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Russ Hauser
Tavares, FL
Boat Name: Serenity Now!
Model/Year: 1982
Hull No. CTYH1337M82L
Hailing Port: Lake Harris |
 04/17/2007 3:10 PM Pacific Time
What size and length of lines are appropriate for the C-22? How many should I have on board? |
Bilbo
Youngstown, Ohio
Boat Name: Sea Dog
Model/Year: Catalina 22 1987
Hull No. 13971
Hailing Port: Andover, Ohio |
04/17/2007 8:05 PM Pacific Time
HI,
A good way to go would be to talk to other dockers and the owner of the docks to se what's necessary in your area.
West marine suggests 3/8" nylon but also suggests that you could go larger and you should protect from chafe and you should use line snubbers (black rubber shock absorbers) on each line.
My boat is docked with lines that may very well be 1/2" 3 strand twisted nylon. Two lines from the bow eye and two on the stern quarters but the stern ones are crossed. I think that the 4 lines are 15' long each but the length depends upon your dock's dimensions.
For chafing, I cut off some large diameter plastic tubing where the lines tie to the dock eyes.
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Mitch Kronowit
Mission Viejo, CA
Boat Name: Paulina
Model/Year: 1984 Catalina 22
Hull No. #12276
Hailing Port: Dana Point, CA |
05/29/2007 1:37 AM Pacific Time
I bought a bag of 3-strand nylon rope at Home Depot (3/8' x 100') for about $25. I made 2 breast lines 15' long, 2 spring lines 30' long, and one more breast line with the 10' left over. The working length of the lines are a little shorter since I spliced an 8-10" eye at the end of each line.
I find the 3/8" diameter the absolute smallest I would go. Next time, I'll try and find 7/16" or 1/2" rope if I can get the loop to slide underneath my deck cleats. |
daniel gallagher
lexington ky
Boat Name: windbreaker
Model/Year: 1977 cat 22
Hull No. ctyh6763m77a
Hailing Port: lexington ky |
02/29/2008 9:17 AM Pacific Time
I have never kept my 22 in a marina before, does anyone have list of lines needed for proper docking. We just use boat on weekends and want to make sure boat is secure............thanks |
R. C. Luiken
Milford, DE
Boat Name: Ricochet
Model/Year: C-22 Swing Keel/1986
Hull No. 13560
Hailing Port: Milford, DE/St. Michaels, MD |
03/10/2008 4:13 PM Pacific Time
You should use a minimum of 6 lines if you are in a slip.
1 each for port and starboard fore and aft.
1 forward spring line and 1 aft spring line.
The length of the lines are governed by the size of the slip.
If you are tied alongside a dock you need 4.
1 fore and aft and 1 fore and aft spring line.
A neat trick is to run some yarn through the lines at the point they enter the cleat when you have determined exactly what the best placement is. Then you mark them to simplify subsequent docking. Every time will be the same |
Scott
Portland, OR
Boat Name: Promiseland
Model/Year: C22 Swing Keel/1985
Hull No. 12982
Hailing Port: Tomahawk Bay, Portland OR |
03/20/2008 10:15 PM Pacific Time
Sorry about the length of this but a good docking makes my day, so...4 lines for docking along side a dock is correct, and a must if you're in a double slip. All docking lines should have a loop tied or spliced into one end. The looped ends attach to your boat. There should be cleats on both sides of your bow and both sides of your stern.
The bow line goes on the cleat at your bow on the same side of the boat as the dock. The non-looped end of the bow line goes to a dock cleat near the bow of your boat and should be secured with a wrap and a couple of half hitches, or whatever is common at your marina. This line should be at least a 1/2-inch woven or three stand. This should be a shorter line (West Marine's 1/2 inch docking lines come in a good length with a spliced loop). It's purpose is to keep your boat from moving too far away from the dock. The exact same description also applies to your stern line except it goes from the stern cleat of your boat to a dock cleat near your stern. These lines should be a length that when they are tied off will allow you to board the boat without having to do the splits when the boat is pushed as far from the dock as it will go.
