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Catalina Direct Discussion Topics / Catalina 22 Discussion Area / Hull / Keel / Rudder / Tiller / Painting a catalina 22
 
 
Author Painting a catalina 22
william manwaring
bossier city, la

Boat Name:

Model/Year: catalina 22

Hull No.

Hailing Port: Shreveport, la
08/13/2007 8:33 PM Pacific Time

I am thinking about painting my 1979 catalina 22. my question is whether to use a interlux brightside paint (one part) or the interlux perfection paint (two part). Has anyone used these products? How was your outcome? Did you spray, if so what type of equipment do you recommend. If you rolled and tipped, how did that work out. Also, has any one used the interlux interdeck products, how well does it hold up. All the input is greatly appreciated, i don't want to get in over my head and not be able to go sailing because i have an unfinished project.
Mitch Kronowit
Mission Viejo, CA

Boat Name: Paulina

Model/Year: 1984 Catalina 22

Hull No. #12276

Hailing Port: Dana Point, CA
08/14/2007 10:29 AM Pacific Time

Can't give you any advice on painting the boat topsides, but please posts photos somewhere on the net so we can see the final product. Sounds exciting.
Jeff Hart
Hampton, VA

Boat Name: No Name Yet

Model/Year: C-22

Hull No.

Hailing Port: Hampton, VA
08/16/2007 8:36 PM Pacific Time

William,
The two-part will hold its gloss longer, but it is more expensive and generally "touchier" to apply. A one-part will do you fine. It can and is, often, sprayed, but a technique known as "rolling & tipping" was developed in order to protect workers from the nasty health effects of spraying the two-part linear polyurethanes. Basically, one person rolls on the paint with a foam roller & a second person comes along behind the first to tip over the paint to smooth it out. You move around the boat together applying the paint before it looses its wet edge. Look it up on the net. It is not hard to get a paint job that looks sprayed.
Jeff Zinselmeyer
White Rock, British Columbia

Boat Name: Second Wind

Model/Year: 1983 C-22

Hull No. 10016

Hailing Port: Blaine Wa
01/16/2008 9:33 PM Pacific Time

I just used Interlux Brightside (1 part) "white" on the top half of my rudder after i did some repair to it. It looks amazing!! I am so happy with it, in the spring i want to now do my hull. Because it was a small area i was painting i just used a foam brush to apply and it turned out so good! If i was doing the hull i would use a closed cell foam roller and a high quality brush to tip off after roller application. If you want to see pictures of my rudder, e-mail me at [email protected]
I think the Brightside is about 1/2 the price of the Perfection 2 part as well.
Also think how easy it is to "touch up" the Brightside, just open a can and touch up the nic or scratch and your good to go. I really like the product.
Al Gearing
Burleson, Texas

Boat Name: Torch of Freedom

Model/Year: C-22 '76

Hull No. 6448

Hailing Port: Arlington YC
01/17/2008 5:34 AM Pacific Time

I am not sure where to get it, but I think that US Paint's All-Grip is a superior paint to Interlux. It is expensive, it first came out for aircraft use, it was the only paint they could find that would stand up to Skydrol Hydraulic Fluid which is very corrosive. It comes in a brush catalysist or spray. They discribe a technique that I found easy to use for either brush or spray. You first put on a flash coat, you can see through it, then after 20-30 minutes you put on the second coat. They tell you if brushing to start each brush load away from the wet edge and draw it back into it. It works. I think the roller and tip idea sounds good too, I would combine them and tip back toward the wet edge.
Al Ge
R. C. Luiken
Milford, DE

Boat Name: Ricochet

Model/Year: C-22 Swing Keel/1986

Hull No. 13560

Hailing Port: Milford, DE/St. Michaels, MD
01/18/2008 8:59 AM Pacific Time

Spraying linear urethanes can be very dangerous. You need to use appropriate masks and filters. The atomized paint gets into the lungs and can be fatal. I know of a case where this happened in Cambridge MD. The fatality occurred, not to the person spraying, but to one on the boat next door at the boat yard. He inhaled the overspray.

