Doug Allinger
Sandy, UT
Boat Name: Forbidden Love
Model/Year: 1982
Hull No. 10192
Hailing Port: Salt Lake City |
 06/23/2006 10:23 AM Pacific Time
I'm in the process of restoring my C22 and am painting the entire boat (BTW thanks for the input from the list so far...)
As I look at her up on the trailer, all patched, faired, and sanded, I'm trying to settle on the best order in which to do this. The bottom is Interlux VC-17, topsides Awlgrip (spray application: hull-red, deck-white, non-skid-light gray), interior Interlux Brightside.
I'm hoping anyone who's been throught this before might have some insights. My thought now is:
1. paint bottom w/VC-17 (dries very fast so I can tape)
2. tape off bottom
3. prime the entire boat with Awlgrip 545
4. tape off hull and cabin
5. paint deck/cockpit (white)
6. paint hull (red)
7. paint non-skid (lt. gray)
8. paint cabin
9. paint bootstripe and trim
Put the whole thing back together....
Any advice on any of this would be greatly appreciated! |
Stan Hullett
Littleton CO
Boat Name: Hanky Panky
Model/Year: 1979 C-25
Hull No.
Hailing Port: Chatfield State Park |
06/23/2006 11:14 AM Pacific Time
Doug,
I will caution you on putting three different coats of paint on the non-skid. This will "fill" the non-skid to the point of it becoming slipery. If you can live with it do not paint the NS at all, just do the smooth part of the deck.
Island Girl makes a NS cleaner and also a NS sealer, I have not as yet used these, but there other products work well.
Stan |
Al Gearing
Burleson, Texas
Boat Name: Torch of Freedom
Model/Year: C-22 '76
Hull No. 6448
Hailing Port: Arlington YC |
06/24/2006 4:16 AM Pacific Time
I would add some grit to the non-skid areas. I got some that mixes right in the spray gun from an aviation supply house. It is what they use for tread areas on airplanes. Works great.
For what it's worth,
Al Ge |
R. C. Luiken
Milford, DE
Boat Name: Ricochet
Model/Year: C-22 Swing Keel/1986
Hull No. 13560
Hailing Port: Milford, DE/St. Michaels, MD |
06/24/2006 4:56 AM Pacific Time
Be careful with the Awl-Grip. Make sure you have the proper respirator. I was helping a friend comission his boat a couple of years ago. Someone else in the yard sprayed his boat with Awl Grip, inhaled some through his paper repiratore and died. In the lungs the micronized urethane does bad things to lungs. |
Greg Guenther
Belleville, IL
Boat Name: Magnificat
Model/Year: 1970
Hull No. 473
Hailing Port: Belleville, IL |
06/24/2006 9:05 PM Pacific Time
Doug,
The winter before last I painted my C 22. I painted the whole thing white. I was going to use the paint from West Marine but when I read the label "spray, let dry 11 hours, sand, spray, let dry 11 hours..... " well you get the picture. I ended up using an automotive paint system, a two part epoxy that allowed me to spra the entire boat with primer, and by the time I got the first coat of finish paint mixed up it was time to spray that. Bottom line is I sprayed the entire boat in about four hours one evening. The BIG mistake I made was painting the deck, cockpit coamings and all of the non-skid with this paint. She looked great (refrigerator White) but boy was she dangerous to move around on. Last winter, I sanded the non-skid areas, and taped them off and bought some Interlux paint from West Marine and added some non-skid beads from them also. I used a roller to apply the paint and what a difference! It is a delight to walk on and washes clean easily.
I need to mention that the topside paint from W M bleeds water and would not work on the bottom. Since I keep my boat on the trailer on the hard, I don't need to put anti-fouling bottom paint on. The automotive paint is impervious to water and takes and holds a great shine when you wax it.
Good luck
Greg |
Doug Allinger
Sandy, UT
Boat Name: Forbidden Love
Model/Year: 1982
Hull No. 10192
Hailing Port: Salt Lake City |
06/25/2006 8:44 AM Pacific Time
Thanks for the input and warnings. I do have the 3M respirator rated for this type of application and other safety equipment, but it is a bit scarry.
