Patrick O'Brien
Colden, NY
Boat Name: Stardust
Model/Year: Cat 22 1977
Hull No. 6755
Hailing Port: Buffalo NY |
 01/19/2004 6:30 PM Pacific Time
Any input on decent (cost effective) roller furling for the C22? My partner feels it critical equipment....I'm not so sure. Any thoughts appreciated.
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Michael Smalter
Webster, NY
Boat Name: Marrakesh
Model/Year: 1986
Hull No. 13645
Hailing Port: Rochester, NY |
01/19/2004 10:28 PM Pacific Time
There are several roller furling systems available for about $400. I have the Schaeffer Snap-Furl and love it, but there are others inthe same price range. Then you have to decide whether to get your old jib fit with a wire or buy new (another $400 or more).
The furlers are great. In medium wind you can be lazy and not raise the main at all. In stronger winds you can change from a 150 to a 135 or 110 and back to a 150 as the wind cycles, all in seconds from the cockpit. My wife is a somewhat timid sailor, and is much more comfortable in strong wind with the ability to change sail area quickly. |
Paul David
Melbourne Australia
Boat Name: Reflections
Model/Year: 1986
Hull No. 13369
Hailing Port: Melbourne Australia |
01/19/2004 11:58 PM Pacific Time
Again the need depends on the motive. If it's "critical" because your partner wants to drop the sail quickly, you could rig a line from the top of a hanked jib to the cockpit - releasing the halyard and pulling in on the line allows you to get the sail down quickly without having to go forward.
That was one of the best upgrades I've done on Reflections, and I learned it here. I simply have a bowline tied into the top hank, the line running free down to a turning block at the bow, then through a couple blocks at the stanchions for fairleads. Whole installation was pocket change.
Though I would like a furler it's not on my priority list due to the cost and since I already have three good hanked headsails. It's also a bit messier raising and lowering the mast, so I'm told. Some people say that the hanked sails set better at different sizes than a partially furled 150.
Paul David
Reflections 13369
Melbourne Australia |
Michael Smalter
Webster, NY
Boat Name: Marrakesh
Model/Year: 1986
Hull No. 13645
Hailing Port: Rochester, NY |
01/20/2004 4:29 PM Pacific Time
Paul, I agree about the added bother raising the mast with roller furling. I'm glad I keep my boat in the water. I used to have hank on sails (a 150, 110, and storm jib). I find that for cruising/daysailing, the furled sail works fine. I frequently use the 150 furled to 110 without problems, and have used it even smaller on the way back to the dock when the wind kicked up. |
Bob Moore
Stamford CT
Boat Name: Time Out
Model/Year: 22- 1983
Hull No.
Hailing Port: Stamford CT |
02/28/2004 2:38 PM Pacific Time
Patrick,
A couple of years ago I installed a Schaeffer roller furling package on my 22. I frequently sail single handed and would not be without one from a safety standpoint. It always seemed that whenever the wind came up and I switched to a 110, the wind would die and I would be changing sails again. The whole package cost about $1000 but included a sail that, while in good condidtion after 4 seasons, the UV material is shot and needs to be replaced. The moral; get a good sail to begin with. |
Boat Name:
Model/Year:
Hull No.
Hailing Port: |
02/28/2004 5:02 PM Pacific Time
I am installing a roller furling system on my '82 c22. Does anyone know the pin to pin length of the forestay with the turnbuckle at mid position? Knowing this dimension could save me from unstepping the mast. TIA |
Michael Smalter
Webster, NY
Boat Name: Marrakesh
Model/Year: 1986
Hull No. 13645
Hailing Port: Rochester, NY |
02/28/2004 6:32 PM Pacific Time
The forestay length differs in the <=1985 boats and >=1986 boats. My 1986 manual says it is 26"5.5" from the middle of the eye to the end of the stud. The technical manual says the forestay is 26"2", which I assume is for a <=1985, but it doesn't indicate where they are measuring to.
