Dale Ouderkirk
Rome, New York
Boat Name: Summer Wind
Model/Year: 1984 C-22
Hull No. 12031
Hailing Port: Henderson , New York |
 11/18/2007 6:24 PM Pacific Time
I read an older post on this forum about torque values for the 5/16 " keel bolts on the C-22. I have heard values all the way from 12 lbs to not more than 30 lbs This is a very large range. Most of the charts that I have found on the net, say it should be no more that 12 foot lbs. What is the right answer? When I first bought the boat I broke one off removing it. I do not waht to go down that road again. So what is every one using? Thanks
Dale |
Ken Palmer
Franklin, TN.
Boat Name: "Last Penny"
Model/Year: 1981
Hull No. 10475
Hailing Port: PPYC |
11/18/2007 7:10 PM Pacific Time
Hi Dale,
I torqued mine to 20 foot lbs, not sure I personally would go any more than that. |
Al Gearing
Burleson, Texas
Boat Name: Torch of Freedom
Model/Year: C-22/'76
Hull No. 6448
Hailing Port: Arlington YC |
11/19/2007 6:44 AM Pacific Time
I have never used a torque wrench on keel bolts, first I have heard of a need. I make sure that the bolts will go in most of the way with my fingers. Then I finish with just the socket, no handle, so when I make the final tightening it is just the screw being seated and not excess binding due to miss alignment or dirt in the threads. Never had a problem. There was some miss alignment on 6448, so I had a hard/long fight to get that corrected, had to dig out then re-epoxy the nut for one bolt. |
Dale Ouderkirk
Rome, New York
Boat Name: Summer Wind
Model/Year: 1984 C-22
Hull No. 12031
Hailing Port: Henderson , New York |
11/19/2007 6:35 PM Pacific Time
Al,
What did you mean when you said you had to dig out and reapoxy one nut? Where was the epoxy ? Thanks
Dale |
Ken G. Brown
Boat Name:
Model/Year: '88 Swing Keel
Hull No. #14764
Hailing Port: Leduc, Alberta, Canada |
11/19/2007 11:18 PM Pacific Time
I would suggest taking a brand new bolt of a similar type, clamping it firmly in a vise, and testing to see how much it takes to twist off. I was very surprised how little it took when I did that. Might save you the big trouble of twisting one off in the keel hanger.
Ken G. Brown |
Al Gearing
Burleson, Texas
Boat Name: Torch of Freedom
Model/Year: C-22/'76
Hull No. 6448
Hailing Port: Arlington YC |
11/20/2007 8:20 AM Pacific Time
Dale, I cannot remember exactly but the nut, actually a threaded tube with a plate, was not square to the hull and I had to work hard to get it straightened out, and epoxyied back into place. I filled the epoxy so it would not run out so easily, but as it kicks off it becomes very fluid. I had to hold it in place at the last minute, with cloths and anything I could find laying around. Epoxying from under is a mess.
For what it's worth,
Al Ge |
Al Gearing
Burleson, Texas
Boat Name: Torch of Freedom
Model/Year: C-22/'76
Hull No. 6448
Hailing Port: Arlington YC |
11/20/2007 8:32 AM Pacific Time
Ken , SS is not a tough metal, it is not as strong as common cold rolled steel, so you are very correct it can be over done. It is hard to drill SS without a drill press because it will work harden, like bending a piece of metal back and forth the break it, if you can start a drill and get a curl of metal, and hold the pressure to keep that curl coming off, it drills easily. But with a hand drill it is almost impossible so the chips that come off become work hardened and the metal just under it, and will dull a drill, which was harder than the SS when you started.
So if you have to drill with a hand drill, get it into a position that you can push hard and continue, and run the drill slowly helps.
For wahat it's worth,
Al Ge |
