| |
---Turk ---
Canfield, Ohio
Boat Name: Miss Kitty
Model/Year: 1974 C22
Hull No. 3520
Hailing Port: Mosquito Lake, N.E. Ohio |
 02/11/2004 4:52 AM Pacific Time
I've discovered that the mast I have has a conduit running through it to keep the wiring for the lights from banging around and away from the halyards. I would like to run my antenna wire throught this. I need to take the bottom "plate" on the mast off. There are 3 rivits that appear to hold it on; do I just drill them out to get the plate off? Seems to be the mast a black plastic or nylon gasket and then the plate.
I also need to come out the top of the mast )it's open) and to the antenna. What should I do to support the wire in the mast as in strain relief against it pulling on the antenna connection. If I drill a small hole in the side under the antenna mount, use a rubber grommet; will that provide enough friction to hold it in place?
Last question! To enter the cabin I need to drill a hole in the deck and add a connector. I have a connection already for the lighting. Can I drill anywhere near this connector? Are there any structures within the hull I need to be aware of? I don't want to cause any problems with the mast. Is there a connector that could replace the lighting connector and work for both the radio antenna and the lights avoiding the need for another hole?
I'm a newbe here - haven't even sailed her yet! |
Chip Ford
Marblehead, MA
Boat Name: Chip Ahoy
Model/Year: 1974-Swing Keel
Hull No. CTY032820374
Hailing Port: Marblehead, Mass. |
02/12/2004 1:36 AM Pacific Time
Turk, last spring I replaced everything electrical on my mast and added the combo steaming/deck light, anchor light, a Windex, and a VHF radio and antenna. Chip Ahoy also is a 1974 model (#3282), but I did not find any sort of "bottom plate" on my mast: it was open and I could look through to the top (after I knocked out a bird's nest!). I added a 25" length of 1" PVC conduit then ran the new wiring harness and antenna coax cable through it.
I drilled two holes in the mast, one just below where the existing wiring harness exits, the other about a foot down from the top beneath the mounted antenna. I routed the coax cable out from the conduit through the holes and rubber grommets. I wrapped a short piece of stainless wire around the top of the coax where it bends through the hole and secured it to a screw inside the mast near the top to help distribute any stress on the cable. I put a connector on the top end of the coax outside the hole and screwed it into the threaded base of the antenna.
I left more than enough coax at the bottom to run through the deck and along the deck overhead to reach the VHF where I'd mounted it, above the dinette table. Then I cut off the excess, attached the connector and screwed it into the back of the VHF. I used Ancor cable clamps to hold the coax to the overhead along its route to the VHF....
See: http://sailnet.com/store/item.cfm?pid=15065
No, you won't be able to use the electrical connector to run your antenna coax through; I drilled another hole about 2-3" behind the mast wiring deck connector (which I also replaced with a 5-pin connector for the additional mast lighting). I didn't have a problem drilling into anything. I drilled straight through all the way. I used Blue Seas Systems cable clam on the deck which I ran the coax through....
See: http://sailnet.com/store/item.cfm?pid=15489
I made sure I got one with a wide enough opening diameter for the coax connector (to the VHF) to pass through so I can pull the cable all the way out.
To cover the hole inside in the overhead, I ended up using another of the above cable clams.
You can see a photo of my masthead, antenna and coax at:
http://www.cltg.org/chip_ahoy/chip_ahoy_2.htm
Get a larger picture by clicking on "The masthead ..." thumbnail shot. The photo just below it shows the mast base and where the coax and wiring harness exit.
Important Note: I trailer Chip Ahoy twice a year. I trailer it down in the spring to launch; it sits out on a mooring all season; I trailer it home after pulling it out in the fall. I mention this because the way I've run the antenna coax would be a nuisance if you do a lot of trailering, as each time you take down the mast you have to disconnect the coax from the back of the VHF, from all the cable clamps, and remove the cable clam(s) to pull the coax out.
Chip Ford --
Marblehead, Mass.
1974 C22 #3282 - "Chip Ahoy"
http://cltg.org/chip_ahoy/
|
---Turk ---
Canfield, Ohio
Boat Name: Miss Kitty
Model/Year: 1974 C22
Hull No. 3520
Hailing Port: Mosquito Lake, N.E. Ohio |
02/12/2004 4:55 AM Pacific Time
Thanks Chip!