Which furling system are you getting? I installed the Schaeffer Snap-Furl and measured the length by hooking a 50ft rule to the jib halyard and raising it full hoist. |
Boat Name:
Model/Year:
Hull No.
Hailing Port: |
02/29/2004 4:51 AM Pacific Time
Michael, Thanks for the numbers. I'll be installing a CDI-FF2 on my c22.
Weather permitting today I will hoist a 50' tape to get a reading. I just wanted to compare the measurement with others.................Any others???
It's kinda critical you kmow.
Richard |
Michael Smalter
Webster, NY
Boat Name: Marrakesh
Model/Year: 1986
Hull No. 13645
Hailing Port: Rochester, NY |
02/29/2004 5:37 AM Pacific Time
I don't know how critical the dimension is for the CDI, but if it is very critical as you say, why don't you drop the mast and be absolutely sure. If you use the 50ft tape, be sure to include any distance between the top of the knot and the attachment point of the tape. |
Bob Keim
Nashville
Boat Name: Pursuit
Model/Year: C22/1976
Hull No.
Hailing Port: Nashville |
02/29/2004 8:22 AM Pacific Time
The CDI should come with a track that is longer than needed so you can cut it to the specific length of your boat. I highly recommend dropping your mast so you can slid the track onto your forestay and put the headsail into the track to mark the actual length. , I think the critical measurements are:
1) The distance between fittings must be longer than your foresail's luff to insure some space to adjust the draft of your sail.
2) It must be shorter than the length of your forestay so it will fit.
CDI support is fantastic! The jib halyard rubbed through the fitting at the top on mine. I called the factory for a replacement after hours one night and the man answering the phone said, "We've redesigned that part so it won't happen again. Give me your mailing address and I'll send you one of the new ones." A few days later it arrived in the mail. No questions about warranty registration, date of purchase or anything, just chit-chat about my boat and if I thought the unit could be improved. It's a lifetime warranty they stand behind!
Be sure to lube the track with some Teflon every time you raise or lower your sail. It will make hauling it much easier. Have a line available to make fast to the tail of the halyard since it is not long enough to allow removal and hoisting of the sail by itself. Your existing jib halyard should be used for a protective cover so your sail is not ruined by UV. Of course the protective cover can be used to protect the sail when trailering too. It's a lot easier to leave the sail on the forstay when trailering than taking it on and off since the CDI unit is attached to the shackle with an eye strap.
Be sure to saftey wire your forestay turnbuckle! Since it will be inside the roller furling unit it will need help resisting unscrewing every time you furl/unfurl. My experience says about 75 cycles is what it takes to cause an unexpected mast lowering! An adjustable backstay will make raising and lowering the mast much easier.
As said before, sailing with a less expensive furler will hurt perfromance somewhat (the CDI has a thick track that can kill low wind performance, if it doesn't rotate with the sail). But the trade offs for a cruising boat (especially one single handed a lot) are hard to ignore. |
Chip Lee
Utica, NY
Boat Name: Martha Pearl
Model/Year: 1980 C-22
Hull No. #9742
Hailing Port: Black River Bay, NY |
02/29/2004 9:40 AM Pacific Time
Speaking of furling systems, does anyone have experience with more than one manufacturer? There is a wide of prices for these puppies, so I'd like to know what the relative trade-offs are, like which is easier when raising the mast, which gives better sail shape partially furled, etc.
Any advice/comments would be greatly appreciated.
