Bilbo
Youngstown, Ohio
Boat Name: Sea Dog
Model/Year: Catalina 22 1987
Hull No. 13971
Hailing Port: Andover, Ohio |
 11/19/2005 4:23 AM Pacific Time
I just bought a 1987 C22 in September and the PO didn't repair the leaks in the upper shroud deck fittings. Now the main bulkhead on the port side needs replacing because of delamination. (I also want to add a storage cupboard area over the sink while providing some measure of privacy for the head).
It doesn't appear to be that difficult because aside from the upper shroud bolts, the rest is just screwed into the fiberglass sink area with wood screws.
My question is, should the paneling/bulkheads be marine grade plywood, or is jsut common 1/2" acceptable?
Thanks
~Bilbo |
Tim Seifert
Boat Name: Mary's Joy
Model/Year:
Hull No. 8281
Hailing Port: Holyrood, Newfoundland |
11/20/2005 4:04 AM Pacific Time
I would choose marine grade plywood if you can afford it. Not only is the glue waterproof, but the plywood is stronger. Marine grade ply has fewer voids in the layers. I am not sure, but it may also have more layers than common ply. Regardless, coat the plywood with epoxy (2 coats) for waterproofing. |
Boat Name:
Model/Year:
Hull No.
Hailing Port: |
11/20/2005 9:24 AM Pacific Time
I replaced my starboard side bulkhead for the same reasons you have stated. I also have the newer model c22. After pricing teak plywood, I went with regular, finished surface birch plywood. My opinion is that the original bulkheads were not marine grade/waterproof. This was evident by the degredation of the originals.
I stained the birch to match the port bulkhead teak. I used many sample/scrap pieces and ended up mixing my own color stain from several stains I have.
As suggested previously, seal all endgrain with epoxy to keep any moisture out. Also, make sure you don't have any leaks at the chain plate. Also, re-use the teak cap that covers the raw edge of the plywood.
Butchie
C22 Swing Keel
#13320 1986
"Sandy Bottoms"
Beachwood, NJ (Barnegat Bay)
|
Al Gearing
Burleson, Texas
Boat Name: Torch of Freedom
Model/Year: C-22 '76
Hull No. 6448
Hailing Port: Arlington YC |
11/20/2005 9:41 AM Pacific Time
There is a maple ply wood with an impregnated plastic finish called Applply, it is available from Louis and Co., a cabinet makers supply house. It is $98 a 4x8 sheet in 1/2". It is like Baltic or Russian birch, with no voids in the layers, but it is finished. Baltic Birch must be sanded and finished on the surfaces, but the edges can be finished by just sanding them smooth and coating with a clear coating to make it water proof. I forget the make of the boat, but I first saw it used on production boat, it really looks nice. I now use the Applply to make drawer sides, I just sand the edges and wipe on oil and I have finished drawers. I don't know if it the lamination are water proof, never came up. I did build a storage box in back of the port seat back out of it, and the step. But they haven't been wet, so I don't know what would happpen, looks great.
Al Ge |
Bilbo
Youngstown, Ohio
Boat Name: Sea Dog
Model/Year: Catalina 22 1987
Hull No. 13971
Hailing Port: Andover, Ohio |
11/21/2005 4:48 AM Pacific Time
Thanks for all the suggestions folks.
I will have a direction now.
I know what type of ply that you are referring to Al Ge.
I have a piece of cabinetry in the house that has it.
Nice stuff.
My original bulkheads look fine from the front but on the V berth side has the top layer of ply missing in major sized areas. So I also want to add a cabinet or shelf above the sink. May as well do that as long as I can put the boom inside for trailering.
~Bilbo |
Fred Apstein
Gabriola Is BC
Boat Name: Scruples
Model/Year: 1976
Hull No. 95
Hailing Port: Gabriola Is BC |
11/21/2005 11:23 PM Pacific Time
If you are doing the labour, use the best plywood you can get. For boats, that's Okume, Maranti, or Bryunzeel, with a BS 1088 stamp on it. It stands for British Standard 1088, and it's not BS, if you'll pardon the pun.
This plywood is tested by 10 cycles of freezing for 8 hours to boiling for 8 hours - 10 times. It should be more plys than the regular stuff, and have no voids at all.
Douglas fir marine ply is just barely good enough to use for the deck on your house. It won't take paint (shows small checks in a year) well. It delaminates easily.
Almost all plywood has good glue these days. It's the quality of the wood, thickness of plys, and care of manufacture that makes the diference.
As others have said, seal the edges, and paint or varnish the surface. Use epoxy if possible. It's easier to do before installation, then seal the holes you drill with a small brush and a bit of the same as you put in the fastenings.
The deck will leak again sooner or later. Protect the wood as best you can. |
Robert Donehoo
Duluth Ga
Boat Name: Shady Deal
Model/Year: Catalina 22 1979
Hull No. 8940
Hailing Port: Lake Lanier Ga |
12/17/2010 12:49 PM Pacific Time
Just to add a new idea to the post. I replaced the port bulkhead with one that
completely fills to the compression post and up to the cabin top. This gives me a place on the forward side for a medicine cabinet ($9.99 at home depot) and a toilet roll holder. On the stern side we mounted a 19 inch color lcd tv
with dvd and a paper towel holder. The wall also gives us some privacy. I did use some stiffer plywood with 5 layers but not marine. The plan is to use this as a test piece for all the "remodeling" and when we get it where we want to replace it with a better grade of wood. |
Peter
South Daytona, Florida
Boat Name: (Working On A Name)
Model/Year: C-22, 1974
Hull No. 2679
Hailing Port: South Daytona, Florida |
12/17/2010 1:21 PM Pacific Time
It would be great to see some pictures. |
Robert Donehoo
Duluth Ga
Boat Name: Shady Deal
Model/Year: Catalina 22 1979
Hull No. 8940
Hailing Port: Lake Lanier Ga |
12/17/2010 1:39 PM Pacific Time
Good idea Peter. I just got my christmas gift early. A small camera. So give me a chance to figure out how to use it (and the monkey presses the button)
I'll see if Ted Mcgee will put it on his web sight c22sail.net. I think he already has the shifter the we put in the MAIN BRACE and the article on carb cleaning. |
Greg Guenther
Belleville, IL
Boat Name: Magnificat
Model/Year: 1970
Hull No. 473
Hailing Port: Belleville, IL |
12/18/2010 6:08 AM Pacific Time
The comment about putting the boom inside triggered an unrelated thought. I put two blocks shaped to hold the boom on the foredeck. One near the bow and the other near the starboard shroud line attachment points. I use rubber bunge's to hold the boom in place. It works great and I don't have that big stick inside the boat with the chance of tearing something up when I travel.
Have a blessed Christmas and a safe, prosperous new year to all of my C 22 friends.
Greg |
