Sean Madian
Portland, OR
Boat Name: Time Out
Model/Year: 1973
Hull No. CL 3839 FX
Hailing Port: Portland |
 10/02/2005 12:01 PM Pacific Time
I really need some help. My C-22's (hull #2485) fore hatch leaks. I've discovered two problems. In this case, the hatch has a flange that rises from the deck.
First, the hatch does not fit snug to the flange. The previous owner used mountains of foam tape to fill the gaps. After removing this I found that there is daylight clearly visible between the bottom of the hatch and the top of the flange. In some cases there's upwards of 1/4". Loading the gap with foam tape seems like a half-assed way to approach this at best.
Second, there appears to be a crack between the deck and the flange itself. I think this is allowing for water to leach into the space and work its way into the v-berth. I could probably seal it with caulk or something but again this seems half-assed.
To make matters worse, the PO riveted a retaining plate to the inside of the hatch and then added some funky fiberglass on top of it. The hinges are pretty shoot too.
Should I just buy the Catalina replacement kit for $394??? Outch! |
Uwe Behrendt
Rutland Vermont
Boat Name: Joyful
Model/Year: 1977 C22
Hull No. 7200
Hailing Port: Plunder Bay Orwell VT |
10/03/2005 3:16 AM Pacific Time
I used an automotive door gasket on mine it works fine
a new set of hinges in the rear may also help and make sure the hatch support brackets arnt bent
Uwe |
Al Gearing
Burleson, Texas
Boat Name: Torch of Freedom
Model/Year: C-22/'76
Hull No. 6448
Hailing Port: Arlington YC |
10/03/2005 5:06 AM Pacific Time
I try to fit the hatch snug, with the hinges un-attached. That way you can get the fit without the hinges raising the back end, or being miss aligned. Then with new hinges, attached to the hatch, carefully build up if you have to, the deck pad so that they fit without being pulled down or up.
On #501, I had a piece of 5/8" rope that I carefully epoxied in place, after checking the fit. I kind of liked the quiet 'plop' it had when it closed. Never had green water to know if it would leak, but it was nice to stand on too.
Al Ge |
Marie Musolino
Nags Head, NC
Boat Name: Reality Check
Model/Year: Catalina 22 / 1977/Swing Keel
Hull No. 6869
Hailing Port: Nags Head NC |
10/03/2005 8:29 AM Pacific Time
Al, did you epoxy the rope on top of the flange, to the underside of the hatch, or where the deck/flange come together? Interesting idea to soften the bang when it closes. |
Sean Madian
Portland, OR
Boat Name: Time Out
Model/Year: 1973
Hull No. CL 3839 FX
Hailing Port: Portland |
10/03/2005 11:15 AM Pacific Time
All -- Interesting ideas. I'd been starting with the assumption that the hinges were a done deal. IF I simply remove them and reseat the hatch then I have something that I can work with. In fact, I suppose I could even build up a seal under the hatch, put it into place and then build up a bit of epoxy or wood for the hinges to screw in to (they could also be attached to the "top" rather than the side thereby giving me more hatch to work with to attach them). Great ideas guys! |
Al Gearing
Burleson, Texas
Boat Name: Torch of Freedom
Model/Year: C-22 '76
Hull No. 6448
Hailing Port: Arlington YC |
10/04/2005 10:18 AM Pacific Time
Marie, I carefully taped the rope in place on top of the flange, then put thickened epoxy on the under side of the hatch, so it would not run. Then set the hatch on top of it by starting where the hinges would be for alignment. It did not look beautiful when open, but then again, it is not open very long, just for getting sheets an sails out on the fore deck.
Al Ge |
Sean Madian
Portland, OR
Boat Name: Time Out
Model/Year: 1973
Hull No. CL 3839 FX
Hailing Port: Portland |
10/04/2005 2:13 PM Pacific Time
Al/Marie -- FYI, I spoke w/CD this morning. Turns out that there are solutions for sale (aren't there always). First, the flange is potentially removable. I'm going to pry it out and if it comes out in one piece I'll epoxy it back in after checking the plywood. If not, I'll buy the replacement for $55.
Al, I think your idea for putting the rope in place is great! I've also found out that CD has the original white gasket material (also for use on the port/starboard cockpit doors). I'm going to use your method to epoxy this to the bottom side of the hatch and then attach new hinges to the rear. I hope that will do it. |
Bayard Gross
Greenwich, CT
Boat Name: Baby Blue
Model/Year: 1981
Hull No. 9911
Hailing Port: Greenwich, CT |
10/04/2005 8:03 PM Pacific Time
Thru bolt the hinges where they attach to the deck. The wood screws originally there can be lose and very difficult to replace. |
