model/Year: 1986
Hull No. 13645
Hailing Port: Rochester, NY |
03/22/2006 3:05 PM Pacific Time
I just re-read my note. I meant 20-25 knots, not 20-35 knots. I've never had my C22 out in 35 knots and don't think I ever want to. |
Dick King Melbourne, FL
Boat Name: Twilight Zone
Model/Year: Sport/2005
Hull No. 15546
Hailing Port: Melbourne, FL |
03/23/2006 3:47 AM Pacific Time
Hi Paul David and others using his procedure. I recommend you reef the forward end first.. (Use a topping lift or boom kicker to prevent the boom from dropping when the the halyard is released to lower the reef cringle to the boom) Mark the halyard so it can be released to a given point and recleated.
THEN pull in the aft reef as Paul describes. DON'T FORGET TO EASE THE VANG A LITTLE.
If the jiffy reefing is set up properly, the aft reefing line will pull down and aft on the boom. If you reef the aft point first, the mainsail will be pulled too far aft and away from the mast and it will be difficult the pull the forward reef point directly down the mast. Done properly, the sail can be reefed in 30 seconds or less. |
Al Gearing Burleson, Texas
Boat Name: Torch of Freedom
Model/Year: C-22 '76
Hull No. 6448
Hailing Port: Arlington YC |
03/23/2006 5:34 AM Pacific Time
On 501, the PO had it setup with both lines run to the cockpit through sheet stoppers, we could pull both at the same time until the forward one was down, then because the leech was a bit longer we would have to pull it down a bit more and then re-raise the halyard. I have this one 6448 rigged with a single line which works about the same if I, the helmsman, ease the halyard at the same time. I like to reef more often than most, that way I can keep the Genny on longer and move the sheet point back to dump the head of the sail. For what it's worth,
Al Ge |
steve smith rothesay nb canada
Boat Name: all hours
Model/Year: 1975?
Hull No. 4928
Hailing Port: rothesay yacht club |
03/23/2006 7:04 AM Pacific Time
Hi all,the jiff-reef was installed on our 22 by another owner and done right.The stainless reef hook at the goose-neck and the cleat for the single line are on the same side of the boom and within arms reach of the mast and it is done in under a minute with my crew steering a steady course with the jib.Up on the halyard,in on the sheet,snug the vang.I reef with the first sign of whitecaps because it WIII have to be done later in less pleasant conditions,it can go from a comfy 12 to a stiff 18 in 10 minutes here so it's smart to be ready.
Happy reefing..
Oh yes,if using a reef hook at the goose neck ,fashion a loop'n knot type gizmo(many was to do it) in the sail cringle to loop over the hook preventing a hole in the sail and it is faster than wrestling the sail into a position to prevent a tear. |
Boat Name:
Model/Year:
Hull No.
Hailing Port: |
03/23/2006 1:07 PM Pacific Time
has anyone set up a single line to somehow split so it can pull down the main at both ends of the boom?
Thanks,
Butchie |
Michael Smalter Webster, NY
Boat Name: Marrakesh
Model/Year: 1986
Hull No. 13645
Hailing Port: Rochester, NY |
03/23/2006 3:24 PM Pacific Time
Here is how Paul David did the truly single line reef:
https://netfiles.uiuc.edu/rwahlfel/www/Single%20line%20reefing.htm
I did the same on my boat. It works great. I can reef the main without leaving the cockpit. |
Boat Name:
Model/Year:
Hull No.
Hailing Port: |
03/23/2006 4:13 PM Pacific Time
Awesome! This is just what I was looking for.
Thank you Mike!
Butchie |
Greg Baker Charlotte, NC
Boat Name: Sea Sharp Minor
Model/Year: Catalina 22 - 1984 - Swing Keel
Hull No. 11823
Hailing Port: Lake Norman Sailing Club |
03/24/2006 8:19 AM Pacific Time
While I was looking at the excellent description of the single line reefing system on Paul David's web page, it struck me that there might be a modification that would simplify the set up and still be accessable from the cockpit. Suppose the reefing line were attached to the boom in the area of the gooseneck instead of going down to the block at the base of the mast. Then a pair of cheek blocks were added on the mast a few inches apart near the middle of the mast and near the reefing cleat. It would then seem that while luffed up, from the hatch one could reach the reefing line near the middle of the boom, making a loop between the added blocks and haul in the reef from there. Then cleat the loop to hold the reef. Has anyone tried anything like that?