Chip Lee |
Bayard Gross
Greenwich, CT
Boat Name: Baby Blue
Model/Year: 1981
Hull No. 9911
Hailing Port: Greenwich, CT |
03/03/2004 4:43 PM Pacific Time
Some brief personal views about a few different furlers
CDI
generally the least expensive
has an internal halyard, similar in operation to the main halyard on the mast; this eliminates any halyard wrap problems, a problem common with other furlers
ball bearings are an option on the smaller units, however, on boats under about twenty-five feet, this option is not necessary, but desirable on larger boats
extrusion, unlike nearly all other furlers (except possibly for a Harken unit that is no longer readily available although I think Catalina Direct may still offer it) is a single piece which makes it excellent for use with a backstay adjuster in that the extrusion will not suffer the cracks that an extrusion that is pieced together may suffer when the adjuster is loosened
the supplied halyard line is too stretchy for my tastes, not to mention that at the bottom only the cover of the halyard is employed to attach to the drum; I replaced this halyard with quarter inch technora-spectra blend with polyester cover and then cut an opening on the bottom of the extrusion (similar to the sail tape insert slot) so both the cover and core could be extracted from the extrusion and then secured to the drum; in this way I obtain the low stretch of the technora-sprectra core throughout the halyard; further, I secure the halyard by running it down from the extrusion, through a small block attached to the shackle on the bottom of the furler, and then back up along itself where it is secured with a stainless steel wire clamp over the downward and upward sides of the halyard; I believe that CDI originally used a cleat for securing the halyard and I believe there is sufficient room on the inside of the FF2 for nuts to secure a thru-bolted cleat from the outside, but I personally have not tried this yet
the tack securing line supplied is also poor; I replaced this with about a five inch piece of 1/8 inch 7X19 stainless steel wire with swagged loops with thimbles on each end that then is attached to the sail tack and the furler drum with shackles
it uses the more common standard #6 or 3/16 inch luff tape (as opposed to the smaller #5), which is admirable for a furler used on small boats as this makes it easier to use a used jib that will probably have a #6 luff tape on it
unfortunately, you will probably be required to use a 3/16 furling line on sails greater than 110%; one could decore several feet of the part of a thicker line that wraps around the drum, but as that would leave just a stretchy polyester cover when the sail is fully deployed and as such maybe stretch too much when the sheets are hauled in tight with winches on a beat
Profurl
has what is called a “wrapstop” feature which eliminates halyard wrap; however, I understand that this may require a pennant and failure to add this pennant may damage the forestay
different length link plates may be used at the bottom to achieve clearance over anchors, etc.
the extrusion has two grooves, so the furler may be used for quick sail changes while racing
for a C-22, this unit is pricy, costing new almost four times as other furlers
Schaefer Snap Furl
as this is as inexpensive as the CDI, it is a popular choice for small boats like the C-22
the extrusion is two pieces “snapped” together over the forestay; this may or may not be a problem when used with a backstay adjuster as the extrusion may crack open when the backstay adjuster is loosened
the luff tape size is #5, which is smaller than the more common #6; this may make it difficult to find a used jib that has the more common #6 tape, or at least such a jib will need the #6 tape removed and a number five installed
only one sail groove, so racing use is limited
has bearings (unlike the CDI FF2)
Harken
Harken makes a number of different sized units; for the C-22 which has a forestay of 1/8 inch, I believe the unit used is the #00AL or model 110, this is subject to more updated designations
the extrusion has two grooves which, like the Profurl, allows quick sail changes while racing
the drum is removable for racing as well, a fairly unique feature found primarily just on Harken units
it uses the common #6 luff tape
the major difficulty with the Harken, unlike the Schaefer Snap Furl and CDI, is that the forestay must be cut to install the unit; however, a new forestay properly set up, can be purchased in place of working with the details of cutting down the existing forestay; this item either as additional time and work or expense, makes the Harken, along with its higher cost, not as popular for smaller boats like the C-22 where owners are more cost and ease of owner installation conscience
for those participating in PHRF or club style racing which rules may generally be mute about forestay airfoils (the C-22 National Sailing Association does not permit them), the Harken is an excellent choice
I have only lightly mentioned four manufacturers. There are several more. The bottom line is one must do considerable research when purchasing a furler, as they all have various strengths and weaknesses. Just about anyone, including myself, will tell you that their furler is fine. But what is fine for one, may not be fine for another. In my opinion, it is important that one well understand the engineering, design, features, and operation of each furler considered for selection.
|
Scott Sauve
Newmarket, NH
Boat Name: LaVoile
Model/Year: 1989 Wing Keel
Hull No. 14609
Hailing Port: Sunset Marina-Portland, ME |
03/03/2004 9:38 PM Pacific Time
First...very nice overview of the furlers.