From you description and pictures of your mast, it looks like mine must have been replaced somewhere down the line. It is oval while yours looks round. Mine has a plate at the bottom (solid) with two 1 inch round projections that act as guides into the deck plate. It looks like the plate is held on with 3 rivets. Has anyone else removed this?
The clam thru hull covers look interesting. I've seen them on the internet before and wondered if they would hold up over time. I'm guessing with your experience that they work! I'm thinking of doing a little travelling with the boat and would still like something I could remove at the deckline. I've called CD and they said they had a thru hull solution but the salesperson did not describe it and I need to get with their tech support today. If it is the same solution, I'll just have to use a quick realease system to hold the internal antenna wire within the cabin (velcro maybe).
I like your idea of using the stainless wire to support some of the weight of the wire. I have rope halyards within the mast and have to be carefull not to cross in their way. Guess I need to take the top crane off also to get at everything. I'll take lots of pictures as I do this - may help someone down the road.
Thanks for your help, Chip. |
---Turk ---
Canfield, Ohio
Boat Name: Miss Kitty
Model/Year: 1974 C22
Hull No. 3520
Hailing Port: Mosquito Lake, N.E. Ohio |
02/15/2004 4:36 AM Pacific Time
I was able to drill out the riviets holding the bottom plate, but I ran into a snag with one of the stainless steel screws holding a pulley at the bottom. It goes through the mast into the magnesium bottom plate and has "welded" itself to the metal. I will try an easyout first. If that doesn't work; a drill!
Had a talk with Lowell the other night and may need to replace some wiring within the mast with his C22 harness.
Here are some picts:
http://www.pbase.com/image/26023939
http://www.pbase.com/image/26023938
I've read somewhere that I need to use "monel" rivets to replace the ones I drilled out. It's the old dissimilar metals problem with the mast being aluminum and the bottom plate being magnesium. Are these rivets readily available?
|
Chip Ford
Marblehead, MA
Boat Name: Chip Ahoy
Model/Year: 1974-Swing Keel
Hull No. CTY032820374
Hailing Port: Marblehead, Mass. |
02/16/2004 2:13 AM Pacific Time
Turk, on 02/12/2004 you wrote:
"From your description and pictures of your mast, it looks like mine must have been replaced somewhere down the line. It is oval while yours looks round...."
No, mine's oval too; must be the camera angle that might make it look round.
"The clam thru hull covers look interesting. I've seen them on the internet before and wondered if they would hold up over time. I'm guessing with your experience that they work!"
Only if you consider one season "time" and "experience," but it does seem to be working fine, and I expect it to last.
A word of caution with deck connectors: I had a very, very bad experience with the "Sea Dog" 4-pin mast wiring harness deck connector(s) I got from CD -- and even the one Sea Dog sent me directly after I called in the problem. Seems the screws to which you attach the wiring were shorting out within the connector and everyone I talked to pleaded ignorance. I spent some 20 hours over three days (and countless fuses!), and paid for overnight delivery for a second Sea Dog connector after ruining the first (only to have it arrive with exactly the same problem). My neighbor, an electrician, finally told me it will never work as designed.
I called Sea Dog and they couldn't believe it -- until they ran a bench test in their shop, found every part in stock had the same problem, and called me back. "Poor design" they termed it, called it potentially dangerous as the outer casing was "live," and sent me a third one free of charge, warning that it too would have the same flaw but maybe I could work around it next time! Meanwhile, I bought an Aqua-Signal 5-pin connector, wired it up, and it worked just like they're supposed to out of the package!
(See: http://tinyurl.com/34vdp)
BTW, CD credited me for the two bad Sea Dog connectors and the delivery cost.
Great pictures. My mast definitely does not have that base like yours. Perhaps yours does because of the internal halyard set-up? Make sure you run the PVC conduit if it isn't installed already before you replace the mast wiring harness.
I noticed you have a forward hatch -- Chip Ahoy doesn't and I want one! Was that a standard option in 1974 or was it added on later? I've got enough in the works for the upcoming season, so I guess I'll have to start my 2005 to-do list already ...