Also, didn't mention but I have the Awlgrip non-slip additive for the non-skid areas, so should be OK there. Hopefully can get started today....
On the Island Girl stuff, I used some of their fiberglass restorative/protective product (can't remember which was which) but getting that stuff off (after about 4 years on the boat) was one of the hardest things about getting the hull ready. Maybe I did something incorrectly, but the film that it left was almost impossible to remove.
I guess if you're not going to paint, maybe that's a good thing.... |
Bob Keim
Nashville
Boat Name: Pursuit
Model/Year: C22/1976
Hull No.
Hailing Port: Nashville |
06/26/2006 6:49 AM Pacific Time
Some of the pro's I know roll Awl Grip instead of spraying it. I sprayed mine last year and put it on too thin. I'll roll some coats this summer to see how that works out. Haha, experimenting with $300/gallon paint is an expensive learning process.
One hot day I was spraying and when I came in, I told my employee I thought I had cut my foot badly because my shoe was full of blood. Nope, sweat had flowed down the inside of my tyvec suit and out the cuffs of my pants into my shoes, filling them up. I think I lost 10 pounds of water that day.
BTW, if you plan on doing any sanding on the Awl Grip you will want to wait 2 or 3 days, but NO MORE. It starts getting real hard in 7 days and by 14 days it is like sanding concrete. |
Aaron M Benham
33a Loomis Hights
Boat Name: Tidely-Idley: The never ending project
Model/Year: 1978 C22
Hull No. 8070
Hailing Port: |
06/26/2006 8:09 PM Pacific Time
Two part Awlgrip is REALLY nasty stuff to be spraying. One of the componants of polyurethane paints is isocyanate which is EXTREAMLY poisonus especially when atomized by a sprayer and inhailed. Awlgrip (and all of the other manufactures of two part poly paints for that matter) does not recommend spraying by amatures. If you are planning to spray the Awlgrip do yourself a favor and make sure you have the Tyvec suit and more importantly a supplied air respirator. A chemical filter mask is not sufficent for this product. No mirror like shine is worth dying over. I plan on sticking with rolling and tipping when I get to that point.
Good luck , stay healthy, and have fun. |
Doug Allinger
Sandy, UT
Boat Name: Forbidden Love
Model/Year: 1982
Hull No. 10192
Hailing Port: Salt Lake City |
06/27/2006 8:51 AM Pacific Time
I'm really glad I've consulted this list before proceeding....
I really thought the chemical mask would provide what I need in terms of protection.
While I'm not a professional, as an amatuer I've painted a couple of cars and one other boat (w/Interlux Brightside). So, I bought all the materials for spray application.
I'm searching my yellow pages and on-line for respirator rental.... |
Robert Donehoo
Duluth Ga
Boat Name: Shady Deal
Model/Year: Catalina 22 1979
Hull No. 8940
Hailing Port: Lake Lanier Ga |
06/27/2006 1:09 PM Pacific Time
DON'T LAUGH BUT WHEN I PAINTED MY BOAT WITH ENRON 2 PART EPOXY I PUT TOGETHER MY OWN SYSTEM. 1 NEW SMALL WET VACUUM WITH HOSE REVERSED TO BLOW OUT. 1 NEW 25' VINYL GARDEN HOSE 1/2" OR MORE. 1 DUAL FILTER DUST MASK WITH ONE FILTER REMOVED.