I have the Snap Furl.
It is a very nice unit. It does require the "halyard Restrainer" to prevent wrap. I have an adjustable backstay and there is no problem with any extrusion seperation. I had new sales made last year so the different luff tape size was not a problem.
I prefer it to the CDI furler which I replaced. Snap Furl has a round foil and the CDI has a "flat" foil which tends to put "folds" in the sail when furled. I did not like the halyard setup on the CDI. It tended to compress the foil, giving it a number of "s" waves in the foil that did not come out when the backstay was tensioned. Snap Furl puts tension on the luff of the sail and not on the luff extrusion.
Furling is easy due to the bearings on the top and bottom of the unit. I also like having the genoa halyard led aft to the cockpit, rather than going forward to amke adjustments like on the CDI, |
Chip Ford
Marblehead, MA
Boat Name: Chip Ahoy
Model/Year: 1974-Swing Keel
Hull No. CTY032820374
Hailing Port: Marblehead, Mass. |
03/04/2004 1:59 AM Pacific Time
I agree with Scott, very good general overview of furlers, Baynard, very helpful.
I just put down an $800 deposit on a Furlex 100S system with a sailmaker friend who swears by Furlex. I have zero experience with furling systems so have put my trust in Josh's hands, who I've known for about 20 years (I used to share space in his sail loft when I was doing sign-painting/boat-lettering back then). He's going to take care of everything -- ready to sail -- for $1,200. Converting my jib and genoa are included.
The one Furlex feature I find most unusual is that it uses no turnbuckle, has no adjustment. The forestay must be cut (replaced in my case) exactly to size after an exact measurement is taken. Josh is coming over soon and we've got to raise the mast, tune the rigging, he'll take his measurement, then we'll lower the mast again. All adjustment is made with the backstay. Josh tells me Furlex doesn't need a foam luff, which he said is an advantage.
He wants to wait until next year to install the UV protection (?) so this season's negligible aging will give him an exact mark.
I got some positive feedback on Furlex from this (the old) list some time back, so between that and Josh's experience, I'm reasonably comfortable with my decision -- but having no experience with furling, am learning only in the abstract. What I can find to read and most of what I've read is -- abstract. With nothing to compare various advantages and disadvantages with this first time around, I guess trusting Josh's knowledge is the best I can do until I get some hands-on "reverse engineering" experience of my own.
Of course, that will only belatedly tell me if I got lucky or could have done better!
Chip Ford --
Marblehead, Mass.
1974 C22 #3282 - "Chip Ahoy"
http://cltg.org/chip_ahoy/
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Boat Name:
Model/Year:
Hull No.
Hailing Port: |
03/04/2004 6:32 AM Pacific Time
Chip, I am sure you will enjoy your Furlex system. I had a Furlex on a Ericson 27 some years back and it gave no trouble. It is made in Sweden and available in the US from Selden Mast Inc. of Charleston, SC. For info and a manual try www.seldenmast.com Richard |
Chip Lee
Utica, NY
Boat Name: Martha Pearl
Model/Year: 1980 C-22
Hull No. #9742
Hailing Port: Black River Bay, NY |
03/04/2004 1:25 PM Pacific Time
Gentlemen: Thanks very much for the detailed info. There is so much to absorb here I think I may have to put together a spreadsheet to sort things out.
It sounds like everyone has an adjustable backstay except for me. I used to have one on my PY23, but haven't got to it yet for the C22. I take it that furlers are much more difficult in mast stepping/unstepping without one. You can't just back off the backstay turnbuckle a few turns? Must be you need a lot of slack to attach these things. If so, does a standard block-tensioning harness work for these or should I be looking at a lever or cylinder system?
Keep talking if you care to, and I'll just lurk in the background and learn - thanks again.