This applies to Awlgrip, Imron and Interlux 2 parts.
Al Gearing
Burleson, Texas

Boat Name: Torch of Freedom

Model/Year: C-22/'76

Hull No. 6448

Hailing Port: Arlington YC
01/19/2008 5:47 AM Pacific Time

That sounds like someone didn't take some simple precautions. I have sprayed the deck with Awgrip in my shop that has only a 10' ceiling with just a good dust mask, without any harmful effects. Also, sprayed two boat bottoms with epoxy, but that was outside hanging in a rack. the worst that I find is the stuff drys so fast I ruin a lot of clothes with spills and stuff. I spray lacquer without a mask for most jobs, but I have an exhaust fan to take care of the worst of it. If nothing else go to the trouble of turning the boat around so you are always spraying down wind, best of course if it is just a gentle breeze. Mostly early mornings for outside work.
For what it's worth,
Al Ge
Greg Guenther
Belleville, IL

Boat Name: Magnificat

Model/Year: 1970

Hull No. 473

Hailing Port: Belleville, IL
01/20/2008 10:05 AM Pacific Time

Hello William,

I just painted my '70 model about 2 years ago. I picked up the Interlux paint at West Marine and took them home. Since my boat is stored dry and is only on the water when I am using it I decided not to add a bottom paint. When I read the label on the Interlux paint it specifically said that it was not a "bottom paint" and that it would bleed water. I went to an automotive supply place that specializes in paint and used a two-part epoxy and painted the whole boat. After slipping and falling on the decks several times, I got some Interlux, mixed in the traction beads and painted the flat parts of the deck, gunnls, seats and cabin roof. What a good time!

Bottom line (get it?) read the labels before you paint. The other problem I had with Interlux was that you painted, waited 12 hours, sanded painted, waited 12 hours, sanded.......well you get the picture. By using the epoxy, I was able to paint the primer (2 coats) in one evening and paint the finish (2 coats) the next and never touched a piece of sandpaper between coats.

Good luck.

Greg
Pat Lindsay
Huntsville, AL

Boat Name: Stargazer

Model/Year: 1983

Hull No. 11735

Hailing Port: Lake Guntersville, Al
03/11/2008 8:25 PM Pacific Time

While we're talking about painting...I recently read an article (on SailNet I think) on repainting the non-skid on deck. Seems there many approaches to this problem, some of which are labor intensive, some expensive, some both. What appeared the most attractive to me was painting the non-skid with Interlux Interdeck which has a fine aggregate in it which provides slip resistance (technically not non-skid). Another option is to use a topside paint with Interlux Intergrip added to it. I'm sure there are others, but these two do not require you to sand the existing non-skid all the way flat. Any ideas out there? Has anyone had experience with bringing the non-skid back to life without breaking the bank or the back?
Doug Allinger
Sandy, UT

Boat Name: Forbidden Love

Model/Year: 1982

Hull No. 10192

Hailing Port: Salt Lake City
03/12/2008 6:21 AM Pacific Time

I painted my Catalina 22 last year using Awlgrip's two-part polyester urethane topcoat. It was somewhat more expensive than the Brightside and much more challenging to apply. I'd used Brightside on a Hobie Cat several years ago and also on a 19' Searay. It's a nice finish, but wasn't as hard as I felt I needed on my C22, which takes a lot of traffic and general abuse.

I'm very pleased with the gloss and hardness of the finish. I would echo the importance of taking the safety considerations very seriously with any paint system, but especially with a polyurethane paint like Awlgrip. According to the technical information, you can brush, roll or spray Awlgrip. I am a lot more comfortable spraying because I feel like I have much more control over the paint (volume, direction and speed), so I can't attest to the other methods. If you do spray, make sure you invest in decent automotive spray gun with the right tips (about $150-200 online).

One great thing with the Awlgrip is that it dries practically immediately, which is advantageous for spraying in less than ideal conditions (like in your driveway). If you go this route, make sure you get the correct "reducer" (for the temperature you'll be painting in). (I made the mistake of thinking it wasn't going to get hot as fast as it did, so I had to paint early, early in the AM and in the evening, in between the dew).

Last note on Awlgrip is the fantastic technical support the company provides. Ted in technical support was extremely helpful to me and never let on if he was sick of my stupid questions.
Anthony Rizzo
Plano, TX

Boat Name:

Model/Year:

Hull No.

Hailing Port:
05/27/2008 10:22 PM Pacific Time

Hey Will,

This is Andy, your old roommate from LA Tech. if you get this, drop me a line: [email protected]

Hope all is going well.

Andy Rizzo
Jim Sherwood
Westerville, Ohio

Boat Name: Who Cares

Model/Year: 1972

Hull No. 2186

Hailing Port: Westerville, Ohio
05/28/2008 7:03 PM Pacific Time

I painted my bright red Catalina 22 three times over a 20-year period with good quality marine paint and a good quality brush and it looked very good each time. I would spend about an hour sanding and two hours painting and that was it. A quart of paint was usually enough and it cost about $14.00.
Bob Conway
Huber Heights, Ohio

Boat Name: Spindrift

Model/Year: C22/1979

Hull No. #8717

Hailing Port: Buck Creek, Ohio
05/29/2008 6:25 AM Pacific Time

Hello Jim,

Do you recall the brand of marine paint you used and where you purchased it?

