Gerald Artman Jr.
MI
Boat Name: Gerald Artman Jr.
Model/Year: C22 1974
Hull No. AR291BTH
Hailing Port: Fenton, MI |
 07/17/2007 6:34 PM Pacific Time
I purchased a 74 C22 with trailer. It appears to be the factory model. After launching and retreival it seems like I cannot get the bow forward enough on the trailer. The bunks seem to fit the hull nicely and give good support. The front keel roller is barely at the point where the bow ends. Moving the winch arm forward releases it from its hold down fitting. Is there a technique of adjusting the bunkers to let the boat sit more forward so the bow can be tight to the forward arm? |
Jeff Struck
Fergus Falls, MN
Boat Name: Marionette
Model/Year: 1980
Hull No. CTYH9278M80B
Hailing Port: Pelican Lake, Otter Tail Co. Minn. |
11/25/2008 9:24 AM Pacific Time
I have a similar problem and my trailer is described further down on the topic list under "trailer Identification". Also, my trailer apparently has been with the boat since the beginning.
I had to raise the bunk by 1 1/2 when I recarpeted them and now the swing keel can sag down onto the roller without the whole boat sitting on it too. At this time I notice the boat sitting further back in the bunks and not staying against the bow roller... Maybe it never did. My next strategy is to move the bow winch post further forward to see if the boat will sit further forward in the bunks and not worry if the bow is against the roller. "let-er buck"! The weight is low.
I also bought some new light brackets from a mfg. in St. Coud Mn, name not handy, that has a very strong assembly with integral tie down piece. I called them to see if I could get a second pair of just the tie-down and not the light bracket so I could put that up front so a strap will cross the boat just in front of the cabin and behind the hatch. They liked the idea and sold me the pieces for $30 and added it to their inventory list. It works great with two straps: one across the cockpit in front of the winches and the other as mentioned above. I haven't tested it on a long ride yet, but have gone 30 miles w/o trouble.
Also, I was wondering if two bow eyes or U bolts could be put into the transome like most speed boats have. This would be a place for two transome straps to keep the boat from sliding backward on the trailer. I need the weight forward more to get more weight on the tongue for towing stability and this should help.
Jeff |
Mike Bracket
Clinton Twp, MI
Boat Name: Gunsmoke
Model/Year: 1979
Hull No. 9150
Hailing Port: Lake St Clair MI |
11/30/2008 1:12 PM Pacific Time
Jeff: I dont have bunks on my trailer so all the following is simply my opinion. I have been looking at new trailers and the problem you highlighted is a concern for me as well. I think it is caused when the boat is loaded on the trailer at the ramp. the stern of the boat is usually floating and settles down onto the bunks as the trailer is hauled up the ramp. The angle between what the boat sees in the water, tied to the winch stand and what the boat sees when it settles onto the trailer is what causes the boat to 'shift back' away from the winch stand/bow roller. Some trailers have a roller under the bow of the boat about 3-4" aft of the winch stand. The purpose of this roller is to lift the bow of the boat up as you load the boat on the trailer and then support the front of the boat as it is hauled out, so as it settles, the bow is held up. It is all about the angles between the load position and the level on the ground position. Another option is to raise the stern supports for the bunks 2-3". The result is essentially the same.
If you need to add weight to the tongue after you get the boat settled into the bow roller, try moving the axle aft in 2" segments. that works well also.
Good luck
Mike |
Jeff Struck
Fergus Falls, MN
Boat Name: Marionette
Model/Year: 1980
Hull No. CTYH9278M80B
Hailing Port: Pelican Lake, Otter Tail Co. Minn. |
01/15/2009 2:23 PM Pacific Time
Thank you, I observed the same thing. The trailer points down into the lake and the boat is level. I winch the boat up against the bow roller and when it pulls out of the water, the boat settles back onto the bunks and away from the winch post. I have to move the winch post all the way forward to give me about 2 more inches and then see how the boat sits.
Problems with this trailer are that the spring assembly is welded directly to the trailer frame and cannot be moved forward or aft. A galvanized angle-iron frame could be added to provide that option at some cost.
Also, front and rear bunk struts are non-adjustable. Only the center strut is adjustable.
I've seen suggestions like putting the spare tire and/or the motor on the winch post. This may be the least cost option.
Anyone else experience this as well? Any other techniques available?
Thanks
Jeff |
David Torrisi
Santa Clara, CA
Boat Name: Dumbo
Model/Year: 1975 C-22
Hull No. 4330
Hailing Port: Santa Clara |
01/15/2009 3:27 PM Pacific Time
Jeff,
You can add a 2x4 block under the aft bunk support to get those up higher. I've started only backing my trailer in until the forward tip of the bunk is just under water. The allows me to winch the boat up the rest of the way w/o too much stress on the eye, strap, etc. I get it w/i about an inch of the bow block. Two bumps down the road and she settles in nicely. I should mention that I also have added a bow roller to the trailer between the front of the bunks and the winch tower. That helps stiffen the trailer remarkably and also helps with the aforementioned winching operation. |
Joe McElroy
Snoqualmie, Washington
Boat Name: Teasel
Model/Year: 1979 Swing Keel
Hull No. 9014
Hailing Port: |
01/15/2009 3:32 PM Pacific Time
When we changed over to a very heavy outboard motor I decided to try some things to be able to keep the motor on the transom during trailering. I now have a fixed motor mount that is far more rigid than the stock one; it is also closer to the transom by several inches. The transom is now strengthened to take this extra load, making it much stiffer, which dramatically reduces vibration into the cabin area. This also stopped the rudder vibration that we used to have. I added a 2nd battery to the storage area in front of the V-berth foot well. This trims the boat for the extra motor weight. We used to keep the rudder in the cockpit during trailering; now it stays in the cabin.
The combination of these things has helped towing stability a lot and it is a real luxury to never again move that beast of a motor. In this area we spend less than ½ of our “sailing time” with an actual wind, so a smooth quiet motor is a must.
|
Joe McElroy
Snoqualmie, Washington
Boat Name: Teasel
Model/Year: 1979 Swing Keel
Hull No. 9014
Hailing Port: |
01/15/2009 3:42 PM Pacific Time
I should mention another change I made that helps get the boat forward. I added a set of rollers for the centerboard. I added a bent cross member at the rear of the trailer to carry the first roller, about 10 inches wide. The second roller is in the stock forward position. Between these two, the boat never has to support the keel so there is far less drag when winching the boat in. When we are approaching the ramp we lower the centerboard about one turn so the rollers can take the load. I am able to winch the boat up to bow roller with only the aft part of the bunks under water. This is a life saver on a shallow ramp and I never have to use the tongue extension. |
David Torrisi
Santa Clara, CA
Boat Name: Dumbo
Model/Year: 1975 C-22
Hull No. 4330
Hailing Port: Santa Clara |
01/15/2009 3:43 PM Pacific Time
EDIT: that should read: add a 2x4 block on top of the aft bunk support
David |