CONNECT THE MALE END OF THE HOSE TO THE VAC HOSE AND SEAL WITH DUCT TAPE. CUT OFF THE FEMALE END AND CONNECT TO THE HOLE FOR THE MISSING FILTER. I PUT THE VAC IN THE HOUSE WITH AC ON AND RAN THE HOSE OUTSIDE. AIR IS FILTERED IN THE VAC AND FLOW IS GOOD ENOUGH TO KEEP SPRAY AWAY FROM MY EYES. THE ONLY DRAWBACK I FOUND IS WHEN I KINKED OR STEPPED ON THE HOSE (NEIGHBOR THOUGHT IT WAS REAL FUNNY)
OK YOU CAN LAUGH |
Glenn Warner
Jacksonville Florida
Boat Name: Goblin/JuJu
Model/Year: 1981/1972
Hull No. 10369/1222
Hailing Port: Jacksonville Florida |
06/28/2006 3:38 AM Pacific Time
I am working on my second c22. My current boat is an 81 and I have been able to water sand buff and polish it to a nice glossy finish. My new boat is an 71 and there is no avoiding painting the thing. Many years ago I was in the paint and body buiesness. I was quite good at blowing paint on. As I thought about painting my new boat and the preparations that would be necessary (plenty of DRY air, adequate personal protective equipment, some method of enclosing the boat etc.) I decided on another path. When I was a painter my boss would let me do side jobs at the shop on weekends. I asked around and when my boat is prepped and ready to go in the booth I have a pro with a booth and lots current experience spraying Imron waiting for me to roll my boat on it's trailer into his spray booth. A few bucks and a case of beer later my boat will have a professionally sprayed finish. Another approach to consider. |
Joe McElroy
Snoqualmie, Washington
Boat Name: Teasel
Model/Year: 1979 Swing Keel
Hull No. 9014
Hailing Port: |
06/29/2006 6:17 AM Pacific Time
I also used a shop vac to provide clean air from a spot well removed from where I was painting (I was outside and the vac was 50 feet away inside the shop). Grainger sells tyvec hoods quite cheap ($20). You can also get a pack of replaceable lens covers that peel away from the lens to give you a fresh clean viewing lens. They come in a pack of 20. It is amazing how quickly the lens can get covered with paint. Here is a link for the hoods. Make sure you copy the whole thing:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/viewCatalogPDF.shtml?browserCompatable=true&adobeCompatable=true&toolbar=true&CatPage=2578
|
Scott L. Shermeyer
Cherry Point, NC
Boat Name: Blue Nun
Model/Year: C22, 1980
Hull No.
Hailing Port: Cherry Point, NC |
06/29/2006 7:14 AM Pacific Time
Doug, I was curious as to how well the Interlux Brightside held up?
Last year I rennovated an old fiberglass fishing boat for my father that the previous owners had turned into swiss cheese, using plain ol' drywall screws (and lots of them) to fasten the outdoor carpet to the boat. They even drilled down thru the bottom and out the hull. But after plenty of glass work, she was ready to prime. Since Petit Easy Poxy was the only brand that seemed to have the "John Deere" green and sunflower yellow...that's what I used, but was really dissapointed at durability of this product. |
Doug Allinger
Sandy, UT
Boat Name: Forbidden Love
Model/Year: 1982
Hull No. 10192
Hailing Port: Salt Lake City |
06/29/2006 8:24 AM Pacific Time
Scott, I have been pleased with it overall. It was pretty easy to apply (I sprayed with a traditional pressure pot). I painted a Hobie Cat and a runabout with it. The Hobie Cat took a lot of abuse and it did scratch, but held up well considering the boat.
I wasn't able to get the kind of gloss out of it that I wanted for my C-22 and, since I plan to have this boat for a very long time, I wanted to get the best possible paint I could for this project. That's why I went with the Awlgrip. I started priming last night, so we'll see how it goes.... |
Alan
Mohler
Boat Name: N/A
Model/Year: N/A
Hull No. N/A
Hailing Port: Michigan |
08/21/2007 4:26 PM Pacific Time
Hi folks. I apoligize in advance for not finding a Newbee forum. I am looking at buying a 24 foot with trailer in Michigan on E-BAY. Link http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1984-Catalina-22-Trailer-Well-Equipped-NO-RESERVE_W0QQitemZ150153169377QQihZ005QQcategoryZ63730QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
What questions would any of you folks ask, and what problems or upgrades would you look for?
Thanks in advance from a 52 year young!? wanna-be sailor.
Best Regards,
Alan |
