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James
Stamford, CT
Boat Name: "C" Student
Model/Year: 1987
Hull No.
Hailing Port: Stamford |
 03/21/2007 7:54 AM Pacific Time
Two questions for you guys that I'm hoping to get some input on.
1) The fiberglass on the sides of my 1987 Catalina 22 is looking pretty crappy. A good waxing usually cleans it up a little, but given the extra weeks of daylight this year, I was thinking of wetsanding the side, then throwing a coat or two of wax over it again to really shine it up. Will this help with the shine, and what are the steps I should take to get this going along smoothly. Also, what are some things I should look out for so I don't screw up the fiberglass.
2) I took off all the teak on my boat to sand it and re-stain it. There was some sort of apoxy (along with the screws) that held the teak on, and seemed to be some kind of sealant as well so water didn't get into the cabin. What would you recommend I use when putting the teak back on in terms of a sealant? |
Aaron M Benham
33a Loomis Hights
Boat Name: Tidely-Idley: The never ending project
Model/Year: 1978 C22
Hull No. 8070
Hailing Port: |
03/23/2007 12:17 PM Pacific Time
Before you resort to sanding I would suggest that you buy yourself an inexpensive orbital polisher, as few bonnets and some polish made for gelcoat. Give that a try first as even if you decide that you do need to sand, you will have to polish it in this way anyway if you want the gelcoat to shine like new. If the gentler polish takes too long, move up to an automotive polish like Dupont #7. If that takes forever and your gelcoat is really bad, only then would I resort to wet sanding. The goal is to remove as little gelcoat as possible while still getting the results that you want. Gelcoat is not that thick and once you go through it, the resulting scar is uglier than the faded gelcoat was. Also, this is a good time to get yourself a gelcoat repair kit and fix those dings and scratches before you attempt the gelcoat restoration.
As to rebedding the teak trim, I would use a polysulfate sealant such as boatlife for that purpose as you may need to remove it again sometime. DON'T use polyurethane (3M 6200 or the less tenacious 5200) to rebed wood trim. If and when you try to remove it again, you will have chunks of teak permanently welded to your boat.
Good luck. |
Paul McLaughlin
Walnut Creek, CA
Boat Name: Tiare
Model/Year: C22 Swing keel, 1982
Hull No. 10890
Hailing Port: SF Bay |
03/23/2007 12:37 PM Pacific Time
You may mean 3M 5200 and 4200 Marine Adhesive Sealants. I understand that 5200 is relatively permanent (I've never used it but I hear it is tough stuff). I've had great luck with 4200 bedding teak trim and metal fittings to fiberglass. I have not had a problem with it damaging the teak when removing.
Just goop some on, bed things down hand tight, let it cure for a day, then tighten it up ( it works best to do the job in this sequence, otherwise a lot of the sealing and bonding power is squished out if you tighten away before curing). |
James
Stamford, CT
Boat Name: "C" Student
Model/Year: 1987
Hull No.
Hailing Port: Stamford |
05/02/2007 10:11 AM Pacific Time
Okay, so the work is done. Don't have any pictures but it turned out beautiful.
I started with 1200 grit sandpaper and wetsanded the entire boat (hull, cockpit, deck) except for the non skid surfaces. Cleaned the boat, then finished up with 2000 grit sandpaper on all the same areas. Then, I picked up some 3m Perfect-it 3000 rubbing compound to clean out any dirt or sanding residue from the hull. This stuff is magic. Finally, I got some Scotchguard Liquid Wax and applied 3 coats. This stuff too is magic.
the boat has never looked so good, even when I bought it 3 seasons ago. I highly recommend this process if you have some scratches just beyond the ability of a normal rubbing compound...or even if you don't and want your hull to look like new. Can't wait to put "sea" student in the water. |
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