Greg Baker |
Michael Smalter Webster, NY
Boat Name: Marrakesh
Model/Year: 1986
Hull No. 13645
Hailing Port: Rochester, NY |
03/24/2006 2:39 PM Pacific Time
Are you assuming that the boom is centered over the companionway? The main needs to be free in order to reef it easily. My experience is that the boom is usually 45 degrees off centerline when I reef, and any attachments mid-boom may be hard to reach. |
Al Gearing Burleson, Texas
Boat Name: Torch of Freedom
Model/Year: C-22 '76
Hull No. 6448
Hailing Port: Arlington YC |
03/25/2006 5:14 AM Pacific Time
Greg,
It seems to me that you are exchanging standing/working in the hatch for working in the cockpit and the tie-off would be less favorable to having a sheet stopper on the top of the cabin.
Al Ge |
Greg Baker Charlotte, NC
Boat Name: Sea Sharp Minor
Model/Year: Catalina 22 - 1984 - Swing Keel
Hull No. 11823
Hailing Port: Lake Norman Sailing Club |
03/25/2006 6:53 AM Pacific Time
I agree that the system described to lead everything to the cockpit is best. But my current system is the standard one where the aft portion of the sail is cleated mid-boom when reefing and the forward portion is cleated at the base of the mast. So I am crawling around on the cabin top to get in the reef. It seems I could convert to a mid boom reefing system by just adding a couple of blocks to the boom and if it would work, get it all done from the companionway. I agree I would have to head up to be able to reach the boom cleat but that is pretty much the case now.
Greg Baker |
Paul David Melbourne Australia
Boat Name: Reflections
Model/Year: 1986
Hull No. 13369
Hailing Port: Melbourne Australia |
03/26/2006 5:08 PM Pacific Time
While everyone is focusing on reefing, note that I use the same lines and hardware as a cunningham. I just move the s hook down from the reef cringle to the cunningham cringle, and tie off the line (that normally runs free between the clew cringle and the gooseneck) at the cleat on the boom just aft of the gooseneck. You can then control the cunningham from the cockpit.
When Dick noted that we should reef the tack end first, I assume he's referring to the conventional reefing procedure and not single line reefing. I'd suggest trying both ways first to see what works best for you. Reefing the clew first means the boom raises up to the reefing clew first and is out of the way of the crew. Reefing the tack first means the boom drops into the cockpit or lashes around during the procedure.
Paul
Paul |
Al Gearing Burleson, Texas
Boat Name: Torch of Freedom
Model/Year: C-22/'76
Hull No. 6448
Hailing Port: Arlington YC |
03/26/2006 11:52 PM Pacific Time
Both of the boats I have had, had boom kickers to hold the boom up without the sail or topping lift holding it. They are easy and inexpensive to make or buy, a real aid.
Al Ge |
Dick King Melbourne, FL
Boat Name: Twilight Zone
Model/Year: Sport/2005
Hull No. 15546
Hailing Port: Melbourne, FL |
03/27/2006 6:42 AM Pacific Time
A point of clarification if I may. My reefing comments WERE about jiffy reefing. (where there is a forward and and an aft reef line to pull in. If the aft line is installed properly, not only does it pull the aft reef cringle and the boom together, it also acts as an outhaul to help flatten the reefed main. If the main halyard is lowered to a predetermined mark (so that the reef cringle is still slightly above the boom) then the foreward reef line also acts as a cunningham to stretch the luff and pull the draft of the reefed main forward as far as possible.
If the aft reef is done first, the "foot" of the reefed main will pull to far aft, since it is not "tacked" at the mast by the forward reef line which should be pulling straight down on the luff. THAT is why the forward reef should be applied first. |
Al Gearing Burleson, Texas
Boat Name: Torch of Freedom
Model/Year: C-22 '76
Hull No. 6448
Hailing Port: Arlington YC |
03/28/2006 7:48 AM Pacific Time
I haven't reefed on this boat, 6448 yet, except for practice in moderate air. I remember on 11660 the single line reef was a bit harder because there was so much line to pull in, it worked but then 501 was rigged with two lines and I think that was easier and quicker. After reading this discussion I think I will change the single line reef on 6448 to a two line arrangement. Both led to the cockpit of course. For what it's worth.
Al Ge |
Paul David Melbourne Australia
Boat Name: Reflections
Model/Year: 1986
Hull No. 13369
Hailing Port: Melbourne Australia |
03/28/2006 1:55 PM Pacific Time
Aha. Now I get it, Dick.
Paul |