Thanks,

Bob
Jim Sherwood
Westerville, Ohio

Boat Name: Who Cares

Model/Year: 1972

Hull No. 2186

Hailing Port: Westerville, Ohio
05/29/2008 7:30 AM Pacific Time

Bob,

The brand name was Petit (http://www.pettitpaint.com/default.asp) and I bought it at One Design Yachts in Westerville, Ohio. If you add a little brushing liquid, it can give you and smoother glossier finish with less noticible brush marks. There is some more discussion about this at: http://www.catsailor.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=141443&Main=140857

Jim
Bob Conway
Huber Heights, Ohio

Boat Name: Spindrift

Model/Year: C22/1979

Hull No. #8717

Hailing Port: Buck Creek, Ohio
05/29/2008 10:04 AM Pacific Time

Jim,

Thanks!

Bob
Jim Sherwood
Westerville, Ohio

Boat Name: Who Cares

Model/Year: 1972

Hull No. 2186

Hailing Port: Westerville, Ohio
05/29/2008 11:03 AM Pacific Time

Bob,

You're welcome.

Jim
Martin Wilson
Lummi Island, WA

Boat Name: lil' diva

Model/Year: Omega 14 / 1979's

Hull No. 1231

Hailing Port: Lummi Island, WA
03/21/2011 8:14 AM Pacific Time

My 1981 Catalina 25 Swing Keel hull (waterline to rub rail) is painted Indigo Blue and also has some sort of clear coat on top of the blue paint. Blue color is still fine, but there are areas on the port side (only) where the clear coat is coming off.

What do I do to fix these areas (mabe a foot in diameter in several spots) to bring the clear coat gloss back. What product should I use and how should I appy it?

Any advice is welcome.
Jack Evans
Wyndmoor, PA

Boat Name: Baywynd

Model/Year: Catalina 25 Swing Keel / 1981

Hull No.

Hailing Port: Rock Hall, MD
03/21/2011 8:14 AM Pacific Time

My 1981 Catalina 25 Swing Keel hull (waterline to rub rail) is painted Indigo Blue and also has some sort of clear coat on top of the blue paint. Blue color is still fine, but there are areas on the port side (only) where the clear coat is coming off.

What do I do to fix these areas (mabe a foot in diameter in several spots) to bring the clear coat gloss back. What product should I use and how should I appy it?

Any advice is welcome.
Ryan Graham
Douglasville, Ga.

Boat Name: Luana Cordelia

Model/Year: C22 1978

Hull No. 8587

Hailing Port: Douglasville, Ga (on the hard)
04/19/2012 10:56 AM Pacific Time

Your problem will be finding out what paint to use... Here is a trick that may help . get one of the top brands brush thinner. lightly soak a rag and place it on the hull at a edge where the clear is coming off for a min or so. Don't rub just hold it there. Then lightly stick your clean finger on the clear. If you see a finger print you may have a score in the material to use.
Next lightly sand the edges of the clear till it is smooth. I would use a 500 or greater and wet sand for this stage. No rough edge on the clear should remain. Also use a sanding block for this and try to stay out of the bace (color).
Clean a huge area of the boat around the problem with wipe solvent. The area should be much bigger than the area you will be painting.
Test your paint on a small cleaned hidden area maybe 1 in by 1 in to see if the paints react. A crinkle or little eyes indicate a no go. If all look good next step.
mask off your upper deck, water line, and any hardware. Then mix per instructions and do a light mist coat of clear on the base color, but do not overlap much into the sanding. Wait about 10 to 15 min at 75 and lay on a coat. Next I would wait an hour thin the mixture 10% and over spray or mist the whole thing overlaping the sanded area and lightly into the unpainted hull.
Then after a few days, I would wet sand with 2000 or more with the lightest touch possible. Or not at all. Here is the problem with this though. If you have Brightside or another paint that is not Alexseal blending is near impossible and will still look odd. Plus wet sanding these paints is not recommended by the manufacturers due to the break down of the uv protection that will float to the surface.
If you are picky like me, You may want to sand and repaint your hull.
 
 
Hull / Keel / Rudder / Tiller
Catalina Direct Discussion Topics / Catalina 22 Discussion Area / Hull / Keel / Rudder / Tiller / Painting a catalina 22