Chip Lee |
Dick King
Melbourne, FL
Boat Name: Twilight Zone
Model/Year: Sport/2005
Hull No. 15546
Hailing Port: Melbourne, FL |
03/04/2004 2:08 PM Pacific Time
A twelve part backstay tensioner works just fine. I gives you plenty of tension when it is on and plenty of slack when it is off. |
Dick King
Melbourne, FL
Boat Name: Twilight Zone
Model/Year: Sport/2005
Hull No. 15546
Hailing Port: Melbourne, FL |
03/04/2004 7:38 PM Pacific Time
Sorry- I misspoke myself above. I should have said a 12-1 mechanical advantage system. It is a 6 part block and tackle connected between the transom and a wire that goes through a wire block on the lower end of a cut off backstay. The lower end of the back stay is about boom height. |
Chip Lee
Utica, NY
Boat Name: Martha Pearl
Model/Year: 1980 C-22
Hull No. #9742
Hailing Port: Black River Bay, NY |
03/04/2004 9:21 PM Pacific Time
Glad to hear that, Dick. That's the kind I had on the PY23, and it's easy to retrofit 'cause it doesn't change the length of the stay.
Thanks for the info. |
Eric Lardner
Plano, TX
Boat Name: still no name - maybe someday
Model/Year: 1984
Hull No. 12479
Hailing Port: Mill Creek Marina - Locust, TX |
03/16/2004 11:17 AM Pacific Time
Does anyone have any experience using a Harken 436 furling system on a C22? A picture of the furler can be seen at http://harkenstore.com/uniface.urd/scpdinw1.ShowProd?B4RPMEB9Y9CLEW
This is the type of furler that requires a luff wire be installed in the luff of the headsail and does not require a foil.
I'm curious how well the system would allow for reefing a 150 genoa and if anyone has had any experience good or bad.
Thanks in advance for any feedback.
Eric Lardner
Plano, TX
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Boat Name:
Model/Year:
Hull No.
Hailing Port: |
04/20/2004 4:47 AM Pacific Time
I have a 76 C22 (6334) which has the non adjustable backstay off to the side. When I bought the boat it came with several sails (mostly bad shape) but also has a Harken roller furler. I know the drum connects at the base but it has a piece at the top that I can't figure out. It has a stem fitting at right angles to the sail. I see no place to connect it at the top of the mast. If someone would contact me with their email I'd send them a picture I took of the part. I don't know if the last owner used the sail as they knew nothing about sailing when they got the boat and found there was more to it than they realized - hence the reason for selling the boat. I have completely rebuilt the boat and have it ready for the water except for this frustrating furler. My other foresails are not too good so that's why I'd like to try this - as well as the convenience.
My email is [email protected]. |
Michael Smalter
Webster, NY
Boat Name: Marrakesh
Model/Year: 1986
Hull No. 13645
Hailing Port: Rochester, NY |
04/20/2004 2:02 PM Pacific Time
Trying looking at the Harken website to see which model you have. The blowup of the parts might show you what you have, and if you determine the model number, you could ask Harken for advice or a manual. |
Boat Name:
Model/Year:
Hull No.
Hailing Port: |
04/22/2004 11:57 AM Pacific Time
I use a CDI FF-2 and I don't see why anyone would need anything more expensive as it works great and has had no problems in 3 years on the boat. However one item I didn't see mentioned here, Catalina Direct recommends a forestay with a toggle at the top to stop forestay twisting when using a furler. So if your forestay doesn't have the toggle I'd order a new one from CD.
oldbees |
Scott Sauve
Newmarket, NH
Boat Name: LaVoile
Model/Year: 1989 Wing Keel
Hull No. 14609
Hailing Port: Sunset Marina-Portland, ME |
05/26/2004 3:00 PM Pacific Time
Chip:
Rather than add a UV protector, why not think about a "Jib Sock" I have one and I use the spinnaker halyard to raise the the sock. It has a zipper the entire length if the sock. Just attach the halyard, start the zipper and it zips as you raise the sock. There is a second zipper head that starts from the bottom. The top zipper comes down to the jib sheets and the bottom zipper raises up to the jib sheets. Works great and protects the sail 100%.