Now, spring lines prevent your boat from moving forward and aft, this prevents the common sound of a bow slamming into a dock box at the front of the slip. Spring lines should be of smaller diameter, 3/8-inch is fine, and a good Sta Set braid is perfect, (Sta Set is a line that any marine line supplier will know and carry, Sta Set stretches, Sta Set X does not.) a little stretch is encouraged in spring lines.
The bow spring line goes from the same boat cleat as the bow line and is tied off on the dock at least mid-ships or better yet at the same dock cleat as the stern line. The aft spring line goes from the same boat cleat as the stern line and attaches to the dock cleat either mid ships or at the same dock cleat as the bow line. The length of the spring lines should allow the boat some movement forward and aft, but not so much to let the boat hit the front of the slip or protrude too far aft into the row. Also, keep your spring lines short enough that they cannot come into contact with the water, or you'll have a perfect "X" of slime on the side of your boat, which by the way is not the easiest thing to wash off.
Place at least 2 fenders on the side of the boat against the dock at mid ships at the two middle stanchions if you have stanchions. (By the way, when docking put the fenders out way before you get to the dock).
Also note that with some practice and more explanation than I can fit here, spring lines are very helpfull for using to "spring" your boat off the dock if the wind is pushing your boat into the dock while you're trying to depart, especailly if you're single-handing. I'm sure you could google spring lines and learn this, or buy the ASA's basic keelboat sailing text book. Or practice early in the morning when no one is watching. The trick is to undue one spring line, depending on your docking configuration, and put your motor in reverse, watch what happens. You will either be forced against the dock, or springed off of it. The hard part is getting the spring line undone in the nick of time. Again, buy the book before trying this and have some crew handy.
Also, when docking approach your slip at about 0.4 -0.6 knots (hopefully you have a knot meter, otherwise also practice this early in the morning, I have spent many early mornings at my boat) aim the bow at the aft end of the dock you moor alongside and when you fear the bow is going to hit wait three more seconds, then with your heart in your throat, turn hard away from the dock, you'll dirft in perfectly if you were going slow enough. I put my motor in neutral when I'm about two boat lengths from the dock and this drops me to about 0.5 knots when I turn in.
I prefer a slip that allows me to dock with the wind and against the river current (if you're in a river, I've never docked without current so if you don't have current consider coming in even slower than 0.4 to 0.6 knots) and I like to dock so that the wind blows my boat toward the side I dock on. Trying to dock when the wind is blowing you away from the side of the dock is more difficult, and without experience can push you into the boat next to you if you're double berthed. I suggest looking at what side of the dock, and what direction most of the sailboats at your marina are docked, that will probably be the easiest docking configuration for your marina.
Whew, I always go overboard on this forum, good thing I wear a life jacket at the computer. |
Bob Keim
Nashville
Boat Name: Pursuit
Model/Year: C22/1976
Hull No.
Hailing Port: Nashville |
03/21/2008 5:03 AM Pacific Time
I dry sail my boat. I have 25' long 1/4" dock lines. They've worked well for me. when the winds are expected to pickup I have plenty of line to double up at any point. |
Lynn Buchanan
Nevada City, CA
Boat Name: SAILYNN
Model/Year: SWING 1984
Hull No. 11994
Hailing Port: SCOTTS FLAT LAKE, CA |
03/22/2008 10:32 AM Pacific Time
Minimum length for at least one of your lines should be the length of the boat. This line would be tied to the bow and go back to the cockpit for handling by the crew or skipper when pulling up to a dock. All the other suggestions are wise except the one where someone bought some yellow poly line. Your boat weighs at least 2,500 lbs and strong force by surge or wind can easily overpower this type of line if the boat gets to moving in a slip. Since it easily chafes it is not a good idea to use for securing a boat. You will also want a line at least twice the length of the boat for being towed on the water. It is always best to use your own line when being towed as you will be sure it is a sturdy line.Just my two cents. |
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