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Author Keel Bolts & Weldment
Kevin Murphy
Carmichael, CA

Boat Name: Booyah!

Model/Year: 1973 Catalina 22

Hull No. #2526

Hailing Port: Carmichael, CA
05/31/2006 10:25 AM Pacific Time

I recently decided it was time to replace those keel bolts. The first one - no problem. The second one - stripped the head right off. After reviewing previous discussions, I thought I had a good handle on removing the bolt but I did end up damaging the threads.

Realizing I was now officially over my head, I took the boat to a yard and was told the best way to fix the problem was to dig out the old weldment and replace it. The yard says it wants to go in through the cabin sole.

Another yard I spoke to offered up that perhaps I could tap a new fastener/weldment into the existing weldment. I think that if the weldment is too thin to tap a larger bolt into it, it must be too thin to insert another fastener. The other yard also mentioned something called a heli-coil (not sure of the spelling) as a replacement thread.

The first option is obviously the most expensive since it requires tearing into the hull and laminating the new weldment into place. The yard the boat is at currently is estimating 10-14 hours of work at the rate of $85 per hour. Ouch!

If I can go the other route and try to work with the old weldment, it will be considerably less expensive - even though I want the other yard to do the work. The question is, will the strength of the hold between the keel and the hull be severely compromised if we can get a smaller fastener in the existing weldment and therefore a smaller hex bolt?

While the money is a factor, I am also concerned about going through the cabin sole to get to everything. Should I just bite the bullet and go for the full on weldment repacement or would the second option provide just as much security and peace of mind?
Peter
South Daytona, Florida

Boat Name: (Working On A Name)

Model/Year: C-22, 1974

Hull No. 2679

Hailing Port: South Daytona, Florida
05/31/2006 12:31 PM Pacific Time

Kevin, the best solution is to replace the weldment, but it should be done from the bottom so the integrity of the hull is maintained. I have some pictures, which I am trying to locate, of someone else who did this. Hopefully, that person is monitoring the list and will respond. I'm sure I'll find the pictures, and will send them. Please provide your address (phoneticly, etc). Peter
Kevin Murphy
Carmichael, CA

Boat Name: Booyah!

Model/Year: 1973 Catalina 22

Hull No. #2526

Hailing Port: Carmichael, CA
05/31/2006 10:10 PM Pacific Time

Peter -

Did you mean to say the repair should be done from the TOP (i.e. through the cabin sole/bilge) to maintain the hull integrity rather than from the bottom? If you find the pictures send them to [email protected]
Paul David
Melbourne Australia

Boat Name: Reflections

Model/Year: 1986

Hull No. 13369

Hailing Port: Melbourne Australia
05/31/2006 11:11 PM Pacific Time

Top down or bottom up? Catalina recommends going in from inside the bilge, from top down. See

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/c22_photos/my_photos

and click on the "Technical Drawings" album. I posted instructions there as "Keel Weldment Repair from Catalina".

Paul

Paul David
Melbourne Australia

Boat Name: Reflections

Model/Year: 1986

Hull No. 13369

Hailing Port: Melbourne Australia
05/31/2006 11:11 PM Pacific Time

Top down or bottom up? Catalina recommends going in from inside the bilge, from top down. See

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/c22_photos/my_photos

and click on the "Technical Drawings" album. I posted instructions there as "Keel Weldment Repair from Catalina".