Scott |
Jim Bailey
Hesperia, California
Boat Name: Sailing Free
Model/Year: C-22 1973
Hull No. 2371
Hailing Port: Dana Point, California |
12/14/2005 8:57 PM Pacific Time
Hello: I am considering installing a roller furler on my C-22 swing keel. I always trailer the boat and I am concerned about setting up at the dock.
Do you feel it is worth it to put a roller furler on a boat that is trailered?? Or should I just get some very good hank on sails?
Thanks. JIM BAILEY |
Bayard Gross
Greenwich, CT
Boat Name: Baby Blue
Model/Year: 1981
Hull No. 9911
Hailing Port: Greenwich, CT |
12/16/2005 8:37 PM Pacific Time
Jim:
Roller furling for a trailered boat? Maybe.
First, the luff of a furling headsail will always be less than the maximum luff of a hank on sail due to the pin to pin deduction of the furler.
For a Catalina 22, the maximum luff for a genoa is about 26 feet 4 inches. However, the maximum luff for a furling genoa on a Catalina 22 is about 25 feet. So, while the LP of a furling headsail may be the same as that for a hank on sail, the furling sail will be smaller and thereby not as powerful.
However, a furling sail can be reefed and then deployed quickly. One can reef down to beat and then unfurl the sail when running. Very speedy headsail changing if one is willing to loose some luff length. A possible, though unlikely, advantage if racing.
For trailering, I think only the CDI is robust enough to take the punishment that trailering will mesh out. But that particular furler has some deficiencies that I corrected on mine which you can see at: http://tinyurl.com/cexty
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Michael Smalter
Webster, NY
Boat Name: Marrakesh
Model/Year: 1986
Hull No. 13645
Hailing Port: Rochester, NY |
12/17/2005 6:33 AM Pacific Time
I have the Schaeffer Snap Furl on my boat, which is kept in a slip. It is a plastic (flexible) furler, and should trailer OK. However the weight of the furler on the headstay makes raising the mast a little more difficult/awkward.
If you trailer sail and keep the sail on the furler, the weight is increased even more. If you remove the sail from the furler at the end of every day and rethread it every sail, you are losing some of the benefit of the furler.
How many trailer sailors out their have roller furling? |
Peter
Stamford, CT
Boat Name: Au Contraire
Model/Year: Catalina 22 1986
Hull No. 13325
Hailing Port: Stamford |
12/18/2005 8:08 AM Pacific Time
I love my Harken Furler. But, I definitely would not get the Harken Furler it if I were trailering my boat.
It would be a pain in the neck raising and lowering the mast. I would worry about the furler bending during transportation. And, there are other minor nuisances.
That's my 2 cents worth... |
Russ Wahlers
Muncie, IN
Boat Name: Spindrift
Model/Year: C22 1988
Hull No. 14410
Hailing Port: Muncie Sailing Club |
12/19/2005 5:30 AM Pacific Time
Here's another 2 cents worth. I have a CDI furler and am very satisfied. I slip all through the season and only trailer twice yearly - once at beginning and once at end of season. My storage location (family farm) is 200 miles via interstate from my slip, so I'm pretty careful preparing to trailer. Even though the CDI furler is virtually bullet proof, I use a 5-foot wooden stiffening splint bungeed tightly between the furler and mast to keep the otherwise unsupported furler head from bouncing around during transit. Works great. After watching the furler head bounce around in the wind the one year I didn't lash it down to mast with a splint, I can't imagine not doing so if I trailered frequently.
Happy Holidays! |
Bob Conway
Huber Heights, Ohio
Boat Name: Spindrift
Model/Year: C22/1979
Hull No. #8717
Hailing Port: Buck Creek, Ohio |
04/04/2006 6:18 AM Pacific Time
I have a question on trailering with a roller furler. I have a CDI roller furler. With the boat on the trailer, the fuller extends close to three feet past the end of the mast once it is stowed long the top of the boat for traveling. I am curious as to what methods others have used to support that last section of the furler.