Chip Ford --
Marblehead, Mass.
1974 C22 #3282 - "Chip Ahoy"
http://cltg.org/chip_ahoy/
|
---Turk ---
Canfield, Ohio
Boat Name: Miss Kitty
Model/Year: 1974 C22
Hull No. 3520
Hailing Port: Mosquito Lake, N.E. Ohio |
02/16/2004 4:33 AM Pacific Time
Chip Ford wrote:
“I noticed you have a forward hatch -- Chip Ahoy doesn't and I want one! Was that a standard option in 1974 or was it added on later? I've got enough in the works for the upcoming season, so I guess I'll have to start my 2005 to-do list already ...”
The hatch was added by the previous owner. It has I believe 5/8 inch plex and can be walked on. A great addition by the previous owner Eric. In fact, I’m beginning to find out that I’ve really gotten quite a find in “Miss Kitty”. The previous owner added and improved many, many features on this boat. Every time I read something out on the internet or here in the forum, I both look at the boat and find that option installed, or contact Eric and he tells me “I already did that”! I’ll take a few pictures of the hatch for you. Eric did a great job when he installed it.
I drilled out the stainless screw holding the bottom plate on and off it came! I found an almost pristine “pot metal” looking insert that is bolted to the bottom plate. ( I’ll take pictures) I was looking to rivet this back into place when I assemble it, but may be able to tap it and use another stainless bolt through it. I was told by Eric that it is made from magnesium. Does not rust.
Inside the mast I found conduit already installed, but it is in two pieces with the split being at the center of the mast where the steaming light is. I just bought a length of steel cable to use as a fish and hope it will “jump” the gap as I feed it to the top. I’m going to elevate one end of the mast and feed the cable through. There are 2 duel wire (red –black) wires running up the mast that I need to get through also. I have the old teak steamer support center outside the mast and I hate to have to pull all the wire out and feed it back in again.
I just purchased one of the Cableclams at our local West marine and it was surprisingly “reasonably priced” considering some of their high prices. $17. I didn’t quite think it through and got the smallest one but need to return it for the next size up to accommodate a UHF (PL259) connector. The seal is quite hard and gets drilled to the size of the wire. Brass screws hold it to the bottom half that gets screwed to the deck. This appears to be the same one that CD sells and looks like a winner. I may replace my mast lighting through the deck connector with one of these also. Eric said he experienced a little problem with his 2 prong thu deck connector on there now. I’ve emailed the company to see if the seal materiel can be purchased to act as a plug when the boat is trailered and the wire is removed exposing the hole.
Turk out
|
---Turk ---
Canfield, Ohio
Boat Name: Miss Kitty
Model/Year: 1974 C22
Hull No. 3520
Hailing Port: Mosquito Lake, N.E. Ohio |
02/17/2004 12:38 PM Pacific Time
Chip
Here is a link to my boat pivtures. I just took alot of pictures of my hatch for you (last page)
http://www.pbase.com/turk/boat_1&page=1
I was able to tap the bottom mast plate (in pictures) and to string a steel cable through the conduit across a 2 foot gap in the center of the mast into the top of the mast and out. All I need to do now is mount the antenna, new windex universal mount, pull VHF antenna wire, drill a couple exit holes, add gromets, and bolt everything back together. Hmmmm guess I still got lots of work to do!
Turk |
Dick King
Melbourne, FL
Boat Name: Twilight Zone
Model/Year: Sport/2005
Hull No. 15546
Hailing Port: Melbourne, FL |
02/17/2004 2:19 PM Pacific Time
Turk - Great pictures of the mast base and plate. I hope you know that the mast is NOT a Catalina mast section. It is neither the old style oval shape or the new style "flat sided" shape. Somewhere in her history, she has been dismasted and the mast replaced with a non Catalina shape. Hence the non standard mast base plate. |
---Turk ---
Canfield, Ohio
Boat Name: Miss Kitty
Model/Year: 1974 C22
Hull No. 3520
Hailing Port: Mosquito Lake, N.E. Ohio |
02/17/2004 3:16 PM Pacific Time
Wow, I didn't know that. It must have the same dimensions as the original as the sails are cat 22 sails. The boom is also different than most cat 22 and has (don't know what it is called) internal pulleys and several adjusters that I haven't seen on most boats.
