Scott
Portland, OR
Boat Name: Promiseland
Model/Year: C22 Swing Keel/1985
Hull No. 12982
Hailing Port: Tomahawk Bay, Portland OR |
 12/18/2006 10:01 PM Pacific Time
My C22 has an anchor light and steaming/deck light on the mast but none of them work. I checked the voltage at the connector and it's spotty as though there's a bad ground or connection. I'm planning on replacing the deck mast connector and re-wiring the mast with the Catalina Direct mast rewiring harness. Are there any tips or problems folks have run into while re-wiring a C22 mast? I just ordered the 2006 handbook, hopefully it has some good directions.
thanks! |
Robert Donehoo
Duluth Ga
Boat Name: Shady Deal
Model/Year: Catalina 22 1979
Hull No. 8940
Hailing Port: Lake Lanier Ga |
12/19/2006 8:02 AM Pacific Time
just a couple of humble suggestions learned from personel experience.
1. attach a follower line to the old wire before you pull it out. this will require one for the top and one for the steming/deck light.
2. check for screws that may snag and short/ground the wire and replace them with self tap or pop rivets.
3. put tie wraps 3 or 4 to a group un cut pointing in different directions every 2 feet around the wire to keep it from clanging at night.
4,soldier connections and paint with liquid tape to keep out corrosion. |
Scott
Portland, OR
Boat Name: Promiseland
Model/Year: C22 Swing Keel/1985
Hull No. 12982
Hailing Port: Tomahawk Bay, Portland OR |
12/19/2006 8:15 PM Pacific Time
Thanks for the advice! I would have never thought about the un cut ties to prevent noise in the mast, what a great idea. |
R. C. Luiken
Milford, DE
Boat Name: Ricochet
Model/Year: C-22 Swing Keel/1986
Hull No. 13560
Hailing Port: Milford, DE/St. Michaels, MD |
12/20/2006 8:00 AM Pacific Time
Scott, I put a PVC pipe inside my mast to carry the wires. My Halyards, jib and main, are inside the mast. The PVC prevents the halyards from tanglinw ith the wires. The CD Catalog has a discussion of how to put the pipe inside the mast.I have a "T" connector at the point where the staming/deck light exits the mast. It is cut off to allow the pipe to lay flush with the front edge of the mast. The pipe is pop riveted in place. I have a messenger line inside also. |
Bilbo
Youngstown, Ohio
Boat Name: Sea Dog
Model/Year: Catalina 22 1987
Hull No. 13971
Hailing Port: Andover, Ohio |
04/01/2007 3:10 AM Pacific Time
I just worked on my mast lights and got them going.
I was afraid that the wiring harness was bad but these things were found:
1) Connections seem to corrode easily. I cleaned and am trying silicone compound to slow down the corrosion. Any non-solid connection can be a problem. What I mean about that is any connection where a wire or bulb attaches to another point. All of the fixture screws and such.
2) The deck female connector was corroded. Cleaned.
3) The male deck connectors on the harness were corroded. Cleaned
4) The male deck connector has a set screw-in type of contact and the wires weren't stripped to the screws. I don't think that this provides a good contact.
5) The festoon bulbs where they are pinched between the two contacts were not connecting well in the Aquasignal 25 type fixtures. Cleaned
A good multitester or continuity tester is a plus. I worked from the lights down to the deck connector to find the problems. Once I knew that the light bulbs were working, I checked the fixture contacts, then I coul d easily check the wire continuity going to the lights at the base of the mast. Then the deck connectors.
There is a LED replacement for the dimpled Festoon. at about $50 it seems pricey but may be the last bulb I'd need up there and it may save the battery. Now that LEDS are coming out, I hope to replace them as soon as they get a bit cheaper.
I hope that this helps someone. |