Bob |
Rod Troester
Erie, PA
Boat Name: Sabbatical
Model/Year: 1978
Hull No. 8219
Hailing Port: Erie |
04/04/2006 1:44 PM Pacific Time
While this discussion is fresh is people's mind, I'd like to know where people are buying furling sails. I have a CDI furler ready to install once the weather breaks. Given the age of my hank-on jib, I decided to purchase a new 135 or 150 genoa. There are lots of suppliers, Catalina Direct, Sail warehouse, National, etc. Any advice, suggestions, and experience with the "off the shelf" approach would be welcome. |
Michael Smalter
Webster, NY
Boat Name: Marrakesh
Model/Year: 1986
Hull No. 13645
Hailing Port: Rochester, NY |
04/04/2006 2:34 PM Pacific Time
Bob, regarding how to store the furler on the trailer: I curve the furler from the top of the mast (which overhangs the stern pulpit a few feet) to the starboard stanchion amidships, to the bow pulpit. Then I tie the furling unit to the bottom of the mast which is resting on the bow pulpit. Works great. Be careful not to kink the forestay at the top of the mast, as the furler can put some weight on it. |
William Bell
Pt. Orange, FL
Boat Name: Phoenix
Model/Year: 1987 Catalina 22
Hull No. #13784
Hailing Port: Pt. Orange,FL |
04/05/2006 8:20 AM Pacific Time
Mike,
Do you have a CDI furler ? if so could you send me a pic of how you store it on your boat? CDI, in their manual have a statement about using a 2x4 (or words to that effect) to support the drum. I have the impression they wanted the furler to be tied to the mast. I guess to prevent putting any sort of bend to the luff track.
Thanks,
Bill Bell
#13784 Phoenix
wbellcyber at netscape.net |
Bob Conway
Huber Heights, Ohio
Boat Name: Spindrift
Model/Year: C22/1979
Hull No. #8717
Hailing Port: Buck Creek, Ohio |
04/05/2006 9:37 AM Pacific Time
Mike,
If you have a picture like Bill was asking for, I'd like a copy too.
My email address is:[email protected]
Thanks,
Bob |
Michael Smalter
Webster, NY
Boat Name: Marrakesh
Model/Year: 1986
Hull No. 13645
Hailing Port: Rochester, NY |
04/05/2006 4:49 PM Pacific Time
I have a Schaeffer Snap-Furl. You can see pictures of the way I store it on the trailer at
http://photos.yahoo.com/msmalter
Look in the Snap-Furl folder.
For those of you who wonder, the wooden structure on the bow pulpit is the support for a home made anchor roller. |
Bob Conway
Huber Heights, Ohio
Boat Name: Spindrift
Model/Year: C22/1979
Hull No. #8717
Hailing Port: Buck Creek, Ohio |
04/05/2006 5:22 PM Pacific Time
Mike,
Thanks!
Bob |
larry scarborough
Corpus Christi, TX
Boat Name: Jole Blon
Model/Year: Catalina30TR MkII 1984
Hull No. 3414
Hailing Port: Corpus Christi TX |
01/03/2022 6:34 AM Pacific Time
Hi all. Very old post but the content is still useful. Great information about CDI furling in general. A million thanks to Bayard for explaining that he modified the foil to have a wide slot for the halyard to slide out above the drum. I had an idea to create a wider mouth in the foil for that purpose, when I was in the process of changing the halyard on a Catalina 22 in the water at the dock, mast up. Reading in this forum, was a great help. Now it's done. This makes it simple to raise, remove the sail . |
LYDIE Baillie
INDIAN ROCKS BEACH, Florida
Boat Name: D'Artagnan
Model/Year: C22 1976
Hull No.
Hailing Port: Brest , France |
01/03/2022 6:34 AM Pacific Time
Hi all. Very old post but the content is still useful. Great information about CDI furling in general. A million thanks to Bayard for explaining that he modified the foil to have a wide slot for the halyard to slide out above the drum. I had an idea to create a wider mouth in the foil for that purpose, when I was in the process of changing the halyard on a Catalina 22 in the water at the dock, mast up. Reading in this forum, was a great help. Now it's done. This makes it simple to raise, remove the sail . |