Paul

R Thomas
Long Beach, CA

Boat Name:

Model/Year: C-22 1989

Hull No. 14922

Hailing Port: Long Beach
06/01/2006 5:45 PM Pacific Time

The aformentioned pictures were taken by me when I replaced the weldments on my previous swing keel. Catalina Yachts suggested that it be done from the bottom, then after I had finished it and sent them pictures and documentation how I did it, they found the engineering drawing in their archives. If I had to do it again top down would be the way to go. Have gravity work with you instead of against you. It took forever to get the form correct. It is also taking forever removing the resin that ran down my arm to my armpit!
Here is a link to more pictures. Look in the C22 folder.

http://community.webshots.com/user/akar7

Bob Thomas
C22 14922 Wing
Long Beach, CA
Peter
South Daytona, Florida

Boat Name: (Working On A Name)

Model/Year: C-22, 1974

Hull No. 2679

Hailing Port: South Daytona, Florida
06/01/2006 6:41 PM Pacific Time

After typing an e-mail to Kevin about my thoughts on doing this from the bottom or from the top, by the time I finished, I realized that doing this repair seemed better from the top. Since Bob actually did the job himself, he should know.

Peter
Tim Seifert


Boat Name: Mary's Joy

Model/Year:

Hull No. 8281

Hailing Port: Holyrood, Newfoundland
10/08/2006 5:09 AM Pacific Time

From several accounts, the stainless steel bolts used to hold the keel hangers in place are subject to corrosion. I was wondering if anyone has tried bronze bolts. Given the pin and hangers are bronze, it seems like a good idea.
Kevin Murphy
Carmichael, CA

Boat Name: Booyah!

Model/Year: 1973 Catalina 22

Hull No. #2526

Hailing Port: Carmichael, CA
10/09/2006 11:20 AM Pacific Time

I just realized that I never shared the end of the story.

Mel at Morrison Marine in Rancho Cordova, CA (near my home) did the repair for me and it came out beautifully and within the original quote. He contacted Catalina directly and learned that Catalina had recently began a new repair technique - from inside the bilge down to the keel bolts and weldements. They provided him with all the information he needed.

The repair took a little longer than I expected but the results where as promised and the work was professionally completed. Mel even fashioned a custom cover to place over the work area of the bilge to provide easy access just in case I get it in my head to try to repair something beyond my expertise! Let the word go out -- change those keel bolts early and often!
Peter
South Daytona, Florida

Boat Name: (Working On A Name)

Model/Year: C-22, 1974

Hull No. 2679

Hailing Port: South Daytona, Florida
10/09/2006 12:18 PM Pacific Time

Kevin, thank you for taking us full circle. Also, happy for you that all worked out well. Now, I don't suppose that there are any pictures of this repair, and could you share with us the directions Catalina gave for doing this repair.

Peter
Kevin Murphy
Carmichael, CA

Boat Name: Booyah!

Model/Year: 1973 Catalina 22

Hull No. #2526

Hailing Port: Carmichael, CA
10/10/2006 9:56 AM Pacific Time

I didn't get copies of the information sent from Catalina to the yard but the yard told me that Catalina was very accomodating so I wouldn't think it would be too hard to get the information from them via phone or email.
Fred Tremblay
QC

Boat Name:

Model/Year:

Hull No.

Hailing Port:
11/11/2012 4:39 PM Pacific Time

hi everyone, so I'm looking at buying a 1977 cat 22 but I need to replace the keel bolt weldments (the bolts broke) ok from the top or the bottom?
I get how to grind them from the bottom but it's the glassing it back that has me confused, can someone shed some light on this for me before I spend my money ;)
thanks
FRED
Peter
South Daytona, Florida

Boat Name: (Working On A Name)

Model/Year: C-22, 1974

Hull No. 2679

Hailing Port: South Daytona, Florida
11/13/2012 11:31 AM Pacific Time

It is much easier to work from the top unless you flip the boat over as some have done. Just grind the fiberglass away, replace the weldment and reglass. You will need to create an access hole on the starboard side of the trunk, but that can be kept as small as possible. By working from the top you're not effecting the integrity of the hull where the weldments are placed. I've seen pictures of others who have done it this way.
Fred Tremblay
QC

Boat Name:

Model/Year:

Hull No.

Hailing Port:
11/14/2012 4:37 PM Pacific Time

thanks peter, this boat is calling to me even more now ;)
FRED
 
 
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