Well, it works and is now mine!!! It was well maintained by the previous owner. I will ask him if he knows about the mast.
turk
|
Chip Ford
Marblehead, MA
Boat Name: Chip Ahoy
Model/Year: 1974-Swing Keel
Hull No. CTY032820374
Hailing Port: Marblehead, Mass. |
02/18/2004 2:09 AM Pacific Time
Thanks for the photos of your forward hatch, Turk; it looks like exactly what I want!
That's been a shortcoming on my C-22 that I noted early on, and really noticed when we were stuck down in Plymouth for a weekend of torrential rain when everything below got just darned soggy (which quickly began turning to mildew until I installed a Nicro 2000 Day/Night solar ventilator immediately after arriving home). With no opening ports and no forward hatch, the only air comes through the companionway and whatever comes in through that 3" bow ventilation fitting.
Installing a foward hatch looks like a bit of a project, but not overhwhelming ("Am I really going to cut a big hole in the deck?!?" aside). The trick would seem to be getting the teak (?) base to conform to the deck's contour. I'll need to relocate my anchor, but in hindsight that wasn't the best location for it anyway (See link below). Looks like I just started my 2005 Season to-do projects list and the bottom isn't even wet yet in '04.
Last night I gave the go-ahead to my old buddy the sailmaker to get started on the self-furling headsail set-up and need to send him a 50% deposit ($600) so he can order the Furlex equipment, my keel is still being rebuilt/restored (see link to photos below) and that's going to cost, the bill for this season's mooring is sitting in front of me, I've already got a good month or two of work (and $1,500 of new upgrade hardware and equipment) piled up just waiting for the first relatively warm day, and the cost to install the keel and launch is on the horizon. The hatch must wait, but I've bookmarked your site.
Anchor chocks:
http://www.cltg.org/chip_ahoy/chip_ahoy_2.htm
Keel Restoration Project:
http://www.cltg.org/chip_ahoy/keel.htm
Chip Ford --
Marblehead, Mass.
1974 C22 #3282 - "Chip Ahoy"
http://cltg.org/chip_ahoy/
|
Boat Name:
Model/Year:
Hull No.
Hailing Port: |
05/10/2004 9:07 AM Pacific Time
Need help on stabilizing the tabernacle plate on my 77 c22 which has the old style oval mast and a SS base plate with two screws holding it to the cabin top. Wood is not dry rot and is hard and stable. What has everyone else done when these screws loosen? |
Dick King
Melbourne, FL
Boat Name: Twilight Zone
Model/Year: Sport/2005
Hull No. 15546
Hailing Port: Melbourne, FL |
05/10/2004 10:18 AM Pacific Time
Bob - One of the screws is a lag screw that screws into the top to the mast support post in the cabin. If it is not holding, it means that the hole in the post is stripped out. The proper fix is to remove the post, drill a larger hole in the top of the post and glue in a piece of dowel. Once the glue sets up, drill a pilot hole for the lag screw threads and put it all back together again using a good bedding compound under the mast step. (To ease the removal of the post after removing all the screws holding it in place, use a "bottle" jack and some pieces of 4x4 to jack up the cabin top VERY GENTLY just enough to slip out the post.)
The other screw is actually a thru bolt with the nut on the underside of the cabin top. To get to it, unscrew the screws holding up the trim ring at the top of the mast support post and slide the ring down. The nut is just forward of the mast support post. Hold the nut and remove the bolt. Again, rebed the mast step with a good bedding compound/adhesive (3M 4200). Let it setup over night and reinsert and tighten the machine and the lag screws. |
paul osborne
Lima NY
Boat Name: Emy Lyn II
Model/Year: 1984
Hull No.
Hailing Port: Rochester |
05/10/2004 11:12 AM Pacific Time
Bob, Froget about trying to screw into end grain wood, it does not work. fill the hole and drill new ones at the 4 cornners of the mast step and use bolts,nuts with washers to hold it to the cabin top. It does not move. |
|
|
|
