Stephen Moore
Galesburg, Illinois
Boat Name: Old Disco Queen
Model/Year: 1984 Catalina 25
Hull No. 3559
Hailing Port: Peoria, Illinois River |
 01/12/2008 6:05 PM Pacific Time
I am a new proud owner of a 1984 Catalina 25 (just purchased...not re-named yet nor do I know the proper hull # - boat under the tarp under the snow) by the barn)
I was hoping to be able to "strip" the bottom, and re-paint? Have read the previous entries and am a little confused about what I should do. I would rather not sand...with the fear that I will sand toooo much! It appears that the bottom has a "copper" looking paint on it (not re-done for many years). I hope I don't find those nasty "bubbles" eveyone is refering to under the paint.
I also have the need for a new rudder...oh my god...the price! Should you get the plastic ones that are advertised in CD or the old fashioned one?
I also am wondering if I need to "replace" any items which attaches the wire to the swing keel annually?
And by the way, does anyone know how many "cranks" it takes to lower the keel fully on a 25' ?
(Seems like there are lots of "gaps" in the owners manuels)
I also have a trailer that has a "break-away" system feature on the tongue. Traveling home with it was a big surprise....the tongue "pulled out" about 10" (from Where???) I had previously believed it was a regular solid tongue (like other trailers)...anyone ever heard of such a thing? When you make a quick "stop" the tongue slides in and out (makes be nervous!!!)
I am going to attend the Sail Only Show in Chicago in 3 weeks and hope to get lots of info then. Most of the boat places here in peoria are strickly motor boat, although lots and lots of catalina's are in the water...where do they meet? some of the owners have been more than snooty and stand-off-ish to use a nice term...hummm
Looking for great sailing on the Illinois River (previously had a 14.2 Catalina for 24 yrs...trying to the get the "lubber" out of me...witth this bigger boat.)
Stephen |
Joe McElroy
Snoqualmie, Washington
Boat Name: Teasel
Model/Year: 1979 Swing Keel
Hull No. 9014
Hailing Port: |
01/12/2008 9:41 PM Pacific Time
Stephen,
Your "breakaway" tongue is actually an extension that is only to be used while on the boat ramp and certainly not on the road. You should have a hole through the tongue for a large clevis pin that retains the tongue in the retracted position. You use the extension only when you need a better reach on a shallow ramp, to get the boat farther out in the water without drowning your tow vehicle. You are lucky that yours apparently has a stop to keep it from coming completely out of the trailer, not like mine that is completely removable. |
Joe McElroy
Snoqualmie, Washington
Boat Name: Teasel
Model/Year: 1979 Swing Keel
Hull No. 9014
Hailing Port: |
01/12/2008 9:46 PM Pacific Time
Stephen,
Re-reading your post, I wonder if you mean that the tongue pulls out 10 inches or 10 feet? If it is the smaller number, you may have an inertia brake that uses the movement of the tongue to apply the brakes, though I don't believe it should move near that far.
Joe |
Greg Guenther
Belleville, IL
Boat Name: Magnificat
Model/Year: 1970
Hull No. 473
Hailing Port: Belleville, IL |
01/13/2008 11:43 AM Pacific Time
Hello Steven,
Joe is right about the trailer tongue. If it has inertia brakes there would be a mechanism attached to the two parts of the tongue. I think it is an extendable tongue. Look for holes in the side or top and bottom that a pin will fit through either fully extended or retracted. It will probably be on the order of a 1/2 inch pin.
As for removing the bottom paint, it sounds like your boat has anti-fouling paint on the hull below the waterline. If you are going to leave the boat in a slip you need to replace the anti-fouling paint with fresh paint. Most of that type of paint is toxic and hazardous to breath. Your best bet if you are going to do it yourself is to get a sander with a bag attachment that collects the dust and to wear a dust respirator yourself. You only need to sand it lightly to smooth the roughness out of it and put some light roughness back in so that the new paint will stick. Most if not all bottom paint is applied with a roller due to the toxicity of the paint. You don't want that overspray in the air to settle wherever or to breathe that stuff in. If you don't want to tackle the job, a marina or boat shop would be able to do it for you.
Examine the hardware and the cable for the retractable keel carefully. If it looks good it probably is. The cable could be frayed and needs to be replaced. Look for signs of corrosion on the fittings. I would probably drop the keel off of the boat and examine the keel pin that it rotates on also. You really don't want to lose that keel.
Good luck.
Greg |
Stan Hullett
Littleton CO
Boat Name: Hanky Panky
Model/Year: 1979 C-25
Hull No.
Hailing Port: Chatfield State Park |
01/13/2008 12:37 PM Pacific Time
I stand by what I said, if it's copper colored I bet it VC-17, no need to sand, just clean it and recoat. This paint is accetone based Teflon with copper powder added at time of application, I will desolve the prior coats as it is applied and then become one, roll as little as possible, get it on and quit. It's a good racing paint if and when you get into that. I can get two season use here in fresh water.
Stan |
Stephen Moore
Galesburg, Illinois
Boat Name: Old Disco Queen
Model/Year: 1984 Catalina 25
Hull No. 3559
Hailing Port: Peoria, Illinois River |
02/23/2008 2:23 PM Pacific Time
Thanks for all the info...did anyone know how many "cranks" it takes to fully drop the swing keel?
I will check on that trailer for the clevis pin. The tongue only slides out about 10-12 " (not feet). |
Stephen Moore
Galesburg, Illinois
Boat Name: Old Disco Queen
Model/Year: 1984 Catalina 25
Hull No. 3559
Hailing Port: Peoria, Illinois River |
02/23/2008 2:23 PM Pacific Time
Thanks for all the info...did anyone know how many "cranks" it takes to fully drop the swing keel?
I will check on that trailer for the clevis pin. The tongue only slides out about 10-12 " (not feet). |
