David Whitey
Humble TX
Boat Name: Over Keel
Model/Year: 1985 Catalina 22
Hull No. 13059
Hailing Port: Lake Conroe |
 10/30/2005 2:24 PM Pacific Time
I am considering buying a 1981 Catalina 22. I noticed as I was looking the boat over, that the hole where the mast pin
attaches may be torn out. The mast has two holes that the
pin should pass through to hold the mast in place. One hole
is not complete in that it comes to the bottom of the mast. I am not that familiar with the Catalina mast attachment. So my question is... are both holes through the bottom of the mast supposed to be intact? I not sure how this could be repaired if both holes that the pin would pass through should be complete. |
Sean Madian
Portland, OR
Boat Name: Time Out
Model/Year: 1973
Hull No. CL 3839 FX
Hailing Port: Portland |
10/31/2005 2:16 AM Pacific Time
They should definately be complete but I'll offer an option. This was my first year with a '73 Cat-22. I managed to dump the mast the first time I took it down (long story) and tore out the pin and twisted the deck mounting plate. I've had one person suggest a quick weld (very easy to do) and a second suggest that I cut 1/2" off the bottom of the mast and drill new holes. I'm not sure if either is the "right" solution but both seem workable. |
Al Gearing
Burleson, Texas
Boat Name: Torch of Freedom
Model/Year: C-22/'76
Hull No. 6448
Hailing Port: Arlington YC |
10/31/2005 3:12 AM Pacific Time
Cutting the inch off the bottom would be the easiest I think. Then you are allowed to add and inch under the mast, just make it a two inch thick wood, the metal tabernacle will cover it. Of course paint or epoxy the wood.
Al Ge |
Al Gearing
Burleson, Texas
Boat Name: Torch of Freedom
Model/Year: C-22/'76
Hull No. 6448
Hailing Port: Arlington YC |
10/31/2005 3:15 AM Pacific Time
Dave, I just got your inquiry, #11431 has all that taken care of and is in great shape. Better deal.
Al Ge |
Dick King
Melbourne, FL
Boat Name: Twilight Zone
Model/Year: Sport/2005
Hull No. 15546
Hailing Port: Melbourne, FL |
10/31/2005 4:13 AM Pacific Time
Regarding the mast damage. You have two options. Cut the damaged portion off and drill new holes or repair the damage. On my first boat, I did the first. The one inch (NOT TWO) block allowed by the One Design Rules. will allow you to use the same rigging.
On my second boat, I repaired the damage, by having an eigth inch x one inch aluminum bar cut and shaped to fit inside the lower end of the mast. The shape was "welded" to the mast and the holes were redrilled.
With either case, beware of the bevel on the aft side of the bottom of the mast. This is required to allow the mast to rotated aft when lowering it.
I like the second solution much better. You will never have to worry about the holes again. |
Sands Herrin
Brunswick, GA
Boat Name: Cat Tales
Model/Year: C22/84
Hull No.
Hailing Port: Brunswick |
10/31/2005 6:25 AM Pacific Time
Hello, I had the same problem with the mast bolt being ripped out when lowering it. I spoked with CD and they recogmended cutting off and redrilling.
With a metal cutting blade on a cut-off saw, I cut 1 in. off the mast and also cut the angle off the aft corner. I redrilled the bolt hole where it would be normally located.
I cut 2 pieces of plastic cutting board material the shape of the mast step. The pieces were one-half in. thick, and I epoxied them together. After removing the mast step and cleaning underneath it, I drilled matching holes through the plastic to mount it under the step.
Prepping the deck under the step, I put 5200 between plastic and deck and remounted mast step.
All has worked well and no adjustment to the rigging was needed. |
John Connor
Little Rock, AR
Boat Name: Weekender
Model/Year: C22 1982
Hull No. 11192
Hailing Port: Little Rock, Arkansas |
10/31/2005 8:17 AM Pacific Time
Dick,
Since 1 inch was cut off the bottom of the mast why would a 2 inch block not be allowed? I would think 1 inch for the original adjustment per the rules and a second inch to accomodate the mast being cut-off. This would, in effect, bring the mast up the 1 inch allowed by the rules.
Just a thought,
John |
Dick King
Melbourne, FL
Boat Name: Twilight Zone
Model/Year: Sport/2005
Hull No. 15546
Hailing Port: Melbourne, FL |
11/01/2005 4:45 AM Pacific Time
Hi Joh\n - While your logic is good, that is not what the rule says. I suggest you contact the Catalina 22 National Sailing Assoc. Chief Measurer for an official interpretation. |
Larry
Greenville, SC
Boat Name: Kemo Sabe
Model/Year: C-22 , 1973
Hull No. 2229
Hailing Port: www.keoweesailingclub.com |
11/01/2005 7:28 AM Pacific Time
If you are not racing at the nationals, it probably won't make a bit of difference on how you repair the mast, if what you do works.
I have some torn aluminum in the foot of my mast where the pins slipped from the slot on the old style tabernacle and it hasn't hurt anything for two years. It may be that you are fine to use it as it is.
Larry |
Andrew Faris
Richmond, VA
Boat Name: DINK
Model/Year: 88 Catalina 22
Hull No. 14400
Hailing Port: |
11/01/2005 8:45 AM Pacific Time
Does anyone have a good picture of what the base of the mast should look like? I just bought my boat a week ago and noticed that one of the sides is torn out as you described. Thanks.
Andrew |
Dick King
Melbourne, FL
Boat Name: Twilight Zone
Model/Year: Sport/2005
Hull No. 15546
Hailing Port: Melbourne, FL |
11/02/2005 6:21 AM Pacific Time
Hi Andrew - Contact me at Romeo Tango Kilo Juliet Romeo at bellsouth.net and I will send you one. |
John Connor
Little Rock, AR
Boat Name: Weekender
Model/Year: C22 1982
Hull No. 11192
Hailing Port: Little Rock, Arkansas |
11/02/2005 6:59 AM Pacific Time
Dick,
Thanks for the reply. I knew you had raced successfully and was just wondering why that hadn't come up before.
John |
Bayard Gross
Greenwich, CT
Boat Name: Baby Blue
Model/Year: 1981
Hull No. 9911
Hailing Port: Greenwich, CT |
11/12/2005 7:03 AM Pacific Time
David:
Since this is an 81 boat like mine, I will speculate that this boat has the "old" style aluminum mast step with the open slots that the mast pin on the bottom of the mast enters and you have a flat sided mast.
The solution I think is far simplier that previously indicated.
Becasue of the issues of breakerage with this "old" style mast step, there is an "imporoved" stainless steel mast step that CD sells. However, the pin attachment for this "improved" mast step is up higher and more centered than the original pin. But, it should be very easy to drill a hole in the mast to accept the new pin which I think comes along with the new mast step but one may need to oder in addition.
Again assuming "old" mast step, I think this repair should be considered your first option. |
