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Catalina Direct Discussion Topics / Catalina 22 Discussion Area / Plumbing / Through Hull's
 
 
Author Through Hull's
Chris Wolschon
Redford, Michigan

Boat Name: Zephyr

Model/Year: C-25 1981

Hull No. 2303

Hailing Port: Monroe, Michigan
02/06/2004 10:06 AM Pacific Time

On my 1981 C-25, I have 3" bronze nipples that are fiberglassed to the hull that seacocks are threaded on to. The forward 1/2" nipple is loose in the fiberglass and needs to be repaired before I launch this spring.
The question is, do I trim off the old fiberglass, clean the entire area and re-fiberglass the nipple to the hull or do I remove the nipple altogether and put a new through-hull fitting in?
Bob Vick
Caldwell, TX

Boat Name: Over Keel

Model/Year: <1985

Hull No. 13059

Hailing Port: Lake Somerville
02/07/2004 6:59 AM Pacific Time

Chris,

I took a right angle grinder & cut my thru hulls off flush with the interior hull. The bronze pipes just popped out, some had less than an inch of bound connection to the fiberglass. If one was careful they could re-bed a threaded thru hull connection without any further fuss. I bought “Forespar” Malar (sp) connections.

On my boat, I built up the thru hulls with glass cloth & epoxy then faired & finished. After glassing in the boats thru hull openings, I decided to eliminate all of the thru hulls & bought some small 3-gallon plastic holding tanks. This extreme change was motivated by an Aggie Boat sinking at her slip at the marina due to a thru hull leak.

Bob Vick
Caldwell, TX
C 22 #13059
Over Keel

Philip Gresham
Lewisville, TX

Boat Name:

Model/Year: Cat 22/1972

Hull No. 3165

Hailing Port: Lake Lewisville
04/27/2004 11:24 AM Pacific Time

Once upon a time my sea cocks were frozen open. I removed them and in the process loosened the through hull bronze pipe. Not knowing any better, I guess, I sealed the flanged portion of the pipe (which seat onto the hull) with polysulfied and tightened it back down. No problems.?.?.?
Philip Gresham
Lewisville, TX

Boat Name:

Model/Year: Cat 22/1972

Hull No. 3165

Hailing Port: Lake Lewisville
04/28/2004 11:36 AM Pacific Time

My boat is currently out of the water, and I was wondering, after the horror stories that I have heard, If there was any way to be sure that the fittings for the deckdrain and the "volcano" were secure. There does not seem to be any movement in either, but after hearing about these boats ending up as future projects for Bob Ballard I would like to be sure.
Kent S. Kokko
Roseville, Mn

Boat Name: none

Model/Year: C22 Mark II/ 1999

Hull No. CTYH 5434A999

Hailing Port: White Bear Lake, MN
10/18/2004 9:04 AM Pacific Time

The 3/4 inch ball valve for the sink drain is frozen open. I have flushed several gallons of water through the line and it seems to drain normally. Should I leave it as is, replace the valve or attempt to free it?
Joe McElroy
Snoqualmie, Washington

Boat Name: Teasel

Model/Year: 1979 Swing Keel

Hull No. 9014

Hailing Port:
10/18/2004 10:38 AM Pacific Time

Has anyone ever heard of a good reason why the volcano terminates below the waterline? It would make sense to me to extend it up a few more inches so that the boat doesn't sink if you lose your hose extension.

Joe
Michael Smalter
Webster, NY

Boat Name: Marrakesh

Model/Year: 1986

Hull No. 13645

Hailing Port: Rochester, NY
10/18/2004 2:20 PM Pacific Time

I expect that it may have to do with access to the turning ball. If the volcano were 2 inches higher and the turning ball was several inches down the tube, it would be very difficult to get in and out. If the ball were higher, then the cable would cut into the pipe/hull.
Dick King
Melbourne, FL

Boat Name: Twilight Zone

Model/Year: Sport/2005

Hull No. 15546

Hailing Port: Melbourne, FL
10/19/2004 5:46 AM Pacific Time

Kent - Replace the valve with one made of Delrin.
Tim Florek
Neenah, Wisconsin

Boat Name: Love n Luck

Model/Year: C22 1981

Hull No. 10301

Hailing Port: Neenah
06/17/2005 7:16 AM Pacific Time

CHIP FORD I know you can help. Different question same topic. I am installing a through hull for my bilge pump on the side of Love -n- Luck. Five feet forward from the stern on the port side. Just below my stripe but well above the water line. How thick is the hull at this point? I know this is approx. because of the different years. Chip I know this is a project you did because I have your website up on another browser window.
Thanks for the help everyone.
Peter Snyder - [email protected]
Ringgold, GA

Boat Name: Windabout

Model/Year: Catalina 22 / 1978

Hull No. 8329

Hailing Port: Privateer, Lake Chickamauga, TN
07/18/2005 12:36 PM Pacific Time

I am a new Catalina 22 owner and one of the first things I attempted to do was change out the cockpit drain tubes to re-hook-up the original galley drain. Somehow, I managed to loosen the bronze nipple and now there is a very small amount of water coming in which evaporates about as fast as it enters. Realizing that it needs to be fixed, I called Catalina Direct and spoke with Tech Support.

The direction I received is like none other I have read online, and other members of my fleet seem to think it is incorrect. So, I'm asking for some other, more experienced sailors to add your opinions.

What I was told to do was take the boat out of the water for the repair (really good advice) then remove the bronze nipple from the fiberglass "volcano" along with the brass valves, throw all that away, and close up the original hole with epoxy and collodial silica. Then drill, or hole saw, two new holes on either side of the keel recess for new plastic thru-hull fittings that would be installed "mechanically" with epoxied plywood backing and 4200 adhesive sealant. Then install new glass reinforced nylon ball valves (a definite improvement over brass) on the thru-hulls and hook up the hoses "cross-wise" (port cockpit drain to starboard thru-hull, etc.).

I was told that if I didn't have a "mechanical" connection, I would be depending upon "just glue." But as I thought about it, and discussed it with a couple of other Catalina owners, it seems counter productive to seal up one hole only to drill two more. And, the whole boat is fiberglass, which is essentially "glued" together. Is there some problem with epoxy bonding to the bronze nipple?

And what's with "cross wiring" the drain hoses? Is that to give enough room to make the connections? Seems like it would be an invitation for water to enter. The drain ought to go as straight down as possible. If the boat heels to port, the water should drain to port.

I'm thinking of going with my original idea of removing and cleaning the bronze nipple, then epoxying it in place with one of the nylon ball valves and re-using the tee connection here and with the original sink drain and the other nylon valve - unless there is a better tee available.

What advice have ye...?
 
 
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Catalina Direct Discussion Topics / Catalina 22 Discussion Area / Plumbing / Through Hull's